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THE 



VALLEY OF ZEEMATT 

/ : 

( '- 

AND THE 

MATTERHORN 

A GUIDE 

BY 

EDWARD WHYMPER 

AUTHOR OF "A GUIDE TO CUAMOMIX AMD TUB RANGE OF MONT BLANC," 

"SCRAMBLES AMONGST THE ALPS," ETC. ETC.; HONORARY MEMBER OF THE SWISS AND 

ITALIAN ALPINE CLUBS, ETC. ETC. 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS & MAPS 



LONDON 
JOHN MUERAY, ALBEMARLE STREET 

GENEVA : GEORG & CO., 10 RUE CORRATERIE 
1897 



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, ,. j LiBRAkY 



Printed by R. & R. Clark, Limited, Edinburgh 



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INTRODUCTION. 



This little Guide to Zermatt is written upon the same lines as the 
Guide to Chamonix which was published by Mr. Murray last year. 
It treats more or less of what may be called the Zermatt district^ 
embracing the Cream of the Alps; but it is not easy to define the 
limits of the district, which includes the Saas Thai as well as the 
Nicolai Thai, and extends right and left into Switzerland, and south- 
wards into Italy. The prevailing idea has been to give greater 
prominence to the excursions which can be made in the basin of the 
Zermatt Valley (that is, the Nicolai Thai) than to those which may 
be made outside it. It is assumed that a visitor will desire to know 
something about the history of the place, and concerning people who 
have been associated with it, and so the topographical matter is 
preceded by a slight historical sketch. 

About fifty of the Illustrations have been engraved expressly for 
the work, and the remainder are chiefly drawn from my Scrambles 
amongst the Alps, I am indebted to the Italian Alpine Club for 
permission to reproduce the portrait of my old guide and comrade 
Jean-Antoine Carrel which is given on p. 88 ; to the Zermatt Railway 
Company for the basis of the Plan of Zermatt; and for assistance 
of various kinds to the Rev. L. S. Calvert, Mr. W. E. Davidson, 
Rev. J. Llewelyn Davies, Sir John Evans, Mr. H. A. Grueber, Mons. 
X. Inifeld, MM. Alexandre and Joseph Seller, Rev. Christopher Smyth, 
Canon J. G. Smyth, Rev. J. Sowerby, Rev. E. W. Stevenson, and 
Mr. H. Schiitz- Wilson, to all of whom I tender my sincere thanks. 

The following remarks may be of some service to those who visit 
the Zermatt district for the first time. 

Expenses. — More will be got for money by settling down at a 
few places than by constantly moving from one place to another. 
Pensionnaires are taken at nearly all the hotels mentioned in this 
volume. Low rates are quoted at the beginning and at the end of 
the season. 

Money. — Take some Napoleons (20-franc pieces), a small quantity 
of French silver for wayside expenses, and the rest in sovereigns and 
£5 Bank of England notes. The notes can be changed at GJeneva, 
Lausanne, or Zermatt. Sovereigns go everywhere, except at the very 
smallest places. English silver is not understood, and will not pass. 
Beware of small Italian silver coins, which are supposed to be with- 
drawn from circulation. 



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iv ZEBMATT AND THE MATTERHOBN, 

Clothing. — Woollen goods and flannels are most suitable. It 
answers better to have several changes of thin garments than to be 
provided with a few thick ones. Mountain-boots should be taken 
out, and got into use before starting. The nailing is best done on 
the spot. Knickerbockers. — The musquitoes of the Rhone Valley dis- 
play partiality for the calves of those who adopt this form of attire. 

Bope. — If excursions are contemplated on which it will be desir- 
able to use rope, it will be best to take rope out. There is none 
in the market equal to the Manilla rope which is specially manu- 
factured by Mr. John Buckingham, 194, 196 Shaftesbury Avenue, 
London, W.C., which ought to be identified (amongst other ways) by 
a red thread woven among the strands. It is to be regretted that 
there are several spurious imitations abroad, in which this red thread 
is fraudulently copied. Beware of them. 

Ice-axes can be obtained at Zermatt at the establishment of 
Melchior Anderegg, or at ChUtillon of Carrel (the maker). 

Soap. — There is a great opening for soap in Alpine regions, and at 
the present time it pays to carry a cake. 

Baggage. — The minimum of baggage sometimes means the maximum 
of comfort. Anyone who has no more than he himself can transport 
conveniently, can travel more quickly, pleasantly, and economically 
than those who exceed that limit. On the other hand, innkeepers 
look with suspicion upon travellers with little of no baggage, and 
are apt to thrust them into the very worst rooms. 

The most convenient method of sending luggage to Switzerland is 
per Messrs. Stockwell and Co., 15 King. Street, Cheapside, London, 
E.C., who are sole English Agents for the Stoiss Postal Service vid 
Calais and Bale. For Rates see Advertisement. 

The Swiss Post. — Travellers to Zermatt (or anywhere in Switzer- 
land) wni do well to procure the little book entitled Tarif Postal de 
poche pour la Suisse et V^tranger^ public par la Direction G6n6rale 
des Postes Suisses. Price 40 centimes. This gives much informa- 
tion as to Postal Rates for Letters, Parcels, etc. Luggage is 
forwarded by the Swiss Post at low rates. A package, for example, 
weighing not more than 44 lbs. (20 kilos.) and not exceeding £40 
(1000 francs) in value, can be sent for 1 fr. 80 cts. between any two 
Post Offices in Switzerland. 

Time. — In Switzerland, * Central Europe' time is kept, which is 
55 min. in advance of Paris time, and Paris time is 8 min. in ad- 
vance of Greenwich time. When crossing and re-crossing the frontier 
it is well to keep these facts in mind. At Geneva (Comavin Station), 
trains leaving for France start at Paris time, and those for Switzer- 
land depart at Central Europe time. 

Custom-houses. — In going to Zermatt vid Paris — Dijon — Pontarlier 
— Lausanne, baggage is examined at Vallorbes. Travellers from 
Zermatt into Italy (or from Italy to Zermatt) by the high snow 
passes are not usually troubled by douaniers. 



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INTRODUCTION, v 

In by-gone years the baggage of tourists was seldom taxed upon 
entry into Switzerland. Of late years duties have been levied upon 
little coils of Alpine rope and other trifles. Although such inflictions 
are annoying, my recommendation is to pay without murmuring ; and 
1. to take (and to preserve) a receipt for the amount paid ; 2. to 
obtain the name of the douanier; 3. to have the transaction wit- 
nessed, if possible ; 4. to make exact notes of the occurrence. 

Passports should be carried. Though a prolonged tour may be 
made in France, Switzerland, and Italy without finding any use for 
them, occasions sometimes arise when they are desirable or necessary, 
and it is best to be on the safe side. 

Maps. — The Maps and Plans given in this volume 'will be found 
suflicient for most purposes. Those who desire greater detail can 
turn to the Government Maps of Switzerland and Italy. 

1. The Swiss portions of the Zermatt district are included in Sheets xxii, 
xxiii of the Carte topogi'aphique de la Suisse (commonly called the Carte 
Dufour), scale yinJWff* engraved on copper. Price 2 francs each. • 

2. They are also contained in the following sheets of the Atlas topograph- 
ique de la, Suisse (commonly called the Siegfried Map), scale ^tj^utt* Sheet 
482, Sierre; 487, Vissoye ; 528, Evolena ; 531, Matterhorn ; 496, Visp ; 500, 
St. Niklaus; 533, Mischabel ; 535, Zermatt; 497, Brig; 501, Simplon ; 534, 
Saas ; 536, Monte Moro. Price 1 franc each. 

3. Nos. 528,^531, 533 and 535 are put together, and sold as one sheet, 
entitled EVOL^JNE— ZERMATT- MONT-ROSE. Price 2 francs. 

4. A very useful Map will be found in Sheet iii of the Carte GinSrale de la 
Suisse, scale aro^ooo ' 1^^^ embraces all between Greneva and the Simplon 
Pass, and from Thim to the Italian frontier. Price 2 francs. 

5. Those who cross from Zermatt or Saas into Italy may find it useful to 
have the following sheets of the Carta d'ltalia, scale y^^^. No. 29 (iv), 
Valtoumanche ; 29 (i), Monte Rosa ; 30 (iv), Bannio (this includes Macugnaga 
and the Val Anzasca). Price 50 centimes each. 

The above-mentioned Maps can be obtained of Messrs. Georg and 
Co., 10 Rue Corraterie, Geneva. 

Lang^iage. — German is the language for the Zermatt district. 
French is useful, although it is not understood by the majority of 
the peasants in the Nicolai Thai and in the Saas Thai. In most of 
the hotels at Zermatt English is spoken. In the Val Tournanche 
and Valpelline French is sufficient. Some of the younger guides in 
the Zermatt district speak English. 

Beligion. — The Canton Valais is the most Catholic Canton in the 
Swiss Confederation. At the Census of 1888, 100,925 persons were 
returned as Catholic, and only 865 as Protestant. Protestantism is 
tolerated. English-speaking people, when in the Zermatt district, do 
not always recognise the fact that they are in a Catholic country, 
and sometimes do things which may excite differences of opinion. 

niK)n engaging Guides. — The recommendations that I should make 
in regard to the choice of guides at Zermatt are just those which I 
should make in regard to guides at any other place. 1. Before en- 



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vi ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, 

gaging a guide, make enquiry as to his antecedents from those who 
know. 2. Avoid men notorious for accidents, and those who are 
addicted to drink. 3. For difficult or long excursions give preference 
to men of middle age rather than to the youngest or oldest. 

There is no Bureau des Guides at Zermatt, and enquiries have to 
be made to learn what men are available. During "the season," 
besides the Valaisan Guides whose names are given in the List in 
the Appendix, one often finds Oberlanders at Zermatt, or men from 
Macugnaga (Val Anzasca), from the Val Toumanche and other parts. 

Some guides carry on the reprehensible practice of soliciting em- 
ployment in the trains from Visp to Zermatt. Those who introdttce 
and recommend themselves are generally of an inferior class. 

I do not attempt to decide whether a traveller should employ 
guides. Some persons are competent to carry out by themselves all 
the excursions that are mentioned. A large number, however, are 
not equal to this. Inasmuch as I am unacquainted with the various 
capacities of my readers, I am unable to say whether they need not, 
or should employ guides. Everyone must decide that for himself.^ 

Mendicity. — Before the Zermatt Railway was constructed, mendi- 
city had become a nuisance between Visp — Zennatt. Since the 
opening of the Railway, the road has been clear of beggars, because 
it no longer pays to beg. Cripples of sorts, however, have in the 
last few years broken out at Zermatt, and even at the Riflfelalp. I 
am told that they do not belong to the Village or even to the Valley. 
If they are not patronized, they will no doubt disappear. If they 
are encouraged, they will multiply. 

The Society Suisse des Hdteliers published in 1896 a small book 
containing the following remarks, which shew the views of Swiss 
Hotelkeepers upon several matters of general interest. ^ 

Ordering Booms in advance. — It is said that '<A rather remark- 
able confusion of ideas prevails among the travelling public as to this 
frequently occurring question, which, in the height of the season espe- 
cially, causes numerous unpleasant discussions." 

"In a great measure this is owing to the advice contained in travellers' 
guide-books, advice, which, we are willing to admit, is given in good faith, 
and with the intention of guarding the interest both of traveller and of land- 
lord. This advice is to the effect, 'that rooms should be ordered in advance 
especially when one is due to arrive at a late hour.' But owing to the fact 
that in the respective notices in guide-books, neither the question of right nor 
the commercial aspect of such ordering of apartments has been in the least 
discussed, there has arisen among a great many travellers the one-sided opinion, 
that ordering beforehand will, to a certain extent, ensure to the guest a claim, 
a power of disposal, without binding him to any reciprocal obligation." 

1 It is presupposed that my readers are acquainted with the various technical terms 
which are employed. If they should not be, I refer them to Scrambles amongst the 
Alps. 

2 The book is i^ublished in English, French and German editions, and is entitled 
The Hotels of Svntzerland, Basle, 1896. Price 50 centimes. It gives a considerable 
amount of information,— and discusses a variety of topics,— from the reasonableness of 
wanting hot dishes at night to bringing Monkeys into Hotels. It is said that "Rooms 
are often considerably soiled and damaged by such uncouth inhabitants." 



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INTRODUCTION. vii 

Let us now examine the following considerations : 

1. Which traveller has the greater claim to accommodatioD, 

(a) the one who arrives early at the hotel, or (b) the one who by 
letter, by telegram, or only by telephone makes known his intention 
to put up there, and either arrives late at night or does not even 
arrive at all ; whereas the former by his timely presence appears to 
be the better customer. 

2. An agreement, a contract in which claims and counter-claims are stipu- 

lated, must be concluded by at least hco parties. 

A oTve-dded order from tiie traveller does not give him the slightest 
legal claim to consideration, for in such a case there is lacking: 
(a) a declaration on the part of the second party (the landlord) that 
he can and icill accept the order ; (b) the traveller's guarantee that 
he will fulfil the obligation entered into by giving the order. 

With the increase in the number of travellers there is also an 
increase in the number of those who believe they may hind the hotel- 
keeper by ordering apartments in advance, without being themselves in 
any toay bound by siich an order. 

Hence the efficiency of such orders is diminishing daily, and the 
landlord is all the less to be blamed if he first attends to the guests 
that have actually arrived, and refuses to comply with any orders from 
persons unknown to him, unless recommended by trustworthy parties. 

A prepaid reply seems, in a certain measure, to increase the prob- 
ability of having an order for rooms attended to ; it may, according 
to the more or less definite answer of the landlord, bring about, if 
not a legal, yet a moral obligation on his part. Still even then it 
cannot be said to be binding, as an effectual guarantee is wanting on 
the part of the traveller for the fulfilment of the obligation entered 
into, which alone can give the order the character of an fiigreement."^ 

Ordering rooms for arrivals early in the Morning. 

"If the room has been reserved for a guest overnight in consequence of his 
order, he should only be charged for it once; provided he occupies it only 
during the day, and places it, by early notice, at the disposal of the landlord 
for the same evening. 

"Should the latter be prevented from disposing of it for the ensuing night, 
the traveller must, especially during the season or when there is a great rush 
of visitors, be willing to pay for the room for two nights, even though he may 
not have occupied the room for fully 24 hours." 

Landlord's responsibility. Depositing Objects of Value. 

"The traveller will do well, in order to avoid losses and disagreeable law- 
suits, to follow the advice of guide-books and the request of landlords, to hand 
over all valuables to the landlord personally." 

Payment by Coupons, and preparation of Hotel-bills. 

"If payment is to be by coupons, notice to this effect must be given on 
arrival. The guest should not be surprised if such payments, especially at the 
last minute, and in the bustle of leaving, are rejected as insufl&cient. In this 
case also the traveller should mind the advice to ask for, and examine, his bill 
in proper time, and to provide the means for paying it in time also. 

1 To this may be added that in the height of the season, wi Suntzerland, the telegraph 
is much used, and one not unfrequently arrives be/ore the telegram. 



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viii ZEEMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. 

"Landlords, on the other hand, should always make out their accounts in 
good time, and not, as unfortunately happens too often, allow travellers to ask 
for them repeatedly and in vain. This makes them ill-tempered and dis- 
trustful." 

Some hotels at Zermatt are open throughout the year, and attempts 
are being made to establish * a winter season.' Casual tourists arrive 
in every month of the year, and occasional ascents of a few of the 
great peaks have been made even in December and January. But the 
Season may be said to begin in June and to end in September, 
though the weather is sometimes fit for the majority of the excursions 
that can be made as early as the middle of May and for a little 
while into October. Usually, tourists thin off at the beginning of 
October, and by the middle of the month only hahitiUs and stragglers 
are left. It is 'the end of the Season.' 

EDWARD WHYMPER. 

June, 1897. 




ERRATUM (in some copiks) 

Page 120, sixth and seventh lines from top, "Sir W. M. Conway" should read 
"Mr. Mich. Carteighe." 



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CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

ON THE EABLY HISTORY AND RISE OP ZERMATT. 

A Legend— The Bishop outwits Satan— Discovery op Roman Coins upon 
THE Theodul Pass— Earliest Mention op Visp and St. Nicholas— The 
Lords of the Valley op ViteoE- Earliest Mention op Zermatt— Treaty 
between the Men op Zermatt and those op Val Anzasca— Zermatt 
A Cause op Dissension— The De la Tour Family— Murder op the 

COMPTESSE DE VlfeOE AND HER SON — WaR IN THE VaLAIS— THE END 

OP Bishop Tavelli— New Masters at Zermatt— The Zermatters be- 
come Freeholders, and Repubucans soon afterwards — Description by 
BouRRiT— Zermatt annexed to the French Empire— The Valais joins 
the Swiss Confederation- De Saussure —Visit op the First English- 
man TO Zermatt— Growth in Popularity— The First Ascent op Monte 
Rosa— Alexandre Seiler i Pages 1-17 

CHAPTER IL 

UPON SOME ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN. 

Attempts by the Chasseurs op Val Tournanche (1858-9)— Messrs. Parker 
in 1860— Mr. Vaughan Hawkins in 1860— Second Attempt by Messrs. 
Parker in 1861— My First Night on the Matterhorn (1861)— Camp on 
THE Col du Lion— Winter Attempt by Mr. T. S. Kennedy in 1862— 
Renewed Attacks with Mr. R. J. S. Macdonald — A Soutary Scramble 
ON THE Matterhorn— A Night Alone — A Tumble— My Fifth and Sixth 
Attempts in 1862— Professor Tyndall reaches 'The Shoulder'— My 
Seventh Attempt (1863)— Abandonment op the South- West Ridge— My 
Eighth Attempt (1865)— Bamboozled and Humbugged— A Flank March 

19-56 

CHAPTER IIL 

THE FIRST ASCENT OP THE MATTERHORN. 

Charles Hudson— Camp on the East Face— Croz reports favourably— 
Ascent op the East Face— Cross to the Northern Side— Arrival at 
Summit— Discomfiture of the Italians— Astonishment at Breuil— 
Marvellous Panorama 57-62 



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X ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. 

CHAPTER IV. 

DESCENT OP THE MATTERHORN. 

Order of the Descent— A frightful Avalanche — Hadow slips— Death of 
Croz, Hadow, Hudson and Lord F. Douglas— Terror of the Taug- 
walders— An Apparition— An Infamous Proposition— Surprised by 
Night— Search for and Recovery of the Bodies— Official Examina- 
tion—Their LAST Resting-place Pages 63-71 

CHAPTER V. 

SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHORN. 

First Ascent on the Italian Side— Comparison of the Two Routes— Hut 
ON THE ^ Cravate' —IAb.. Craufurd Grove's Ascent— Construction op 
THE Hut on the East Face— Cabane on the Hornli Ridge— Altera- 
tion IN the Form of the Summit— Death of Joseph Brantschen— Dr. 
Moseley falls down the East Face— Ascents from the North-west 
BY Messrs. Mummery and Penhall— Abandonment and Death of Mr. 
BoRCKHARDT— Another Catastrophe on the East Face— Death of 
Jean-Antoine Carrel— Loss of Andreas Seiler and Joseph Biener 

72-91 

CHAPTER VL 

HOW TO GET TO ZERMATT. 

Route to take— Times, Distances and Fares— Pontarlier— At Vallorbes 
everyone descends— Lausanne and Ouchy— Gibbon at Lausanne— T^^ 
Lake— St. Maurice— The Rhone Valley— Martigny—Sion— Sierre— 
SousTE— Visp or VifeGE— All change here 92-100 



CHAPTER VIL 

UPON THE VALLEY OF ZERMATT (NICOLAI THAL). 

Visp— The Zermatt Railway and the Art System— Neue Brucke— Stalden 
— Torbel — Kalpbtran— St. Nicholas — Ascents from St. Nicholas — 
Passes from St. Nicholas— Birthplace of Thomas Platter— Herbriggen 
—Randa— Ascents of the Weisshorn, Dom, Taschhorn, etc.— Passes 
FROM Randa— Tasch— The Tasch Alp and Valley— Ascents of the 
Allalin, Alphubel, and Rimpfischhorn — Passes from the Tasch 
Valley— Tasch to Zermatt . 101-125 



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CONTENTS. xi 

CHAPTER VIII. 

UPON THE VILLAGE OP ZERMATT. 

Zermatt— Its Population— Authorities— Reparation op Paths— Communal 
Forests— Hotels— The Street— Shops— Manners and Customs— The 
Church— Inscriptions in Graveyard— English Church and Inscriptions 
IN its Graveyard— An Alpine Garden !— Zoological Gardens — Post 
Office— Temperatures— Glaciers— Earthquakes— Bridges— Guides and 
Mules— The Gornergrat Railway Pages 127-136 

CHAPTER IX. 

EXCURSIONS FROM ZERMATT. 

To the Riffelalp— Lac Noir (Schwarzsee) — Zmutt and Staffbl— Gorges 
OF THE €k)RNER— The Findelen Valley— Trift Gorge— Hohbalm—Tasch 
Alp and Valley.— Hbueten— To the Riffelhaus and Gornergrat- 
Gugel— The HOrnli Ridge and the Matterhorn Cabane— The Zmutt 
Glacier and Stockje— Ascent of the Gorner Glacier to the Riffel- 
HORN— The Fluh Alp and Upper Findelen Glacier— Trift Hotel and 
Tbiftkummen— TuFTERBN Alp TO Eggen— The Riffblhorn— A Round via 
Staffel, the Lac Noir, etc.— The Stockhorn Pass— Mettelhorn— Unter 
Gabelhorn— Unter and Ober Rothhorn— Wellenkuppe— Trifthorn— 
Ober Gabelhorn— Zinal Rothhorn (or Moming)— Dent d'H^rens- Dent 
Blanche— Passes from Zermatt— Theodulb Pass (Matterjoch)— Ascent 
of the Breithorn — Petit Mont Cbrvin— Breuil and the Val Tour- 
nanche— Guides of the Val Tournanche— Gouffres des Bussbrailles 
— Val Tournanche— Chatillon— Col de Tournanche— Tiefenmatten- 
joch— Col de Valpellinb— Col du Mont Brul6— Col de Collon— Col 
d'H^rens— Col de la Dent Blanche (Zinaljoch)— Col Durand— Arben- 
JOCH— Triftjoch— A Tragedy on the Trift— Moming Pass— How to Get 
to Zinal . 137-164 



CHAPTER X. 

EXCURSIONS FROM THE RIFFELALP AND RIFFELBERG HOTELS. 

Early Attempts to ascend Monte Rosa— The First Ascent of Monte Rosa 
-The HOchstb Spitze (D\}¥0\jbavtizb)— Cabane B^temps- Winter Ascent 
of Monte Rosa— The Nord End— The Lyskamm (Silberbast)— Death of 
Mr. Chester— Loss of Messrs. Lewis and Paterson— Another Snow- 
cornice Accident— Castor and Pollux (Zwillinge, or the Twins)— The 
Breithorn from the North— A Tour round the Breithorn— Cima di 
Jazzi— The Strahlhorn— Passes— The Adlerpass— Schwarzberg Weiss- 
thor— New Weissthor— Old Weissthor— Seslajoch— Lysjoch— Feukjoch 
— Zwillingspass— Schwarzthor 165-177 



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xii ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, 

CHAPTER XL 

EXCURSIONS FROM THE LAO NOIR HOTEL. 

The Lac Noir— Thb Furqo Glacier— The Theodule Pass— The Breuiljoch 
—The Furgo Grat— The Furgg Joch — Routes up the Matterhorn— 
The Northern or Zermatt Route— The Southern or Breuil Route— 
The Zmutt Route— Deaths of Baumann, Imseng, Mummery, Penhall, 
Petrus, etc Pages 178-183 

CHAPTER XII. 

ON THE VALLEY OP SAAS (SAAS THAL). 

Explanations— A Year of Avalanches— Stalden—Eisten— Huteqoen- 
Balen— Saas (im Grund)— Excursions from Saas—Almagell— Passes to 
Antrona and the Simplon Road— Mattmarksee and Mattmark Hotel 
—The Blauenstein— Monte Moro Pass— Macugnaga— The Mondelli 
Pass— Saas-F£e— Excursions from Saas-F^e— The Weissmies Hotel 
—Excursions from it— How to get Home .... 184-192 



APPENDIX. 

PAGE 

A. Tarif of Excursions from St. Nicholas 193 

B. Tarif of Excursions from Randa 193 

c. Tarif of Excursions from Saas . . . . . . . . 193 

D. Tarif of Excursions from Zermatt 195 

E. Mountains in the Basin of the Valley of Zermatt . . . 199 

F. Passes in the Basin of the Valley of Zermatt and its Environs 202 

G. List of Guides of Zermatt, Tasch, Randa, St. Nicholas, etc. . 205 

H. CouRTE Note sur la G6ologie du Matterhorn 207 

I. Conversion of Metres into English Feet 211 

J. Conversion of English Feet into Metres 212 



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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PAGE 

1. ViSP (VlfeGE) 1 

2. Coin of Decentius, with Christian Symbol 4 

3. Alexandre Seilbr I 15 

4. Hotel du Mont Rose, Zermatt 16 

5. The Mattkrhorn, from the Riffelberg 20 

6. The Col du Lion -24 

7. Portrait of Mr. T. S. Kennedy 27 

8. The Matterhorn, from the Summit of the Th^odule Pass . . 29 

9. The Great Tower, with the old and new Cabanes ... 39 

10. A Cannonade on the Matterhorn 42 

11. The Matterhorn, from Breuil 43 

12. The Matterhorn, shewing Tyndall's farthest .... 44 

13. Dip of Strata 49 

14. Portrait of Lord Francis Douglas 54 

15. Chapel at the Lac Noir, in 1865 55 

16. A Store-house 56 

17. Portrait of the Rev. Charles Hudson . . . . . . 58 

18. The Actual Summit of the Matterhorn in 1865 .... 63 

19. Portrait of Michel-Auguste Croz 65 

20. Rope broken on the Matterhorn 66 

21. Diagram op Fog-bow 67 

22. Diagram op the Matterhorn 69 

23. The Grave of Michel-Auguste Croz 71 

24. Portrait op J. B. Bich 74 

25. Portrait of Canon Carrel 75 

26. Portrait of J. -Joseph Maquignaz 78 

27. The Cabanb on the East Face of the Matterhorn ... 79 

28. The Hut on the Hornli Ridge 80 

29. The Summit op the Matterhorn in 1874 82 

30. Portrait of Jean-Antoine Carrel 88 

31. Carrel's Cross 90 

32. Paris to Pontarlier, Vallorbes, and Lausanne .... 93 

33. Lausanne to Visp and Zermatt 97 

34. Plan op Martiqny 98 

35. Plan op Visp 100 

36. Plan op the Nicolai Thal, Saas Thal, etc. ' 102 

37. The "SystJimb Abt" 103 



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xiv ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, 

PAGE 

38. Plan, Visp to Staldbn 105 

39. Nbub Brucke 106 

40. Staldbn 107 

41. Bridgb ovbr thb Muhlbbach 108 

42. Plan, Staxdbn to St. Nicholas 109 

43. St. Nicholas 110 

44. The Patron Saint (St. Nicholas) 113 

45. Plan, St. Nicholas to Randa. 116 

46. Hotel and Pension Wbisshorn, Randa 117 

47. Charnbl-housb ('bbinhaus') at Tasch 122 

48. Tasch 123 

49. Plan, Randa to Zermatt 124 

50. Plan op Zermatt 126 

51. The Grand Hotel Mont Cervin, Zermatt 129 

52. Zermatt Church 130 

53. The Graves op Hudson, Hadow, and Wilson .... 131 

54. The Matterhorn Bridge 133 

55. The Hotel Zermatt in 1895 135 

56. The Bupfet at the Railway-Station, Zermatt .... 136 

57. The Village of Zermatt, seen prom Haueten .... 138 

58. Gorge op the Gorner 141 

59. The Rifpelhaus (The Old Riffel Hotel) . . . . .143 

60. The Breithorn, from the North 144 

61. On the Top of the Col Th^odulb (Matterjoch) .... 155 

62. The Hotel des Jumeaux, Brbuil 156 

63. The Village op Val Tournanchb I57 



64. Near Antey . 



158 



65. The Village op Biona I59 

66. The Matterhorn, prom the Top op the Col de Valpelline . 160 

67. Monument to T. W. Hinchclipp 1^5 

68. The Rippelalp Hotel \ Igg 

69. Monte Rosa, from the Gornergrat 1^9 

70. The Cabane BiStemps .171 

71. The Lac Noir Hotel Ug 

72. The Matterhorn from Stockje, shewing the Routes of Messrs. 

Mummery and Penhall * Igo 

73. Plan op the Environs op Saas ....;.! I86 

74. The Blauenstein, Valley op Saas, and Mattmark Hotel . '. 189 

75. The Weissmies Hotel . 191 

76. An Old Public Servant ' 204 

77. Geological Section of the Matterhorn, by Signor F. Giordano 208 

78. View prom the Gornergrat, looking South . . . , At the end 

79. Map op the Matterhorn and its Glaciers .... do 

80. Map op the Valley op Zermatt • . . . . . do 



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ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN 



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visp (vi^ge). 



CHAPTER I. 

ON THE EARLY HISTORY AND RISE OF ZERMATT. 

A LEGEND— THE BISHOP OUTWITS SATAN — DISCOVERY OF ROMAN COINS 
UPON THE THEODUL PASS — EARLIEST MENTION OF VISP AND ST. 
NICHOLAS — THE LORDS OF THE VALLEY OF VIEGE — EARLIEST 
MENTION OF ZERMATT — TREATY BETWEEN THE MEN OF ZERMATT 
AND THOSE OF VAL ANZASCA — ZERMATT A CAUSE OF DISSENSION — 
THE DE LA TOUR FAMILY — MURDER OF THE COMPTESSE DE VIEGE 
AND HER SON — WAR IN THE VALAIS — THE END OF BISHOP TAVELLI 
— NEW MASTERS AT ZERMATT — THE ZERMATTERS BECOME FREE- 
HOLDERS, AND REPUBLICANS SOON AFTERWARDS— DESCRIPTION BY 
BOURRIT — ZERMATT ANNEXED TO THE FRENCH EMPIRE — THE 
VALAIS JOINS THE SWISS CONFEDERATION — DE SAUSSURE — VISIT 
OF THE FIRST ENGLISHMAN TO ZERMATT — GROWTH IN POPULARITY 
— THE FIRST ASCENT OF MONTE ROSA — ALEXANDRE SEILER I. 

The Village of Zermatt (formerly called Prato Bomo or Pratoborno, 
Pra Bomo, Pratoburnoz, Praborgne or Praborny) lies at the southern 
end of a valley which is one of the lateral branches of the great 
Valley of the Rhone. It is an older place than one would suspect 
from its appearance. From documentary evidence which will be 
referred to presently, it is apparent that the valley in which it is 
situated was peopled six to seven centuries ago. It was known in 
much earlier times. There is a tradition current in the Valais to 
the effect that the pass called the Col Theodul (Theodule) is named 
after the first Bishop of Sion,^ and that he crossed it under remarkable 
circumstances. 

" The Pope of this time — it was in the fourth century — had 

1 St. Theodule is said to have been Bishop of Sion from 381-391 a.d. 
B 



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2 ZEEMATT AND THE MATTEEHORN. chap. i. 

presented a very fine bell to the saintly prelate of the Valley of the 
Rhone, recently converted to Christianity. But what a task, at the 
beginning of the moyen dge, to transport such a mass of brass from 
the banks of the Tiber to the bosom of the Alps ! Grateful as the 
holy Bishop was to the sovereign Pontiff for this act of generosity, 
he scarcely dared cherish the hope of seeing the faithful drawn to 
church by the sonorous tones of the papal bell, for the expense of 
transport was out of all proportion to the value of the gift. 

What could be done? 

The Bishop might have reflected a long time without finding a 
solution of the problem, if Satan, ever on the watch to pick up a 
soul, hadn't offered to transport the bell on his back, from Rome to 
Sion, in a single night ; — on one condition, namely, that if he arrived 
within the walls of the Valaisan capital before cock-crow, the soul 
of St. Th6odule should be his for ever. 

The Bishop closetl wdth the offer, and, the same evening, Satan 
set out with the heavy bell and the Bishop clinging to it. The only 
souvenir of this wonderful journey is that the Col du Th^odule, by 
which the Valais was entered, took the name of the holy man from 
this period. 

The Devil reached the Valley of the Rhone and the city" [Sion] 
"long before dawn, and, joyous at having bagged the soul of a 
bishop, had already taken a bound to clear the walls, when the 
Saint cried out from the bell — 

Coq, chante I 

Que tu chantes ! 

Ou que jamais plus tu ne chantes ! 

and immediately a piercing concert rent the air — all the cocks of 
Sion awoke at the voice of the worthy prelate, and it is from this 
moment that they began to crow so early in the morning. 

At this noise, the demon let fall the bell (which buried itself 
several feet in the ground), and vanished without a word to express 
his disgust." ^ 

M. Alfred Cdrdsole, pasteur d Vevey, gives another version of the 
same legend. 

"It is known," he soys, "that Th€odule, the first bishop of Sion and 
patron of the Valais, was a saint to whom popular tradition attributed 
remarkable influence, even over demons. One day at Sion, he learnt 
suddenly that the Pope, at Rome, was in great danger, and that it was his 
duty to warn him, to save his life. Troubled in spirit, and not knowing how 
to send a speedy message to the Holy Father, he opened his window and 
saw three devils dancing merrilv on a roof. The saintly bishop beckoned to 
them to come near, and asked which was the liveliest. 'I,' answered one, 
'I am as swift as the wind.' 'I,' said another, *I fly like a bullet* \comme 
une halle de fusil].'^ 'This couple,' said the third, * are idle talkers, I am as 
([uick as the thought of a woman.' 'Well,' said Th^odule, *I treat with 
i/oii; and I declare that I am yours, if, before the sound of cock-crow, you 
take me to Rome and back again.' The bargain was concluded. Satan 

1 Quoted from Les VeilUes des Mayens by L. Oourthion, Geneva (no date). 
2 Whence it appears that fire-arms were known m the fourth century ! 



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CHAP. I. A 'FIND' ON THE THEODUL. 3 

selected a fine black cock, and set it as a sentinel, against his return, on the 
wall around the town. The bishop put a white cock on the roof of his 
chateau, and told it not to go to sleep until he came back. The journey to 
Rome was as quick as lightning. The Holy Father expressed his gratitude to 
Th^odule by presenting him with a bell for his church, and the Devil under- 
took to carry the gift to the Cathedral of Sion. Before two o'clock in the 
morning, the bishop with his bell and its porter were back again. Satan 
took a short cut, and scaled the Alps at a bound by the pass between the 
Cervini and Breithorn. The episcopal cock, wide awake on the roof, heard a 
great row, and crowed lustily as he saw his master flying through the air, 
and the black cock did the same. The Devil, on arriving at Sion, furious at 
finding he had lost his bet, hurled the bell with such force to the ground 
that it was buried nine arms-lengths in the soil." 

From these accounts it seems that St. Th^odule was acquainted 
with the Devil, and to have been even more astute than the Prinee 
of Darkness. The Diabolical One appears to have been badly treated 
upon this occasion ; for, according to both the relations, he carried 
out a difficult undertaking very successfully, and got nothing for his 
trouble, — which must have added to the many * sorrows of Satan.' 

There is a strong presumption, approaching certainty, that the 
Theodul Pass was traversed long before the fourth century. 2 At 
different times, many Roman coins have been discovered upon it, 
even upon its summit (10,890 feet). In the collection which has 
been formed by Mons. Joseph Seiler^ of Brieg, the dates of the 
lioman coins which have been found upon the Theodul Pass range 
from about B.C. 200 to 400 A.D. Amongst others, the collection 
embraces examples of 

Nerva. Victorinus. 

Faustina I. Claudius II. 

Marcus Aurelius. Diocletian us. 

Faustina II. Constantinus I. 

Sept. Severus. Valens. 

Maximinus I. Valentinian II. 

G ALLIEN us. ThEODOSIUS. 

In some instances these coins may have been simply lost 01 route. 
In others, it is very likely that they were deposited intentionally ; 
but, whichever supposition is adopted, one is led to conclude that 
the pass was traversed at a very early date. 

One of the most curious * finds' of Roman coins that has occurred 

1 Sometimes called Col du Mont Oervin, or Matterjoch. Upon the current Govern- 
ment Maps of Switzerland it is termed Matterjoch or Theodulpass. 

2 The neighbouring pass of the Simplon was in regular use in the third century, if 
not earlier. *' Une colonne milliare ^ng^e (au III si6cle) sous les c6sars Volusianus et 
Gallus d6couverte k Sion porte le Leuga XVII, distance exacte de cette ville au point 
culminant du Simplon." "Les gazettes pidmontaises ont parl6 de la d6couverte 
recente d'une autre colonne milliare dans la valine d'Ossola dont I'inscription indique- 
rait que la route du Simplon fut ouverte dans les demi^res ann6es du deuxi^me si^ele." 
—Developpeinent de Vind^pendance du Haut-Vallais et conqu&te du Bm-Vallais, par 
M. Fr^. de Gingins-la-Sarraz, 8vo, Lausanne, 1844, p. 72. 

3 Mons. Joseph Seiler very kindly favoured me by transmitting his collection to 
London for examination. I am much indebted to Sir John Evans for the determina- 
tions. There were two coins of Gallienus and two of Diocletian, but only single 
examples of all the others. 



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ZEBMATT AND THE MATTEBHOBN. 



CHAP. I. 



upon the Theodul Pass happened in 1895, close to the summit. On 
August 24 of that year, a girl employed in the kitchen of the inn 
went out to fetch some water ; and, about fifty metres down, upon 
the Italian side, sjiied two coins sticking out from underneath a thin, 
flat stone, which had a large, square stone on the top of it. She 
lifted off the two stones and found fifty-four coins underneath the 
lower one, all together in a clump, and they had apparently been 
enveloped in a bag, which had rotted. The flat stone had been used 
to conceal them, and the square, heavy one to keep the other in its 
place, and they had possibly remained in this position for centuries. 
Sir John Evans has identified in this collection three coins of AuR- 
KLIANUS, A.D. 270-275, eight of Probus, a.d. 276-282, nineteen of 
CoNSTANTius II, A.D. 335-361, nine of Constantius Gallus, a.d. 
351-354, one of Magnentius, a.d. 350-353, and two of Decentius, 
A.D. 351-353. One of these latter is given below. ^ 




COIN OF DECENTIUS (a.D. 351-353), WITH CHRISTIAN SYMBOL. 

Nothing is known about the Valley of Zermatt during these remote 
times, and one has to come down to the beginning of the 13th century 
for the first documentary references to it. The earliest is given in 
the great work by the Abbe Gremaud.2 It is a declaration, dated 
1218, that Guillaume, chevalier^ of Vibge (Vespia) gave to the Cur4 
of that place his rights over tithes at Lalden (Laudona), a small 
village in the Valley of the Rhone, a little higher up than Vi^ge. 
This is followed in Gremaud's work by a deed [No. 274], dated 1218, 
which states that one Conradus sold tithes to the same Curi; and 
that document is witnessed, amongst others, by Henselmus, major of 

1 The place where this * find ' was mode is 160 to 170 feet from the inn at the summit, 
and 50 to 60 feet below it, and is away from the track usually followed when crossing 
the pass. The girl's duties led her in that direction. She went to fetch water, which 
is collected there from the dribbles of snow-water running off the rocks ; and she made 
her discovery through the rocks (in August, 1805) being unusually free from snow. 
Eleven of the coins were sold to passers-by and others, at fifty francs apiece and down- 
wards, before I had an opportunity to examine the collection. 

2 Documents relatifs a L'Higtoire du VaUais^ recueillis et publics par I'Abb^ J. 
Gremaud, 7 vols., 8vo, Lausanne, 1875-94. The first five volumes of this work were 
brought out at the expense of the Soci6t6 d'histoire de la Suisse romande. The publi- 
cation was then suspended for nine years from want of funds, and it has been con- 
tinued by means of subsidies from the Confederation and the Valaisan Government. 
The seven volumes extend to more than 4300 pages, and include 2817 documents (from 
the earliest times down to a.d. 1431), which embrace Wills, Treaties and Deeds, largely 
intermingled with records of disputes, threats, and other impleasant matters. 



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CHAP. I. THE LORDS OF VISP. 5 

Chouson (St. Nicholas).! The majors of these times were hereditary 
officials, who exercised jurisdiction in their districts ; received com- 
plaints, imposed fines, and enjoyed various privileges ; and, as majories 
were confined to the larger places, this shews that, even at the begin- 
ning of the 13th century, the Village of St. Nicholas was accounted 
of some importance. 

In the middle of the 13th century the property in the Valley of 
St. Nicholas, or a large part of it, belonged to the Comtes de Bian- 
drate. According to the Baron Frederic de Gingins-la-Sarraz, who 
wrote a Memoir 2 upon the family, the Biandrates^ were, from the 
11th century, amongst the most powerful barons in Piedmont. He 
says that they took their name from a small but very old town in 
the Province of Novara, and mentions three different branches of the 
family, one of them being the Comtes de Biandrate of the Valais. 
It is with this branch we are alone concerned. 

Grodefroi III, Count of Biandrate, seigneur of the Val Sesia, 
married Aldise daughter of Pierre de Castello, who was seigneur of 
neighbouring valleys. This latter bestowed upon his son-in-law his 
possessions in the Val Anzasca, by a deed dated June 8, 1250 ; and 
by his marriage the Count also acquired property in the Valais, 
which had come to his wife by the maternal side. Her mother is 
said to have belonged to the house of the seigneurs de Vi^ge, which 
was rich and powerful in the 13th century. "The domains of these 
lords extended over the Valley of Vi^ge " (Nicolai Thai or Valley of 
St. Nicholas), "which ends at Monte Rosa"; and, in the Valley of 
the Rhone, up to the sources of that river.* The property gained by 
marriage appears to have been acquired before 1250, for in the deed 
of that date the Comte de Biandrate reserves to himself right to 
transfer a portion of his Valaisan serfs to the Italian valleys; and, 
according to Gingins-la-Sarraz, this was actually done at a later date.^ 
The same author says that upon the death of two uncles, in about 
1258, the ancestral domains devolved upon the Countess Aldise. 

The Count Grodefroi III died in or about 1270, leaving three sons 
— Guillaume, Jocelin, and Pierre, the latter of whom died about 
two years after his father. Guillaume had the property in Piedmont 
as his share of the family possessions ; and Jocelin took that in 
the Valais, with the exception of the Chateau of Vi^ge and its 
cUpendances, which were reserved to the mother for life. The 
domains of the two brothers were subsequently augmented by a gift 
from their grandfather, Pierre de Castello, who made over to them 
all that belonged to him on the Simplon between Crevola (near 
Domo d'Ossola) and Brigue. Jocelin also appears to have come into 

1 In the Gremaud documents, the following variations in spelling can be found. 
Chauson, Schosun, Schauson, Schouson, and Zauxon. 

2 Documents pour servir a Vhistoire des Comtes de Biandrate recueillis dans les 
Archives du Vallais, et pr6c6d6s d'une notice par le Baron Fr6d6ric de Gingins-la- 
Sarraz, 4to, Turin, 1847. 

8 Blandratae or Biandrate, in Latin ; Biandrate or Biandra, in Italian ; and Blandril 
in the dialect of the Upper Valais. * Gingins-la-Sarraz, p. 21. 

5 The aim of this transplantation (which it is said was expressed in the deed) was to 
put an end to ceaseless quarrels between the Valaisans and Piedmontese about pasturages. 



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6 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. i. 

possession of some of the Novara property which had passed to his 
younger brother ; to have added to his wealth by marriage ; and 
ultimately, when he "inherited the estates of his mother, he found 
himself one of the richest seigneurs in the Upper Valais." 

It does not seem, however, that the Biandrates had absolute 
dominion in the Nicolai Thai, for there is a document in existence 
[Gremaud, No. 737] dated Rarogne, May 12, 1268, in which Rudolph 
of Rarogne makes over his rights and possessions in the parish and 
valley of St. Nicholas to his wife, daughter of Girold de la Tour ; 
and there is evidence which leads to the same conclusion in a deed 
printed by Ruden in his FamUien-Statistik} which runs thus : — 

"All believers in Christ are hereby informed that I Walter de Ried with 
the pious consent of my son Peter, and of my daughters Salome and Hemma 
(my other children were under age), and of Johannes de Ried guardian of the 
said children, have sold and devised for twelve pounds, which he has paid, to 
Walter son of Emke and his heirs, my meadow in Finellen^ and the house 
which is built upon it, with the cellarage, and my share in the ekkun,^ with 
the water and with everything else that may pertain to the said property. 
I have caused a deed to be drawn and duly signed by witnesses, who are 
Mattha de Stadel, Jacobus in spisce, Thomas de Wiestin, and Walter priest 
of Pratobomo,^ who completed this deed at the place of Normandus, precentor 
and chancellor sedunensis,(^ in which place I Peter sworn chaplain have written 
it. He who shall dare to oppose this deed let the curse of God be upon him 
and pay to the King sixty pounds and a gold obolus. Done at Pratobomo 
A.D. 1280, on the 27th of the wine-month. ^ 

Ruden (who was Cur^ of Zermatt from 1845 to 1865) says that 
this deed is preserved in the parish archives. It shews that there 
was a priest at Zennatt in 1280, and doubtless there was a church 
there at that time, inasmuch as the Normandus (Precentor of Sion) 
who is mentioned in it left by his will, dated 1285, a legacy to the 
Church of Pra Bomo [Gremaud, No. 1153]. The property sold by 
Walter of Ried was at Findelen, which is at the present time the 
most elevated and the most remote of the hamlets round about the 
main village of Zermatt. The more distant hamlets would naturally 
be the last to be peopled ; and, as Findelen clearly was in existence 
in 1280, it may fairly be presumed that Zermatt itself was an 
established place at some much earlier date. 

In 1291, Jocelin, compte de Biandrate, and his nephew Jean (son 
of his brother William), with the men of Saas, St. Nicholas, and 
Zermatt on the one part, made a treaty of peace with the men of 
the Val Anzasca on the other part [Gremaud, No. 1021], and this 
is evidence that the Biandrates were lords in those districts, and 
that there were communications between the Valaisan and the 
Italian valleys in those remote times. But this family would seem 

1 Familien-Statistik der loblichen Pfarrei von Zermatt, mit beilagen. Gesamnielt und 
geordnet von Joseph Ruden, 8vo, Ingenbohl, 1869. The original deed is in Latin. A 
German translation is appended. 

2 Findelen. 3 There is an *alp' called Eggen close to the village of Findelen. 
4 The old name of Zermatt. 6 Of the cathedral of Sion. 

« The original reads "Actum apud Pratobomum anno Domini m.cc.lxxx.v. Kal. 
Octob. RudoTpho regnante, Petro episcopante." The former was Rudolph of Habsburg, 
and the latter was Pierre d'Oron, Bishop of Sion from 1274 to 1287. 



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CHAP. I. EXCOMMUNICATED. 7 

to have parted with some of its possessions not long afterwards, for 
in the Will of Pierre de la Tour, seigneur of ChAtillon, which was 
made in 1350, the valleys of St. Nicholas and Zermatt were be- 
queathed to his three sons.* 

About this time, the Valley of Zermatt became a cause of dissen- 
sion. In the 12- 14th centuries the greatest family in the Valais was 
that of De la Tour de ChAtillon. The origin of this family is lost 
in the mist of ages. Dr. Schiner stated ^ that he possessed a manu- 
script which shewed that it was in existence before a.d. 1000. The 
De la Tours were strong enough to defy and to fight the Bishops of 
Sion, and they were frequently in hot water. ^ They were vassals 
both of the Bishop of Sion and of the Count of Savoy, and in the 
event of war between the Valais and Savoy were bound to supply 
soldiers to the former, and personal aid to the latter — a dual 
responsibility which from a business point of view was not likely 
to work well. 

Pierre de la Tour, whose will has been quoted, "quarrelled Avith 
the Bishop about his fiefs at St. Nicholas and Zermatt, which the 
prelate claimed in default of hommage ; and in 1351, along with 
some confederates, he took up arms against his spiritual superior. 

* In the month of August, these Sons of Belial thi-ew themselves 
upon the Bishop and his people, wounded them, killed a clerk and 
other persons, and pillaged upon several occasions the episcopal 
castles and lands.'" So said the sentence of excommunication which 
was pronounced against the Seigneur de la Tour and his accomplices. 
Pierre died a few years afterwards, and transmitted the quarrel as well 
as the property. Antoine de la Tour, who succeeded his father, also 

* refused to pay homage for his fiefs in the Valley of St. Nicholas,' * 
and this led to war between the Seigneur and the Bishop,^ which 
was carried on more or less continuously from 1362 to 1375. 

During this strife an incident occurred which had particular 
interest for the inhabitants of the Valley of Zermatt. At that time, 
their former lords the Biandrates were represented by Isabelle, 
comptesse de Vifege, and her son Antoine, compte de Biandrate. In 
1365, while the quarrel between Antoine de la Tour and Bishop 
Tavelli was proceeding. Count Antoine and his mother let their 
castle at Vifege to Pierre de Platea, and on November 3, to avoid 

1 "In primis animam meam Altissimo meo Creatori recommendo, etc. Et quia 
heredis institutio fundamentum et caput est totius testamenti, idcirco heredes mihi 
instituo Antonium, Johannem et Petrum, Alios meos, pro equalibus portionibus, eo 
salvo quod dono et concede dicto Antonio in avantagium, ultra portionem sibi com- 
petentem in bonis meis cum fratribus suis, castrum meum de Oastellione una cum 
vallibus de Liech, de Schauson et de Prabomy, cum pertinentiis et appendentiis 
omnibus dictorum locorum" [Gremaud, No. 1971]. 

There is another document in Gremaud [No. 2040] from which it appears that a 
certain John de Mont had rights or property in Zermatt in 1367. 

2 Description du Dipartement du Simplony ou de la ci-devant R^puhlique du Valais. 
Par Mr. Schiner, Docteur en Medicine de la Faculty de Montpellier, Svo, Sion, 1812, 
p. 27a 

3 The very first reference to them in Gremaud is in connection with some differences 
they had with the Abbey of St. Maurice, in 1158. 

4 Le Vallais kistorique, par I'Abb^ B. Rameau, 4to, Sion, 1886, pp. 88-9. 

5 This bishop was Guichard Tavelli, who held the see from 1342 to 1375^ 



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8 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. i. 

the dangers of war, went towards Brigue, intending to take refuge 
in their tower at Naters, close by; but at night-time, when near 
the bridge over the Rhone, they encountered some of the episcopal 
troops, who murdered both and flung them into the river. 

This crime was so much talked about that the Pope sent his 
Legate to the Valais to open an enquiry and to punish the guilty ; 
and a decree [Gremaud, No. 2107] was issued by him, ordering the 
Bishop to bring the murderers to justice, to recover the bodies of 
the victims and to inter them in the cathedral church in a manner 
befitting their rank ; to found two chapels with two chaplains apiece 
for perpetual mass for the repose of their souls ; and, further, that 
all their property which had been seized by the partizans of the 
Bishop was to be restored to the family. Some of it, it is said, 
went to a half-brother of Count Antoine, but the fiefs which were 
held from the Chapter of Sion were absorbed in the bishopric, and 
in course of time the Plateas of Vi^ge (formerly vassals of the 
Biandrates) came into possession of part of them.^ 

The war still went on. The Bishop besieged Antoine de la Tour 
in his castle of Bas-Ch&tiQon (or Niedergestelen) near Raron, and 
burned his villages. The Count of Savoy then intervened, and 
ordered the Seigneur to give the required homage, and condemned 
the Bishop to pay 16,000 francs for the damage he had done. 
Finally, five years later (Aug. 8, 1375), Antoine de la Tour put an 
end to his rival by hiring assassins ; who, assisted by some of his 
own men, broke into the Bishop's castle of la Soie (near Sion) in the 
early morning, seized him and his Chaplain whilst they were walking 
in a garden which extended to the battlements of the ramparts, and 
hurled both over, on the side where the rocks beneath were perpen- 
dicular [Gremaud, No. 2165]. This, even in the fourteenth century, 
was a rough way of handling a bishop, and it was not approved by 
the people. The Valaisans rose against De la Tour, burned his 
castles and "rid the country for ever from this ambitious family." 

The brothers Antoine and Jean de la Tour sold the castle of 
ChAtillon and all their possessions in the Valais to the Count of 
Savoy. The deed recording this transaction is dated St. Maurice, 
August 8, 1376 [Gremaud, No. 2214].2 The Count of Savoy, like a 
keen man of business, made sure of a sale before he effected the pur- 
chase. There is another deed in existence [Gremaud, No. 2212], dated 
at Turin, from which it appears that he sold the Castle and the 
Lotschen Thai to the new Bishop of Sion on July 9, 1376, for 40,000 
golden florins ; which, although a good round sum, was, as auctioneers 
would say, a ridicuously small and inadequate price for a domain 
of such extent. 

But, although the Bishop made the purchase, it appears that he 
had still to get into possession, for there is a document dated Aug. 
14, 1376, which sets forth that, having bought the Chateau of 
Chfi,tillon, he promised full pardon to those who still defended it 
[Gremaud, No. 2215]. Wrangles went on between the Bishops of 
1 Quoted from Baron Oingins-la-Sarraz. 
2 This important document occupies twenty-two pages of print. 



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CHAP. I. ZERMATTERS BECOME FREE MEN, 9 

Sion and the Valaisans about the property of the De la Tours for 
more than fifty years. A good deal of it, including the district with 
which we are concerned, got in course of time into the hands of 
the Esperlinis (Asperlini), the De Plateas, and the De Werras. 
These families were important ones in the Upper Valais even when the 
De la Tours were at their greatest, and it was only in the natural 
order 6f things that some of the possessions of the Seigneur of 
Ch^tiQon drifted into their nets. They all belonged to the neigh- 
bourhood of Visp (Vi^ge) — a district which, according to Chanoine 
de Rivaz, * historians agree is the cradle of the chief noblesse of the 
country.' Regarding these noble families Dr. Schiner says ** their 
number was large, and their pride extreme ; so much so that they ' 
built a church" [at Visp] "for their own especial use, namely that 
down below, in order that they should not mix with the populace, 
as they considered it too low a thing to assemble together in the 
house of God." 

Euden tells us (pp. 114, etc.) that several De Werras* are mentioned 
in a deed of 1435 as part lords of the vale of Zermatt. He says, 
also, it appears from a long roll of parchment, that three Esperlinis 
were lords of half the vale of Zermatt in 1448. In 1515, Johann 
Werra, of Leuk, bought the property of the Esperlinis, and then, in 
all, he had dominion over 115 families. These families, by a charter 
dated 1538, bought their freedom for the sum of 700 * Morserpfund ' 
from the heirs of the said Werra ; and on Jan. 25, 1540, the seniors 
assembled together in Zermatt Church to devise statutes for the 
future government of their community. 

At the same period *the noble Philip Perrini of Leuk' was lord 
of 35 families, and the De Plateas had 39 more. The Perrini men 
secured their freedom in 1562 by payment of 655 * Morserpfund,' but 
their friends and relatives under the Plateas remained serfs until 
1618, when they delivered themselves from bondage for the sum of 
450 * Morserpfund ' and four fat sheep .f^ "With what burning 
desire," says Ruden, "must they have longed for the freedom which 
their brothers had so long enjoyed." Three years later, "still in- 
toxicated with joy," the heads of these families met to arrange 
their affairs upon the same footing as the others ; but it would 
seem, from subsequent passages in Ruden, that the whole were not 
fused into a single commune until the year 1791. 

It may be inferred, from the considerable number of persons who 
were living at Zermatt during the periods referred to by Ruden, that 
the conditions of life there were not much harder in those early 
times than they are now, and this although the people of the Valais 

1 The name of Willermus Werra appears in the Gremaud documents as early as the 
year 1247 [No. 507]. Petrus de Platea de Uesbia is in one of 1255 [No. 625]. 

2 Ruden gives the names and abodes of those who were freed upon these three 
occasions, and from his lists it appears that those who were enfranchised belonged 
strictly to Zermatt and its surroundings, and not to places lower down the valley. 
The total number of families (or households) amounts to 189. If there were no more 
than four persons to a household, the ' population of Zermatt three centuries ago must 
have been considerably larger than it is now. The list of those who were freed in 
1538 contains names which will be familiar to visitors to Zermatt,— such as Perren, 
Ruden, and Weltschen. 



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10 ZERMATT AND THE MATTEBHOBN. chap. i. 

were more or less in a state of bondage.^ Yet, even when in bond- 
age, they had rights of some sort, 2 though no political influence. All 
power then was in the hands of the Bishops of Sion and the Seigneurs, 
whose relations to each other were somewhat complex. A student of 
the early history of the Valais may be excused if he does not com- 
prehend the precise relations which existed between the Bishops and 
the Seigneurs, and their serfs or vassals, as it is abundantly clear 
that the Valaisans did not understand them themselves. The history 
of their country in medieval times is principally composed of records 
of interminable disputes and petty warfare, arising from differences 
about rights which were or were not possessed. The Abb6 Gremaud, 
in speaking of these contests, divides them into three groups. There 
were 1. The wars between the lord paramount and his vassals. 2. 
Little private wars between individual lords, and 3. others between the 
lords and the communes. 

One can hardly tell what the Valais should be called during these 
times. It was neither Kingdom nor County, Empire or Republic. 
C4ingins-la-Sarraz terms it a principality, and says — 

'*La principaut^ temporelle des 6v6ques de Sion se composa dans I'origine 
d'un assemblage de diverses possessions f^odales ^parses tant dans le Haut- 
Vallais que dans le Bas ; mais, loin de former entr'elles un territoire arrondi 
et compacte, ces propri^t^s seigneuriales se trouvaient, au contraire, s^par^es 
les unes des autres et entrecoup^es par les fiefs dependants m^diatement ou 
imm^diatement de la maison de Savoie, qui poss^dait des seigneuries impor- 
tantes non-seulement dans les quartiers InMrieurs, mais aussi dans les regions 
sup^rieures de la longue valMe du Rh6ne." 

How the Counts of Savoy became masters of this part of the 
Valais, says the Abb6 Gremaud, is unknown; and he makes the 
same confession in respect to the origin of the Bishopric. From the 
12th to the 15th centuries, the Bishops of Sion were very important 
personages, who declared war on their own account, and exercised 
sovereign powers, with little to check their authority and preten- 
sions. Down to the end of the 14th century they were not drawn 
exclusively from the Valais. Several were Vaudois, and others were 
Genevese or French, or came from the Valley of Aosta; but for the 
last 500 years nearly all have been people of the country, and some 
have sprung from a very low origin. ^ The right of the Chapter to 

1 In feudal times they were bought and sold, and transferred with the land. Thus, 
in 1257 Guillaume de Moerell sold his men in the valley of the Simplon to Jocelin, 
vidomne of Sion [Gremaud, No. 638]. In 1279, Guillaume de Scala of Brigue sold 
three men to Pierre de Lou6che, Canon of Sion [Gremaud, No. 880]. In 1280, Jean de 
Mi6ge sold a man to Jacques, Canon of Sion [Gremaud, No. 886]. In 1292, Nantelme 
d'Ayent sold to the Chapter of Sion some men and his rights in the Val d'H6rens 
[Gremaud, No. 1110]. In 1358, Jean, seigneur of Anniviers, sold some *taillable' men 
to Tavelli, Bishop of Sion [Gremaud, No. 2046] ; and, in 1408, Antoine de la Rochiz sold 
men to Perret de la Chapelle [Gremaud, No. 2587]. 

5i Ruden says [p. 122] that Jodok Kalbermatter of Visp bought a portion of the 
Platea property at Zermatt in 1528, and upon May 10 met his purchased vassals in the 
Church, to receive their submission and oath of fidelity, and in return promised not 
to curtail their rights and privileges. 

3 England has been visited by two Bishops of Sion. Ermanfroid, who held the see 
from 1055 to 1082, came as Pope's Legate in 1070, and presided at the Council at 
Windsor when Stigand, Archbishop of Canterbury, was deposed ; and Cardinal Schiner 
(nominal bishop from 1499 to 1522) came to London in the reign of Henry VIII. 



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CHAP. I. THE DIXAINS. 11 

elect the Bishop was sometimes upset by the Pope, and the people 
had no voice in the matter until recent times. The disputes which 
recurred upon this subject were only terminated in 1807 ; and now, 
when a vacancy occurs, the Chapter selects four Canons, from whom 
the Bishop is chosen by the Grand ConseU of the Canton. The 
election is confirmed by the Pope. 

After the end of the fourteenth century, the power of the great 
lords was gradually shorn and shattered, the privileges of the Bishop 
were curtailed, and in course of time the people acquired the 
management of their own affairs and a voice in the election of their 
rulers. It took much to rouse them to action against their spiritual 
chiefs. Valaisans have always been good Catholics. " How blessed 
it is," said the mother of Thomas Platter, *'to be the mother of a 
priest " ; and this feeling, to which she gave expression four centuries 
ago, exists amongst the people of the Valais at the present time. 
But there are some things which flesh and blood cannot endure. 
While it is annoying to be frequently menaced with eternal damna- 
tion, it is more than aggravating, when you bring a basket of 
trout to market, to have the biggest picked out by your Bishop, 
the next best by his Vice-lord (vidamne), and to have only the 
refuse left for sale ; and, it may be, the revolt of the Valaisans 
against the authority of their Bishops, and against the Seigneurs, 
was more stimulated by a desire to rid themselves from such petty 
oppressions than by a wish to found a model Republic, or from a 
profound belief that all men are bom free and equal. Sometimes 
they chased their Bishops from the diocese. They shut one up, and 
kept him a prisoner, refusing to release him until he had assented 
to their demands ; and another (who is said to have been remark- 
able for his learning and eloquence) was told to his face " We are 
a free people. Understand that if the Bishops of Sion have exer- 
cised sovereign powers they have done it simply through our good- 
nature. . . As you will not sign, we are off at once ; and we will 
go from dizain to dizain, to tell the people. . . Don't mistake, they 
will rise in fury, and will destroy your chdteanx, and you will learn 
from experience that you would have done better to have paid 
attention to our wishes." 

In 1628 (ten years after the Zermatters had freed themselves 
from their lords) the Valais was first termed a Republic, and for 
some length of time afterwards the country enjoyed comparative 
repose. The condition of affairs towards the end of the 18th century 
was thus described by Marc Bourrit.^ 

"The confederation is made up of seven little republics, called JJiiuins,^ 
and at different times each one of them has contracted its own particular 
alliances ; but they felt that unity was strength, and could only bring about 

1 Description dea Alpes Pennines et Rhetien^ies, par M. T. Bourrit, 8vo, Geneva, 
1781 ; vol. 1, pp. 105-6. 

2 Schiner {Description du D^parteinent, p. 9) says, the Upper Valais was dividetl 
into seven districts "which the Valaisans called Disains or Dixains, in Latin Deseni, 
and in German Zenden. One does not know the origin of this term. However, it 
cannot be derived from the word ten, as there are only seven and not ten." The Abb6 
Gremaud (vol. v, pp. Ixxxi-ii) adopts a different view. This author says that the term 
dizain was first employed in 1417. 



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12 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHOBN. chap. i. 

unity by a well-considered confederation. The Dixains appoint the Bishop to 
preside over their assemblies. This is not altogether a voluntary choice ; but 
exhausted by long troubles they could only terminate them by associating the 
Bishop with the Grovernment. . . To-day he is called Prince. He has the 
right to strike money in certain cases, and to pardon. . . The election of a 
Bishop is a matter of importance," 

and he then went on to shew how it was managed at that time. 

Bourrit (writing in 1781) spoke favourably of the Valaisans, par- 
ticularly of those in the neighbourhood of Visp. "One finds there," 
he said, "an enchanting openness and sweetness of character. . . 
The children seemed to us to be the most beautiful in the Valais ; 
they followed us in troops, from house to house, with a familiarity 
to which we were not quite accustomed. . . We were very much 
surprised that they refused some money which we offered to them. . . 
This corner of the world seemed to possess all that could contribute 
to render life happy." But it would appear that this pastoral sim- 
plicity and almost angelic condition did not prevail universally, and 
he rather spoiled his picture by mentioning upon an earlier page that 
he found himself "by the side of a gibbet, having bits of corpses 
fastened to it, — heads and limbs being nailed up. This horrible sight, 
which we came upon unexpectedly, is very common throughout the 
Valais y where justice is severe — where they hang a man for robberies 
which elsewhere are punished at the most with a whipping." 

* This corner of the world,' a few years later, was again the 
theatre of sanguinary and barbarous scenes. The Republicans of 
the Upper Valais did not regard favourably the advances which 
were made upon them by the French Republic in 1799 ; and, when 
fortune temporarily favoured their arms, took the opportunity to 
bury a French officer to the waist, and to stone him to death. 
" Quelques jours auparavant, trois Vaudois surpris pillant I'^glise 
de ce premier village" [Varone] " avaient eu le crS,ne fracass6 sur 
I'enclume d'une forge. "^ These barbarities appear to have caused 
the reprisals which a few months later were made in the Valley of 
Zermatt and elsewhere. 

From 1802 to 1810 the Valais formed an independent Republic ; 
and after that, for a short time, . Zermatt became part of the French 
Empire. The Moniteur, one morning in 1810, contained the following 
decree. 

"Napoleon, etc., considering that the route over the Simplon, which 
unites the empire with our kingdom of Italy, is useful to more than sixty 
millions of persons, that it has cost France and Italy more than eighteen 
millions, an expenditure which would become useless unless commerce could 
be carried on conveniently and in perfect safety ; that the Vallais has not 
kept any of the engagements which it entered into when we commenced the 
works of this great line of communication, wishing also to put an end to the 
anarchy which afflicts the country, and to cut short the pretensions of one 
part of the population to sovereignty over the other, let it be decreed as 
follows. Art. I. The Vallais is united to the Empire. Art. II. The territory 
shall form a department under the title the BSpartement du Simplon." 

The Valais was incorporated forthwith, and remained a Department 

1 Both these statements are taken from Hilaire Gay's Histoire du Vallais^ vol. ii, 
p. 110. 



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CHAP. I. THE FIRST ENGLISHMAN AT ZEBMATT, 13 

of the French Empire for about three years. After the battle of 
Leipzig the allies speedily penetrated into Switzerland ; and, on Dec. 
24, 1813, the Pr^fet of the Departement du Simplon, learning of 
their approach, made himself scarce, and went off in hot haste to 
Chambery >vith all the cash, leaving his guns behind him. A pro- 
visional Government for the Valais was established shortly afterwards, 
and on Sept. 12, 1814, *'it was received, as the twentieth Canton, 
into the bosom of the Swiss Confederation."* 

Down to the end of the 18th century Zermatt was not much 
visited by strangers. To gens du pays, however, it must have been 
a well-known place. So long back as 1414, Guichard de Rarogne 
dated a proclamation from Zermatt (Pratobomo),^ which he would 
not have done if the name had been unfamiliar to those he addressed ; 
and in 1364 and 1428 Zermatt paid Peter's Pence [Gremaud, Nos. 
2090 and 2784], and may therefore have been heard of at Rome. 
To some extent, at least, it was known to the outer world. When 
De Saussure went there in 1789 he clearly had obtained some previous 
knowledge of the place. He was led to believe in the Val d'Ayas 
that he would be able to get from St. Jacques to Zermatt in a day 
— a fair day's work at the present time ; and, although he did not 
accomplish this (being compelled by bad weather to make for Breuil), 
he actually took mules across from Breuil to Zermatt, and this seems 
to have been an ordinary proceeding at that time, although it is not 
now. His reception at Zermatt was somewhat frigid. There was no 
inn, and he says that the cabaretiers were either away or refused to 
take him in, and that the Cur6 declined to sell him anything. The 
first Englishman who is known to have visited Zermatt fared better. 

Mr. George Cade, a native of York, passed that way in 1800.^ 
The people flocked together in the Val Toumanche to regard the 
novel spectacle, and when he crossed into Switzerland the Cu7'6 of 
St. Nicholas told him that he had never before seen an Englishman. 
Mr. Cade left Chamonix at the beginning of Sept. 1800, accompanied 
by the Marie Coutet (Couttet) who had been guide to De Saussure 
in 1789, and in earlier years. They crossed the Great St. Bernard 
together, went up the Val Toumanche, and over the Theodul Pass to 
Zermatt, and thence to Visp and down the Rhone Valley. In con- 
nection with the Val Toumanche, Mr. Cade refers to a man named 
Erin, who was said to be 'the best guide in the country.' He accom- 
panied them to the top of the Theodul, whence he was sent back. 
* He went whistling away . . . without pikes or precaution.' This 
would appear to be the same Jean-Baptiste Erin who had conducted 
De Saussure, and, as it is stated that he was a guide, one may pre- 
sume that travellers or tourists were not altogether unkno>vn. But 

1 Higtoire du Vallais depuis les temps les plus andens jusqu'd, nos jours, par Hilaire 
Gay, 8vo, Geneva and Paris, 1889, vol. ii, pp. 124-6, 129. 

2 Ordering the men of Lou6che and elsewhere to guard the passes against the Bernese 
[Gremaud, No. 2623]. 

8 In the Alpine Journal, vol. vii, pp. 431-436, the Rev. J. Sowerby drew attention 
to a manuscript account of Mr. Cade's journey, and printed a portion of it. By the 
favour of its present owner, I have been permitted to examine this manuscript, and to 
make the extracts which are given. 



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14 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. i. 

Mr. Cade says that since the journey of De Saussure *no attempts 
have been made to cross this famous passage' (the Theodul Pass), 
though he observes shortly afterwards 

"that there is still some commerce carried on through this pass . . . which 
is probably the highest in the world for any man or animal. . . Nine mules 
had made the ascent this year. . . It is not uncommon for the passage to 
be shut up the whole year. Indeed the mules never cross from one side to 
the other if they sink much in the snow, or suffer from the rarefaction of the 
air. They are immediately unloaded, and the muleteers make shift themselves 
to transport their merchandize ; otherwise, they proceed slowly to the Col, 
deposit their goods there and retire, either unloaded or in charge of articles 
left there perhaps several weeks before, purposely for them. Thus the Val- 
laisans send iron into Piedmont, and receive in exchange diflPerent wines." 

His experience at Zermatt is thus described. "They addressed us 
in High Dutch, too high indeed for our weak understandings," but 
the CuH behaved well, and sent a message that he "wished for 
nothing so much as to be of service," and in the evening they had 
a chat. 

**The conversation grew spirited. Politics were soon introduced by a detail 
of the entry of the French in the Valley of St. Nicholas : but why retrace the 
crimes with which it was accompanied, the violation of Wives and Virgins? 
Children, like the old, were murdered without mercy. . . When the enemy 
reached Zermatt the same cruelties were repeated, with an extortion of 
500,000 livres. Meanwhile our host, this excellent old man, was bound, and 
a poignard was held at his breast till the demand was exacted.' The brave 
and generous villagers sacrificed everything for their Priest." 

During the first half of the nineteenth century Zermatt was not 
unfrequently visited both by Swiss and strangers, 2 but the total 
number per annum was inconsiderable. This may be inferred from 
the slight notice bestowed upon it in " The Traveller's Guide through 
Switzerland^ by Mr. J. G. Ebel, a new edition, arranged and im- 
proved by Daniel Wall," London, 1818, which was one of the earliest 
guide-books to Switzerland published in English. ^ The first edition of 
MuiTay's Handbook for Travellers in Switzerland and the Alps of 
Savoy and Piedmont, published in 1838, devotes, however, several 
pages to the Valleys of Saas and Zermatt ; and from the details 
which are given, it is obvious that the district was becoming some- 
what more visited, though, at that time, there was still no inn at 
Zermatt. 

"The house of the cur^ offers its hospitalities, and a worthier host than 
Jean Fran9ois de la Costa cannot be found. In the little plain of Zermatt, 
situated amidst the grandest scenery of nature, surrounded by forests of pines 

1 These appear to have been reprisals for the barbarities mentioned on p. 12. 

2 Amongst the better-known persons who went there may be mentioned W. Brockedon, 
the Artist (1825) ; Elie de Beaumont (1834) ; Engelhardt (1835) ; Desor and Studer (1839) ; 
Agassiz, Charpentier and Topflfer (1840); J. D. Forbes (1841); John Ball (1845); and 
John Ruskin (1849). 

3 It said, "A place which may perhaps Interest the tourist is the Valley of 
Praborgnb, which communicates with that of St. Nicholas. It is bounded by enormous 
glaciers, which descend to the bottom of the valley. The village of Praborgne is very 
lofty : it overlooks these glaciers from an immense height." It seems that the writer 
of this paragraph had not been on the spot, and he appears to be doubtful whether 
the tourist wtnud be interested. 



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THE BROTHERS SMYTH. 



15 



and vast glaciers, is placed, with its neat church, this elevated and retired 
village, with more cleanness and comfort among its inhabitants than is to be 
found in many places of greater pretensions : this has perhaps been effected 
by the influx of strangers, for many mineralogists, botanists, and entomologists, 
come here to collect rich harvests in the neighbourhood." 

Until 1852, the only hotel at Zermatt was a little inn kept by 
the village doctor (Lauber), which was started in 1839. Though 
small and humble, it was sufficient for the wants of the place. ^ In 
1852, the Hotel du Mont Cervin was opened, at what was then the 
northern end of the village. ^ In 1854, the Lauber inn was acquired 
by Mons. Alexandre Seiler, who christened it Hotel du Mont Kose. 
M. Seiler understood the art of inn -keeping. He knew how to 
welcome the coming and to speed the parting guest; and admirably 
seconded by his estimable wife, he soon made a name for the Mont 
Kose. There was no need to advertise the house by the ordinary 
methods, for it was advertised sufficiently by its clienUle. If any- 
one enquired What is the best hotel in Zermatt? or Where shall 
we go? the answer was *Go to the Monte Rosa,' or ' Go to Seller's.' 
Success, however, was not immediate. In the first years that he kept 

the house, the total number of visitors 
amounted to about eighty per annum. 
Perhaps as many more, or a slightly 
larger number, patronised the Hotel du 
Mont Cervin, but this hotel was not popu- 
lar and was never full, and people used 
to leave it to come to the Mont Rose. 

Nearly simultaneously with the founda- 
tion of the latter hotel, the outburst of 
British energy occurred which led to the 
subjugation of all the High Alps around 
Zermatt. Down to 1853, the Breithorn 
was the only one of the great peaks in 
this district which had been ascended. 
Between 1854 and 1865 all of the rest 
were conquered. The ball, so to speak, 
was opened by the three brothers Smyth, 
— gentlemen who, happily, are all still alive. In 1854, Captain (now 
Colonel) Edmund Smyth, the Rev. Christopher Smyth, and the Rev. 
(now Canon) J. G. Smytli,^ made the first ascent of the Strahlhorn 

1 The Lauber inn is incorporated in the present Monte Rosa Hotel, and fonns part 
of its southern end. It had apparently, only one story, and a very narrow frontage to 
'the street.' The bureau of the present hotel, the smoking-room, and the rooms 
above, belonged to the original building. 

2 The original Mont Cervin Hotel was scarcely a quarter of the size of the present 
hotel of that name, in which it is now incorporated. 

3 All three of the Smyths were climbers in the days of their youth. Canon Smyth 
when at Westminster is said to have clambered up by the School to the top of the 
Chapter House, where, finding a ladder, he was enabled to continue his explorations as far 
as the clock in the West Tower ! Col. Smyth is ' Crab Jones.' Don't you know Crab 
Jones? "Here he comes, sauntering along with a straw in his mouth, the queerest, 
coolest fish in Ru^by. If he were tumbled into the moon this minute, he would just 
pick himself up without taking his hands out of his pockets or turning a hair."— Tom 
Brotcn's School -Days. When Capt. Smyth went to the Himalayas, the natives used to 




ALEXANDRE SEILER I. 



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CHAP. I. ALEXANDRE SEILER L 17 

from the Adler Pass, and they then turned their attention to Monte 
Rosa. The first ascent of the highest mountain in Switzerland (the 
second in elevation in the Alps) might have been expected to have 
received a good deal of attention. The comparatively small notice 
that has been given to it has been due, I think, to the fact that no 
adequate account of the expedition has been published. ^ 

These two ascents were quickly followed by those of the other 
mountains which are enumerated in the accompanying Table. The 
number of visitors to Zermatt increased rapidly during this period, 
though aU who came could still be accommodated in the two hotels. 
After 1865, there was a notable augmentation in numbers, which 
was due to the publicity given by the Times newspaper to an 
account of the first ascent of the Matterhorn. From this relation, 
which was reprinted throughout the world, millions of people heard 
the names of Zermatt and the Matterhorn for the first time. The 
Monte Rosa Hotel benefited most from this, and in 1867 Mons. 
Seller was able to make himself master of both hotels, and under 
his able management the Mont Cervin lost its old reputation. The 
large building called the Hotel Zermatt was erected by the Commune, 
but it now forms part of the Seller Hotels ; and in 1884 the great 
establishment at the Riffelalp was opened by the enterprise of 
Alexandre Seller I. No one who knows the facts will dispute that 
the capacity and tact with which he directed his affairs, the geniality 
with which he received his patrons, and the kindliness which he and 
his esteemed wife extended to all who were in difficulty, had much 
to do with the development of the place, and that they occupy a 
very prominent position amongst the makers of Zermatt. 

say *he could climb where birds could not fly,' — which is an Oriental equivalent for 
' Monsieur has the agility of a chamois ! ' 

1 A reference to, rather than an account of it was published in the 2nd ed. of the 
book entitled Where there's a Will there's a Way, 8vo, London, 1856, and some notice of 
it was taken in the IlhiMrated London News, and in a Norfolk newspaper ; but with 
these exceptions nothing of the nature of an account has, I believe, been published of 
the first ascent of Monte Rosa. 




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First Ascents of the principal Peaks in the Zermatt 
District, arranged in Chronological Order. 







Height 




Year. 


Name of Peak. 


in 
Feet 


First Ascent made bj' 


1854 


Stralhhorn 


13,750 


Rev. Christopher Smyth, Capt. Edmund 
Smyth, and Rev. J. Grenville Smyth, 
with — Andermatten of Saas. 














1855 


Monte Rosa, 


15,217 


Mr. J. Birkbeck, Rev. Charles Hudson, 




highest point 




Rev. Christopher Smyth, Rev. J. Gren- 
ville Smyth, and Rev. E. Stevenson, with 
Ulrich Lauener and other guides. 


1856 


Allalinhorn 


13,235 


Mr. E. L. Ames, with Franz Andermatten 
and — Imseng of Saas. 


1858 


DOM . 


14,941 


Rev. J. Llewelyn Davies, with Johann zum 
Taugwald, — Kronig of Zermatt, and a 
man from Randa. 


1859 


RiMPFISCHHORN . 


13,790 


Rev. Leslie Stephen and Dr. R. Liveing, 
with Melchior Anderegg and Johann zum 
Taugwald. 


1860 


Alphubel . 


13,803 


Rev. Leslie Stephen, with Melchior An- 
deregg. 


1861 


Lyskamm . 


14,889 


Mr. W. E. Hall, Rev. J. F. Hardy, Mr. 
J. A. Hudson, Mr. C. H. Pilkington, 














Prof. Ramsay, Mr. T. Rennison, Dr. 
Sibson, Mr. R. Stephenson, with J. P. 














Cachat, Franz Lochmatter, Peter Perrn, 








J. M. Perm, and Stephan zum Taugwald. 


J) 


Weisshorn . 


14,803 


Dr. John Tyndall, with J. J. Bennen and 
— Wenger. 


>5 


Castor 


13,878 


Mr. William Mathews and Mr. F. W. 
Jacomb, with Michel Croz and Jean- 
Baptiste Croz. 


55 


Nord End, Monte 


15,132 


Mr. E. N. Buxton, Sir T. Fowell Buxton, 




Rosa 




and Mr. J. J. Cowell, with Michel Payot 
and other guides. 


1862 


Dent Blanche . 


14,318 


Mr. T. S. Kennedy and Mr. Wigram, with 
Jean-Baptiste Croz and — Kronig. 


j> 


Taschhorn . 


14,757 


Rev. J. Llewelyn Davies and Rev. J. 
Hayward, with Johann and Stephan zum 
Taugwald. 


1864 


Pollux 


13,432 


Mons. Jacot, with ? 


^j 


Rothhorn 


13,855 


Mr. F. Craufurd Grove and Rev. Leslie 




(Moming) 




Stephen, with Melchior Anderegg and 
Jakob Anderegg. 


1865 


Ober Gabelhorn 


13,363 


Mr. A. W. Moore and Mr. Horace Walker, 
with Jakob Anderegg. 




Matterhorn 


14,705 


Lord Francis Douglas, Mr. Hadow, Rev. 
Charles Hudson, and Mr. Edward 
Whymper, with Michel Croz, Peter 
Taugwalder pere^ and Peter Taugwalder 
fls. 



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CHAPTER II. 

UPON SOME ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN. 

ATTEMPTS BY THE CHASSEURS OF VAL TOURNANCHE (1858-9)— MESSRS. 
PARKER IN 1860 — MR. VAUGHAN HAWKINS IN 1860— SECOND 
ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. PARKER IN 1861 — MY FIRST NIGHT ON THE 
MATTERHORN (1861) — CAMP ON THE COL DU LION — WINTER 
ATTEMPT BY MR. T. S. KENNEDY IN 1862— RENEWED ATTACKS 
WITH MR. R. J. S. MACDONALD — A SOLITARY SCRAMBLE ON THE 
MATTERHORN — A NIGHT ALONE — A TUMBLE — MY FIFTH AND 
SIXTH ATTEMPTS IN 1862 — PROFESSOR TYNDALL REACHES * THE 
shoulder' — MY SEVENTH ATTEMPT (1863) — ABANDONMENT OF 
THE SOUTH-WEST RIDGE — MY EIGHTH ATTEMPT (1865) — BAM- 
BOOZLED AND HUMBUGGED — A FLANK MARCH. 

The name of Zermatt is inseparably connected with that of the 
Matterhom. This grand mountain, though not the loftiest of its 
district,^ is the peak above all others that people wish to see. Train- 
loads of tourists pass the Weisshorn daily without emotion, but they 
raise a cheer when Mont Cervin comes in sight. 

Most tourists obtain their first view of the mountain either from 
the valley of Zermatt or from that of Toumanche. From the former 
direction the base of the mountain is seen at its narrowest, and its 
ridges and faces seem to be prodigiously steep. The view of the 
mountain from Breuil, in the Val Toumanche, is scarcely less striking 
than that on the other side ; but it perhaps makes less impression, 
because the spectator grows accustomed to the sight while coming up 
the valley. From this direction the mountain is seen to be broken 
up into a series of pyramidal wedge-shaped masses. It was natural 
to suppose that a way would more readily be found to the summit 
on a side thus broken up than in any other direction. The eastern 
face, fronting the Riffel, seemed one smooth, inaccessible cliff, from 
summit to base. The ghastly precipices which face the Z'Mutt Glacier 
forbade any attempt in that direction. There remained only the side 
of Val Toumanche ; and it will be found that nearly all the earliest 
attempts to ascend the mountain were made upon that side. 

The first efforts to ascend the Matterhorn of which I have heard 
were made in the years 1858-9, from the direction of Breuil, by some 
chasseurs of the Val Toumanche. The highest point that was attained 
was about as far as the place which is now called the * Chimney' 

1 It is exceeded in elevation by Monte Rosa, the two highest points of the Mischabel- 
homer, the Lyskamm, and the Weisshom. 



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THE MATTERHORN, FROM THE RIFFELBERG. 



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CH. II. EARLIEST ATTEMPTS ON THE MATTERHORN. 21 

(chemin^e), a height of about 12,650 feet. Those who were concerned 
in these expeditions were Jean-Antoine Carrel, Jean- Jacques Carrel, 
Victor Carrel, the Abb^ Gorret, and Gabrielle Maquignaz.* 

Attempt by Messrs. Parker (1860). — The next attempt was made 
by the Messrs. Alfred, Charles, and Sandbach Parker, of Liverpool, 
in July 1860. These gentlemen, without guides, endeavoured to stonu 
the peak by attacking its eastern face. The brothers went along the 
ridge between the Homli and the peak until they came to the point 
where the ascending angle is considerably increased. This place is 
marked on Dufour's map of Switzerland 3298 metres (10,820 feet). 
They were then obliged to bear a little to the left to get on to the 
face of the mountain ; and, afterwards, they turned to the right, and 
ascended about 700 feet higher, keeping as nearly as was practicable 
to the crest of the ridge, but, occasionally, bearing a little to the left 
— that is, more on to the face of the mountain. Clouds, a high wind, 
and want of time, were the causes which prevented them from going 
farther. Their highest point was under 12,000 feet. 

Attempt by Mr. Yanghan Hawkins (1860). — Another attempt to 
ascend the mountain was made towards the end of August 1860, by 
Mr. Vaughan Hawkins, from the side of the Val Toumanche. Mr. 
Hawkins inspected the Matterhom in 1859, with the guide J. J. 
Bennen, and formed the opinion that the south-west ridge ^ would lead 
to the summit. He engaged J. -Jacques Carrel, who was concerned 
in the first attempts, and, accompanied by Bennen (and by Professor 
Tyndall, whom he had invited to take part in the expedition), he 
started for the gap between the little and the great peak.^ 

Mr. Hawkins' party, led by Bennen, climbed the rocks abutting 
against the Couloir du Lion, on its south side, and attained the Col 
du Lion, although not without difficulty. They then followed the 
south-west ridge, passed the place at which the earliest explorers 
had turned back (the Chimney), and ascended about 300 feet more. 
Mr. Hawkins and J. -J. Carrel then stopped, but Bennen and Professor 
Tyndall mounted a few feet higher. They retreated, however, in less 
than half-an-hour, finding that time ran short ; and, descending to 
the Col by the same route as they had followed on the ascent, 
proceeded thence to Breuil, down the Couloir instead of by the rocks. 
The point at which Mr. Hawkins stopped is easily identified from his 
description. Its height is about 12,990 feet above the sea. Bennen 
and Tyndall could not have ascended more than 50 or 60 feet beyond 
this in the few minutes they were absent from the others, as they 
were upon one of the most difficult parts of the mountain. This 
l)arty therefore accomplished an advance of about 350 or 400 feet. 

1 Gabrielle Maquignaz is still alive, and is proprietor of the Hotel des Jumeaux at 
Breuil. 

2 This ridge is seen on the left of the engraving upon page 29 ; and if the reader 
consults this view, the explanatory outlines, and the maps, he will be able to form a 
fair idea of the points which were attained on this and upon the subsequent attempts. 

3 Since this time the small peak has received the name T6te du Lion. The gap is 
now caUed the Ool du Lion ; the glacier at its base, the Glacier du Lion ; and the gully 
which connects the Ool with the glacier, the Couloir du Lion. 



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22 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. ii. 

Second Attempt by Messrs. Parker (1861).— Mr. Hawkins did not 
try again, and the next attempt was made by the Messrs. Parker, 
in July 1861. They again started from Zermatt ; followed the route 
they had struck out on the previous year, and got a little higher 
than before ; but they were defeated by want of time, shortly after- 
wards left Zermatt on account of bad weather, and did not again 
renew their efforts. Mr. Parker said — "In neither case did we go 
as high as we could. At the point where we turned we saw our way 
for a few hundred feet farther ; but, beyond that, the difficulties 
seemed to increase." I am informed that both attempts should be 
considered as excursions undertaken with the view of ascertaining 
whether there was any encouragement to make a more deliberate 
attack on the north-east side. 

My first night on the Matterhom (1861). — I arrived at Breuil on 
the 28th of August 1861, with an Oberland guide, and found that 
Professor Tyndall had been there a day or two before, but had done 
nothing. On the way up we enquired for another man of all the 
knowing ones, and they, with one voice, proclaimed that Jean-Antoine 
Carrel, of the village of Val Tournanche, was the cock of the valley. 
We sought, of course, for Carrel ; and found him a well-made, resolute- 
looking fellow, with a certain defiant air which was rather taking. 
Yes, he would go. Twenty francs a-day, whatever was the result, 
was his price. I assented. But I must take his comrade. " Why 
so?" Oh, it was impossible to get along without another man. As 
he said this an evil countenance came forth out of the darkness and 
proclaimed itself the comrade. I demurred, and the negotiations 
broke off. 

I hatl seen the mountain from nearly every duection, and an 
ascent of it seemed much more than was likely to be accomplished 
in twenty-four hours. I intended to sleep out upon it, as high as 
possible, and to attempt to reach the summit on the following day. 
At Breuil, we endeavoured to induce another man to accompany us, 
but without success. Matthias zum Taugwald and other well-known 
guides were there at the time, but they declined to go on any 
account. A sturdy old fellow — Peter Taugwalder by name — said he 
would go! His price? *'Two hundred francs." "What, whether 
we ascend or not?" ** Yes — nothing less." The end of the matter 
was, that all the men who were more or less capable shewed a 
strong disinclination, or positively refused to go (theii* disinclination 
being very much in proportion to their capacity), or else asked a 
prohibitive price. This, it may be said once for all, was the reason 
why so many futile attempts were made upon the Matterhom. One 
guide after another was brought up to the mountain, and patted on 
the back, but all declined the business. The men who went had 
no heart in the matter, and took the first opportunity to turn back.^ 
For they were, with the exception of the man to whom reference 
will be made presently, universally impressed with the belief that 
the summit was entirely inaccessible. 

1 The guide Bennen must be excepted. 

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CH. II. CHRISTENING OF THE ' GREAT STAIRCASE: 23 

We resolved to go alone, and anticipating a cold bivouac, begged 
the loan of a couple of blankets from the innkeeper. He refused 
them ; giving the curious reason, that we had bought a bottle of 
brandy at Val Toumanche, and had not bought any from him ! No 
brandy, no blankets, appeared to be his rule. We did not require 
them that night, as it was passed in the highest cow-shed in the 
valley, which is about an hour nearer to the mountain than the 
hotel. The cowherds, good fellows, seldom troubled by tourists, 
hailed our company with delight, and did their best to make us 
comfortable ; brought out their little stores of simple food, and, as 
we sat with them round the great copper pot which hung over the 
fire, bade us in husky voice, though with honest intent, to beware 
of the perils of the haunted cliffs. When night was coming on, we 
saw, stealing up the hill-side, the forms of Jean-Antoine Carrel and 
the comrade. "Oh ho!" I said, "you have repented?" "Not at 
all; you deceive yourself." "Why then have you come here?" 
" Because we ourselves are going on the mountain to-morrow." 
"Oh, then it is not necessary to have more than three." "Not for 
w*." I admired their pluck, and had a strong inclination to engage 
the pair ; but, finally, decided against it. The cmnrade turned out 
to be the J. -J. Carrel who had been with Mr. Hawkins, and was 
nearly related to the other man. Both were bold mountaineers ; but 
Jean-Antoine was incomparably the better man of the two, and was 
the finest rock-climber I have ever seen. He was the only man who 
persistently refused to accept defeat, and who continued to believe, 
in spite of all discouragements, that the great mountain was not 
inaccessible, and that it could be ascended from the side of his 
native valley. 

The night wore away without any excitement. The two Carrels 
crept noiselessly out before daybreak, and went off. We did not 
leave until nearly seven o'clock, and followed them leisurely, leaving 
all our properties in the cow -shed ; sauntered over the gentian - 
studded slopes which intervene between the shed and the Glacier 
du Lion, left cows and their pastures behind, traversed the stony 
wastes, and arrived at the ice. Old beds of hard snow lay on its 
right bank (our left hand), and we mounted over them on to the 
lower portion of the glacier with ease. But, as we ascended, 
crevasses became numerous, and we were at last brought to a halt 
by some which were of very large dimensions ; and, as our cutting 
powers were limited, we sought an easier route, and turned, natur- 
ally, to the lower rocks of the T6te du Lion, which overlook the 
glacier on its west. Some good scrambling took us in a short time 
on to the crest of the ridge which descends towards the south ; and 
thence, up to the level of the Col du Lion, there was a long natural 
staircase, on which it was seldom necessary to use the hands. I 
dubbed the place 'The Great Staircase.' Then the cliffs of the 
T6te du Lion, which rise above the Couloir, had to be skirted. This 
part varies considerably in different seasons, and in 1861 we found 
it difficult ; for the fine weather of that year had reduced the snow- 
beds abutting against it to a lower level than usual, and the rocks 



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24 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, 



CHAP. II. 



which were left exposed at the junction of the snow with the cliffs 
had few ledges or cracks to which we could hold. But by half-past 




THE COL DU LION ; LOOKING TOWARDS THE T^TE DU LION. 

ten o'clock we stood on the Col, and looked down u|K)n the mag- 
nificent ba^n out of which the Z'Mutt Glacier flows. We decided 
to pass the night upon the Col, for we were charmed with the 
capabilities of the place, although it was one where liberties could 
not be taken. On one side a sheer wall overhung the Tiefenmatten 



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CHAP. II. MY FIRST CAMP ON THE MATTEEHORN, 25 

Glacier. On the other, steep, glassy slopes of hard snow descended 
to the Glacier du Lion, furrowed by water and by falling stones. 
On the north there was the great peak of the Matterhorn,^ and on 
the south the cliflFs of the T6te du Lion. Throw a bottle down to 
the Tiefenmatten — no sound returns for more than a dozen seconds. 

* * * 'how fearful 

And dizzy 'tis, to cast one's eyes so low ! " 

But no harm could come from that side. Neither could it from the 
other. Nor was it likely that it would from the T6te du Lion, for 
some jutting ledges conveniently overhung our proposed resting-place. 
We waited for a while, basked in the sunshine, and watched or 
listened to the Carrels, who were sometimes seen or heard, high above 
us, upon the ridge leading towards the summit ; and, leaving at mid- 
day, we descended to the cow-shed, packed up the tent and other 
properties, and returned to the Col, although heavily laden, before 
six o'clock. This tent was not a success. It looked very pretty when 
set up in London, but it proved thoroughly useless in the Alps. It 
was made of light canvas, and opened like a book ; had one end closed 
permanently and the other with flaps ; it was supported by two alpen- 
stocks, and had the canvas sides prolonged so as to turn in underneath. 
Numerous cords were sewn to the lower edges, to which stones were 
to be attached ; but the main fastenings were by a cord which passed 
underneath the ridge and through iron rings screwed into the tops of 
the alpenstocks, and were secured by pegs. The wind, which play- 
fully careered about the surrounding cliffs, was driven through our 
gap as through a blow-pipe ; the flaps of the tent would not keej) 
down, the pegs would not stay in, and it exhibited so marked a 
desire to go to the top of the Dent Blanche, that we thought it 
prudent to take it down and sit upon it. When night came on we 
wrapped ourselves in it, and made our camp as comfortable as the cir- 
cumstances would allow. The silence was impressive. No living thing 
was near our solitary bivouac ; the Carrels had turned back and were 
out of hearing ; the stones had ceased to fall, and the trickling water 
to murmur. 

It was bitterly cold. Water froze hard in a bottle under my head. 
Not surprising, as we were actually on snow, and in a position where 
the slightest wind was at once felt. For a time we dozed, but about 
midnight there came from high aloft a tremendous explosion, followed 
by a second of dead quiet. A great mass of rock had split off, and 
was descending towards us. My guide started up, wrung his hands, 
and exclaimed, " O my God, we are lost ! " We heard it coming, 
mass after mass pouring over the precipices, bounding and rebounding 
from cliff to cliff, and the great rocks in advance smiting one another. 
They seemed to be close, although they were probably distant, but 
some small fragments, which dropped upon us at the same time from 
the ledges just above, added to the alarm. 

We put ourselves in motion at daybreak, and commenced the 

1 The engraving is made after a sketch taken from the rocks of the Matterhorn, 
just above the Ooi. 



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26 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ii. 

ascent of the south-west ridge. There was no more sauntering with 
hands in the pockets, — each step had to be earned by dowmight climb- 
ing. But it was the most pleasant kind of climbing. The rocks were 
fast and unencumbered with debris ; the cracks were good, although 
not numerous ; and there was nothing to fear except from one's-self . 

Hardly an hour passed before we arrived at the * Chimney.' A 
smooth, straight slab of rock was fixed, at a considerable angle, be- 
tween two others equally smooth. My companion essayed to go up, 
and, after crumpling his long body into many ridiculous positions, he 
said that he would not, for he could not, manage it. With some little 
trouble I got up unassisted, and then my guide tied himself on to the 
end of our rope, and I endeavoured to pull him up. But he was so 
awkward that he did little for himself, and so heavy that he proved 
too much for me^ and after several attempts he untied himself, and 
quietly observed that he should go down. I told him he was a coward, 
and he mentioned his opinion of me, I requested him to go to Breuil, 
and to say that he had left his * monsieur ' on the mountain, and he 
turned to go ; whereupon I had to eat humble pie and ask him to 
come back ; for, although it was not very difficult to go up, and not 
at all dangerous with a man standing below, it was quite another 
thing to come down, as the lower edge overhung in a provoking 
manner. 

The day was perfect ; the sun was pouring down grateful warmth ; 
the wind had fallen ; the way seemed clear, no insuperable obstacle 
was in sight; but what could one do alone? I stood on the top, 
chafing under this unexpected contretemps, and remained for some 
time irresolute ; but as it became apparent that the Chimney was 
swept more frequently than was necessary (it was a natural channel 
for falling stones), I turned at last, descended with the assistance of 
my companion, and returned with him to Breuil, where we arrived 
about mid-day. 

The Carrels did not shew themselves. We were told that they 
had not got to any great height,^ and that the 'comrade,' who for 
convenience had taken off his shoes and tied them round his waist, 
had managed to let one of them slip, and had come down with a 
piece of cord fastened round his naked foot. Notwithstanding this, 
they had boldly glissaded down the Couloir du Lion, J. -J. Carrel 
having his shoeless foot tied up in a pocket handkerchief. 

The Matterhom was not assailed again in 1861. I left Breuil with 
the conviction that it was little use for a single person to organise 
an attack upon it, so great was its influence on the morals of the 
guides ; and persuaded that it was desirable at least two should go, 
to back each other when required : and departed with my guide over 
the Col Th^odule, longing, more than before, to make the ascent, and 
determined to return, if possible, with a companion, to lay siege to 
the mountain until one or the other was vanquished. 

1 I learned afterwards from Jean-Antoine Carrel that they got considerably higher than 
upon their previous attempts, and about 250 or 300 feet higher than Professor Tyndall 
in 1860. In 1862, 1 saw the initials of J. -A. Carrel cut on the rocks at the place where 
he and his comrade had turned back. 



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CHAP. II. 



A WIN TEE ATTEMPT. 



27 



A winter attempt by Mr. T. S. Kennedy (1862).— The year 1862 
was still young, and the Matterhorn, clad in its wintry garb, bore 
but little resemblance to the Matterhorn of the summer, when a new 
force came to do battle with the mountain, from another direction. 
Mr. T. S. Kennedy of Leeds conceived the extraordinary idea that 
the peak might prove less im- 
practicable in January than in 

June, and arrived at Zermatt :. 

in the former month to put his \\ -it^'^ 

conception to the test. With 
stout Peter Perm and sturdy 
Peter Taugwalder he slept in 
the little chapel at the Schwarz- 
see, and on the next morning, 
like the Messrs. Parker, followed 
the ridge between the peak 
called Homli and the great 
mountain. But they found that 
snow in winter obeyed the ordi- 
nary laws, and that wind and 
frost were not less unkind than 



in summer. 




THOMAS S. KENNEDY. 



"The wind whirled up the snow 
and spiculsB of ice into our faces like 

needles, and flat pieces of ice a foot in diameter, carried up from the glacier 
below, went flying past. Still no one seemed to like to be the first to give in, 
till a gust fiercer than usual forced us to shelter for a time behind a rock. Im- 
mediately it was tacitly understood that our expedition must now end ; but we 
determined to leave some memento of our visit, and, after descending a consider- 
able distance, we found a suitable place with loose stones of which to build 
a cairn. A tower six feet high was erected ; a bottle, with the date, was 
placed inside, and we retreated as rapidly as possible." 

ThLs cairn was placed at the spot marked upon Dufour's Map of 
Switzerland 10,820 feet (3298 metres), and the highest point attained 
by Mr. Kennedy was not, I imagine, more than two or three hundred 
feet above it. The cairn disappeared long ago. 

Shortly after this Professor Tyndall gave an account of the reason 
why he had left Breuil, in August 1861, without doing anything. ^ 
It seems that he sent his guide Bennen to reconnoitre, and that the 
latter made tlie following report to his employer : — 

"Herr, I have examined the mountain carefully, and find it more difficult 
and dangerous than I had imagined. There is no place upon it where we 
could well pass the night. We might do so on yonder Col upon the snow, 
but there we should be almost frozen to death, and totally unfit for the work 
of the next day. On the rocks there is no ledge or cranny which could give 
us proper harbourage ; and starting from Breuil it is certainly impossible to 
reach the summit in a single day." "I was entirely taken aback," says 
Tyndall, **by this report. I felt like a man whose grip had given way, 
and who was dropping through the air. . . Bennen was evidently dead against 
any attempt upon the mounte.in. 'We can, at all events, reach the lower of 

1 See page 22. 



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28 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. CHAP. II. 

the two summits/ I remarked. 'Even that is difficult,' he replied ; 'but when 
you have reached it, what then? The peak has neither name nor fame."'i 

I was more surprised than discouraged by this report by Bennen. 
One half of his assertions I knew to be wrong. The Col to which 
he referred was the Col du Lion, upon which we had passed a night, 
less than a week after he had spoken so authoritatively ; and I had 
seen a place not far below the * Chimney ' — a place about 500 feet 
above the Col — where it seemed possible to construct a sleeping-place. 
Bennen's opinions seem to have undergone a complete change. In 
I860 he is described as having been enthusiastic to make an attempt ; 
in 1861 he was dead against one. 

The first attempt in 1862. — Undismayed by this, my friend Mr. 
Reginald Macdonald agreed to join me in a renewed assault from the 
south ; and, although we failed to secure Melchior Anderegg and 
some other notable guides, we obtained two men of repute, namely, 
Johann zum Taugwald and Johann Kronig, of Zermatt. We met there 
early in July, but stormy weather prevented us for some days even 
from passing to the other side of the chain ; and when we crossed 
the Col Th^odule on the 5th the weather was thoroughly unsettled 
— it was raining in the valleys, and snowing upon the mountains. 

We had need of a porter, and, by the advice of our landlord, 
descended to the chalets of Breuil in search of one Luc Meynet. 
We found his house a mean abode, encumbered with cheese-making 
apparatus, and tenanted only by some bright-eyed children ; but as 
they said that uncle Luc would soon be home, we waited at the 
door of the little chalet and watched for him. At last a speck was 
seen coming round the comer of the patch of pines below Breuil, and 
then the children clapped their hands, dropped their toys, and ran 
eagerly forward to meet him. We saw an ungainly, wobbling figure 
stoop down and catch up the little ones, kiss them on each cheek, 
and put them into the empty panniers on each side of the mule, and 
then heard it come on carolling, as if this was not a world of woe : 
and yet the face of little Luc Meynet, the hunchback of Breuil, bore 
traces of trouble and sorrow, and there was more than a touch of 
sadness in his voice when he said that he must look after his brother's 
children. All his difficulties were, however, at length overcome, and 
he agreed to join us to carry the tent. 

In the past winter I had turned my attention to tents, and that 
which we had brought with us was the result of experiments to 
devise one which should be sufficiently porta})le to be taken over the 
most difficult ground, whilst combining lightness with stability. Its 
base was just under six feet square, and a cross-section perpendicular 
to its length was an equilateral triangle, the sides of which were six 
feet long. It was intended to accommodate four persons. It was 

1 MountaiTieering in 1861, a Vacation Tour, by John Tyndall ; 8vo, London, 1862 ; 
pp. 86-7. Tyndall and Bennen were mistaken in supposing that the mountain has two 
summits ; it has only one. They seem to have been deceived by the appearance of that 



Breuil. Viewed from that place, its southern end has certainly, through foreshortening, 
the semblance of a peak ; but when one regards it from the Col Th^Mule, or from any 
place in the same direction, the delusion is at once apparent. 



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UI 

z 



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30 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ii. 

supported by four ash-poles, six feet and a half long, and one inch 
and a quarter thick, tapering to the top to an inch and an eighth, 
which were shod with iron points. 

Sunday, the 6th of July, was showery, and snow fell on the Matter- 
horn, but we started on the following morning with our three men, 
and pursued my route of the previous year. I was requested to direct 
the way, as none save myself had been on the mountain before. I 
did not distinguish myself on this occasion, and led my companions 
nearly to the top of the T6te du Lion before the mistake was dis- 
covered. The party becoming rebellious, a little exploration was 
made towards our right, and we found that we were upon the top 
of the cliff overlooking the Col du Lion. The day was far advanced 
before we arrived at our camping-place on the Col. Profiting by the 
experience of last year, we did not pitch the tent actually on the 
snow, but collected a quantity of debris from the neighbouring ledges, 
and after constructing a rough platform of the larger pieces, levelled 
the whole with the dirt and mud. Meynet had proved invaluable as 
a tent-bearer; for — although his legs were more picturesque than 
symmetrical, and although he seemed to be built on principle with 
no two parts alike — his very deformities proved of service ; and we 
quickly found he had spirit of no common order, and that few 
peasants are more agreeable companions, or better climbers, than 
little Luc Meynet, the hunchback of Breuil. 

A strong wind sprang up from the east during the night, and in 
the morning it was blowing almost a hurricane. The tent behaved 
nobly, and we remained under its shelter for several hours after the 
sun had risen, uncertain what it was best to do. A lull tempted us 
to move, but we had scarcely ascended a hundred feet before the 
storm burst upon us with increased fury. Advance or return was 
alike impossible ; the ridge was denuded of its debris ; and we clutched 
our hardest when we saw stones as big as a man's fist blown away 
horizontally into space. We dared not attempt to stand upright, and 
remained stationary, on all fours, glued, as it were, to the rocks. 
It was intensely cold, for the blast had swept along the main chain 
of the Pennine Alps, and across the great snow-fields around Monte 
Rosa. Our warmth and courage rapidly evaporated, and at the next 
lull we retreated to the tent ; having to halt several times even in 
that short distance. Taugwald and Kronig then declared that they 
had had enough, and refused to have anything more to do with the 
mountain. Meynet also informed us that he would be required down 
below for important cheese-making operations on the following day. 
It was therefore needful to return to BreuU, and we arrived there at 
2.30 P.M., extremely chagrined at our complete defeat. 

Second attempt in 1862. — Jean-Antoine Carrel, attracted by rumours, 
had come up to the inn during our absence, and after some negotiations 
agreed to accompany us, with one of his friends named Pession, on 
the first fine day. We thought ourselves fortunate ; for Carrel clearly 
considered the mountain a kind of preserve, and regarded our late 
attempt as an act of poaching. The wind blew itself out during the 
night, and we started again, with these two men and a porter, at 



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CH. II. A SOLITARY SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN. 31 

8 A.M. on the 9th, with unexceptionable weather. Carrel pleased us 
^y suggesting that we should camp even higher than before ; and we 
accordingly proceeded, without resting at the Col, until we overtopped 
the T6te du Lion. Near the foot of the * Chimney,' a little below 
the crest of the ridge, and on its eastern side, we found a protected 
place ; and by building up from ledge to ledge (under the direction 
of our leader, who at that time was a working mason), we at length 
constructed a platform of sufficient size and of considerable solidity. 
Its height was about 12,550 feet above the sea. We then pushed on, 
as the day was very fine, and, after a short hour's scramble, got to 
the foot of the Great Tower upon the ridge (that is to say, to Mr. 
Hawkins' farthest point), and afterwards returned to our bivouac. 
We turned out again at 4 A.M., and at 5.15 started upwards once 
more, with fine weather and the thermometer at 28°. Can*el scrambled 
up the Chimney, and Macdonald and I after liim. Pession's turn 
came, but when he arrived at the top he looked very ill, declared 
himself to be thoroughly incapable, and said that he must go back. 
We waited some time, but he did not get better, neither could we 
learn the nature of his illness. Carrel flatly refused to go on with 
us alone. We were helpless. Macdonald, ever the coolest of the 
cool, suggested that we should try what we could do without them ; 
but our better judgment prevailed, and, finally, we returned together 
to Breuil. On the next day my. friend started for London. 

Three times I had essayed the ascent of this mountain, and on 
each occasion hatl failed ignominiously. I had not advanced a yard 
beyond my predecessors. Up to the height of nearly 13,000 feet 
there were no extraordinary difficulties ; the way so far might even 
become *a matter of amusement.' Only 1800 feet remained; but 
they were as yet untrodden, and might present the most formidable 
obstacles. No man could expect to climb them by himself. A morsel 
of rock only seven feet high might at any time defeat him, if it were 
perpendicular. Such a place might be possible to two, or a bagatelle 
to three men. It was evident that a party should consist of three 
men at least. But where could the other two men be obtained. 
Carrel was the only man who exhibitetl any enthusiasm in the matter ; 
and he, in 1861, had absolutely refused to go unless the party con- 
sisted of at least four persons. Want of men made the difficulty, 
not the mountain. 

The weather became bad again, so I went to Zermatt on the chance 
of picking up a man, and remained there during a week of storms. 
Not one of the better men, however, could be induced to come, and 
I returned to Breuil on the 17th, hoping to combine the skill of Carrel 
with the willingness of Meynet on a new attempt, by the same route 
as before ; for the upper part of the north-eastern ridge, which I had 
inspected in the meantime, seemed to be entirely impracticable. Both 
men were inclined to go, but their ordinary occupations prevented them 
from starting at once. 

A solitary scramble on the Matterhom (1862). — My tent had been 
left rolled up at the second platform, and whilst waiting for the men 
it occurred to me that it might have been blown away during the late 



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32 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. ii. 

stormy weather ; so I started oflf on the 18th to see if this were so 
or not. The way was by this time familiar, and I mounted rapidly, 
astonishing the friendly herdsmen — who nodded recognition as I flitted 
past them and the cows — for I was alone, because no man was avail- 
able. But more deliberation was necessary when the pastures were 
passed, and climbing began, as it was needful to mark each step, in 
case of mist, or surprise by night. It is one of the few things which 
can be said in favour of mountaineering alone (a practice which has 
little besides to commend it), that it awakens a man's faculties, and 
makes him observe. When one has no arms to help, and no head 
to guide him except his own, he must needs take note even of small 
things, for he cannot afford to throw away a chance ; and so it came 
to pass, upon my solitary scramble, when above the snow-line, and 
l>eyond the ordinary limits of flowering plants, when peering about, 
noting angles and landmarks, that my eyes fell upon the tiny strag- 
gling plants — oftentimes a single flower on a single stalk — pioneers 
of vegetation, atoms of life in a world of desolation, which had found 
their way up — who can tell how? — from far below, and were obtain- 
ing bare sustenance from the scanty soil in protected nooks ; and it 
gave a new interest to the well-known rocks to see what a gallant 
fight the survivors made (for many must have perished in the attempt) 
to ascend the great mountain. The Gentian, as one might have ex- 
pected, was there, but it was run close by Saxifrages, and by Linaria 
alpina^ and was beaten by Tfdaspi rotundifolium^ which latter plant 
was the highest I was able to secure, although it too was overtopped 
by a little white flower that I knew not, and was unable to reach. 

The tent was safe, although snowed up ; and I turned to contem- 
plate the view, which, when seen alone and undisturbed, had all the 
strength and charm of complete novelty. The highest peaks of the 
Pennine chain were in front — the Breithom (13,685 feet), the Lyskamm 
(14,889), and Monte Rosa (15,217); then, turning to the right, the 
entire block of mountains which separated the Val Toumanche from 
the Val d'Ayas was seen at a glance, with its culminating point the 
Grand Toumalin (11,086). Behind were the ranges dividing the Val 
d'Ayas from the Valley of Gressoney, backed by higher summits. 
More still to the right, the eye wandered down the entire length of 
the Val Toumanche, and then rested upon the Graian Alps with their 
innumerable peaks, and upon the isolated Pyramid of Monte Viso 
(12,643) in the extreme distance. Next, still turning to the right, 
came the mountains intervening between the Val Toumanche and 
the Val Barth^lemy. Mont Rouss (a round -topped snowy summit, 
which seems so important from Breuil, but which is in reaUty only 
a buttress of the higher mountain, the Chltteau des Dames) had long 
ago sunk, and the eye passed over it, scarcely heeding its existence, 
to the Becca Salle (or Bee de Sale), — a miniature Matterhom — and 
to other, and more important heights. Then the grand mass of the 
Dent d'H^rens (13,714) stopped the way ; a noble mountain, encrusted 
on its northern slopes with enormous hanging glaciers, which broke 
away at mid-day in immense slices, and thundered down on to the 
Tiefenmatten Glacier ; and lastly, most splendid of all, came the Dent 



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CHAP. II. A NIGHT ALONE. 33 

Blanche (14,318), soaring above the basin of the great Z'Muttgletscher. 
Such a view is hardly to be matched in the Alps, and this view is 
very rarely seen, as I saw it, perfectly unclouded. 

Time sped away unregarded, and the little birds which had built 
their nests on the neighbouring cliffs had begun to chirp their evening 
hymn before I thought of returning. Half mechanically I turned to 
the tent, unrolled it, and set it up. It contained food enough for 
several days, and I resolved to stay over the night. I had started 
from Breuil without provisions, or telling Favre — the innkeeper, who 
was accustomed to my erratic ways — where I was going. I returned 
to the view. The sun was setting, and its rosy rays, blending with 
the snowy blue, had thrown a pale, pure violet far as the eye could 
see ; the valleys were drowned in purple gloom, whilst the summits 
shone with unnatural brightness : and as I sat in the door of the tent, 
and watched the twilight change to darkness, the earth seemed to 
become less earthy and almost sublime ; the world seemed dead, and 
I, its sole inhabitant. By and by, the moon as it rose brought the 
hills again into sight, and by a judicious repression of detail rendered 
the view yet more magnificent. Something in the south hung like a 
great glow-worm in the air ; it was too large for a star, and too steady 
for a meteor ; and it was long before I could realise the scarcely cred- 
ible fact that it was the moonlight glittering on the great snow-slope 
on the north side of Monte Viso,' at a distance, as the crow flies, of 
98 miles. Shivering, at last I entered the tent and made my coffee. 
The night was passed comfortably, and the next morning, tempted by 
the brilliancy of the weather, I proceeded yet higher in search of 
another place for a platform. 

Solitary scrambling over a pretty wide area had shewn me that a 
single individual is subjected to many difficulties which do not trouble 
a party of two or three men, and that the disadvantages of being alone 
are more felt while descending than during the ascent. In order to 
neutralise these inconveniences, I devised two little appliances, which 
were now brought into use for the first time. One was a claw — a kind 
of grapnel — about five inches long, made of shear steel, one-fifth of an 
inch thick. This was of use in diflScult places where there was no 
hold within arm*s length, but where there were cracks or ledges some 
distance higher. The claw could be stuck on the end of the alpen- 
stock and dropped into such places, or, on extreme occasions, flung 
up until it attached itself to something. The edges that laid hold 
of the rocks were seiTated, which tended to make them catch more 
readily, and the other end had a ring to which a rope was fastened. 
It must not be understood that this was employed for hauling one's- 
self up for any great distance, but that it was used in ascending, 
at the most, for only a few yards at a time. In descending, how- 
ever, it could be prudently used for a greater distance at a time, 
as the claws could be planted firmly; but it was necessary to keep 
the rope taut, and the pull constantly in the direction of the length 
of the implement, otherwise it had a tendency to slip away. The 
second device was merely a modification of a dodge practised by all 
climbers. It is often necessary for a solitary climber (or for the last 

D 



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34 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ii. 

man of a party during a descent) to make a loop in the end of his 
rope, to pass it over some rocks, and to come down holding the free 
end. The loop is then jerked off, and the process may be repeated. 
But as it sometimes happens that there are no rocks at hand which 
will allow a loose loop to be used, a slip-knot has to be resorted to, 
and the rope is drawn in tightly. Consequently, it will occur that it 
is not possible to jerk the loop off, and the rope has to be cut and 
left behind. To prevent this, I had a wrought-iron ring (two and a 
quarter inches in diameter and three eighths of an inch thick) attached 
to one end of my rope. A loop could be made in a moment by passing 
the other end of the rope through this ring, which of course slipped 
up and held tightly as I descended holding the free end. A strong 
piece of cord was also attached to the ring, and, on arriving at the 
bottom, this was pulled ; the ring slid back again, and the loop was 
whipped off readily. By means of these two simple appliances I was 
able to ascend and descend rocks, which otherwise would have been 
completely impassable. The combined weight of these two things 
amounted to less than half-a-pound.^ 

It has been mentioned that the rocks of the south-west ridge are 
by no means difficult for some distance above the Col du Lion. This 
is true of them up to the level of the Chimney, but they steepen 
when that is passed, and remaining smooth and with but few 
fractures, and still continuing to dip outwards, present some steps 
of a very uncertain kind, particularly when they are glazed with 
ice. At this point (just above the Chimney) the climber is obliged 
to follow the southern (or Breuil) side of the ridge, but, in a few 
feet more, one must turn over to the northern (or Z'Mutt) side, 
where, in most years, nature kindly provides a snow-slope. When 
this is surmounted, one can again return to the crest of the ridge, 
and follow it, by easy rocks, to the foot of the Great Tower. 2 This 
was the highest point attained by Mr. Hawkins in 1860, and it was 
also our highest on the 9th of July. 

This Great Tower is one of the most striking features of the 
ridge. It stands out like a turret at the angle of a castle. Behind 
it a battlemented wall leads upwards to the citadel. Seen from the 
Th^odule pass it looks only an insignificant pinnacle, but as one 
approaches it (on the ridge) so it seems to rise, and, when one is 
at its base, it completely conceals the upper parts of the mountain. 
I found here a suitable place for the tent; which, although not so 
well protected as the second platform, possessed the advantage of being 
300 feet higher up ; and fascinated by the wildness of the cliffs, and 
enticed by the perfection of the weather, I went on to see what was 
behind. 

The first step was a difficult one. The ridge became diminished 
to the least possible width — it was hard to keep one's balance — and 
just where it was narrowest, a more than perpendicular mass barred 
the way. Nothing fairly within arm's reach could be laid hold of ; 

1 Illustrations of these appliances are given in Scrambles amongst the Alps. 

2 In consequence of rock-falls which have occurred, this description is no longer 
correct 



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CHAP. II. BEHIND THE GREAT TOWER. 35 

it was necessary to spring up, and then to haul one's-self over the 
sharp edge by sheer strength. Progression directly upwards was 
then impossible. Enormous and appalling precipices plunged down 
to the Tiefenmatten Glacier on the left, but round the right-hand 
side it was just possible to go. One hindrance then succeeded 
another, and much time was consumed in seeking a way. I have a 
vivid recollection of a gully of more than usual perplexity at the 
side of the Great Tower, with minute ledges and steep walls ; of the 
ledges dwindling away and at last ceasing ; and of finding myself, 
with arms and legs divergent, fixed as if crucified, pressing against 
the rock, and feeling each rise and fall of my chest as I breathed ; 
of screwing my head round to look for hold, and not seeing any, 
and of jumping sideways on to the other side. 'Tis vain to attempt 
to describe such places. Whether they are sketched with a light 
hand, or wrought out in laborious detail, one stands an equal chance 
of being misunderstood. Their enchantment to the climber arises 
from their calls on his faculties, in their demands on his strength, 
and on overcoming the impediments which they oppose to his skill. 
The non-mountaineering reader cannot feel this, and his interest in 
descriptions of such places Ls usually small, unless he supposes that 
the situations ai*e perilous. They are not necessarily perilous, but 
I think it is impossible to avoid giving such an impression if the 
difficulties aie particularly insisted upon. 

There was a change in the quality of the rock, and there was a 
change in the appearance of the ridge. The rocks (talcose gneiss) 
below this spot were singularly firm ; it was rarely necessary to test 
one's hold ; the way led over the living rock, and not up rent-off 
fragments. But here, all was decay and ruin. The crest of the 
ridge was shattered and cleft, and the feet sank in the chips which 
had drifted down ; while above, huge blocks, hacked and carved by 
the hand of time, nodded to the sky, looking like the grave-stones 
of giants. Out of curiosity I wandered to a notch in the ridge, 
between two tottering piles of immense masses, which seemed to 
need but a few pounds on one or the other side to make them fall ; 
so nicely poised that they would literally have rocked in the wind, 
for they were put in motion by a touch ; and based on support so 
frail that I wondered they did not collapse before my eyes. In the 
whole range of my Alpine experience I have seen nothing more 
striking than this desolate, ruined, and shattered ridge at the back 
of the Great Tower. It is needless to say that it is impossible to 
climb by the crest of the ridge at this part ; still one is compelled 
to keep near to it, for there is no other way. Generally speaking, 
the angles on the Matterhorn are too steep to allow the formation 
of considerable beds of snow, but here there is a corner which per- 
mits it to accumulate, and it is turned to gratefully, for, by its 
assistance, one can ascend four times as rapidly as upon the rocks. 

The Tower was now almost out of sight, and I looked over the 
central Pennine Alps to the Grand Combin, and to the chain of Mont 
Blanc. My neighbour, the Dent d'H6rens, still rose above me, al- 
though but slightly, and the height which had been attained could 



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36 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. ii. 

be measured by its help. So far, I had no doubts about my capacity 
to descend that which had been ascended ; but, in a short time, on 
looking ahead, I saw that the cliffs steepened, and I turned back 
(without pushing on to them, and getting into inextricable difficulties), 
exulting in the thought that they would be passed when we returned 
together, and that I had, without assistance, got nearly to the height 
of the Dent d'H^rens, and considerably higher than any one had been 
before.* My exultation was a little premature. 

About 5 r.M. I left the tent again, and thought myself as good 
as at Breuil. The friendly rope and claw had done good service, and 
had smoothened all the difficulties. I lowered myself through the 
Chinmey, however, by making a fixture of the rope, which I then 
cut off, and left behind, as there was enough and to spare. My axe 
had proved a great nuisance in coming down, and I left it in the 
tent. It was not attached to the bftton, but was a separate affair, 
— an old navy boarding-axe. While cutting up the different snow- 
beds on the ascent, the bAton trailed behind fastened to the rope ; 
and, when climbing, the axe was carried behind, run through the 
rope tied round my waist, and was sufficiently out of the way ; but 
in descending, when coming down face outwards (as is always best 
where it is possible), the head or the handle of the weapon caught 
frequently against the rocks, and several times nearly upset me. So, 
out of laziness if you will, it was left in the tent. I paid dearly 
for the imprudence. 

The Col du Lion was passed, and fifty yards more would have 
placed me on the 'Great Staircase,' down which one can run. But 
on arriving at an angle of the cliffs of the T^te du Lion, while skirt- 
ing the upper edge of the snow which abuts against them, I found 
that the heat of the two past days had nearly obliterated the steps 
which had been cut when coming up. The rocks happened to be 
impracticable just at this comer, and it was necessary to make the 
steps afresh. The snow was too hard to beat or tread down, and at 
the angle it was all but ice ; half-a-dozen steps only were required, 
and then the ledges could be followed again. So I held to the rock 
with my right hand, and prodded at the snow with the point of my 
stick until a good step was made, and then, leaning round the angle, 
did the same for the other side. So far well, but in attempting to 
pass the comer I slipped and fell. 

The slope was steep on which this took place, and was at the top 
of a gully that led down through two subordinate buttresses towards 
the Glacier du Lion — which was just seen, a thousand feet below. 
The gully narrowed and narrowed, until there was a mere thread of 
snow lying between two walls of rock, which came to an abrupt 
termination at the top of a precipice that intervened between it and 
the glacier. Imagine a funnel cut in half through its length, placed 
at an angle of 45 degrees, Avith its point below and its concave side 
uppermost, and you will have a fair idea of the place. 

1 A remarkable streak of snow (marked 'cravate' in the outline of the Matterhom, 
as seen from the Th6odule) runs across the cliflf at this part of the mountain. My 
highest point was somewhat higher than the lowest part of this snow, and was con- 
sequently nearly 13,500 feet above the sea. 



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CHAP. II. . A TUMBLE. 37 

Tlie knapsack brought my head down first, and I pitched into 
some rocks about a dozen feet below ; they caught something and 
tumbled me off the edge, head over heels, into the gully ; the b&ton 
was dashed from my hands, and I whirled downwards in a series of 
bounds, each longer than the last ; now over ice, now into rocks ; 
striking my head four or five times, each time with increased force. 
The last bound sent me spinning through the air, in a leap of fifty 
or sixty feet, from one side of the gully to the other, and I struck 
the rocks, luckily, with the whole of my left side. They caught my 
clothes for a moment, and I fell back on to the snow with motion 
arrested. My head fortunately came the right side up, and a few 
frantic catches brought me to a halt, in the neck of the gully, and on 
the verge of the precipice. B^ton, hat, and veil skimmed by and dis- 
appeared, and the crash of the rocks — which I had started — as they 
fell on to the glacier, told how narrow had been the escape from utter 
destruction. As it was, I fell nearly 200 feet in seven or eight bounds. 
Ten feet more would have taken me in one gigantic leap of 800 feet 
on to the glacier below. 

The situation was sufficiently serious. The rocks could not be let 
go for a moment, and the blood was spirting out of more than twenty 
cuts. The most serious ones were in the head, and I vainly tried to 
close them with one hand, whilst holding on with the other. It was 
useless ; the blood jerked out in blinding jets at each pulsation. At 
last, in a moment of inspiration, I kicked out a big lump of snow, 
and stuck it as a plaster on my head. The idea was a happy one, 
and the flow of blood diminished. Then, scrambling up, I got, not 
a moment too soon, to a place of safety, and fainted away. The sun 
was setting when consciousness returned, and it was pitch dark before 
the Great Staircase was descended ; but, by a combination of luck 
and care, the whole 4900 feet of descent to Breuil was accomplished 
without a slip, or once missing the way. I entered the inn stealthily, 
wishing to escape to my room unnoticed. But Favre met me in the 
passage, demanded "Who is it?" screamed with fright when he got 
a light, and aroused the household. Two dozen heads then held 
solemn council over mine, with more talk than action. The natives 
were unanimous in recommending that hot wine mixed with salt 
should be rubbed into the cuts. I protested, but they insisted. It 
was all the doctoring they received. Whether their rapid healing was 
to be attributed to that simple remedy, or to a good state of health, 
is a question. They closed up remarkably quickly, and in a few days 
I was able to move again. ^ 

Fonrth attempt in 1862. — The news of this accident brought Jean- 
Antoine Carrel up to Breuil, and along with the haughty chasseur 
came one of his relatives, a strong and able young fellow named 
Caesar. With these two men and Meynet I made another start on 
the 23rd of July. We got to the tent without any trouble, and on 
the following day had ascended beyond the Tower, and were pick- 
ing our way cautiously over the loose rocks behind (where my traces 

1 I received much attention from a kind English lady (Mrs. J. H. DanieU) who was 
staying- in the inn. 



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38 ZEBMATT AND THE MATTERHOBN. chap. ii. 

of the week before were well apparent) in lovely weather, when one 
of those abominable and almost instantaneous changes occurred, to 
which the Matterhom is so liable on its southern side. Mists were 
created out of invisible vapours, and in a few minutes snow fell 
heavily. We stopped, as this part was exceedingly difficult, and, 
unwilling to retreat, remained on the spot several hours, in hopes 
that another change would occur; but, as it did not, we at length 
went down to the base of the Great Tower, and commenced to 
make a third platform,^ at the height of 12,992 feet above the sea. 
It still continued to snow, and we took refuge in the tent. Carrel 
argued that the weather had broken up, and that the mountain 
would become so glazed with ice as to render any attempt futile ; 
and I, that the change was only temporary, and that the rocks were 
too hot to allow ice to form upon them. I wished to stay until the 
weather improved, but my leader would not endure contradiction, 
grew more positive, and insisted that we must go down. We went 
down, and when we got below the Col his opinion was found to be 
wrong ; the cloud was confined to the upper 3000 feet, and outside 
it there was brilliant weather. 

Carrel was not an easy man to manage. He was perfectly aware 
that he was the cock of the Val Toumanche, and he commanded 
the other men as by right. He was equally conscious that he was 
indispensable to me, and took no pains to conceal his knowledge of 
the fact. If he had been commanded, or if he had been entreated 
to stop, it would have been all the same. But, let me repeat, he 
was the only first-rate climber I could find who believed that the 
mountain was not inaccessible. With him I had hopes, but without 
him none ; so he was allowed to do as he would. His will on this 
occasion was almost incomprehensible. He certainly could not be 
charged with cowardice, for a bolder man could hardly be found ; 
nor was he turning away on account of difficulty, for nothing to 
which we had yet come seemed to be difficult to him; and his strong 
personal desire to make the ascent was evident. There was no 
occasion to come down on account of food, for we had taken, to 
guard against this very casualty, enough to last for a week ; and 
there was no danger, and little or no discomfort, in stopping in the 
tent. It seemed to me that he was spinning out the ascent for his 
own purposes, and that although he wished very much to be the 
first man on the top, and did not object to be accompanied by 
any one else who had the same wish, he had no intention of letting 
one succeed too soon, — perhaps to give a greater appearance of 6clat 
when the thing was accomplished. As he feared no rival, he may 
have supposed that the more difficulties he made the more valuable 
he would be estimated ; though, to do him justice, he never shewed 
any great hunger for money. His demands were fair, not excessive ; 
but he always stipulated for so much per day, and so, under any 
circumstances, he did not do badly. 

1 This was at the position occupied by the higher of the two cahaiies seen in the 
accompanying iUustration, which is from a photograph taken by myself in 1895. The 
upper hut is now in a precarious condition. The lower one was put up in 1893. 



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THE GREAT TOWER, WITH THE OLD AND NEW CABANE6. 



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40 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ii. 

Vexed at having my time thus frittered away, I was still well 
pleased when he volunteered to start again on the morrow, if it was 
line. We were to advance the tent to the foot of the Tower, to fix 
ropes in the most difficult parts beyond, and to make a push for 
the summit on the following day. 

Fifth attempt in 1862. — The next morning (Friday the 25th) when 
I arose, good little Meynet was ready and waiting, and he said that 
the two Carrels had gone off some time before, and had left word 
that they intended marmot-hunting, as the day was favourable for 
that sport. My holiday had nearly expired, and these men clearly 
could not be relied upon ; so, as a last resort, I proposed to the 
hunchback to accompany me alone, to see if we could not get higher 
than before, though of reaching the summit there was little or no 
hope. He did not hesitate, and in a few hours we stood — for the 
third time together — upon the Col du Lion. It was the first time 
Meynet had seen the view unclouded. The poor little deformed 
peasant gazed upon it silently and reverently for a time, and then, 
unconsciously, fell on one knee in an attitude of adoration, and 
clasped his hands, exclaiming in ecstasy, **0h, beautiful mountains!" 
His actions were as appropriate as his words were natural, and tears 
bore witness to the reality of his emotion. 

Our power was too limited to advance the tent, so we slept at the 
old station, and starting very early the next morning, passed the place 
where we had turned back on the 24th, and, subsequently, my highest 
point on the 19th. We found the crest of the ridge so treacherous 
that we took to the cliffs on the right, although most unwillingly. 
Little by little we fought our way up, but at length we were both 
spread-eagled on the all but perpendicular face, unable to advance, 
and barely able to descend. We returned to the ridge. It was almost 
equally difficult, and infinitely more unstable ; and at length, after 
having pushed our attempts as far as was prudent, I determined to 
return to Breuil, and to have a light ladder made to assist us to 
overcome some of the steepest parts. ^ I expected, too, that by this 
time Carrel would have had enough marmot-hunting, and would deign 
to accompany us again. 

We came down at a great pace, for we were now so familiar with 
the mountain, and with each other's wants, that we knew immediately 
when to give a helping hand, and when to let alone. The rocks also 
were in a better state than I had ever seen them, being almost entirely 
free from glaze of ice. Meynet was always merriest on the difficult 
parts, and, upon the most difficult, kept on enunciating the senti- 
ment, " We can only die once," a thought which seemed to aflford him 
infinite satisfaction. We arrived at the inn early in the evening, 
and I found my projects summarily and unexpectedly knocked on the 
head. 

1 This appeared to be the most difficult part of the mountain. One was driven to 
Iceep to the edge of the ridge, or very near to it ; and at the point where we turned 
back (which was almost as high as the highest part of the * cravate,' and perhaps 100 
feet higher than my scramble on the 19th) there were smooth walls seven or eight feet 
high in every direction, which were impassable to a single man, and which could only 
be surmounted by the assistance of ladders, or by using one's comrades as ladders. 



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CHAP. II. A CANNONADE. 41 

Dr. Tyndall tries again (1862).— Professor Tyndall had arrived 
while we were absent, and had engaged both Caesar and Jean-Antoine 
Carrel. Bennen was also with him, together with a powerful and active 
friend, a Valaisan guide, named Anton Walter. They had a ladder 
already prepared, provisions were being collected, and they intended 
to start on the following morning (Sunday). This new arrival took 
me by surprise. Bennen, it will be remembered, refused point-blank 
to take Professor Tyndall on the Matterhom in 1861. "He was dead 
against any attempt on the mountain," says Tyndall. He was now 
eager to set out. Professor Tyndall has not explained in what way 
this revolution came about in his guide. I was equally astonished at 
the faithlessness of Carrel, and attributed it to pique at our having 
presumed to do without him. It was useless to compete with the 
Professor and his four men, who were ready to start in a few hours, 
so I waited to see what would come of their attempt. 

Everything seemed to favour it, and they set out on a fine morning 
in high spirits, leaving me tormented with envy and all uncharitable- 
ness. If they succeeded, they carried off the prize for which I had 
been so long struggling ; and if they failed, there was no time to 
make another attempt, for I was due in a few days more in London. 
When this came home clearly to me, I resolved to leave Breuil at 
once, but, when packing up, found that some necessaries had been 
left behind in the tent. So I went off about mid-day to recover 
them ; caught the army of the Professor before it reached the Col, 
as they were going very slowly ; left them there (stopping to take 
food), and went on to the tent. I was near to it when all at once 
I heard a noise aloft, and, on looking up, perceived a stone of at 
least a foot cube flying straight at my head. [See illustration on p. 
42.] I ducked, and scrambled under the lee side of a friendly rock, 
while the missile went by with a loud buzz. It was the advanced 
guard of a perfect storm of stones, which descended with infernal 
clatter down the very edge of the ridge, leaving a trail of dust behind, 
with a strong smell of sulphur, that told who had sent them. The 
men below were on the look-out, but the stones did not come near 
them, and breaking away on one side descended to the glacier. 

I waited at the tent to welcome the Professor, and when he arrived 
went down to Breuil. Early next morning some one ran to me saying 
that a flag was seen on the summit of the Matterhom. It was not 
so, however, although I saw that they had passed the place where 
we had turned back on the 26th. I had now no doubt of their final 
success, for they had got beyond the point which Carrel, not less than 
myself, had always considered to be the most questionable place on 
the whole mountain. Up to it there was no choice of route. I suppose 
that at no one point between it and the Col was it possible to diverge 
a dozen paces to the right or left ; but beyond it it was otherwise, 
and we had always agreed, in our debates, that if it could be passed 
success was certain. The accompanying outline from a sketch taken 
from the door of the inn at Breuil will help to explain. The letter 
B indicates the position of the Great Tower ; c the * cravate ' (the 
strongly-marked streak of snow referred to on p. 40 which we just 



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A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN. 



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CHAP. II. 



'/r IS HORRIBLE! IMPOSSIBLE!' 



43 



failed to arrive at on the 26th) ; D the place where we now saw some- 
thing that looked like a flag. Behind the point D a nearly level ridge 
leads up to the foot of the final pieak. This will lie understood by a 
reference to the outline upon p. 44, where the same letters indicate 
the same places. It was just now said, we considered that if the 
point c could be passed, success was certain. Tyndall was at D very 
early in the morning, and I did not doubt that he would reach the 
summit, although it yet remained problematical whether he would be 
able to stand on the very highest point. The summit was evidently 




B. GREAT TOWER. C. CRAVATE. 
D. END OF THE SHOULDER. F. GREAT COULOIR. 

formed of a long ridge, on which there were two points nearly etiually 
elevated — so equally that one could not say which was the highest — 
and between the two there seehied to be a deep notch marked g on 
the outline, which might defeat one at the very last moment. 

My knapsack was packed, and I had drunk a parting glass of wine 
with Favre, who was jubilant at the success which was to make the 
fortune of his inn ; but I could not bring myself to leave until the 
result was heard, and lingered about, as a foolish lover hovers round 
the object of his affections, even after he has been contemptuously 
rejected. The sun had set before the men were descried coming over 
the pastures. There was no spring in their steps — they, too, were 
defeated. The Carrels hid their heads, and the others said, as men 
will do when they have been beaten, that the mountain was horrible, 
impossible, and so forth. Professor Tyndall told me they had arrived 



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44 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. ii. 



within a stone' 8 -throw of the summit, and admonished me to have 
nothing more to do with the mountain. I understood him to say- 
that he should not try again, and ran down to the village of VaJ 
Toumanche, almost inclined to believe that the mountain was in- 
accessible ; leaving the tent, ropes, and other matters in the hands 
of Favre, to be placed at the disposal of any person who wished 
to ascend it, more, I am afraid, out of irony than for generosity. 
There may have l>een those who believed that the Matterhom could 
be ascended, but, anyhow, their faith did not bring forth works. No 
one tried again in 1862. 



liTE DU LION 



DENT BLANCHE 




A. COL DU LION. E 
D. SHOULDER. 



. GREAT TOWER. C. CRAVATE. 
E. TYNDALL'8 FARTHEST. 



My seventh attempt to ascend the Matterhorn (1863).— In the 
spring of 1863, I heard the cause of the failure of Professor Tyndall, 
and learnt that the case was not so hopeless as it appeared to be at 
one time. I found that he arrived as far only as the northern end 
of *the shoulder.' The point at which, he says, they "sat down with 
broken liopes, the summit within a stone's - throw of us,^ but still 
defying ua," was not the notch or cleft at G (which is literally within 
a stone's- throw of the summit), but another and more formidable cleft 
that intervenes between the northern end of *the shoulder' and the 
commencement of the final peak. It is marked e on the accompanying 
outline. Carrel and all the men who had been with me knew of the 
existence of this cleft, and of the pinnacle which rose between it and 
the final peak ; and we had frequently talked about the best manner 
of passing the place. On this we disagreed, but we were both of 

1 It is not easy to understand how Dr. Tyndall and Bennen overlooked the existence 
of this cleft, for it is seen over several points of the compass, and particularly well from 
the southern side of the Thdodule pass. Still more difficult is it to explain how the 
Professor came to consider that he was only 'a stone's - throw ' from the summit; for, 
when he got to the end of 'the shoulder,' he must have been aware that the whole 
height of the final peak was still above him. 



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CHAP. II. ''IT IS TIME WE WERE TIED UP:' 45 

opinion that when we got to *the shoulder,* it would be necessary 
to bear down gradually to the right or to the left, to avoid coming 
to the top of the notch. Tyndall's party, after arriving at *the 
shoulder,' was led by his guides along the crest of the ridge, and, 
consequently, when they got to its northern end, they came to the 
top of the notch, instead of the bottom — to the dismay of all but 
the Carrels. Dr. Tyndall said "the mountain is 14,800 feet high, 
and 14,600 feet had been accomplished." He greatly deceived himself ; 
by the barometric measurements of Signor Giordano the notch is no 
less than 800 feet below the summit. 

I sauntered up the valley on July 31, and got to Breuil when all 
were asleep. A halo round the moon promised watery weather, and 
we were not disappointed, for, on the next day (August 1), rain fell 
heavily, and when the clouds lifted for a time, we saw that new 
snow lay thickly over everything higher than 9000 feet. J. -A. Carrel 
was ready and waiting (as I had determined to give the bold crags- 
man another chance) ; and he did not need to say that the Matterhom 
would be impracticable for several days after all this new snow, even 
if the weather were to arrange itself at once. Whilst waiting, we 
made the tour of the mountain, and returned to Breuil after the 
absence of six days. 

Carrel had carte blanche in the matter of guides, and his choice 
fell upon his relative Caesar, Luc Meynet, and two others whose names 
I do not know. These men were now brought together, and our 
preparations were completed, as the weather was clearing up. We 
rested on Sunday, August 9, eagerly watching the lessening of the 
mists around the great peak, and started just before dawn upon the 
10th, on a still and cloudless morning, which seemed to promise a 
happy termination to our enterprise. 

By going always, though gently, we arrived upon the Col du lion 
before nine o'clock. Changes were apparent. Familiar ledges had 
vanished ; the platform, whereupon my tent had stood, looked very 
forlorn, its stones had been scattered by wind and frost, and had 
half disappeared ; and the summit of the Col itself, which in 1862 
had always been respectably broad, and covered by snow, was now 
sharper than the ridge of any church roof, and was hard ice. Already 
we had found that the bad weather of the past week had done its 
work. The rocks for several hundred feet below the Col were 
varnished with ice. Loose, incoherent snow covered the older and 
harder beds below, and we nearly lost our leader through its 
treacherousness. He stepped on some snow which seemed firm, and 
raised his axe to deliver a swinging blow, but, just as it was highest, 
the crust of the slope upon which he stood broke away, and poured 
down in serpentine streams, leaving long, bare strips, which glittered 
in the sun, for they were glassy ice. Carrel, with admirable readiness, 
flung himself back on to the rock off which he had stepped, and 
was at once secured. He simply remarked, "It is time we were tied 
up," and, after we had been tied up, he went to work again as if 
nothing had happened. 

We had abundant illustrations during the next two hours of the 



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46 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHOBN, chap. ii. 

value of a rope to climbers. We were tied up rather widely apart, 
and advanced, generally, in pairs. Carrel, who led, was followed 
closely by another man, who lent him a shoulder or placed an axe- 
head under his feet, when there was need ; and when this couple 
were well placed the second pair advanced, in similar fashion, — the 
rope being drawn in by those above, and paid out gradually by those 
below. The leading men again advanced, or the third pair, and so 
on. This manner of progression was slow, but sure. One man only 
moved at a time, and if he slipped (and we frequently did slip) he 
could slide scarcely a foot without being checked by the others. 
The certainty and safety of the method gave confidence to the one 
who was moving, and not only nerved him to put out his powers to 
the utmost, but sustained nerve in really difficult situations. For 
these rocks (which, it has been already said, were easy enough under 
ordinary circumstances) were now difficult in a high degree. The 
snow-water which had trickled down for many days past in little 
streams, had taken, naturally, the very route by which we wished 
to ascend ; and, refrozen in the night, had glazed the slabs over 
which we had to pass, — sometimes with a fine film of ice as thin as 
a sheet of paper, and sometimes so thickly that we could almost 
cut footsteps in it. The weather was superb, the men made light of 
the toil, and shouted to rouse the echoes from the Dent d 'Kerens. 

We went on gaily, passed the second tent platform, the Chimney, 
and the other well-remembered points, and reckoned, confidently, on 
sleeping that night upon the top of ' the shoulder ' ; but, before we 
had well arrived at the foot of the Great Tower, a sudden rush of 
cold air warned us to look out. 

It was difficult to say where this air came from. It did not blow 
as a wind, but descended rather as the water in a shower-bath ! All 
was tranquil again ; the atmosphere shewed no signs of disturbance ; 
there was a dead calm, and not a speck of cloud to be seen any^vhere. 
But we did not remain very long in this state. The cold air came 
again, and this time it was difficult to say where it did not come 
from. We jammed down our hats as it beat against the ridge, and 
screamed amongst the crags. Before we had got to the foot of the 
Tower, mists had been formed above and below. They appeared at 
first in small, isolated patches (in several places at the same time), 
which danced and jerked and were torn into shreds by the wind, 
but grew larger under the process. They were united together, and 
rent again, — shewing us the blue sky for a moment, and blotting it 
out the next ; and augmented incessantly, until the whole heavens 
were filled with whirling, boiling clouds. Before we could take off 
our packs, and get under any kind of shelter, a hurricane of snow 
burst upon us from the east. It fell very heavily, and in a few 
minutes the ridge was covered by it. ' ' What shall we do ? " I 
shouted to Carrel. "Monsieur," said he, '*the wind is bad; the 
weather has changed ; we are heavily laden. Here is a fine gite ; let 
us stop ! If we go on we shall be half -frozen. That is my opinion." 
No one differed from him ; so we fell to work to make a place for 
the tent, and in a couple of hours completed the platform which we 



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CH. II. CAMP AT THE FOOT OF THE GREAT TOWER. 47 

had commenced in 1862. The clouds had blackened during that 
time, and we had hardly finished our task before a thunderstorm 
broke upon us with appalling fury. Forked lightning shot out at 
the turrets above, and at the crags below. It was so close that we 
quailed at its darts. It seemed to scorch us, — we were in the very 
focus of the storm. The thunder was simultaneous with the flashes ; 
short and sharp, and more like the noise of a door that is violently 
slammed, multiplied a thousand-fold, than any noise to which I can 
compare it. 

The wind during all this time seemed to blow tolerably con- 
sistently from the east. It smote the tent so vehemently (notwith- 
standing it was partly protected by rocks) that we had grave fears 
our refuge might be blown away bodily, with ourselves inside ; so, 
during some of the lulls, we issued out and built a wall to wind- 
ward. At half-past three the wind changed to the north-west, and 
the clouds vanished. We immediately took the opportunity to send 
down one of the porters (under protection of some of the others, a 
little beyond the Col du Lion), as the tent could not accommodate 
more than five persons. From this time to sunset the weather was 
variable. It was sometimes blowing and snowing hard, and some- 
times a dead calm. The bad weather was evidently confined to the 
Mont Cervin, for when the clouds lifted we could see everything that 
could be seen from our gite. Monte Viso, nearly a hundred miles off, 
was clear, and the sun set gorgeously behind the range of Mont Blanc. 
We passed the night comfortably — even luxuriously — in our blanket- 
bags, but there was little chance of sleeping, between the noise of 
the wind, of the thunder, and of the falling rocks. I forgave the 
thunder for the sake of the lightning. A more splendid spectacle than 
its illumination of the Matterhom crags I do not expect to see. 

We turned out at 3.30 A.M. on the 11th, and were dismayed to 
find that it still continued to snow. At 9 A.M. it ceased to fall, 
and the sun shewed itself feebly, so we packed up our baggage, 
and set out to try to get upon * the shoulder. ' We struggled up- 
wards until eleven o'clock, and then it commenced to snow again. 
We held a council ; the opinions expressed at it were unanimous 
against advancing, and I decided to retreat. For we had risen less 
than 300 feet in the past two hours, and had not even arrived at 
the rope which Tyndall's party left behind, attached to the rocks, 
in 1862. At the same rate of progression it would have taken 
us from four to five hours to get upon *the shoulder.' Not one of 
us cared to attempt to do so under the existing circumstances ; 
for besides having to move our own weight, which was sufficiently 
troublesome at this part of the ridge, we had to transport mucli 
heavy baggage, tent, blankets, and provisions, ladder, and 450 feet 
of rope, besides many other smaller matters. These, however, were 
not the most serious considerations. Supposing that we got upon 
* the shoulder,' we might find ourselves detained there several days, 
unable either to go up or down.^ I could not risk any such deten- 

1 Since then several persons have found themselves in this predicament for five or 
six consecutive days ! 



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48 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ii. 

tion, being under obligations to appear in London at the end of the 
week. 

We returned to Breuil in the course of the afternoon. It was 
quite fine there, and the tenants of the inn received our statements 
with evident scepticism. They were astonished to learn that we 
had been exposed to a snow-storm of twenty-six hours* duration. 
"Why," said Favre, the innkeeper, "tre have had no snow; it has 
been iine all the time you have been absent, and there has been 
only that small cloud upon the mountain." Ah ! that small cloud ! 
None except those who have had experience of it can tell what a 
formidable obstacle it is. 

I arrived at Chd,tillon at midnight on the 11th, defeated and dis- 
consolate ; but, like a gambler who loses each throw, only the more 
eager to have another try, to see if the luck would change; and re- 
turned to London ready to devise fresh combinations, and to form new 
plans. 

Abandonment of the South -West Ridge. — All of my attempts 
up to this time, as well as those made by the chasseurs of Val 
Toumanche, Mr. Hawkins, and Prof. Tyndall, had been made by 
way of the south-west ridge. Why abandon a route which had been 
shewn to be feasible up to a certain point? I gave it up for four 
reasons. 1. On account of a growing disinclination for arites, and 
preference for snow, or rock-faces. 2. Because I was persuaded that 
meteorological disturbances were likely to baffle us again and again 
on the southern side of the mountain. 3. Because I found that the 
east face was a gross imposition — it looked not far from perpendicular, 
while its angle was, in fact, scarcely more than 40**. 4. Because I 
observed for myself that the strata of the mountain dipped to the 
west-south-west. Let us consider, first, why most persons receive such 
an exaggerated impression of the steepness of the eastern face. 

When one looks at the Matterhom from Zermatt, the mountain 
is regarded (nearly) from the north-east. The face that fronts the 
east is consequently neither seen in profile nor in full front, but 
almost half-way between the two ; it looks, therefore, more steep 
than it really is. The majority of those who visit Zermatt go up 
to the Riffelberg, or to the Gomergrat, and from these places the 
mountain naturally looks still more precipitous, because its eastern 
face (which is almost all that is seen of it) is viewed more directly 
in front. From the Riffel hotel the slope seems to be set at an angle 
of 70°. If the tourist goes southwards, and crosses the Thdodule pass, 
he gets, at one point, immediately in front of the eastern face, which 
then seems to be absolutely perpendicular. Comparatively few persons 
correct the erroneous impressions they receive in these quarters by 
studying the face in profile, and most go away with a very incorrect 
and exaggerated idea of the precipitousness of this side of the moun- 
tain, because they have considered the question from one point of view 
alone. 

Several years passed away before I shook myself clear of my 
early and false impressions regarding the steepness of this side of 
the Matterhom. First of all, I noticed that there were places on 



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CH. II. ABANDONMENT OF THE SOUTH-WEST BIDGE, 



49 



this eastern face where snow remained permanently all the year 
round. I do not speak of snow in gullies, but of considerable slopes 
which are about half-way up the face. Such beds as these could not 
continue to remain throughout the summer, unless the snow had been 
able to accumulate in the winter in large masses ; and snow cannot 
accumulate and remain in large masses, in a situation such as this, 
at angles much exceeding 45". Hence I was bound to conclude that 
the eastern face was many degrees removed from perpendicularity ; 
and, to be sure on this point, I went to the slopes between the 
Z'Muttgletscher and the Matterhomgletscher, above the chd,lets of 
Staffel, whence the face could be seen in profile. Its appearance 
from this direction is amazing to those who have seen it only from 
the east. It looks so totally different from the apparently sheer 
and perfectly unclimbable cliff one sees from the Riffelberg, that it is 
hard to believe the two slopes are one and the same thing. Its angle 
scarcely exceeds 40**. 

A step was made when this was learnt. This knowledge alone 
would not, however, have caused me to try an ascent by the eastern 
face instead of by the south-west ridge. Forty degrees may not seem 
a formidable inclination, nor is it for only a small cliff. But it is 
very unusual to find so steep a gradient maintained continuously as 
the general angle of a great mountain-slope, and very few instances 
can be quoted from the High Alps of such an angle being preserved 
over a rise of 3000 feet. 

I do not think that the steepness or the height of this cliff would 
have deterred climbers from attempting to 
ascend it, if it had not, in addition, looked 
so repulsively smooth. Men despaired of 
finding anything to grasp. Now, some of 
the difiiculties of the south-west ridge came 
from the smoothness of the rocks, although 
that ridge, even from a distance, seemed to 
be well broken up. How much greater, 
then, might not have been the difficulty of 
climbing a face which looked smooth and 
unbroken close at hand? 

A more serious hindrance to mounting 
the south-west ridge is found in the dip of 
its rocks to the west-south-west. The great 
mass of the Matterhorn, it is now well ascer- 
tained, is composed of regularly stratified 
rocks,^ which rise towards the east. It has 
been mentioned, more than once, that the 
rocks on some portions of the ridge leading 
from the Col du Lion towards the summit 
dip outwards, and that fractured edges over- 
hang. This is shewn in the annexed diagram. Fig. A. It will be 
readily understood that such an arrangement is not favourable for 
climbers, and that the degree of facility with which rocks can be ascended 

1 Upon this subject see the note by Signor F. Giordano in the Appendix. 

£ 




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50 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ii. 

that are so disposed, must depend very much upon the frequency or 
paucity of fissures and joints. The rocks of the south-west ridge 
are sufficiently provided with cracks, but if it were otherwise, their 
texture and arrangement would render them imassailable. 

It is not iK)ssible to go a single time u[)on the rocks of the south- 
west ridge, from the Col du Lion to the foot of the Great Tower, 
without observing the prevalence of their outward dip, and that their 
fractured edges have a tendency to overhang; nor can one fail to 
notice it is upon this account that most of the debris, which is rent 
oflf by frost, does not remain in sitUy but pours down in showers over 
the surrounding cliffs. 

The fact that the mountain is composed of a series of stratified 
beds was pointed out long ago. De Saussure remarked it, and re- 
corded explicitly, in his Travels (§ 2243), that they **rose to the 
north-east at an angle of about 45°." Forbes noticed it also ; and 
gave it as his opinion that the beds were "less inclined, or nearly 
horizontal." He added, ** De Saussure is no doubt correct." The 
truth, I think, lies between the two. 

I was acquainted with both of the above-quoted passages, but did 
not turn the knowledge to any practical account until I re-observed 
the same fact for myself. It was not until after my repulse in 1863, 
that I referred the peculiar difficulties of the south-west ridge to the 
dip of the strata ; but when once persuaded that structure and not 
texture was the real impediment, it was reasonable to infer that the 
opposite side, that is to say the eastern face, might be comparatively 
easy. In brief, that an arrangement should be found like Fig. b, 
instead of like Fig. a. This trivial deduction was the key to the 
ascent of the Matterhorn. 

The point was, Did the strata continue with a similar dip tlurough- 
out the mountain? If they did, then the great eastern face, instead 
of being hopelessly impracticable, should be quite the reverse. In 
fact, it would be a great natural staircase, with steps inclining in- 
wards ; and, if it were so, its smooth aspect might be of no account, 
for the smallest steps, inclined in this fashion, afford good footing. 

In June, 1865, when descending the Z'Muttgletscher, I brought these 
facts to the notice of my guides, Michel Croz, Christian Aimer, and 
Franz Bijener ; but, although they readily admitted that they had been 
deceived as to the steepness of the eastern face, they were fai* from 
l)eing satisfied that the slope would be easy to climb, and the two 
latter were averse to making an attempt upon it. I yielded to their 
reluctance, and went to examine an alternative route by a great gully ^ 
which leads from the Glacier du Mont Cervin to a point high up on 
the south-eastern ridge. We found that this gully was afflicted by 
falling rocks,2 and unanimously agreed that it was not a suitable route. 
My renewed proposition to attack the eastern face did not find favour. 

The men clustered together, and advocated leaving the mountain alone. 
Aimer asked, with more point than politeness, **Why don't you try to ^o up 
a moimtain which can be ascended?" *'It is impossible," chimed in Biener. 

1 Marked F on the Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers, and on the outline upon 
p. 43. 2 See Scratnbles amongst the Alps^ chap. xv. 



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CHAP. II. ''ANYTHING BUT MATTERHORN ! '' 51 

"Sir," said Croz, "if we cross to the other side we shall lose three days, and 
very likely shall not succeed. You want to make ascents in the chain of Mont 
Blanc, and I believe they can be made. But I shall not be able to make them 
with you if I spend these days here, for I must be at Chamonix on the 27th." 
There was force in what he said, and his words made me hesitate. I relied 
upon his strong arms for some work which it was expected would be unusually 
difficult. Snow began to fall ; that settled the matter, and I gave the word 
to retreat. We went back to Breuil, and on to the village of Val Toumanche, 
where. we slept; and the next day proceeded to Ch^tillon, and thence up the 
Valley of Aosta to CJourmayeur. 

I cannot but regret that the counsels of the guides prevailed. If 
Croz had not uttered his well-intentioned words, he might still have 
been living. He parted from us at Chamonix at the appointed time, 
but by a strange chance we met again at Zermatt three weeks later, 
and two days afterwards he perished before my eyes on the very 
mountain from which we turned away, at his advice, on the 21st of 
June. 

On the 7th of July, 1865,^ I crossed the Va Com^re pass, in com- 
pany with Christian Aimer and Franz Biener, en route for Breuil. 
My thoughts were fixed on the Matterhom, and my guides knew 
that I wished them to accompany me. They had an aversion to the 
mountain, and repeatedly expressed their belief that it was useless 
to try to ascend it. ''Anything but Matterhorn, dear sir!" said 
Aimer; "anything but Matterhom." He did not speak of difficulty 
or of danger, nor was he shirking work. He oflfered to go anywhere; 
but he entreated that the Matterhorn should be abandoned. Both 
men spoke fairly enough. They did not think that an ascent could 
be made ; and for their own credit, as well as for my sake, they did 
not wish to undertake a business which, in their opinion, would only 
lead to loss of time and money. 

I sent them on to Breuil, and walked down to Val Toumanche to 
look for Jean-Antoine Carrel. He was not there. The villagers said 
that he, and three others, had started on the 6th to try the Matter- 
hom by the old way, on their own account. They will have no 
luck, I thought, for the clouds were low down on the mountains ; 
and I walked up to Breuil, fully expecting to meet them. Nor was 
I disappointed. About half-way up I saw a group of men clustered 
around a ch&let upon the other side of the torrent, and, crossing 
over, found that the party had returned. Jean-Antoine and Csesar 
were there, C. E. Gorret, and J.- J. Maquignaz. They had had no 
success. The weather, they said, had been horrible, and they had 
scarcely reached the Glacier du Lion. 

I explained the situation to Carrel, and proposed that we, with 
Coesar and another man, should cross the Th^odule by moonlight on 
the 9th, and that upon the 10th we should pitch the tent as high 
as possible upon the east face. He was unwilling to abandon the 
old route, and urged me to try it again. I promised to do so pro- 
vided the new route failed. This satisfied him, and he agreed to my 

1 Having in the interim ascended the Qrandes Jorasses and crossed the Col Dolent 
with Croz, Aimer and Biener ; and ascended the AiguiUe Verte and the Ruinette, and 
crossed the Ool de Taldfre with Aimer and Biener only. See Scrambles amongst the 
Alps, chaps, xvi-xx. 



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52 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ii. 

proposal. I then went up to Breuil, and discharged Aimer and Biener 
— with much regret, for no two men ever served me more faithfully 
or more willingly. On the next day they crossed to Zermatt. 

The 8th was occupied with preparations. The weather was stormy ; 
and black, rainy vapours obscured the mountains. Towards evening 
a young man came from Val Toumanche, and reported that an 
Englishman was lying there, extremely ill ; and on the morning of 
Sunday the 9th I went down the valley to look after the sick man. 
On my way I passed a foreign gentleman, with a mule and several 
porters laden with baggage. Amongst these men were Jean-Antoine 
and Caesar, carrying some barometers. "Hullo!" I said, **what are 
you doing?" They explained that the foreigner had arrived just as 
they were setting out, and that they were assisting his porters. 
**Very well; go on to Breuil, and await me there; we start at mid- 
night as agreed." Jean-Antoine then said that he should not be 
able to serve me after Tuesday the 11th, as he was engaged to 
travel ** with a family of distinction " in the valley of Aosta. " And 
Caesar?" "And Caesar also." "Why did you not say this before?" 
"Because," said he, "it was not settled. The engagement is of 
long standing, but the day was not fixed. When I got back to Val 
Toumanche on Friday night, after leaving you, I found a letter 
naming the day." I could not object to the answer ; still the prospect 
of ]>eing left guideless was provoking. They went up, and I down, 
the valley. 

The sick man declared that he was better, though the exertion of 
saying as much tumbled him over on to the floor in a fainting fit. 
He was badly in want of medicine, and I tramped down to Ch^tillon 
to get it. It was late before I returned to Val Toumanche, for the 
weather was tempestuous, and rain fell in torrents. A figure passed 
me under the church -porch. ^^ Qui vive?" "Jean-Antoine." "I 
thought you were at Breuil." "No, sir: when the storms came on 
I knew we should not start to-night, and so came down to sleep 
here." "Ha, Carrel!" I said; "this is a great bore. If to-morrow 
is not fine we shall not be able to do anything together. I have 
sent away my guides, relying on you ; and now you are going to 
leave me to travel with a party of ladies. That work is not fit for 
you (he smiled, I supposed at the implied compliment) ; can't you 
send some one else instead?" "No, monsieur. I am sorry, but my 
word is pledged. I should like to accompany you, but I can't break my 
engagement." By this time we had arrived at the inn door. "Well, 
it is no fault of yours. Come presently with Caesar, and have some 
wine." They came, and we sat up till midnight, recounting our old 
adventures, in the inn of Val Toumanche. 

The weather continued bad upon the 10th, and I returned to Breuil. 
The two Carrels were again hovering about the above-mentioned ch&let, 
and I bade them adieu. In the evening the sick man crawled up, a 
good deal better ; but his was the only arrival. The Monday crowd ^ 
did not cross the Th6odule, on account of the continued storms. The 

1 Tourists congregate at Zermatt upon Sundays, and large gangs and droves usually 
cross the Th^odme pass on Mondays. 



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CHAP. n. BAMBOOZLED AND HUMBUGGED. 53 

inn was lonely. I went to bed early, and was awoke the next morning 
by the invalid inquiring if I had *• heard the news." **No; what 
news?" "Why," said he, "a large party of guides went off this 
morning to try the Matterhom, taking with them a mule laden with 
provisions." 

I went to the door, and with a telescope saw the party upon the 
lower slopes of the mountain. Favre, the landlord, stood by. ** What 
is all this about?" I inquired, "Who is the leader of tliis party?" 
** Carrel." " What ! Jean-Antoine ? " " Yes ; Jean-Antoine." " Is 
Csesar there too?" "Yes, he is there." Then I saw in a moment 
that I had been bamboozled and humbugged ; and learned, bit by bit, 
that the affair had been arranged long beforehand. The start on 
the 6th had been for a preliminary reconnaissance ; the mule, that I 
passed, was conveying stores for the attack ; the ' family of distinc- 
tion ' was Signor F. Giordano, who had just despatched the party to 
facilitate the way to the summit, and who, when the facilitation was 
completed, was to be taken to the top along with Signor Sella ! ^ 

I was greatly mortified. My plans were upset ; the Italians had 
clearly stolen a march upon me, and I saw that tlie astute Favre 
chuckled over my discomfiture, because the route by the eastern face, 
if successful, would not benefit his inn. What was to be done ? I 
retired to my room, and soothed by tobacco, re-studied my plans, to 
see if it was not possible to outmanoeuvre the Italians. " They have 
taken a mule's load of provisions." " That is one point in my favour, 
for they will take two or three days to get through the food, and, 
until that is done, no work will be accomplished." "How is the 
weather?" I went to the window. The mountain was smothered 
up in mist. "Another point in my favour." "They are to facilitate 
the way. Well, if they do that to any purpose, it will be a long 
job." Altogether, I reckoned that they could not possibly ascend 
the mountain and come back to Breuil in less than seven days. I 
got cooler, for it was evident that the wily ones might be outwitted 
after all. There was time enough to go to Zermatt, to try the 
eastern face, and, should it prove impracticable, to come back to 
Breuil before the men returned ; and then, it seemed to me, as the 
mountain was not padlocked, one might start at the same time as 
the Messieurs, and yet get to the top before them. 

The first thing to do was to go to Zermatt. Easier said than done. 
The seven men upon the mountain included the ablest mountaineers 
in the valley, and none of the ordinary muleteer -guides were at 
Breuil, Two men, at least, were wanted for my baggage, but not a 
soul could be found. I ran about, and sent about in all directions, 
but not a single porter could be obtained. One was with Carrel ; 
another was ill ; another was at Ch^tillon, and so forth. This, how- 
ever, did not much trouble me, for it was evident that so long as 
the weather stopped traffic over the Theodule, it would hinder the 
men equally upon the Matterhom ; and I knew that directly it im- 
proved company would certainly arrive. 

1 The Italian Minister. Signor Giordano had undertaken the business arrangements 
for Signor Sella. 



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54 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. ii. 

About mid-day on Tuesday the 11th a large party hove in sight 
from Zermatt, preceded by a nimble young Englishman, and one of 
old Peter Taugwalder's sons.^ I went at once to this gentleman to 
learn if he could dispense with Taugwalder. He said that he could 
not, as they were going to recross to Zermatt on the morrow, but 
that the young man should assist in transporting my baggage, as he 
had nothing to carry. We naturally got into conversation. I told 
my story, and learned that the young Englishman was Lord Francis 
Douglas,^ whose recent exploit — the ascent of the (Tabelhorn — had 
excited my admiration. He brought good news. Old Peter had 




LORD FRANCIS DOUGLAS. 



lately been beyond the Hornli, and had reported that he thought 
an ascent of the Matterhorn was possible upon that side. Aimer 
had left Zermatt, and could not be recovered, so I determined to 
seek for old Peter. Lord Francis Douglas expressed a warm desire 
to ascend the mountain, and before long it was determined that he 
should take part in the expedition. 

Favre could no longer hinder our departure, and lent us one of 
his men. We crossed the Col Theodule on Wednesday morning the 
12th of July, rounded the foot of the Ober Theodulgletscher, tra- 
versed the Furggengletscher, and deposited tent, blankets, roi>es, 

1 Peter Taugwalder, the father, was called old Peter, to distinguish him from his 
eldest son, yomi^ Peter. In 1865 the father's age was about 45. 

2 Brother of the present Marquis of Queensberry. An account of his ascent of the 
Gabelhorn, on July 7, 1865 (the first made on the Zinal side), was found after his death 
amongst his papers, and was published in the Alpine Jowiial, vol. ii, pp. 221-2. 



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CHAP. II. 



RENCONTRE WITH MICHEL CROZ. 



55 



and other matters in the little chapel at the Lac Noir.^ All four 
were heavily laden, for we brought across the whole of my stores from 
Breuil: Of rope alone there was about 600 feet. There were three 
kinds. First, 200 feet of Mr. Buckingham's Manilla rope ; second, 
150 feet of a stouter, and possibly stronger rope than the first; and 
third, more than 200 feet of a lighter and weaker rope than the first, 
of a kind that I used formerly (stout sash-line). 

We descended to Zermatt, sought and engaged old Peter, and 
gave him permission to choose another guide. When we returned 




CHAPEL AT THE LAC NOIR (1865). 



to the Monte Rosa Hotel, whom should we see sitting upon the 
wall in front but my old guide chef, Michel Croz. I supposed that 

he had come with Mr. B , but I learned that that gentleman 

had arrived in ill-health, at Chamonix, and had returned to England. 
Croz, thus left free, had been immediately engaged by the Rev. 
Charles Hudson, and they had come to Zermatt with the same object 
as ourselves — namely, to attempt the ascent of the Matterhorn ! 

Lord Francis Douglas and I dined at the Monte Rosa Hotel, and 
had just finished when Mr. Hudson and a friend entered the salle d 
manger. They had returned from inspecting the mountain, and some 
idlers in the room demanded their intentions. We heard a confirma- 



1 For route, and the others mentioned in the subsequent chapters, 
the Matterhorn and its Glaciers. 



the Map of 



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56 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTEEHOBN, 



CHAP. II. 



tion of Croz's statement, and learned that Mr. Hudson intended to 
set out on the morrow at the same hour as ourselves. We left the 
room to consult, and agreed it was undesirable that two independent 
parties should be on the mountain at the same time with the same 
object. Mr. Hudson was therefore invited to join us, and he accepted 
our proposal. Before admitting his friend — Mr. Hadow — I took the 
precaution to inquire what he had done in the Alps, and, as well as 
I remember, Mr. Hudson's reply was, " Mr. Hadow has done Mont 
Blanc in less time than most men. " ^ He then mentioned several 
other excursions that were unknown to me, and added, in answer to 
a further question, *• I consider he is a sufficiently good man to go 
with us." Mr. Hadow was admitted, and we then went into the matter 
of guides. Hudson thought that Croz and old Peter would be sufficient. 
The question was referred to the men themselves, and they made no 
objection. 

1 In the Alpine Journal, vol. iii, pp. 75-76, Mr. T. S. Kennedy, in speaking of this 
ascent (which was I believe made upon the 7th of July, 1865), says that Mr. Hadow 
went from the Orands Mulets to the summit of Mont Blanc in less than four hours 
and a half, and descended from the summit to Chamonix in five hours. 




A STORE-HOUSE. 



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CHAPTER III. 

THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.i 

CHARLES HUDSON — CAMP ON THE EAST FACE — CROZ REPORTS FAVOUR- 
ABLY — ASCENT OF THE EAST FACE — CROSS TO THE NORTHERN 
SIDE — ARRIVAL AT SUMMIT — DISCOMFITURE OF THE ITALIANS — 
ASTONISHMENT AT BREUIL— MARVELLOUS PANORAMA. 

We started from Zermatt on the 13th of July 1865, at half -past 5, 
on a brilliant and perfectly cloudless morning. We were eight in 
number — Croz, old Peter and his two sons,^ Lord F. Douglas, Hadow, 
Hudson,^ and I. To ensure steady motion, one tourist and one 
native walked together. The youngest Taugwalder fell to my share, 
and the lad marched weU, proud to be on the expedition, and happy 
to shew his powers. The wine-bags also fell to my lot to carry, and 
throughout the day, after each drink, I replenished them secretly with 
water, so that at the next halt they were found fuUer than before ! 
This was considered a good omen, and little short of miraculous. 

On the first day we did not intend to ascend to any great height, 
and we mounted, accordingly, very leisurely; picked up the things 
which were left in the chapel at the Schwarzsee at 8.20, and proceeded 
thence along the ridge connecting the Hornli with tlie Matterhorn.* 
At half -past 1 1 we arrived at the base of tlie actual peak ; then 
quitted the ridge, ^nd clambered to the left round some ledges, on 
fco the eastern face. We were now fairly upon the mountain, and 
were astonished to find that places which from the Riffel, or even 
from the Furggengletscher, looked entirely impracticable, were so easy 
that we could run about. 

1 Reprinted from the Fourth Edition of Scrambles amongst the Alps. 

2 The two young Taug^^alders were taken as jwrters, by desire of their father, and 
carried provisions amply sufllcient for three days, in case the ascent should prove more 
troublesome than we anticipated. 

3 Oharles Hudson, Vicar of Skillington in Lincolnshire, was considered by the 
mountaineering fraternity to be the best amateur of his time. He was the or^niser 
and leader of the party of Englishmen who ascended Mont Blanc by the Aiguille du 
Oodter, and descended by the Qrands Mulets route, without guides, in 1855. His long 
practice made him surefooted, and in that respect he was not greatly inferior to a bom 
mountaineer. His pupil Mr. Hadow was a young man of nineteen, who had the looks 
and manners of a greater age. He was a rapid walker, but 1866 was his first season 
in the Alps. Lora Francis Douglas was about the same age as Mr. Hadow. He had 
had the advantage of several seasons in the Alps. He was nimble as a deer, and was 
becoming an expert mountaineer. Just before cur meeting he had ascended the Ober 
Oabelhom (with old Peter Taugwalder and Jos. Viennin). 

4 Arrived at the chapel 7.30 a.m. ; left it 8.20 ; halted to examine route 9.30 ; started 
again 10.26, and arrivea at 11.20 at the cairn made by Mr. Kennedy in 1862 (see p. 27), 
marked 3298 metres upon the map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers. (This cairn has 
now disappeared.) Stopped 10 min. here. From the Homli to this point we kept, 
when possible, to the crest of the ridge. The greater part of the way was excessively 
easy, but there were a few places where the axe had to be used. 



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58 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. hi. 



Before twelve o'clock we had found a good position for the tent, 
at a height of 11,000 feet.^ Croz and young Peter went on to see 
what was above, in order to save time on the following morning. 
They cut across the heads of the snow-slopes which descended towards 
the Furggengletscher, and disappeared round a comer ; but shortly 
afterwards we saw them liigh up on the face, moving quickly. We 
others made a solid platform for the tent in a well-protected spot, and 
then watched eagerly for the return of the men. The stones which 
they upset told us that they were very high, and we supposed that 
the way must be easy. At length, just before 3 p.m., we saw them 
coming down, evidently much excited. "What are they saying, 




REV. CHARLES HUDSON. 

Peter?" "Gentlemen, they say it is no good." But when they came 
near we heard a different story. '* Nothing but what was goo<l ; not a 
difficulty, not a single difficulty ! We could have gone to the summit 
and returned to-day easily ! " 

We passed the remaining hours of daylight — some basking in the 
sunshine, some sketching or collecting ; and when the sun went down, 
giving, as it departed, a glorious promise for the morrow, we retume<l 
to the tent to arrange for the night. Hudson made tea, I coffee, and 
we then retired each one to his blanket bag; the Taugwalders, Lord 
Francis Douglas, and myself, occupying the tent, the others remain- 

1 Thus far the guides did not once go to the front. Hudson or I led, and when any 
cutting was- required we did it ourselves. This was done to spare the guides, and to 
shew them that we were in earnest. The spot at which we camped was four hours' 
walking from Zermatt, and is marked upon the map — camp (1866). It was just upon a 
level with the Furggengrat, and its position is indicated upon the engra>ing on p. 20 
by a little circular white spot, in a Ime with the word camp. 



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CHAP. III. ''SOMETHING ALTOGETHER DIFFERENT:' 59 

ing, by preference, outside. Long after dusk the cliffs above echoed 
with our laughter and with the songs of the guides, for we were 
happy that night in camp, and feared no evil. 

We assembled together outside the tent before dawn on the 
morning of the 14th, and started directly it was light enough to 
move. Young Peter came on with us as a guide, and his brother 
returned to Zermatt.^ We followed the route which had been taken 
on the previous day, atid in a few minutes turned the rib which had 
intercepted the view of the eastern face from our tent platform. The 
whole of this great slope was now revealed, rising for 3000 feet like 
a huge natural staircase. Some parts were more, and others were 
less, easy ; but we were not once brought to a halt by any serious 
impediment, for when an obstruction was met in front it could always 
be turned to the right or to the left. For the greater part of the 
way there was, indeed, no occasion for the rope, and sometimes Hudson 
led, sometimes myself. At 6.20 we had attained a height of 12,800 
feet, and halted for half -an -hour; we then continued the ascent 
without a break until 9.55, when we stopped for fifty minutes at a 
height of 14,000 feet. Twice we struck the N.E. ridge and followed 
it for some little distance,^ — to no advantage, for it was usually more 
rotten and steep, and always more difficult than the face. Still, we 
kept near to it, lest stones perchance might fall.^ 

We had now arrived at the foot of that part which, from the 
RifFelberg or from Zermatt, seems perpendicular or overhanging, and 
could no longer continue upon the eastern side. For a little distance 
we ascended by snow upon the ardte * — that is, the crest of the ridge — 
descending towards Zermatt, and then, by common consent, turned over 
to tlie right, or to the northern side. Before doing so we made a change 
in the order of ascent. Croz went first, I followed, Hudson came third ; 
Hadow and old Peter were last. " Now," said Croz, as he led off, 
"now for something altogether different." The work became difficult 
and required caution. In some places there was little to hold, and 
it was desirable that those should be in front who were least likely 
to slip. The general slope of the mountain at this part was less than 
40°, and snow had accumulated in, and had filled up, the interstices 
of the rock face, leaving only occasional fragments projecting here 

1 It was ori|finally intended to leave both of the young men behind. We found it 
difficult to divide the food, and so the new arrangement was made. 

2 For track, see the outline upon p. 69. 

3 Very few stones fell during the two days I was on the mountain, and none came 
near us. Others who have followed the same route have not been so fortunate ; they 
may not, perhaps, have taken the same precautions. It is a noteworthj-^ fact, that the 
lateral moraine of the left bank of the Furggengletscher is scarcely larger than that of 
the right bank, although the former receives all the debris that falls from the 4000 feet 
of cliffs which form the eastern side of the Matterhom, whilst the latter is fed by 
perfectly insignificant slopes. Neither of these moraines is large. This is strong evidence 
that stones do not fall to any great extent from the eastern face. The inward dip of 
the beds retains the detritus m plac^. Hence the eastern face appears, when one is 
upon it, to be undergoing more rapid disintegration than the other sides : in reality, 
the mantle of ruin spares the mountain from farther waste. Upon the southern side, 
rocks fall as they are rent off; "each day's work is cleared away" every day; and 
hence the faces and ridges are left naked, and are exposed to fresh attacks. 

4 The snow seen in the engraving upon p. 20, half-an-inch below the summit, and a 
little to its right. It is now called 'the Shoulder.' 



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60 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. hi. 

and there. These were at times covered with a thin film of ice, 
produced from the melting and refreezing of the snow. It was a 
place over which any fair mountaineer might pass in safety, and Mr. 
Hudson ascended this part, and, so far as I know, the entire mount- 
ain, without having the slightest assistance rendered to liim upon 
any occasion. Sometimes, after I had taken a hand from Croz, or 
received a pull, I turned to offer the same to Hudson ; but he in- 
variably declined, saying it was not necessary. Mr. Hadow, however, 
was not accustomed to this kind of work, and required continual 
assistance. It is only fair to say that the difficulty which he found 
at this part arose simply and entirely from want of experience. 

This solitary difficult part was of no great extent. ^ We bore away 
over it at first, nearly horizontally, for a distance of about 400 feet ; 
then ascended directly towards the summit for about 60 feet ; and then 
doubled back to the ridge which descends towards Zermatt. A long 
stride round a rather awkward comer brought us to snow once more. 
The last doubt vanished ! The Matterhorn was ours ! Nothing but 
200 feet of easy snow remained to be surmounted ! 

You must now carry your thoughts back to the seven Italians w ho 
started from Breuil on the 11th of July. Four days had passed since 
their departure, and we were tormented with anxiety lest they should 
arrive on the top before us. All the way up we had talked of them, 
and many false alarms of ** men on the summit " had been raised. The 
higher we rose, the more intense became the excitement. What if we 
should be beaten at the last moment? The slope eased off, at length 
we could be detached, and Croz and I, dashing away, ran a neck-and- 
neck race, which ended in a dead heat. At 1.40 P.M. the world was 
at our feet, and the Matterhorn was conquered. Hurrah ! Not a 
footstep could be seen. 

It was not yet certain that we had not been beaten. The summit of 
the Matterhorn was formed of a rudely level ridge, about 350 feet 
long, 2 and the Italians might have been at its farthest extremity. I 
hastened to the southern end, scanning the snow right and left eagerly. 
Hurrah! again; it was untrodden. *• Where were the men?" I 
peered over the cliff, half doubting, half expectant, and saw them im- 
mediately — mere dots on the ridge, at a great distance below. Up 
went my arms and my hat. •* Croz ! Croz ! ! come here ! " " Where 
are they. Monsieur?" "There, don't you see them, down there?" 
" Ah ! the coquinSj they are low down." " Croz, we must make those 
fellows hear us." We yelled until we were hoarse. The Italians 
seemed to regard us — we could not be certain. " Croz, we must make 
them hear us ; they shall hear us ! " I seized a block of rock and 
hurled it down, and called upon my companion, in the name of friend- 

1 I have no memorandum of the time that it occupied. It must have taken about 
an hour and a half. 

2 The highest points are towards the two ends. In 1865 the northern end was 
slightly higher than the southern one. In bygone years Carrel and I often suggested to 
each other that we might one day arrive upon the top, and find ourselves cut off from 
the very highest point by a notch in the summit-ridge which is seen from the Th^odule 
and from Breuil (marked G on the outline on p. 43). This notch is very conspicuous 
from below, but when one is actually upon the sunmiit it is hardly noticed, and it can 
be passed without the least difficulty. 



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CHAP. III. DISCOMFITURE OF THE ITALIANS. 61 

ship, to do the same. We drove our sticks in, and prized away the 
crags, and soon a torrent of stones poured down the cliffs. There 
was no mistake about it this time. The Italians turned and fled.^ 

The others had arrived, so we went back to the northern end of 
the ridge. Croz now took the tent-pole,^ and planted it in the highest 
snow. "Yes," we said, "there is the flag-staff, but where is the 
flag?" "Here it is," he answered, pulling off his blouse and fixing 
it to the stick. It made a poor flag, and there was no wind to float 
it out, yet it was seen all around. They saw it at Zermatt — at the 
Riffel — in the Val Toumanche. At Breuil, the watchers cried, 
" Victory is ours ! " They raised * bravos ' for Carrel, and * vivas * for 
Italy, and hastened to put themselves en fete. On the morrow they 
were undeceived. "All was changed; the explorers returned sad — 
cast down — disheartened — confounded — gloomy." "It is true," said 
the men. "We saw them ourselves — ^they hurled stones at us ! The 
old traditions are true, — there are spirits on the top of the Matter- 
horn !"3 

We returned to the southern end of the ridge to build a cairn, 
and then paid homage to the view.* The day was one of those 
superlatively calm and clear ones which usually precede bad weather. 
The atmosphere was perfectly still, and free from all clouds or 
vapours. Mountains fifty — nay a hundred — mUes off, looked sharp 
and near. All their details — ridge and crag, snow and glacier — stood 
out with faultless definition. Pleasant thoughts of happy days in 
bygone years came up unbidden, as we recognised the old, familiar 
forms. All were revealed — not one of the principal peaks of the 
Alps was hidden. I see them clearly now — the great inner circles of 

1 I learnt afterwards from J. -A. Carrel that they heard our first cries. They were 
then upon the south-west ridge, close to the ' Cravate,' and twelve hundred arid jifty 
feet below us ; or, as the crow flies, at a distance of about one-third of a mile. 

2 At our departure the men were confident that the ascent would be made, and took 
one of the poles out of the tent. I protested that it was tempting Providence ; they 
took the pole nevertheless. 

8 Signer Giordano was naturally disappointed at the result, and wished the men to 
start again. They all re/tised to do so, with the exception of Jean-Antoine. Upon 
the 16th of July he set out again with three others, and upon the l7th gained the 
summit by passmg (at first) up the south-west ridge, and (afterwards) by turning over 
to the Z'Mutt, or north-western side. On the 18th he returned to Breuil. 

Whilst we were upon the southern end of the summit-ridge, we paid some attention 
to the portion of the mountain which intervened between ourselves and the Italian 
guides. It seemed as if there would not be the least chance for them if they should 
attempt to storm the final peak directly from the end of the 'shoulder.' In that 
direction cliffs fell sheer down from the summit, and we were unable to see beyond a 
certain distance. There remained the route about which Carrel and I had often talked, 
namely, to ascend directly at first from the end of the 'shoulder,' and afterwards to 
swerve to the left— that is, to the Z'Mutt side— and to complete the ascent from the 
north-west. When we were upon the summit we laughed at this idea. Nevertheless, 
the summit was reached by that route by the undaunted Carrel. From knowing the 
final slope over which he passed, and from the account of Mr. F. C. Grove— who until 
1895 was the only traveller by whom it had been traversed— I do not hesitate to term 
the ascent of Carrel and Bich in 1865 the most desperate piece of mountain-scrambling 
upon record. In 1869 I asked Carrel if he had ever done anything more difficult. His 
reply was, " Man cannot do anything much more difficult than that ! " 

* The summit-ridge was much shattered, although not so extensively as the south- 
west and north-east ridges. The highest rock, in 1865, was a block of mica-schist, and 
the fragment I broke off it not only possesses, in a remarkable degree, the character 
of the peak, but mimics, in an astonisning manner, the details of its form. [See illus- 
tration on page 63.] 



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62 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. hi. 

giants, }>acked ])y the ranges, chains, and massifs. First came the 
Dent ]51anche, hoary and grand ; tlie Gabelhorn and pointed Koth- 
horn ; and tlien the peerless Weisshorn : the towering Mischabelhorner, 
flanked hy tlie Allaleinhorn, hJtrahlhorn, and Rimpfischhorn ; then 
Monte liosa^with its many Spitzes — tlie Lyskamm and the Breit- 
horn. Behind were the Bernese Oberland, governed by the Finsteraar- 
horn ; the Siniplon and St. Gothard groups ; the Disgrazia and the 
Orteler. Towards the south we looked down to Chivasso on the 
plain of Piedmont, and far beyond. The Viso — one hundred miles 
away — seemed close ujwn us ; the Maritime Alps — one hundred and 
thirty miles distant — were free from haze. Then came my first love 
— the Pelvoux ; the Ecrins and the Meije ; the clusters of the 
Uraians ; and lastly, in the west, glowing in full sunlight, rose the 
monarch of all — Mont Blanc. Ten thousand feet beneath us were 
the green fields of Zermatt, dotted with chalets, from which blue 
smoke rose lazily. Eight thousand feet below, on the other side, 
were the pastures of Breuil. There were forests black and gloomy, 
and meadows bright and lively ; bounding waterfalls and tranquil 
lakes ; fertile lands and savage wastes ; sunny plains and frigid 
plateaux. There were the most rugged forms, and the most grace- 
ful outlines — lx)ld, i)erpendicular cliffs, and gentle, undulating slopes; 
rocky mountains and snowy mountains, sombre and solemn, or 
glittering and white, with walls — turrets — pinnacles — pyramids — 
domes — cones — and spires ! There was every combination that the 
world can give, and every contrast that the heart could desire. 
We remained on the summit for one hour — 

"Ono crowded hour of glorious life." 

It passed away too quickly, and we began to prepare for the descent. 




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THE ACTUAL SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865. 

CHAPTER IV. 

DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN. 

ORDER OF THE DESCENT — A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE— HADOW SLIPS 
— DEATH OF CROZ, HADOW, HUDSON AND LORD F. DOUGLAS — 
TERROR OF THE TAUGWALDERS — AN APPARITION — AN INFAMOUS 
PROPOSITION — SURPRISED BY NIGHT — SEARCH FOR AND RECOVERY 
OF THE BODIES — OFFICIAL EXAMINATION — THEIR LAST RESTING- 
PLACE. 

Hudson and I again consulted as to the best and safest arrange- 
ment of the party. We agreed that it would be best for Croz to 
go first,^ and Hadow second ; Hudson, who was almost equal to a 
l)orn mountaineer in sureness of foot, wished to be third ; Lord 
Francis Douglas was placed next, and old Peter, tlie strongest of 
the remainder, after him. I suggested to Hudson that we should 
attach a rope to the rocks on our arrival at the difficult bit, and 
hold it as we descended, as an additional protection. He approved 
the idea, but it was not definitely settled tliat it should be done. 
The party was being arranged in the above order whilst I was 
sketching the summit, and they had finished, and were waiting for 

1 If the members of the party had been more equally efficient, Croz would have 
been placed kut. 



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64 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. iv. 

me to be tied in line, when some one remembered that our names 
had not been left in a bottle. They requested me to write them 
down, and moved off while it was being done. 

A few minutes afterwards I tied myself to young Peter, ran down 
after the others, and caught them just as they were commencing the 
descent of the difficult part. ^ Great care was being taken. Only one man 
was moving at a time ; when he was firmly planted the next advanced, 
and so on. They had not, however, attached the additional rope to 
rocks, and nothing was said about it. The suggestion was not made 
for my own sake, and I am not sure that it even occurred to me 
again. For some little distance we two followed the others, detached 
from them, and should have continued so had not Lord Francis Douglas 
asked me, about 3 p.m., to tie on to old Peter, as he feared, he said, 
that Taugwalder would not be able to hold his ground if a slip 
occurred. 

A few minutes later, a sharp-eyed lad ran into the Monte Kosa 
hotel, to Seiler, saying that he had seen an avalanche fall from the 
summit of the Matterhorn on to the Matterhomgletscher. The boy 
was reproved for telling idle stories ; he was right, nevertheless, and 
this was what he saw. 

Michel Croz had laid aside his axe, and in order to give Mr. Hadow 
greater security, was absolutely taking hold of his legs, and putting 
his feet, one by one, into their proper positions. ^ So far as I know, 
no one was actually descending. I cannot speak with certainty, 
because the two leading men were partially hidden from my sight by 
an intervening mass of rock, but it is my belief, from the movements 
of their shoulders, that Croz, having done as I have said, was in the 
act of turning round, to go down a step or two himself ; at this 
moment Mr. Hadow slipped, fell against him, and knocked him over. 
I heard one startled exclamation from Croz, then saw him and Mr. 
Hadow flying downwards ; in another moment Hudson was dragged 
from his steps, and Lord F. Douglas immediately after him.^ All 

1 Described upon pp. 59-60. 

2 Not at all an unusual proceeding, even between born mountaineers. I wish to convey 
the impression that Croz was using all pains, rather than to indicate inability on the 
part of Mr. Hadow. The insertion of the word ' absolutely ' makes the passage, perhaps, 
rather ambiguous. I retain it now, in order to offer the above explanation. 

^ At the moment of the accident, Croz, Hadow, and Hudson, were close together. 
Between Hudson and Lord F. Douglas the rope was all but taut, and the same between 
all the others who were above. Otoz was standing by the side of a rock which afforded 
good hold, and if he had been aware, or had suspected, that anything was about to occur, 
he might and would have gripped it, and would have prevented any mischief. He was 
taken totally by surprise. Mr. Hadow slipped off his feet on to his back, his feet struck 
Croz in the small of the back, and knocked him right over, head first. Croz's axe was 
out of his reach, and without it he managed to get his head uppermost before he dis- 
appeared from our sight. If it had been in his hand I have no doubt that he would 
have stopped himself and Mr. Hadow. 

Mr. Hadow, at the moment of the slip, was not occupying a bad position. He could 
have moved either up or down, and could touch with his hand the rock of which I have 
spoken. Hudson was not so well placed, but he had liberty of motion. The rope was 
not taut from him to Hadow, and the two men fell ten or twelve feet before the jerk 
came upon him. Lord F. Douglas was not favourably placed, and could neither move up 
nor down. Old Peter was fimuy i)lanted, and stood just beneath a large rock which he 
hu^ed with both arms. I enter into these details to make it more apparent that the 
position occupied by the party at the moment of the accident was not by any means 



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CHAP. IV. 



THE ROPE BROKE! 



65 



this was the work of a moment. Immediately we heard Croz's ex- 
clamation, old Peter and I planted ourselves as firmly as the rocks 
would permit:^ the rope was taut between us, and the jerk came on 




Qi^^^^^- ^^^^^^ 



us both as on one man. We held ; but the rope broke midway between 
Taugwalder and Lord Francis Douglas. For a few seconds we saw 

excessively trying. We were compelled to pass over the exact spot where the slip 
occurred, and we found— even with shaken nerves— that it was not a difficult place to 
pass. I have described the %l&pe generally as difficult, and it is so undoubtedly to most 
persons ; but it must be distinctly understood that Mr. Hadow slipped at a comparatively 
easy part. 

1 Or, more correctly, we held on as tightly as possible. There was no time to change 
our position. 

F 



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66 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTEBHORN. chap. iv. 



our unfortunate companions sliding downwards on their backs, and 
spreading out their hands, endeavouring to save themselves. They 
passed from our sight uninjured, disappeared one by one, and then fell 
from precipice to precipice on to the Matterhomgletscher below, a 
distance of nearly 4000 feet in height. From the moment the rope 
broke it was impossible to help them. 

So perished our comrades ! For the space of half-an-hour we re- 
mained on the spot without moving a single step. The two men, 
paralysed by terror, cried like infants, and trembled in such a manner 
as to threaten us with the fate of the others. Old Peter rent the 
air with exclamations of " Chamonix ! Oh, what will Chamonix say ? " 
He meant. Who would believe that Croz could fall? The young man 
did nothing but scream or sob, "We are lost ! we are lost!" Fixed 
between the two, I could neither move up nor down. I begged young 
Peter to descend, but he dared not. Unless he did, we could not 

advance. Old Peter became alive 
to the danger, and swelled the cry, 
"We are lost ! we are lost ! " The 
father's fear was natural — he 
trembled for his son ; the young 
man's fear was cowardly — he 
thought of self alone. At last 
old Peter summoned up courage, 
and changed his position to a rock 
to which he couJd fix the rope; 
the young man then descended, 
and we all stood together. Im- 
mediately we did so, I asked for 
the rope which had given way, and 
found, to my surprise — indeied, to 
my horror — that it was the weak- 
est of the three ropes. It was 
not brought, and should not have 
been employed, for the purpose 
for which it was used. It was 
old rope, and, compared with the 
others, was feeble. It was in- 
tended as a reserve, in case we 
had to leave much rope behind, 
attached to rocks. I saw at once 
that a serious question was in- 
volved, and made him give me the end. It had broken in mid-air, 
and it did not appear to have sustained previous injury. 

For more than two hours afterwards I thought almost every 
moment that the next would be my last ; for the Taugwalders, 
utterly unnerved, were not only incapable of giving assistance, but 
were in such a state that a slip might have been expected from them 
at any moment. After a time, we were able to do that which should 
have been done at first, and fixed rope to firm rocks, in addition to 
being tied together. These ropes were cut from time to time, and 




ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN. 



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CHAP. IV. AN APPARITION, 67 

were left behind.^ Even with their assurance the men were afraid 
to proceed, and several times old Peter turned with ashy face and 
faltering limbs, and said, with terrible emphasis, " I cannot/" 

About 6 P.M. we arrived at the snow upon the ridge descending 
towards Zermatt, and all peril was over. We frequently looked, but 
in vain, for traces of our unfortunate companions ; we bent over the 
ridge and cried to them, but no sound returned. Convinced at last 
that they were neither within sight nor hearing, we ceased from our 
useless efforts; and, too cast down for speech, silently gathered up 
our things, and the little effects of those who were lost, preparatory 
to continuing the descent. When, lo ! a mighty arch appeared, 
rising above the Lyskamm, high into the sky. Pale, colourless, and 
noiseless, but perfectly sharp and defined, except where it was lost 
in the clouds, this unearthly apparition seemed like a vision from 
another world ; and, almost appalled, we watched with amazement 
the gradual development of two vast crosses, one on either side. If 
the Taugwalders had not been the first to perceive it, I should have 
doubted my senses. They thought it had some connection with the 
accident, and I, after a while, that it might bear some relation to 
ourselves. But our movements had no effect upon it. The spectral 
forms remained motionless. It was a fearful and wonderful sight ; 
unique in my experience, and impressive beyond description, coming 
at such a moment. ^ 

1 These ends, for a long time, remained attached to the rocks, and marked our line 
of ascent and descent. 

2 I paid very little attention to this remarkable phenomenon, and was glad when it 
disappeared, as it distracted our attention. Under ordinary circumstances I should have 
felt vexed afterwards at not having observed with greater precision an occurrence so 
rare and so wonderful. I can add very little about it to that which is said above. The 
sun was directly at our backs ; that is to say, the fog-bow was opposite to the sun. 
The time was 6.30 p.m. The forms were at once tender and sharp ; neutral in tone ; 
were developed gradually, and disappeared suddenly. The mists were light (that is, not 
dense), and were dissipated in the course of the evening. 

It has been suggested that the crosses are incorrectly figured in the Frontispiece of 
Scrambles amongst the Alps, and that they were 
probably formed by the intersection of other circles 
or ellipses, as shewn in the annexed diagram. I 
think this suggestion is very likely correct ; but in 
the Frontispiece I have preferred to follow my original 
memorandum. 

In Parry's Narrative of an Attempt to reach the 
NoHh Pole, 4to, 1828, there is, at pp. 99-100, an 
account of the occurrence of a phenomenon analo- 

Sous to the above-mentioned one. "At half -past 
ve P.M. we witnessed a very beautiful natural pheno- 
menon. A broad white fog -bow first appeared 
opposite to the sun, as was very commonly the 
case," etc. I follow Parry in using the term fog- 
bow. 

It may be observed that, ui>on the descent of the 
Italian guides (whose expedition is noticed in the 
note upon pp. 73-4), upon July 17th, 1865, the pheno- 
menon commonly termed the Brocken was observed. 
The following is the account given by the Abb6 Am6 Gorret in the FeuUle d'Aoste, 
October 31, 1865 :— ** Nous 6tions sur I'^paule " (the * shoulder') " quand nous remarqu&mes 
un ph6nomfene qui nous fit plaisir ; le nuage 6tait trfes-dense du c6t6 de Valtomanche, 
c'6tut serein en Suisse ; nous nous vimes au milieu d'un cercle aux couleurs de I'arc- 
en-ciel ; ce mirage nous formait k tous une couronne au milieu de laquelle nous voyions 
notre ombre." This occurred at about 6.30 to 7 p.m., and the Italians in mention were 
at about the same height as ourselves— namely, 14,000 feet. 




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68 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. iv. 

I was ready to leave, and waiting for the others. They had 
recovered their appetites and the use of their tongues. They spoke 
in patois, which I did not understand. At length the son said in 
French, "Monsieur." "Yes." "We are poor men; we have lost our 
Herr; we shall not get paid; we can ill afford tliis."^ "Stop!" I 
said, interrupting him, "that is nonsense; I shall pay you, of course, 
just as if your Herr were here." They talked together in their patois 
for a short time, and then the son spoke again. " We don't wish 
you to pay us. We wish you to write in the hotel-book at Zermatt, 
and to your journals, that we have not been paid." "What nonsense 
are you talking? I don't understand you. What do you mean?" 
He proceeded — "Why, next year there will be many travellers at 
Zermatt, and we shall get more voyagenrs." ^ 

Who would «|,nswer such a proposition? I made them no reply in 
words,3 but they knew very well the indignation that I felt. They 
filled the cup of bitterness to overflowing, and I tore down the clift*, 
madly and recklessly, in a way that caused them, more than once, 
to inquire if I wished to kill them. Night fell ; and for an hour 
the descent was continued in the darkness. At half-past 9 a resting- 
place was found, and upon a wretched slab, barely large enough to 
hold the three, we passed six miserable hours. At daybreak the 
descent was resumed, and from the Homli ridge we ran down to the 
chAlets of Buhl, and on to Zermatt. Seller met me at his door, and 
followed in silence to my room. "What is the matter?" "The 
Taugwalders and I have returned." He did not need more, and burst 
into tears ; but lost no time in useless lamentations, and set to work 
to arouse the village. Ere long a score of men had started to ascend 
the Hohlicht heights, above Kalbermatt and Z'Mutt, which commanded 
the plateau of the Matterhomgletscher. They returned after six hours, 
and reported that they had seen the bodies lying motionless on the 
snow. This was on Saturday ; and they proposed that we should leave 
on Sunday evening, so as to arrive upon the plateau at daybreak on 
Monday. Unwilling to lose the slightest chance, the Rev. J. M'Cormick 
and I resolved to start on Sunday morning. The Zermatt men, 
threatened with excommunication by their priests if they failed to 
attend the early mass, were unable to accompany us. To several 
of them, at least, this was a severe trial. Peter Perm declared with 
tears that nothing else would have prevented him from joining in the 
search for his old comrades. Englishmen came to our aid. The 
Rev. J. Robertson* and Mr. J. Phillpotts'' offered themselves, and 
their guide Franz Andermatten ; another Englishman lent us Joseph 
Marie and Alexandre Lochmatter. Frederic Payot, and Jean Tairraz, 
of Chamonix, also volunteered. 

We started at 2 A.M. on Sunday the 16th, and followed the route 

1 They had been travelling with, and had been engaged by, Lord F. Douglas, and so 
considered him their employer, and responsible to them. 

2 Transcribed from the original memorandum. 

3 Nor did I speak to them afterwards, unless it was absolutely necessary, so long as 
we were together. 

4 Now Vicar of Whittlesford. 5 The present Head Master of Bedford School. 



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CHAP. IV. 



ALL HOPE WAS GONE, 



69 



that we had taken on the previous Thursday as far as the HomlL 
Thence we went down to the right of the ridge, ^ and mounted 
through the sirctcs of the Matterhorngletscher. By 8.30 we had got 
to the plateau at the top of the glacier, and within sight of the 
comer in which we knew my companions must he.^ As we saw one 
weather-heaten man after another raise the telescope, turn deadly 
pale, and pass it on without a word to the next, we knew that all 
hope was gone. We approached. They had fallen below as they 
had fallen above^Croz a little in advance, Hadow near him, and 




H. THE HORNLI. A. PLACE WHERE HADOW SLIPPED. 
Z. PLAGE WHERE THE BODIES WERE FOUND. 

Hudson some distance behind ; but of Lord Francis Douglas we could 
see nothing. 3 We left them where they fell : buried in snow at the 
base of the grandest cliff of the most majestic mountain of the Alps. 
All those who had fallen had been tied with the Manilla, or with 
the second and equally strong rope, and, consequently, there had been 
only one link — that between old Peter and Lord Francis Douglas — 
where the weaker rope had been used. This had a very ugly look 
for Taugwalder, for it was not possible to suppose that the others 
would have sanctioned the employment of a rope so greatly inferior 
in strength when there were more than two hundred and fifty feet 

1 To the point marked Z on the map. 2 Marked with a croes on the map. 

3 A pair of gloves, a helt, and boot that had belonged to him were found. This, some- 
how, became publicly known, and gave rise to wild notions, which would not have 
been entertained had it been also known that the whole of the boots of those who had 
fallen tcere off, and were lying upon the snow near the bodies. 



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70 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. iv. 

of the better qualities still remaining out of use.^ For the sake of 
the old guide (who bore a good reputation), and upon all other ac- 
counts, it was desirable that this matter should be cleared up; and 
after my examination before the court of inquiry which was instituted 
by the Government was over, I handed in a number of questions which 
were framed so as to afford old Peter an opportunity of exculpating 
himself from the grave suspicions which at once fell upon him. The 
questions, I was told, were put and answered; but the answers, al- 
though promised, have never reached me.* 

Meanwhile, the administration sent strict injunctions to recover 
the bodies, and upon the 19th of July, twenty-one men of Zermatt 
accomplished that &sA and dangerous task.^ Of the body of Lord 
Francis Douglas they, too, saw nothing ; it was probably still arrested 
on the rocks above.* The remains of Hudson and Hadow were in- 
terred upon the north side of the Zermatt Church, in the presence of 
a reverent crowd of sympathising friends. The body of Michel Croz 
lies upon the other side, under a simpler tomb; whose inscription 
bears honourable testimony to his rectitude, to his courage, and to 
his devotion.^ 

So the traditional inaccessibility of the Matterhom was vanquished, 
and was replaced by legends of a more real character. Others will 
essay to scale its proud cliffs, but to none will it be the mountain 
that it was to its early explorers. Others may tread its summit- 
snows, but none will ever know the feelings of those who first ga^ed 

1 I was one hundred feet or more from the others whilst they were being tied up, 
and am unable to throw any light on the matter. Croz and old Peter no doubt tied 
up the others. 

2 This was not the only occasion upon which M. Clemenz (who presided over the 
inquirr) failed to give up answers that he promised. It is greatly to be regretted that 
he did not feel that the suppression of the truth was equally against the interests of 
travellers and of the guides. If the men were untrustworthy, the public should have 
been warned of the fact ; but if they Were blameless, why allow them to remain under 
unmerited suspicion? 

Old Peter Taugwalder laboured for a long time under an unjust accusation. Not- 
withstanding repeated denials, even his comrades and neighbours at Zermatt persisted 
in asserting or insinuating that he cut the rope which led from him to Lord Francis 
Douglas. In regard to this infamous charge, I say that he could not do so at the 
moment of the slip, and that the end of the rope in my possession shews that he did 
not do so beforehand. There remains, however, the suspicious fact that the rope which 
broke was the thinnest and weakest one that we had. It is suspicious, because it is 
unlikely that any of the four men in front would have selected an old and weak rope 
when there was abundance of new, and much stronger, rope to roare; and, on the 
other hand, because if Taugwalder thought that an accident was lUcely to happen, it 
was to his interest to have the weaker rope where it was placed. 

I should rejoice to learn that his answers to the questions which were put to him 
were satisfactory. Not only was his act at the critical moment wonderful as a feat of 
stren^h, but it was admirable in its performance at the right time. He left Zermatt, 
and lived for several years in retirement in the United States ; but ultimately returned 
to his native valley, and died suddenly on July 11, 1888, at the Lac Noir (Schwarzsee). 

» They followed the route laid down upon the map, and on their descent were in 
great peril from the fall of a 8era4i. 

4 This, or a subsequent, party discovered a sleeve. No other traces have been found. 

6 At the instance of Mr. Alfred (now Mr. Justice) Wills, a subscription list was opened 
for the benefit of the sisters of Michel Croz, who had been partly dei>endent upon his 
earnings. In a short time more than £280 were raised. This was considered sufficient, 
and the list was closed. The ]>roceeds were invested in French Rentes Hjy Mr. William 
Mathews), at the reconmiendation of M. Dupui, at that time Maire of Ghamonix. 



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CHAP. IV. 



HIS LAST RESTING-PLACE. 



71 



upon its marvellous panorama ; and none, I trust, will ever be com- 
pelled to tell of joy turned into grief, and of laughter into mourning. 
It proved to be a stubborn foe; it resisted long, and gave many a 
hard blow ; it was defeated at last with an ease that none could liave 
anticipated, but, like a relentless enemy — conquered but not crushed 
— it took terrible vengeance. The time may come when the Matter- 
horn shall have passed away, and nothing, save a heap of shapeless 
fragments, will mark the spot where the great mountain stood ; for, 
atom by atom, inch by inch, and yard by yard, it yields to forces 
which nothing can withstand. That time is far distant ; and, ages 
hence, generations unborn will gaze upon its awful precipices, and 
wonder at its unique form. However exalted may be their ideas, 
and however exaggerated tlieir expectations, none will come to return 
disappointed ! 




THE GRAVE OF MICHEL CROZ. 



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CHAPTER V. 

SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHOR^.i 

FIRST ASCENT ON THE ITALIAN SIDE — COMPARISON OF THE TWO 
ROUTES — HUT ON^ THE ' CBAVATE' — MR. CRAUFURD GROVE'S ASCENT 
— CONSTRUCTION OF THE HUT ON THE EAST FACE — CABANE ON 
THE HORNLI RIDGE — ALTERATION IN THE FORM OF THE SUMMIT 
— DEATH OF JOSEPH BRANTSCHEN — DR. MOSELEY FALLS DOWN 
THE EAST FACE — ASCENTS FROM THE NORTH-WEST BY MESSRS. 
MUMMERY AND PENH ALL — ABANDONMENT AND DEATH OF MR. 
BORCKHARDT— ANOTHER CATASTROPHE ON THE EAST FACE — DEATH 
OF JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL — LOSS OF ANDREAS SEILER AND JOSEPH 
BIENER. 

The Val Toumanche natives who started to facilitate the way up 
the south-west ridge of the Matterhom for MM. Giordano and Sella, 
pitched their tent upon my third platform, at the foot of the Great 
Tower (12,992 feet), and enjoyed several days of bad weather under 
its shelter. On the first fine day (13th of July) they began their 
work, and about mid-day on the 14th got on to the * shoulder,' and 
arrived at the base of the final peak (the point where Bennen stopped 
on July 28, 1862). The counsels of the party were then divided. 
Two — Jean-Antoine Carrel and J. -Joseph Maquignaz — wished to go 
on ; the others were not eager about it. A discussion took place, 
and the result was they all commenced to descend, and whilst upon 
the *cravate' (13,524) they heard our cries from the summit.^ Upon 
tlie 15th they went down to Breuil and reported their ill-success to 
M. Giordano (see p. 61). That gentleman was naturally much dis- 
appointed, and pressed the men to set out again. ^ Said he, " Until 
now I have striven for the honour of making the first ascent, — fate 
has decided against me, — I am beaten. Patience ! Now, if I go to 
any further expense, it will be on your account, for your honour, 
and for your interests. Will you start again to settle the question, 
or, at least, to let there be no more uncertainty ? " The majority of 
the men (in fact the whole of them with the exception of Jean- 
Antoine) refused point-blank to have anything more to do with the 
mountain. Carrel, however, stepped forward, saying, "As for me, I 
have not given it up ; if you (turning to the Abbe Gorret) or the 

1 We resume here the account of the proceedings of the Italians who started from 
Breuil on the 11th of July, 1865. See p. 53. 

2 The foregoing particulars were related to me by J. -A. Carrel. 

8 The following details are taken from the account of the Abb6 Am6 Gorret (pub- 
lished in the FeuiUe d'Aoate, Oct. 1865), who was at Breuil when the men returned. 



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CHAP. V. THEY GALLOPED. 73 

others will come, I will start again immediately." "Not I!" said 
one. " No more for me," cried a second. " If you would give me 
a thousand francs I would not go back," said a third. The Abb^ 
Grorret alone volunteered. This plucky priest was concerned in the 
very first attempts upon the mountain, and is an enthusiastic moun- 
taineer. Carrel and the Abb6 would have set out by themselves had 
not J. B. Bich and J. -A. Meynet (two men in the employ of Favre 
the innkeeper) come forward at the last moment. M. Giordano also 
wished to accompany them, but the men knew the nature of the 
work they had to undertake, and positively declined to be accom- 
panied by an amateur. 

These four men left Breuil at 6.30 A.M. on July 16, at 1 p.m. 
arrived at the third tent-platform, and there passed the night. At 
daybreak on the 17th they continued the ascent by the route which 
had been taken before ; passed successively the Great Tower, the 
*cr6te du coq,' the *cravate,' and the * shoulder,' ^ and at 10 A.M. 
gained the point at the foot of the final peak from which the 
explorers had turned back on the 14th. They had then about 800 
feet to accomplish, and, says the Abb6, "nous allions entrer en pays 
inconnu, aucun n'^tant jamais all^ aussi loin." 

The passage of the cleft which stopped Bennen was accomplished, 
and then the party proceeded directly towards the summit, over 
rocks which for some distance were not particularly difficult. The 
steep cliffs down which we had hurled stones (on the 14th) then 
stopped their way, and Carrel led round to the left or Z'Mutt side. 
The work at this part was of the very greatest difficulty, and stones 
and icicles which fell rendered the position of the party very pre- 
carious ; 2 so much so that they preferred to turn up directly towards 
the summit, and climb by rocks that the Abb6 termed "almost per- 
pendicular." He added, "This part occupied the most time, and 
gave us the greatest trouble." At length they arrived at a fault in 
the rocks which formed a roughly horizontal gallery. They crept 
along this in the direction of a ridge that descended towards the 
north-west, or thereabouts, and when close to the ridge, found that 
they could not climb on to it ; but they perceived that, by descend- 
ing a gully with perpendicular sides, they could reach the ridge at 
a lower point. The bold Abb6 was the heaviest and the strongest 
of the four, and he was sacrificed for the success of the expedition. 
He and Meynet remained behind, and lowered the others, one by 
one, into the gully. Carrel and Bich clambered up the other side, 
attained the ridge descending towards the north-west, shortly after- 
wards gained an "easy route,^ they galloped," and in a few minutes 
reached the southern end of the summit-ridge. 

1 These terms, as well as the others, Great Stauxjase, Col du Lion, T6te du Lion, 
Chimney, and so forth, were applied by Carrel and myself to the various points, in 
consequence of real or supposed resemblances in the rocks to other things. A few of 
the terms originated with the author, but they were chiefly due to the inventive genius 
of J.-A. Carrel. 

2 I have seen icicles more than a hundred feet long hanging from the rocks near 
the summit of the Matterhorn. 

3 The words of the Abb^. I imagine that he meant comparatively easy. 

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74 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, 



CHAP. V. 




Tlie time of their arrival does not appear to have been noticed. 
It was late in the day, I believe about 3 P.M. Carrel and his com- 
rade only waited long enough to plant a flag by the side of the 
cairn tliat we had built three days previously, then descended at 
once, rejoined the others, and all four hurried down as fast as 
possible to the tent. They were so pressed for time that they could 

not eat ! and it was 9 P.M. before 
they arrived at their camp at the 
foot of the Great Tower. In de- 
scending they followed tlie gallery 
above mentioned throughout its en- 
tire length, and so avoided the very 
difficult rocks over which they had 
passed on the ascent. As they were 
traversing the length of the * shoul- 
der' they witnessed the phenomenon 
to which I have already adverted at 
the foot of p. 67. 

When Carrel and Bich were near 
the summit they saw our traces 
upon the Matterhomgletscher, and 
suspected that an accident had oc- 
curred ; they did not, however, hear 
of the Matterhom catastrophe until 
their return to Breuil, at 3 p.m. 
upon the 18th. The details of that 
sad event were in the mouths of all, 
and it was not unnaturally supposed, in the absence of correct informa- 
tion, that the accident was a proof that the northern side was fright- 
fully dangerous. The safe return of the four Italians was regarded, 
on the other hand, as evidence that the Breuil route was the best. 
Those who were interested (either personally or otherwise) in the Val 
Tournanche made the most of the circumstances, and trumpeted the 
praises of the southern route. Some went farther, and instituted com- 
parisons between the two routes to the disadvantage of the northern 
one, and were pleased to term our expedition on the 13- 14th of July 
precipitate, and so forth. Considering the circumstances which caused 
us to leave the Val Tournanche on the 12th of July, these remarks 
were not in the best possible taste, but I have no feeling regarding 
them. There may be some, however, who may be interested in a com- 
parison of the two routes, and for their sakes I will place the essential 
points in juxtaposition. We (that is the Taugwalders and myself) 
were absent from Zermatt 53 hours. Excluding halts and stoppages 
of one sort or another, the ascent and descent occupied us 23 hours. 
Zermatt is 5315 feet above the level of the sea, and the Matterhorn 
is 14,780 ; we had therefore to ascend 9465 feet. As far as the point 
marked 10,820 feet the way was known, so we had to find the way 
over only 3960 feet. The members of our party (I now include all) 
were very unequal in ability, and none of us could for a moment be 
compared as cragsmen with Jean-Antoine Carrel. The four Italians 



J. B. BICH, IN 1892. 



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CHAP. V. CABANE ON THE ' CRAY ATE: 75 

who started from Breuil on the 16th of July were absent during 56 
hours, and as far as I can gather from the published account, an( 
from conversation with the men, excluding halts, they took for the 
ascent and descent 23| hours. The hotel at Gioment is 6890 feet 
above the sea, so they had to ascend 7890 feet. As far as the end 
of the * shoulder' the way was known to Carrel, and he had to find 
the way over only about 800 feet. All four men were born mountain- 
eers, good climbers, and they were led by the most expert cragsman 
I have seen. The weather in each instance was fine. It is seen, 
therefore, that these four nearly equally matched men took a longer 
time to ascend 1500 feet less height than ourselves, although we had 
to find the way over more than four times as much untrodden ground 




CANON CARREL, OF AOSTA. 

as they. This alone would lead any mountaineer to suppose that 
their route must have been more difficult than ours.^ I know the 
greater part of the ground over which they passed, and from my 
knowledge, and from the account of Mr. Grove, which follows, I am 
sure that their route was not only more difficult, but that it was miLch 
more difficult, than ours. 

This was not the opinion in the Val Tournanche at the end of 
1865, and the natives confidently reckoned that tourists would flock 
to their side in preference to the other. It was, I believe, the late 
Canon Carrel of Aosta (who always took great interest in such matters) 
who first proposed the construction of a cabane upon the southern 
side of the Matterhorn. The project was taken up with spirit, and 
funds for its execution were speedily provided — principally by the 
members of the Italian Alpine Club, or by their friends. The inde- 
fatigable Jean-Antoine found a natural hole upon the ledge called the 

1 The pace of a party is ruled by that of its least efficient member. 

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76 ZERMATT AND THE MATTEHHORN. chaI>. V. 

*cravate' (13,524), and this, in course of time, was turned, under his 
direction, into a respectable little hut. Its position is superb, and 
gives a view of the most magnificent character. 

Whilst this work was being carried out, my friend Mr. F. Craufurd 
Grove consulted me respecting the ascent of the Matterhom. I recom- 
mended him to ascend by the northern route, and to place himself 
in the hands of Jean-Antoine Carrel. Mr. Grove found, however, 
that Carrel distinctly preferred the southern • side, and they ascended 
accordingly by the Breuil route. Mr. Grove has been good enough 
to supply the following account of his expedition. He carries on my 
description of the southern route from the highest point I attained 
on that side (a little below the * cravate ') to the summit, and thus 
renders complete my descriptions of the two sides. 

**In August 1867 I ascended the Matterhom from Breuil, taking 
as guides three mountaineers of the Valtoumanche — J. -A. Carrel, 
J. Bich, and S. Meynet, — Carrel being the leader. At that time 
the Matterhom had not been scaled since the famous expedition of 
the Italian guides mentioned above. 

** Our route was identical with that which they followed in their 
descent when, as will be seen, they struck out on one part of the 
mountain a different line from that which they had taken in ascend- 
ing. After gaining the Col du Lion, we climbed the south-western 
or Breuil arHe by the route which has been described in these pages, 
passing the night at the then unfinished hut constructed by the 
Italian Alpine Club on the * cravate.' Starting from the hut at 
daylight, we reached at an early hour the summit of the 'shoulder,' 
and then traversed its arite to the final peak of the Matterhom. 
The passage of this ar^te was perhaps the most enjoyable part of the 
whole expedition. The ridge, worn by slow irregular decay into 
monstrous and rugged battlements, and guarded on each side by 
tremendous precipices, is grand beyond all description, but does not, 
strange to say, present any remarkable difficulty to the climber, save 
that it is exceedingly trying to the head. Great care is of course 
necessary, but the scramble is by no means of so arduous a nature as 
entirely to absorb the attention ; so that a fine climb, and rock scenery, 
of grandeur perhaps unparalleled in the Alps, can both be appreciated. 

*' It was near the end of this aritCy close to the place where it 
abuts against the final peak, that Professor Tyndall's party turned 
in 1862,^ arrested by a cleft in the ridge. From the point where 
they stopped the main tower of the Matterhom rises in front of the 
climber, abrupt, magnificent, and apparently inaccessible. The summit 
is fully 750 feet in vertical height above this spot, and certainly, to 
my eye, appeared to be separated from me by a yet more consider- 
able interval ; for I remember, when at the end of the arUe^ looking 
upward at the crest of the mountain, and thinking that it must be 
a good 1000 feet above me. 

"When the Italian guides made their splendid ascent, they 
traversed the arite of the shoulder to the main peak, passed the 

1 See pp. 44-5. 

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CHAP. V. MR. GRAUFURD GROVE'S ASCENT. 77 

cleft which has been mentioned (p. 44), clambered on to the 
tremendous north-western face of the mountain (described by Mr. 
Whymper at pp. 59 and 61), and then endeavoured to cross this 
face so as to get on to the Z'Mutt arSte.^ The passage of this slope 
proved a work of great difficulty and danger. I saw it from very 
near the place where they traversed, and was unable to conceive how 
any human creatures managed to crawl over rocks so steep and so 
treacherous. After they had got about half-way across, they found 
the difficulties of the route and the danger from falling stones so 
great, that they struck straight up the mountain, in the hope of 
finding some safer way. They were to a certain extent successful, 
for they came presently to a small ledge, caused by a sort of fault 
in the rock, running horizontally across the north-western face of the 
mountain a little distance below the summit. Traversing this ledge, 
the Italians found themselves close to the Z'Mutt arSte, but still 
separated from it by a barrier, to outflank which it was necessary 
to descend a perpendicular gully. Carrel and Bich were lowered down 
this, the other two men remaining at the top to haul up their com- 
panions on their return, as otherwise they could not have got up 
again. Passing on to the Z'Mutt arSte without further difficulty. 
Carrel and Bich climbed by that ridge to the summit of the mountain. 
In returning, the Italians kept to the ledge for the whole distance 
across the north-western face, and descended to the place where the 
arSte of the shoulder abuts against the main peak by a sort of rough 
ridge of rocks between the north-western and southern faces. When 
I ascended in 1867, we followed this route in the ascent and in the 
descent. I thought the ledge difficult, in some places decidedly 
dangerous, and should not care to set foot on it again ; but assuredly 
it neither is so difficult nor so continuously dangerous as those gaunt 
and pitiless rock -slopes which the Italians crossed in their upward 
route. 

** The credit of making the Italian ascent of the Matterhom belongs 
undoubtedly to J. -A. Carrel and to the other mountaineers who 
accompanied him. Bennen led his party bravely and skilfully to a 
point some 750 feet below the top. From this point, however, good 
guide though he was, Bennen had to retire defeated ; and it was 
reserved for the l)etter mountain-craft of the Valtoumanche guide to 
win the difficult way to the summit of the Matterhom." 

Mr. Craufurd Grove was the first traveller who ascended the Matter- 
hom after the accident, and the natives of Val Toumanche were, of 
course, greatly delighted that his ascent was made upon their side. 
Some of them, however, were by no means well pleased that J. -A. 
Carrel was so much regarded. They feared, perhaps, that he would 
acquire the monopoly of the mountain. Just a month after Mr. 
Grove's ascent, six Valtoumanchians set out to see whether they 
could not learn the route, and so come in for a share of the good 
things which were expected to arrive. They were three Maquignaz's, 
Caesar Carrel (my old guide), J.-B. Carrel, and a daughter of the last 

1 A ridge descending towards the Z'Muttgletscher. 

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78 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTEEffORN, 



CHAP. V. 




named ! They left Breuil at 5 a.m. on Sept. 12, and at 3 P.M. arrived 
at the hut, where they passed the night. At 7 A.M. the next day 
they started again (leaving J.-B. Carrel behind), and proceeded along 

the * shoulder' to the final 
peak ; passed the cleft which 
had stopped Bennen, and clam- 
bered up the comparatively 
easy rocks on the other side 
until they arrived at the base 
of the last precipice, down 
which we had hurled stones on 
July 14, 1865. They (young 
woman and all) were then 
about 350 feet from the sum- 
mit ! Then, instead of turning 
to the left, as Carrel and Mr. 
Grove had done, J. -Joseph and 
J. -Pierre Maquignaz paid atten- 
tion to the cliif in front of them, 
and managed to find a means 
of passing up, by clefts, ledges, 
and gullies, to the summit. 
This was a shorter (and, though 
difficult, is a much easier) route 
than that taken by Carrel and 
Grove, and it has generally been 
followed by those who have 
since then ascended the mountain from the side of Breuil. ^ Subsequently, 
ropes were fixed over the most difficult portions of the final climb. 

In the meantime they had not been idle upon the other side. A 
hut was constructed upon the eastern face, at a height of 12,526 feet 
above the sea, near to the crest of the ridge which descends towards 
Zermatt (north-east ridge). ^ The erection was undertaken by the 
Knubels, of St. Nicholas, at the expense of Monsieur Alex. Seiler and 
of the Swiss Alpine Club. This hut upon the east face is placed in 
an insecure position, and is now seldom used, as another hut or 
cabane has been built upon the Homli ridge,* a few yards to the east 
of, and slightly lower down than the spot where Mr. Kennedy put up 
his cairn in 1862 (see p. 27). 

The second ascent of the Matterhorn on the northern side was 

1 By permission, from a photograph by Sig^or Sella. 

2 J. -Joseph and J. -Pierre Maquignaz alone ascended ; the others had had enough and 
returned. It should be observed that ropes had been fixed, by J. -A. Carrel and others, 
over all the difficult -paits of the mountain as high as the shoulder, before the ascent 
of these persons. This explains the facility with which they moved over ground which 
had been found very trying in earlier times. The young woman declared that the 
ascent (as far as she went) was a trifle, or used words to that effect ; if she had tried 
to get to the same height before 1862, she would probably have been of a different 
opinion. 

» This is marked on the Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers {Cab. S.A.C.), 
* The position of the hut on the Homli ridge is marked by the word Cabane on the 
Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers. 



J. -JOSEPH MAQUIGNAZ.l 



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THE CABANE ON THE EAST FACE OF THE MATTERHORN. 



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80 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. 



CHAP. V. 



made by Mr. J. M. Elliot, on July 24-25, 1868, with the guides 
Joseph Marie Lochmatter and Peter Knubel. Down to the end of 1871, 
the ascents that were made were equally divided between the northern 
(or Zermatt) and the southern (or Breuil) route. Until that time, 
neither guides nor tourists had got clear of the idea that the Swiss 
route was more difficult and dangerous than the Italian one. In 




THE HUT ON THE HORNLI RIDGE. 



187^ {ih^ year folioNvin^ I he jmb- 

lioatio^i ijf Si'rtimhli'^ ftrnfifigjif t/tr 

Alps} tliti Zi*rtnfltt E*ifle fo*iii(i nhirt* 

favour, i\Ui] it hn.^ c*4Jiitinued U} 

be the popvilar route to tlie prf^s- 

ent time nSDTK In AppemHx E 

of tlna 4tli Ktiition of Sryftmhlr^ 

the ai^t-entrt liavt: bct-u tabulate<[ 

down to the first which was made 

in 1880;^ and, amongst the 194 

which are enumerated, 136 were made on the Swiss side, against 23 

upon the Italian side. On nine other occasions persons crossed the 

mountain from Zermatt to Breuil, and upon twenty- two more traversed 

it from Breuil to Zermatt. 

Prof. Tyndall was the first to turn the summit of the Matterhom 
into a pass. He went up the Breuil side and came down upon Zermatt. 
A few days later Messrs. Hoiler and Thioly crossed the mountain in 
the reverse direction. 

After these, the first ascent which calls for notice is that by Signor 
F. Giordano. This gentleman came to Breuil several times after his 
visit in 1865, but he was always baffled by the weather. In July 
1866, he got as high as the 'cravate' with Jean-Antoine Carrel and 
other men, and was detained there Jive days and nights unable to 
move either tip or down! At last, on Sept. 3-5, 1868, he was able to 

1 It has not been possible to carrj' this list on to a later date. Ascents have multiplied, 
and are often made by persons whose names are unknown. 

The Geneva Telegraph of Sept. 24, 1892, stated that on the previous Sunday there were 
twenty-three tourists upon the summit, one of whom was a Roj'al Prince. 



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CHAP. V. ALTERATION IN FORM OF THE SUMMIT. 81 

gratify his desire, and accomplished the feat of ascending the mountain 
upon one side and descending it upon the other. Signor Giordano 
spent a considerable time in examining the structure of the Matter- 
horn, and became benighted upon its eastern face in consequence. I 
am indebted to him for the valuable note and the accompanying section 
which are given in Appendix H.^ 

Questions having been frequently put to me respecting the immediate 
summit of the Matterhom, I made an ascent of the mountain in 1874, 
to photograph the summit, and to see what changes had occurred 
since our visit nine years before. The summits of all high mountains 
vary from time to time, and the Matterhom is no exception to the 
general rule. It was sharper and narrower in 1874 than in 1865. 
Instead of being able *to run about,' every step had to be cut with 
the axe ; and the immediate summit, instead of being a blunt and 
rounded eminence, was a little cone of snow which went to a sharp 
point. In consequence of a strong north wind which was blowing at 
the time, we had to work down upon the edge of the cliff overlooking 
Breuil, to get protection for the camera, and eventually we gained a 
position which gave a good view of the summit; but our ledge was 
so small that we could not venture to unrope, and Jean-Antoine had 
to squat down whilst I photographed over his head. The engraving 
upon p. 82 has been made from the photograph which was taken 
on this occasion. The nearest of the lower peaks, on the left, is the 
summit of the Dent d'Herens. 

Carrel and I stopped a second night at the cabane on the east face, 
and whilst there we had the insecurity of its position forcibly impressed 
upon us by seeing a huge block break away from the rock at its side, 
and go crashing down over the very route which is commonly pursued 
by tourists. The view from this hut extends from the Bietschorn on 
the north to the Grand Toumalin in the south, and includes the 
Mischabel group, the Allaleinhom, Alphubel, Rimpfiscliliom and 
Strahlhom, Monte Rosa, the Lyskamm and the Breithorn. The upper- 
most 800 feet of the Matterhom can be seen from the hut, but the 
rest of the intervening part of the mountain is not visible, being 
hidden by a small ridge which projects from the face. 

In 1879 two deaths occurred upon the Matterhom, within a few 
hours of each other, — one in the hut on the * cravate,' and the second 
upon the eastern face. On August 12, Dr. C. Liischer and Prof. H. 
Schiess started from Breuil at a very early hour, accompanied by the 
guides Joseph Marie Lochmatter, Joseph Brantschen, and P. Beytrison. 
They gained the hut on the * cravate' (13,524 feet) at 1.20 p.m., and 
stopped there for the night ; and on the following day the party crossed 
the summit of the mountain, with the exception of Brantschen, who 
was left behind in the hut, some say only slightly ill, and others at 

1 Signor Giordano carried a mercurial barometer throughout the entire distance, and 
read it frequently. His observations enable me to determine the heights that were 
attained upon the different attempts which were made to ascend the mountain, and the 
various pomts upon it which have been so frequently mentioned. He left a minimimi 
thermometer upon the summit in 1868. This was recovered by J. -A. Carrel in July 
1869, and was found to register only 9° Fahrenheit below the freezing-point. It was 
supposed that it was protected from the winter cold by a deep covering of snow. The 
explanation is scarcely satisfactory. 

G 



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THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1874. 



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CHAP. V. THE DEATH OF BEANTSCHEN. 83 

the point of death. They sent back assistance to their sick comrade 
in a somewhat tardy fashion, and when the relief party arrived at 
the hut Brantschen was found dead. Dr. Luscher and Prof. Schiess 
furnished an account of what happened to the Basel Section of the 
Swiss Alpine Club, and from this statement the following extracts 
are made. 

** When we reached the * cravate ' it was already 1 p.m. Lochmatter 
told us we had still four hours' work to reach the top, and the question 
arose whether it would not be more prudent to spend the night in 
the Italian cabane. . . In the course of the afternoon we remarked 
that Brantschen was unwell ; Lochmatter kept on pressing him to eat 
and drink. We took no great heed of the matter, and looked on it 
as mountain-sickness, or the result of drinking too much water during 
the ascent. On my asking Brantschen when he had first felt unwell, 
he answered, since he had slept in the sun. We observed no spitting 
of blood on his part during the ascent; had we noticed anything of 
the kind we should naturally not have taken him with us. Up to 
5 P.M. he was sitting on the door-step, his gaze directed on Breuil. 
Later on, after he had lain down, he began to groan and throw him- 
self about, in the night also to rattle in the throat. Being asked 
where he felt pain, he answered, he felt pains all over. There 
was altogether not much to be got out of him either by us or by 
Lochmatter. He was, however, in no high state of fever, he was not 
hot to the touch, and his pulse was not unusually rapid. There was 
no remarkable coughing. My guide acted as cook, and succeeded with 
the small stock of wood in making tea several times, and towards 
morning chocolate also. This tea was the only restorative we could 
offer to the sick man, and he seemed to take it gladly. Towards 
morning he at last became quieter, his breathing more regular, and 
he left off groaning and crying out." 

" On the morning of August 13 the guides had given a hope that 
Brantschen might recover sufficiently to accompany us ; for this reason 
the start was delayed to 6 o'clock. But it became evident that this 
was impossible. And now no discussion took place, neither was there 
any interchange of plans between the guides and Brantschen. It 
appeared best to all of us to wrap up Brantschen well, to furnish him 
with the necessary provisions, and to hurry over quickly to Zermatt 
and send him help. Had we remained with him it would have been 
no benefit to Brantschen ; and I am also convinced that he himself 
thought our course of action perfectly natural, otherwise he would 
have made some remonstrance, which he did not do. We bade him 
keep up his courage and wished him farewell, in the hope that he 
would by degrees entirely recover. . . At 1.30 A.M. on August 14 we 
reached Zermatt. We had sent from the Swiss hut a message before 
us, and at 3 o'clock the relief party started over the Furgg-gletscher 
skirting the Matterhom. It found Brantschen already dead and stiff ; 
apparently a rupture of the heart or lungs had happened. "^ 

1 The above extracts are taken from the Alpiiie Journal, vol. ix, pp. 374-77. I entirely 
concur in the following remarks, which were appended by the Editor. "On the facts 



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84 ZERMATT AND THE MATTEBHORN. chap. v. 

At the time that this was taking place on the South side of the 
Matterhom, Dr. William O. Moseley of Boston lost his life on the 
East Face. He left Zermatt at 10.30 p.m. on August 13, in company 
with Mr. A. E. Craven and the guides Peter Rubi and Christian 
Inabnit ; and ascended the mountain by the usual northern route, 
without stopping at the hut. They reached the summit at 9 A.M. 
on the 14th, and had returned to within a short distance from the 
hut, when Dr. Moseley (who had found it irksome to be tied up, and 
had frequently wished to go unroped) untied himself from the rest, 
doing so entirely upon his own responsibility. A few minutes later 
the party had to cross a projecting piece of rock. Rubi went over 
first, and planted his axe in position to give firm footing to Dr. 
Moseley, who followed. But, unhappily, he declined assistance ; placed 
his hand upon the rock, and endeavoured to vault over it. In doing 
so he slipped, lost hold of his axe, and fell with ever-accelerating 
velocity down the East Face for about 2000 feet, and of course was 
killed on the spot. His body was recovered three days later and was 
interred under the south wall of the English Church at Zermatt. 
"/ was shocked to find" said a friend who examined his remains, 
^* that Dr. Moseley had hardly any nails in one of his hoots." 

Many persons have talked at different times about the possibility 
of finding a way up the Matterhorn from the side of the Z'Mutt 
Glacier ; but it was not until the year 1879 that a way was dis- 
covered. On September 2-3, Mr. A. F. Mummery with the guides 
Alexander Burgener, Petrus, and Kentinetta succeeded in gaining the 
summit by first going up the long snow-buttress which runs out 
from the mountain towards the north-west, and then up the rocks 
above. When nearing the top, they joined the routes taken by 
Carrel and Mr. Grove upon the first ascents which were made on 
the Italian side.^ 

At the very time that Mr. Mummery was engaged in liis expedi- 
tion, Mr. W. Penhall, with the guides Ferdinand Imseng and Louis 
Zurbrucken, was occupied on a similar enterprise, and also ascended 
the Matterhorn from the direction of the Stockhi. Mr. Penhall, 
however, at first took a course slightly more to the south than Mr. 
Mummery, though he, at last, like the others, got on to the main 
Z'Mutt arHe, and completed the ascent by following a portion of 
the old Italian route. ^ 

of this account, but one judgment can be formed. In the face of the description given 
by Prof. Schiess of Brantschen's condition during the night, his excuses are altogether 
inadequate. The adoption of a route by which the nearest succour was (at the pace of 
the party) 19^ instead of 8 hours oflf, may have been simply a deplorable error of 
judgment ; but the determination to leave the sick man alone "showed unpardonable 
want of heart. It must ever be a matter of profound regret that any travellers or 
guides should, without the least pressure of necessity, have left a sick man, without 
firewood in a hut 13,000 feet above the sea, to over thirty hours of certain and absolute 
solitude. There can be no doubt that the desertion of Brantschen under such cir- 
cumstances was a flagrant breach of the first tradition of all honourable mountaineer- 
ing—the tradition, by virtue of which every member of a party, guide or moimtaineer, 
has been accustomed in danger or distress to count on the support of his comrades." 

1 Mr. Mummery's description will be found in the Alpine Journal, vol. ix, pp. 
458-62. 

'-5 See Alpine Journal, vol. ix, pp. 449-58. 



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CHAP. V. DEATH OF MR, BORCKHARDT. 85 

Three days afterwards (Sept. 5-6), Mr. J. Baumann followed in 
Mr. Mummery's footsteps. "I found it," he said, "an interesting 
rock -climb, presenting no extraordinary difficulties. . . I am of 
opinion that this ascent by the Z'Mutt arUe will in future become 
the favourite way of crossing the Matterhorn."i As yet, Mr. Bau- 
mann's anticipation has not been realised. Indeed, until 1894, I did 
not hear that anyone further had either ascended or descended by 
the routes of Messrs. Mummery and Penhall.^ 

On July 19., 1880, Mr. A. Mummery invented another way up 
the Matterhom. With the guides Alexander Burgener and B. 
Venetz, he ascended via the Furgg Glacier and the East Face, keep- 
ing near the south-east ridge until reaching the level of the northern 
'shoulder,' and then crossing the face to the 'shoulder.' Then the 
ascent was completed by the Zermatt route. See Alpine Journal 
vol. X, p. 96, and My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus^ chapter ii. 

In 1886, another life was lost on the East Face. Two friends, 
named Borckhardt and Davies, resolved to climb the mountain. We 
knew, said the latter, that it had been done by ladies and youths. 
** It was the regular thing to go up the Matterhorn, and we accord- 
ingly determined to make the ascent." 

Accompanied by Fridolin Kronig and Peter Aufdemblatten, they 
left Zermatt on Aug. 16, in fine weather; and at 3 A.M. on the 17th 
started from the hut on the Homli ridge, arriving on the summit at 
about 9 A.M. The comparative rapidity with which they mounted 
was probably due to the fact that they were closely following in the 
track of other parties of tourists. The weather changed during the 
early morning, and it began to hail while they were still on the top. 
They commenced to descend at 9.20 A.M., in the next ten hours 
came down scarcely 2000 feet, and were benighted some distance 
above the old hut on the East Face. All tracks on the mountain 
were obliterated by the hail and snow which fell. They remained 
on this spot from about 7 p.m. on the 17th of August until 1 p.m. 
on the 18th, and then Mr. Davies and the two guides continued the 
descent, leaving Mr. Borckhardt behind, upon the open face of the 
mountain, lying in a helpless condition, at the point of death ! A 
few hours later he was found dead and stiff, partly covered by freshly- 
fallen snow. 

The entire story exceeds in horror and incredibility the abandon- 

1 AVpine Joumdly vol. ix, p. 366. 

2 The following paragraph is taken from the Alpine Journal^ vol. xiii, pp. 399-400. 
On Aug. 3, 1887, Messrs. G. Lammer and A. Lorria "without guides, left the Stock je 
hut at 1.45 A.M. to attempt the ascent of the Matterhorn by Mr. Penhall's route. They 
reached a point not very far from the top, but were compelled at 1 p.m. to turn back, 
owing to iced rocks. At 5.30 or 6 p.m., while traversing Penhall's couloir, they were 
carried down by an avalanche. Herr Lorria received concussion of the brain, besides a 
fracture of the right leg above the ankle, had both feet frost-bitten, and became un- 
conscious. Herr Lammer, with a badly-sprained ankle, pulled his friend on to a rock, 
stripped oflf his own coat to cover him, and then went for aid. He found no one at 
the Stockje hut, so had to crawl down to the Staflfel Alp, whence he despatched a 
message to Zermatt. A relief party came up and reached Herr Lorria about 7.30 a.m. 
on Aug. 4. He was still unconscious, and in his delirium had stripped off his clothes." 
Further details of this mad adventure will be found in the Alpine Journal^ vol. xiii, 
pp. 550-53. 



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86 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. v. 

ment of Brantschen, and is much too long to recount in these pages.* 
An inquiry into this miserable business was held by the Valaisan 
authorities, and in an official Report upon it by Prof. F. O. Wolf, 
which was published at Sion, it is said "that the sole causes of the 
accident were the sudden changes in the weather ; the insufficient 
number of guides; and the facts that neither Mr. Davies nor Mr. 
Borckhardt were fit to climb such a peak, were insufficiently clad, 
and badly provisioned." A further cause might have been added, 
namely, the incapacity of the guides. 

In 1890, there was yet another accident upon the East Face, which 
caused the loss of an entire party. A young man from Strasburg, 
Herr Goehrs, started from the hut on the Hornli ridge at 3.30 A.M. 
on the 13th of September with two young guides, Alois Graven and 
Joseph Brantschen. They were shortly followed by several other 
persons. About 9 A.M., both parties encountered high wind when a 
thousand feet or so below the summit, and decided to return. Very 
soon afterwards, Fridolin Burgener (one of the guides of the lower 
party) heard a clatter, and saw Herr Goehrs and his guides flying 
through the air within a hundred yards of him. The three fell until 
they were brought up on the Furgg-gletscher, and of course were 
killed outright. Though the cause of this accident is unknown, the 
probability is that these three very young men (who could not have 
had adequate mountaineering experience) were killed through one or 
more of them slipping upon the easiest side of the mountain. Since 
this last lamentable aflair the Zermatt face of the Matterhom has 
been free from disaster, but there still remain to be mentioned two 
catastrophes which have occurred upon the Italian side. 

When telegrams came in, at the beginning of September, 1890, 
stating that Jean-Antoine Carrel had died from fatigue on the south 
side of the Matterhorn, those who knew the man scarcely credited 
the report. It was not likely that this tough and hardy mountaineer 
would die from fatigue anywhere, still less that he would succumb 
upon *his own mountain.' But it was true. Jean-Antoine perished 
from the combined efi*ects of cold, hunger, and fatigue upon his own 
side of his own mountain, almost within sight of his own home. 
He started on the 23rd of August from Breuil, with an Italian gentle- 
man and Charles Gorret (brother of the Abb^ Gorret), with the 
intention of crossing the Matterhorn in one day. The weather at 
the time of their departure was the very best, and it changed in the 
course of the day to the very worst. They were shut up in the 
cabane at the foot of the Great Tower during the 24th, with scarcely 
any footl, and on the 25th retreated to Breuil. Although Jean- 
Antoine (upon whom, as leading guide, the chief labour and responsi- 
bility naturally devolved) ultimately succeeded in getting his party 
safely ofi* the mountain, he liimself was so overcome by fatigue, cold, 
and want of food that he died on the spot. 

Jean-Antoine Carrel entered his sixty-second year in January, 1890,2 

1 See the Alpine Journal, vol. xiii, pp. 95-110, and 166-171. 

2 The exact date of his birth does not seem to be known. He was christened at the 
Church of St. Antoine, Valtoumanche, on Januarj' 17, 1829. 



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CHAP. V. A GREAT ' TOURMENTE: 87 

and was in the field throughout the summer. On 21st August, having 
just returned from an ascent of Mont Blanc, he was engaged at 
Courmayeur hy Signor Leone Sinigaglia, of Turin, for an ascent of 
the Matterhom. He proceeded to the Val Toumanche, and on the 
23rd set out with him and Charles Gorret, for the last time, to ascend 
his own mountain by his own route. A long and clear account of 
what happened was communicated by Signor Sinigaglia to the Italian 
Alpine Club, and from this the following relation is condensed : — 

"We started for the Cervin at 2.15 A.M. on the 23rd, in splendid 
weather, with the intention of descending the same night to the hut 
at the Homli on the Swiss side. We proceeded pretty well, but the 
glaze of ice on the rocks near the Col du Lion retarded our march 
somewhat, and when we arrived at the hut at the foot of the Great 
Tower, prudence counselled the postponement of the ascent until the 
next day, for the sky was becoming overcast. We decided upon this, 
and stopped. 

"Here I ought to mention that both I and Gorret noticed with 
uneasiness that Carrel showed signs of fatigue upon leaving the Col 
du Lion. I attributed this to temporary weakness. As soon as we 
reached the hut he lay down and slept profoundly for two hours, 
and awoke much restored. In the meantime the weather was rapidly 
changing. Storm clouds coming from the direction of Mont Blanc 
hung over the Dent d'H^rens, but we regarded them as transitory, 
and trusted to the north wind, which was still continuing to blow. 
Meanwhile, three of the Maquignaz's and Edward Bich, whom we 
found at the hut, returning from looking after the ropes, started 
downwards for Breuil, at parting wishing us a happy ascent, and 
holding out hopes of a splendid day for the morrow. 

" But, after their departure, the weather grew worse very rapidly ; 
the wind changed, and towards evening there broke upon us a most 
violent hurricane of hail and snow, accompanied by frequent flashes 
of lightning. The air was so charged with electricity that for two 
consecutive hours in the night one could see in the hut as in broad 
daylight. The storm continued to rage all night, and the day and 
night following, continuously, with incredible violence. The tempera- 
ture in the hut fell to - 3 degrees. 

"The situation was becoming somewhat alarming, for the provisions 
were getting low, and we had already begun to use the seats of the 
hut as firewood. The rocks were in an extremely bad state, and we 
were afraid that if we stopped longer, and the storm continued, we 
should be blocked up in the hut for several days. This being the 
state of afiairs, it was decided among the guides that if the wind 
should abate we should descend on the following morning ; and, as 
the wind did abate somewhat, on the morning of the 25th (the weather, 
however, still remaining very bad), it was unanimously settled to make 
a retreat." 

"At 9 A.M. we left the hut. I will not speak of the difficulties 
and dangers in descending the arHe to the Col du Lion, which we 
reached at 2.30 p.m. The ropes were half frozen ; the rocks were 
covered with a glaze of ice, and fresh snow hid all points of support. 



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(^a/tA^^Z ^forr ^^/^^^r^^^ 



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CHAP. V. DEATH OF JEANANTOINE CARREL, 89 

Some spots were really as bad as could be, and I owe much to the 
prudence and coolness of the two guides that wp got over them Avith- 
out mishap." 

"At the Col du Lion, where we hoped the wind would moderate, 
a dreadful hurricane recommenced, and in crossing the snowy passages 
we were nearly suffocated by the wind and snow which attacked us 
on all sides. ^ Through the loss of a glove, Gorret, half an hour after 
leaving the hut, had already got a hand frost-bitten. The cold was 
terrible here. Every moment we had to remove the ice from our 
eyes, and it was with the utmost difficulty that we could speak so 
as to understand one another." 

"Nevertheless, Carrel continued to direct the descent in a most 
admirable manner, with a coolness, ability, and energy above all praise. 
1 was delighted to see the change, and Gorret assisted him splendidly. 
This part of the descent presented unexpected difficulties, and at 
several points great dangers, the more so because the tourmente pre- 
vented Carrel from being sure of the right direction, in spite of his 
consummate knowledge of the Matterhom. At 11 P.M. (or there- 
abouts — it was impossible to look at our watches, as all our clothes 
were half frozen) we were still toiling down the rocks. The guides 
sometimes asked each other where they were ; then we went forward 
again — to stop, indeed would have been impossible. Carrel at last, 
by marvellous instinct, discovered the passage up which we had come, 
and in a sort of grotto we stopped a minute to take some brandy." 

" While crossing some snow we saw Carrel slacken his pace, and 
then fall two or three times to the ground. Gorret asked him what 
was the matter, and he said * nothing,' but he went on with difficulty. 
Attributing this to fatigue through the excessive toil, Gorret put 
himself at the head of the caravan, and Carrel, after the change, 
seemed better, and walked well, though with more circumspection 
than usual. From this place a short and steep passage takes one 
down to the pastures, where there is safety. Gorret descended first, 
and I after him. We were nearly at the bottom when I felt the 
rope pulled. We stopped, awkwardly placed as we were, and cried 
out to Carrel several times to come down, but we received no answer. 
Alarmed, we went up a little way, and heard him say, in a faint 
voice, *Come up and fetch me, I have no strength left.'" 

"We went up and found that he was lying with his stomach to 
the ground, holding on to a rock, in a semi-conscious state, and 
unable to get up or to move a step. With extreme difficulty we 
carried him up to a safe place and asked him what was the matter. 
His only answer was, * I know no longer where I am.' His hands 
were getting colder and colder, his speech weaker and more broken, 
and his body more still. We did all we could for him, putting with 
great difficulty the rest of the cognac into his mouth. He said 
something, and appeared to revive, but this did not last long. We 
tried rubbing him with snow, and shaking him, and calling to him 
continually ; but he could only answer with moans. 

1 Signer PeraJdo, the innkeeper at Breuil, stated that a relief party was in readiness 
during the whole of August 25 (the day on which the descent was made), and was pre- 
vented from starting by the violence of the tempest. 



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90 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHOBN. 



CHAP. V. 



"We tried to lift hini, but it was impossible — he was getting 
stiff. We stooped down, and asked in his ear if he wished to 
commend his soul to Grod. With a last effort he answered *Yes,' 
and then fell on his back, dead, upon the snow." 

Such was the end of Jean-Antoine Carrel, — a man who was 
possessed with a pure and genuine love of mountains ; a man of 
originality and resource, courage and determination, who delighted in 
exploration. His special qualities marked him out as a fit person to 
take part in new enterprizes, and I pre- 
ferred him to all others as a companion 
and assistant upon my journey amongst 
the Great Andes of the Equator. Going 
to a new country, on a new continent, 
he encountered much that was strange 
and unforeseen ; yet when he turned his 
face homewards he had the satisfaction 
of knowing that he left no failures be- 
hind him.* After parting at Guayaquil 
in 1880, we did not meet again. In his 
latter years, I am told, he shewed signs 
of age, and from information which has 
been communicated to me it is clear that 
he had arrived at a time when it would 
have been prudent to retue — if he could 
have done so. It was not in his nature 
to spare himself, and he worked to the 
very last. The manner of his death 
strikes a chord in hearts he never knew. 
He recognized to the fullest extent the 
duties of his position, and in the closing 
act of his life set a brilliant example of 
fidelity and devotion. For it cannot be 
doubted that, enfeebled as he was, he 
could have saved himself had he given 
his attention to self-preservation. He 
took a nobler course ; and, accepting his 
responsibility, devoted his whole soul to the welfare of his comrades, 
until, utterly exhausted, he fell staggering on the snow. He was 
already dying. Life was flickering, yet the brave spirit said * It is 
nothing.' They placed him in the rear to ease his work. He was 
no longer able even to support himself; he dropped to the ground, 
and in a few minutes expired. 2 

1 See Travels amongst the Great Andes of the Equator, 1892. 

2 Signor Sinigaglia wrote in a letter to a friend, from which I am permitted to 
quote, "I don't try to tell you of my intense pain for Carrel's death. He fell after 
having saved me, and no guide could have done more than he did." Charles Gorret, 
through his brother the Abb6, wrote to me that he entirely endorsed what had been 
said by Sig. Sinigaglia, and added, "We would have given our own lives to have 
saved his." 

Jean-Antoine died at the foot of the 'little staircase.' On the 26th of August his 
body was brought to Breuil, and upon the 29th it was interred at Valtoumanche. At 




CARREL S CROSS. 



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CHAP. V. THE DEATH OF ANDREAS SEILEB, 91 

I very much regret to have to mention yet another tragedy, which 
occurred more recently. On August 7, 1893, Andreas Seiler (one of 
the youngest members of the family of my old friend M. Alexandre 
Seiler) and Johann Biener of Zermatt lost their lives on the south 
side of the Matterhom. Mr. Oscar Gysi, who was closely following 
them, has, at my request, furnished the following statement : — 

"On August 7, shortly before 6 A.M., we left the Lac Noir Hotel, 
crossed the Furgg Joch, and on the Italian side joined the ordinary 
route from Breuil for the Matterhom. There were five of us — Andreas 
Seiler, myself, and as guides Johann Biener (aged 24), Joseph 
Taugwalder (aged 27), and L. Moser of Taesch (aged 22). When 
about an hour below the Col du Lion we tied up, — Seiler insisting 
upon being roped to Biener, with whom he had been climbing all 
the summer. Biener and Seiler were in advance, but we kept well 
together. When we were considerably higher than the T6te du Lion, 
and within about thirty minutes of the hut at the foot of the Great 
Tower, we came to an almost perpendicular chimney, some twenty 
feet high, down which a stout knotted rope hung. Biener and Seiler 
passed up it. We followed, and on arriving at the top Moser took 
off his sac to tie up afresh the wood that he carried. Seiler and 
Biener were impatient to reach the hut, and wished to proceed with- 
out us ; but Taugwalder and Moser asked them to wait. Their words 
were, however, useless. Moser, who had 'warned Seiler repeatedly 
during the last half-hour to be careful, and who did not like their 
over-confidence, prayed Seiler to let him tie himself to their rope. 
Seiler and Biener, however, only laughed at him for his concern, and 
started off. Moser finished tying up his wood, and we went on. 
The others were only five minutes ahead, and we had reached a diffi- 
cult spot, and were standing in steps cut at the top of a small patch 
of ice, at an angle of 50**, and close to rock, when Moser called out, 
'Beware of stones.' We pressed up close to the rock and listened, 
when the two" (Seiler and Biener) "shot past us. We were all 
three close together, and Moser could have touched them with his 
axe. . . I see them still — they were photographed in my mind. They 
were tied together. Seiler passed close to us, his back downwards, 
his head well bent up, as if he were preparing for a sudden shock. 
Biener flew far out against the blue sky, and the rope was stretched 
tightly between them." They fell on to the Glacier du Lion, and 
when the bodies were recovered they were still tied together. " With 
both, the crown of the head was cut away as though it had been 
done by a sharp instrument. . . Seller's watch was crushed, and his 
left boot was missing, although the foot was uninjured. How the 
accident happened will never be known, as no one saw them slip. 
I am inclined to think that Seiler was climbing at the same time as 
Biener, instead of waiting until he had found firm hold, and that 
the former slipped, jerking Biener off his feet. I am strengthened in 
this belief by the position of the two as I saw them fly past." 

the beginning of July, 1803, an iron cross was placed on the ej^t where he expired, 
at the expense of Sig. Sinigaglia, who went in person along with Charles Gorret to 
superintend its erection. 



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CHAPTER VI. 

HOW TO GET TO ZERMATT. 

ROUTE TO TAKE — TIMES, DISTANCES AND FARES — PONTARLIER — AT 
VALLORBES EVERYONE DESCENDS — LAUSANNE AND OUCHY — 
GIBBON AT LAUSANNE — THE LAKE — ST. MAURICE— THE RHONE 
VALLEY — MARTIGNY — SION — SIERRE — SOUSTE — VISP OR VIEGE — 
ALL CHANGE HERE. 

The most direct way to Zermatt either from London or Paris is by 
the Paris, Lyons and Mediterranean Railway, vid Dijon, Pontarlier, 
Vallorbes and Lausanne. The best train for those who wish to 
travel straight through leaves the Gare de Lyon at 8.40 p.m. If 
this is taken, you are landed at Zermatt in the following afternoon, 
in time to settle down before dinner. This train is supposed to 
arrive at Lausanne at 8.40 a.m. (central Europe time). As the 
corresponding train on the Jura-Simplon line [Lausanne to Visp] is 
fixed to leave at 9 a.m., there is apparently time to get something 
in the way of breakfast at Lausanne Buffet. It will be well to reckon 
that there wiU not be time. 

The 8.40 p.m. train is first and second class to Pontarlier, but 
after that it takes third class. It stops 13 times between Paris — 
Lausanne (330 miles, 527 kils.), and does not remain anywhere long 
enough for a meal ! ^ Pay attention to the stomach before leaving 
Paris. The train in correspondence from Lausanne to Visp is a 
civilized one, with dining-cars (which were started in 1895). It is 
better to take advantage of these cars than to attempt a meal at 
Lausanne. They are not yet much patronized, — passengers probably 
being under the impression that extra charges are made for their use, 
and that prices are high. There is no extra charge, and the prices 
are fair. ** Premier dejeuner (Caf6, Caf6 au lait, Th6 ou Ghocolat, 
avec pain et beurre), 1.50. Diner, table d'hdte, 3.50." The carte des 
vins extends from Beer at 80 centimes a bottle to ' Pommery extra 
dry.' The * Mont d'Or Johannisberg ' is a good wine for the morning. 

Try to sleep as far as D61e. At Pontarlier look out for coffee. The 
high road which will be seen here near the line is memorable as that 
which was traversed by the retreating, demoralized Bourbaki Army, 
during the Franco-German war. At Vallorbes (2520 feet, 768 metres ; 

i Lausanne deserves a better and more rapid train service from Paris. A step in 
the right direction will be made this year. From the 12th of July, 1897, twice a week 
durinj^ the season, the Paris, Lyons and Mediterranean Railway will run a new train 
in llf hours from Paris to Lausanne vid Pontarlier, composed exclusively of sleeping- 
cars (1st cl. only). These trains will leave Paris at 11.15 p.m. (Paris-Nord Stn.). Similar 
trains will leave Lausanne at 9.60 p.m. for Paris vid Pontarlier, and Avill arrive in Paris 
Gare de Lyon) at 7.25 a.m. Make enquiry. 



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CHAP. VI. 



THE ROUTE TO TAKE. 



93 



pop. 2147) there is the Swiss Custom-house. Everyone gets down. 
[This place is three miles from the eastern end of the Lac de Joux, 
a charming sheet of water 5J miles long, in the heart of the Jura, 
not much known to English.] In the next 25 miles the line descends 




SCALE OF MILES 



PARIS TO PONTARLIER, VALLORBES AND LAUSANNE. 

1160 feet, with many windings, upon the Lake of Geneva, and passes 
a constant succession of beautiful views on each side. Six kils. before 
arriving at Lausanne it joins the railway coming from Geneva. 

Lausanne Station ^ (1476 feet, 450 metres) is situated between the 
town of Lausanne and Ouchy, its port on the Lake of Geneva. Change 
here f(yr Zermatt. Hotel Terminus et Buffet de la Gare (at 
the Station), 50 beds. Lausanne. — Hotels — Hotel-Pension Beau- 

1 In the middle of the day, during the height of the season, this is a place to be 
shunned. There are too many travellers and too few porters. 



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94 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTEBHOBN. 



CHAP. VI. 



Dist. 
kils. 


Stations. 


Times. 


Ist 01. 


2nd 01. 


3rd 01. 


Paris .... dep. 


8.40 p.m. 


fr. c. 


fr. c. 


fr. c. 


155 


,, to Laroche (B) . arr. 


11.3 „ 


17 36 


11 60 


7 65 


315 


Dijon (B) . do. 


1.33 a.m. 


35 30 


23 80 


16 50 




dep. 


1.38 „ 


Fares 


from 


Dijon 


347 


,, Auxonne . arr. 


2.11 „ 


3 60 


2 40 


1 60 


362 


„ Dole(B) . do. 


2.28 , 


5 25 


3 55 


2 30 


387 


„ Arc-Senans . do. 


3.12 „ 


8 05 


5 45 


3 56 


394 


„ Mouchard(B) do. 
dep. 


3.22 „ 
3.30 „ 


8 85 


5 95 


3 90 


430 


,, Boujeailles . arr. 


4.37 „ 


12 90 


8 70 


5 65 


465 


„ Pontarlier (B) do. 


5.9 „ 


14 80 


10 00 


6 50 




dep. 


6.36 „ 


Fares 


from 


Pontarlier 


472 


,, Hopitaux-Jougne arr. 


6.4 „ 


1 90 


1 30 


85 


481 


VaUorbes . do. 


6.201,, 


2 96 


2 00 


1 30 




dep. 


7.362,, 


Fares 


from 


VaUorbes 




„ La Sarraz . arr. 


8.10 „ 










„ Cossonay . do. 


8.20 „ 








527 




8.40 „ 


7" 70 


5 "36 


3"70 




dep. 


9.0 „ 


Fares 


from 


Lausanne 


546 


,, Vevey . . arr. 


9.28 „ 


2 00 


1 40 


1 00 


551 


,, Clarens . . do. 


9.36 „ 


2 60 


1 75 


1 25 


552 


„ Montreux . do. 


9.40 „ 


2 60 


1 85 


1 30 


564 


„ Territet-Glion do. 


9.43 „ 


2 80 


2 00 


1 40 


555 


,, Veytaux-Chillon do. 
,, Villeneuve . do. 




2 96 


2 05 


1 45 


557 


9.51" „ 


3 16 


2 20 


1 60 


567 


,, Aigle . . do. 


10.6 „ 


4 20 


2 95 


2 10 


675 


„ Bex . . do. 


10.20 „ 


5 00 


3 50 


2 50 


579 


„ St. Maurice (B) do. 


10.28 „ 


5 40 


3 80 


2 70 




dep. 


10.40 „ 


Fares 


from 


St. Maurice 


586 


,, Evionnaz . arr. 




76 


55 


40 


589 


,, Vemayaz-Salvan do. 


10.66' „ 


1 05 


75 


65 


594 


,, Martigny . do. 


11.5 „ 


1 60 


1 10 


80 


599 


„ Charrat-Fully do. 




2 10 


1 60 


1 05 


603 


,, Saxon . . do. 


11.17' „ 


2 50 


1 76 


1 25 


608 


,, Riddes . . do. 




3 06 


2 15 


1 50 


613 


,, Ardon . . do. 




3 66 


2 60 


1 80 


620 


„ Sion(B) . do. 
dep. 


11.37' „ 
11.40 „ 


4 30 


3 00 


2 15 


626 


,, St. Leonard . arr. 




4 90 


3 46 


2 45 


629 


,, Granges . do. 




5 20 


3 65 


2 60 


636 


,, Sierre (Siders) do. 


12.1 'p.m. 


6 95 


4 20 


3 00 


640 


,, Salquenen . do. 
„ Lou^che (Souste) do. 




6 36 


4 45 


3 20 


645 


12.20' „ 


6 90 


4 86 


3 45 


650 


,, Tourtemagne do. 




7 40 


6 20 


3 70 


654 


,, Gampel . do. 




7 80 


5 60 


3 90 


658 


,, Rarogne . do. 




8 26 


5 80 


4 10 


666 


„ Vi6ge(Visp)(B) do. 


12.43 „ 


8 95 


6 30 


4 50 




dep. 


1.6 „ 


Fares 


from 


Visp 
10 00 


700 


„ Zermatt . arr. 


3.25 „ 




16 00 



J^.5.— Alterations may occur in the times of Arrival and Departure. Make enquiry, 
(B^ aifimifles Buffet. 1 Paris time. 2 Central Eurone iimf>. 



(B) signifies Buffet. 



Oentral Europe time. 



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CHAP. VI. LAUSANNE AND OUCHY. 95 

S^JOUR (near the Station), 100 beds; Hotel National et Pension 
Gallo (near the Station), 30 beds; Hotel et Pension Ste. Luce 
(near the Station), 25 beds ; Hotel Gibbon (central), 100 beds ; Grand 
Hotel Riche-Mont (central), 100 beds; Hotel du Grand-Pont 
(central), 75 beds ; Hotel Beau-Site et du Belv^dIire (central), 40 
beds ; Hotel des Messageries (central), 50 beds ; Hotel du Faucon, 
60 beds; Hotel du Nord, 40 beds; Hotel et Pension Bellevue, 
30 beds ; Hotel et Pension Victoria, 50 beds ; Pension Campart 
(on the road from Lausanne to Ouchy), 50 beds ; Pension Grancy- 
VlLLA, 45 beds. 

Ouchy (1247 feet, 380 metres).— Hotel Beau-Rivage, 200 beds; 
and Hotel du ChAteau (picturesque building, close to the Lake), 
80 beds. These two hotels, though separate buildings, are under the 
same management. Hotel d'Angleterre (close to the Lake), 40 
beds ; HOTEL DU PoRT (small). 

Lausanne is situated upon slopes facing the south, commanding 
admirable views of the Lake and of the mountains at its eastern 
end, and has long been a favourite place with English. The upper 
part of the town is several hundred feet above the railway station. 
Pop. in 1888, 34,049 (28,829 Protestant, 4793 Catholic), is said to 
have increased considerably of late. Those who have time to spare 
will do well to stop a while either at Ouchy or Lausanne, as, in 
addition to their own attractions, they are excellent centres for 
excursions. Steamers from Ouchy convey one to any part of the 
Lake. Besides the line to Vallorbes and Pontarlier by which we 
came, and the other around the eastern end of the Lake and up the 
Rhone Valley (by which we shall depart), there are railways to 
Geneva (one hour, by express) and to Bern viA Fribourg (98 kils. in 
2 hrs. 20 min.). On the former line there are many beautiful views 
of the Lake, and the latter passes through very picturesque country. 
Ouchy is connected by a rope tramway with Lausanne Railway 
Station and Lausanne. Trams run each way about every 15 min. 
Fares 40 and 20 centimes. It takes 20 min. to walk to Ouchy from 
Lausanne Station. 

Although there has been a good deal of rebuilding at Lausanne, 
a considerable number of ancient houses remain clustered around the 
Cathedral, which is situated in the higher part of the town. Ad- 
mittance to it can be obtained from 9 to 12, and from 1 to 4 free. 
At other times 50 centimes are charged. The tower can be ascended, 
and there is a superb view from it. The tower and west front are 
now undergoing restoration. An old staircase called Escaliers du 
March4 leads down from the Cathedral to the market-place, which 
is worth seeing at busy times. The Mtis^e Cantonal (zoological and 
archaeological) is close to the Cathedral. From the terrace in front 
of the Tribunal F^d4ral there is a very fine view of the Lake and of 
the Alps on its farther side. The town of Evian-les-Bains lies almost 
immediately opposite. The most prominent mountain beyond the head 
of the Lake (a little to the right) is the Dent du Midi (10,777 feet, 
3285 metres). There are sometimes cheap excursions from Lausanne 
to Zermatt, at inclusive fares for rail and hotel. Enquire. 



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96 ZERMATT AND THE MATTEBHOBN. chap. VI. 

Gibbon the Historian had much to do with Lausanne and in 
making it known to his countrymen. He knew it in his youth, and 
lived there in his maturity. ** You have often read," he said, ** and 
heard the descriptions of this delightful Country, the banks of the 
lake of Greneva, and indeed it surpasses all description. A stranger 
is struck with surprise and admiration." After settling down there 
with the purpose of completing his *^ Decline and Fally'^ he wrote to 
Lord Sheffield in 1784— 

**This place has in every respect exceeded my best and tnost sanguine hopes. 
How often have you said, as often as I expressed any ill-humour against the 
hurry, the expence, and the precarious condition of my London life, ' Ay, that 
is a nonsensical scheme of retiring to Lausanne that you have got into your 
head, — a pretty fancy ; you remember how much you liked it in your youth, 
but you have now seen more of the World, and u you were to try it again, 
you would find yourself most woefully disappointed.' I had it in my head, in 
my heart; I have tryed it; I have not been disappointed." 

And a little later, in a letter to his stepmother, he wrote — 

"I have enjoyed a winter of the most perfect health that I have perhaps 
ever known, without any mixture of the little flying incommodities which in 
my best days have sometimes disturbed the tranquiUity of my English life. . . 
I command a boimdless prospect of vale, mountain, and water. . . A Terrace, 
one hundred yards long, extends beyond the front of the House, and leads 
to a close impenetrable shrubbery ; and from thence the circuit of a long 
and various walk, carries me round a meadow and a vineyard. . . Few 
persons, either princes or philosophers, enjoy a more desirable residence." ^ 
Pnvate Lettet's of Edward Oibbon, 3 vols. 8vo, London, 1897 ; vol. ii, pp. 89, 
103-4. 

On resuming the journey by the Jura-Simplon Railway, secure a 
seat on the side of the Lake. Points of view are very numerous, and 
we should not get to Zermatt this season if we stopped to look at 
half of them. The attractions of this comer of the Lake have caused 
the establishment of a multitude of Hotels and Pensions. The region 
is a Paradise for Pensionnaires. Vevey, pop. 8144, is about 12 miles 
from Lausanne, and Clarens, another favourite spot, is 2h miles farther 
on. Then conies Montreux, and the next station is Territet-Glion, 
whence a very steep railway leads to the Rochers-de-Naye (6723 feet), 
a noted panoramic station, with a view extending Northwards to the 
Bernese Oberland and in the contrary direction to the Range of Mont 
Blanc. In less than a mile more the famous Castle of ChiUon is 
passed. Villeneuve, pop. 1471, is the terminal point of the steamers. 
Two miles and a half away to the West the River Rhone falls into 
the Lake, and deposits there an enormous mass of matter brought 
down from the mountains. 

The line now enters the Rhone Valley, and after passing Aigle, 
pop. 3555 (the station for Sepey, Ormont-dessous, and Ormont- 
dessus), and Bex, pop. 4420 (noted for its salt-mines and salt-baths), 
quits the Canton Vaud, and crossing to the left bank of the river, 
enters the Canton Valais. Shortly afterwards it passes through a 
small tunnel and arrives at 

1 Part of the ^rounds of the house in which Gibbon lived from 1783 to 17&8 is now 
occupied by the Hotel Gibbon. 



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CHAP. VI. 



ST. MAURICE TO MARTIGNY. 



97 



St. Maurice (St. Moritz), 1368 feet, 417 metres; pop. 1666. Buffet 
good. Hotel Grisogono (close to the Station). This is one of the 
oldest places in the Canton. The Abbey here is said to have been 
founded in the 4th century. The town lies about midway between 
the Dent du Midi (on its West) and the Dent de Morcles, 9639 feet, 
2938 metres (on its East). While in the Station, notice the Hermit- 
age on the West, and the curious path to it, winding up the cliff. 

[At St. Maurice the line from the N. shore of the Lake of Geneva meets 
that coming from Geneva round the S. side of the Lake, viA Annemasse, 
Thonon, Evian and Bouveret. This latter line belongs to the Paris, Lyons 
and Mediterranean Railway. It is the best route to take if going from St. 
Maurice to Geneva, or to Chamonix. The first station upon this line is at 
Monthey (7 kils. from St. Maurice), at the entrance of the Val d'llliez, famous 
for its remarkable assemblage of erratic blocks, some of which are 60 to 70 
feet long. See Egsai sur les Glaciers et sur le terrain erraiique du bassin dn 
Itkone, by Jean de Charpentier, Svo, Lausanne, 1841 ; pp. 134-143.] 




LAUSANNE TO VISP AND ZERMATT. 



Soon after leaving St. Maurice the valley begins to open out 
again. Between the stations Evionnaz and Vemayaz the Pissevaclie 
fall is passed, and can be seen very well from the windows of the 
train. Yernayaz (Hotel de la Gare, close to the station ; simple 
place, civil people) is the station for those who wish to proceed to 
Chamonix md Salvan. For Plan, see my Guide to Chamonix and 
the Range of Mont Blanc, Svo, London, 1897 ; chap. xiv. One can 
walk to Salvan in 70 min. from Vemayaz and return in 40 min. 
It is also the station for the Gf-orges of Trient, which are 12 min. 
walk distant. One of the finest ravines in the Alps ; cool and com- 
fortable on the hottest day, with good hotel Grand Hotel des 
Gorges du Trient two minutes from the entrance. The railway 
hereabouts runs close alongside the great Simplon Road. A round 

H 



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98 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. vi. 



tower (la Batiaz) will be seen shortly before arriving at Martigny, 
which is a remnant of a Chdteau that belonged to the early Bishops 
of Sion. 

Martigny, 1539 feet, 475 m^res ; pop. 4731 ; is made up of Martigny- 
Ville, Martigny-Bourg, and Martigny-Combe. It is the station for the 
Great St. Bernard route, or for those going to Chamonix viA the Col 
de Balme or the T6te Noire. Hotels. — Hotel du Grand St. 
Bernard, and Hotel - Pension Restaurant de la Gare, both 
against the Station ; Grand Hotel du Mont Blanc, Hotel Clerc, 




ENOLI8H MILES 



PLAN OF MARTIGNY. 



Hotel de l'Aigle, and Hotel National in Martigny- Ville. At 
Martigny the River Rhone makes a bend at right angles to its lower 
course, the valley broadens considerably, and one can see up it for a 
long distance. One of the most prominent natural features at this 
part (on the south side) is the small but rather striking peak called 
the Pierre a Voir, 8120 feet, 2476 metres ; which, though presenting 
sheer cliff on the side of Saxon and apparently inaccessible, can be 
ascended easily from several directions. Between the stations of 
lliddes and Ardon the base is passed of a mountain called the Haut 
de Cry, 9701 feet, 2956 metres, on which the guide J. J. Bennen and 
others lost their lives on February 28, 1864, through disturbing un- 
consolidated snow. See Scrambles artiongst the Alps, Appendix A. The 
railway crosses to the right bank of the Rhone at Riddes, and 12 kils. 
afterwards arrives at 



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CHAP. VI. SION—SIERRE—SO USTE—TO URTEMA GNE. 99 

Sion (Sitten), 1700 feet, pop. 5513, the capital of the Canton Valais. 
Hotels. — Hotel du Midi; Hotel de la Poste. Get out here for 
the Val (i*H6rens. In the Introduction to the fifth volume of his 
Documents, the Abb6 Gremaud gives many details respecting the 
ecclesiastical and other buildings of Sion. He says that there was a 
Christian Church here hef(yre A.D. 377. The next station after Sion 
is at St. Leonard, where a fierce battle was fought in 1375 (in con- 
sequence of the assassination of Bishop Tavelli, see p. 8), which ended 
in the defeat and flight of the Seigneurs. 

" At the news of this horrible crime, the patriots of Conches, Brigue, Loukihe, 
Sierre and Sion swore that they would avenge the death of their Bishop. 
They flew to arms, and invaded the murderer's domains. Aiter having taken 
the Ch&teau de Granges, they made for that of Ayent" [4 miles N.E. of Sion], 
** but near the bridge of St. Leonard they found themselves in the presence of 
the vassals and allies of Antoine de la Tour. The combat began ; and here, 
as at Loufeche, the seigneurs were conquered by the peasants. The armour 
glittering with gold, and the helmets with their floating plumes, were crushed 
under the avenging clubs. . . Pursuing their victory, they burnt the castles of 
Ayent and Conthey, and then laid siege to that of ChfLtillon." — Hilaire Oay. 

Sierre (Siders), ten miles from Sion, 1765 feet, 538 metres ; pop. 
1342. Hotels.— Hotel Bellevue (good, English landlady) close to 
the station ; Hotel de la Poste. ** Perhaps the most ancient place 
in this part of the Valais, since it is mentioned in the act of founda- 
tion of the Abbey of St. Maurice, a.d. 516." — Ahhi Greinaud. Those 
bound for the Val d'Anniviers (St. Luc and Zinal) get out here. 
Just before arriving at Souste the railway recrosses to the left bank 
of the Rhone. 

Souste or Soste, 2044 feet, 623 metres, is the station for Leuk or 
Loufeche, pop. 1548. There is a decent little restaurant just outside 
the station. Those who are bound for Leukerbad (Lou^che-les-Bains), 
and the Gemmi Pass, get out here. 

[A good pedestrian can go on foot from Suste to Leukerbad as quickly as a 
carriage, as there are two places where much time can be saved by 'cutting 
zigzags,' — one just after crossing the railway, whence the path goes direct to 
the town of Leuk (which is ^0 feet above the Rhone), and avoids a very 
long detour that the road makes towards the East. Enquire the way before 
leaving the Station. The second place where time can be saved by 'cutting' 
is just after crossing the large bridge over the R. Dala. Take the first foot- 
path to the right, which leads direct to the village of Inden, where the road 
IS again rejoined.] 

After passing Souste, the railway runs closely alongside the Rhone 
for 18 kils. Tourtemagne, 2073 feet, 632 metres, is the station for 
the Turtmannthal and Gruben, whence one can go by the Augstbord- 
pass to St. Nicholas in the Nicolaithal. The milage of Turtmann, 
pop. 548 (two hotels), is on the Simplon Road, a kil. south of the 
railway-station. Gf-ampel, 2087 feet, 636 metres, is the station for 
the Lotschenthal. The village is J mile away to the north, at the 
entrance to the valley. A little higher up the Rhone valley, on the 
same side, there is the small village of Bas-Chfttillon or Niedergestelen, 
with the ruins of the castle (destroyed in 1379) which was the 



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100 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. vi. 



stronghold of the De la Tour family. See chap. i. There was a priory 
here in the 14th century. [Gremaud, vol. v, p. civ.] 

The next station, Barogne (Baron), 2113 feet, 644 metres, is not 
at that village, but lies about midway between it and the miserable 
hamlet Turtig (no inn), on the Simplon Road. The way to the 
Ginanzthal lies through Turtig. See chap. viL The Rarogne family 
was one of the most important in the Yalais. See chap. i. The 
Abb^ Gremaud says that its origin **is very uncertain," and that 
the first Rarogne known was Henri, who was living in 1210, and was 
vidomne of Lou^che and Rarogne. The Church of Rarogne, which 
will be seen perched on a rock, was built in 1512 on the site of a 
castle that was burnt in 1417. — Abb^ Rameau, 

About 4 kils. after passing Rarogne, the railway leaves the Rhone 
and makes for the entrance to the Vispthal. Get your small things 
together, for in a few minutes you will be at Visp (Buffet, good), 
where, as there is break of gauge, all for Zermatt miist change. 



TO BALTSCHIEOEn 




A. HOTEL DE LA POSTE. B. HOTEL DES ALPES. C. HOTEL DU SOLEIL. 



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CHAPTER VII. 

UPON THE VALLEY OF ZERMATT (NICOLAI THAL). 

VISP — THE ZERMATT RAILWAY AND THE ABT SYSTEM — NEUE BRUCKE 
— STALDEN — TORBEL — KALPETRAN — ST. NICHOLAS— ASCENTS FROM 
ST. NICHOLAS — PASSES FROM ST. NICHOLAS — BIRTHPLACE OF THOMAS 
PLATTER — HERBRIGGEN — RANDA — ASCENTS OF THE WEISSHORN, 
DOM, TASCHHORN, ETC. — PASSES FROM RANDA — TASCH — THE 
TASCH ALP AND VALLEY — ASCENTS OF THE ALLALIN, ALPHUBEL, 
AND RIMPFISCHHORN — PASSES FROM THE TASCH VALLEY — TASCH 
TO ZERMATT. 

Visp, Viege or Vispach, 2165 feet, 660 metres ; 838 inhabitants ; 
formerly called Vesbia, Vespia, or Vespie, is the chief town {chef-lieu) 
of a district in the Canton Valais,i to which it gives its name. The 
District de Vi^ge (or Bezirk Visp) contains 21 Communes, namely — 



Name. 


Pop. 


Name. 




Pop. 


Almagel (Almengell) . 


. 207 


Randa (Randah) . 


. 229 


Balen (AbaUa) . 


. 172 


St. Niklaus (St. Nicolas) 


. 809 


Baltschieder (Balschieder) 


. 152 


Stalden 


. 409 


Emd (Embd, Emdt) . 


. 206 


Staldenried . 




. 241 


Eisten (Eysten) . 


. 222 


Tasch . 




. 231 


Eyholz (Eiholz) . 


. 172 


Torbel . 




. 551 


Y6e (Fee) . 


. 236 


Visp (Vispach, Vi^e) 




. 838 


Grachen 


. 336 


Visperterbinen . 




. 605 


Grunden 


. 35 


Zeneggen (Eggen) 




. 240 


Grund, im (Gruden, Saas) 


. 386 


Zermatt 




. 525 


Lalden .... 


. 163 


Tol 


^1 


. 6964 



Several of these Communes [Baltschieder, Eyholz, Grunden and Lalden], 
though near Visp, are in the Rhone Valley. 

Hotels.— Hotel des Alpes (close to the Railway Stations) ; Hotel 
DE LA Poste ; HoTEL DU SoLEiL. Buffet at the Jura-Simplon Station 
good, prices reasonable ; beer 25 centimes per glass. Post and Tele- 
graph. Numerous general shops. Persons going by rail to Stalden, 
and intending to proceed to Saas, do well to arrange for mules or 

1 The Canton Yalais (Kanton Wallis) had a population at the last (1888) census of 
101,837 persons. Its area is 6247 square kilometres, of which more than half are classed 
* unproductive soil.' Of the unproductive soil, 971 sq. kils. are occupied hy glaciers. In 
area the Yalais is the third largest of the Swiss Oantons, hut in population it stands 
twelfth. It has a smaller proportion of population to area than any of the Oantons, 
with the exception of Uri and Orisons. It is the most strictly Catholic Canton in the 
Confederation, there being nearly 117 Catholics to every Protestant. See Nouvel Indi- 
cateur des Communes et de la popxdation de la Suisse, par Georges Lambelet, Zurich, 



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'-, if DlfFOUnSPITZE ^ I ■ (t 






v/^lA. 




PLAN OF THE NICOLAI THAL, 8AA8 THAL, ^TC. 

SCALE, FIVE MILES TO ONE INC 



8 THAL, ETC. j 

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CHAP. VII. 



THE ZERMATT RAILWAY, 



103 



porters before starting from Visp. This can be done either at the 
Hotel des Alpes or at the Hotel de la Poste.^ 

The Station of the Zennatt Railway at Visp is alongside that of 
the Jura-Simplon Railway. Tickets for Zermatt and intermediate 
stations are taken at the booking-office of the Jura-Simplon. The 
line is 35 kilometres (or 22 miles nearly) in length. There are sta- 
tions at Stalden, Kalpetran, St. Nicholas, Herbriggen, Randa and 
Tasch. The difference of level between Vifege and Zermatt (3200 
feet) might have been overcome by a ruling gradient of 1 in 36. If 
anything like this had been employed, very heavy and costly works 
would have been necessary ; but they have been avoided by adopting 
the sysUme Abt. Though short tunnels are numerous, there are no 
great cuttings or embankments on the Zermatt Railway. The prin- 
cipal bridge crosses a torrent (Muhlebach) which falls into the Visp- 
bach about half-way between Stalden and Kalpetran. This is 220 
feet long, and 144 feet above the bottom of the ravine. 




THE "SYST^ME ABT." 

The Abt system aims at the avoidance ot heavy works. Where 
the ground is flat the line skims the surface, and where there is an 
abrupt rise in the floor of the vaUey there are steep gradients upon 
which a third, cogged rail {crimaUUre) is laid. The line presents 
therefore a succession of moderate inclines and very rapid ones. In 
some places the railway rises as much as one foot in eight. The third 
rail is not used when the gradients are less than one in forty, and is 
laid over only five miles. It is composed of two plates of steel which 
are bolted together in such a manner that the cogs alternate. The 
engines have two mechanisms — one for the ordinary rails and the other 
for the cHmailUre. It is said that there are never less than four cogs 
or teeth biting at a time. In ascending the steep inclines the pace 
drops to four miles an hour and less. Great caution is used in 
descending ; and, on the sections with the cr^maUUre^ the trains 

1 Visp was formerly considered unhealthy, probably from its proximity to marshes. 
Dr. Schiner says (in his Descrip. du D4p. du Simplon), "it is undoubtedly these marshes 
. . . that produce in the lower part of Vi6ge, in summer, the innumerable swarms of 
flies and gnats which destroy rest at this season, and disgust one by seeing the dishes 
covered with these tiresome insects." Since the embankment of the Rhone, there is 
much less marsh land in the Valais, and musquitoes have diminished at Visp. 



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104 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHOBN, chap. vii. 



seldom travel so fast as three miles an honr. There are several 
guardians to watch the line, who inspect the whole of it between 
the passage of each train. The early trains, during the season, are 
generally overfilled with passengers, eager to see the views. The 
evening ones are less crowded. The trains from Visp to Zermatt 
wait for those of the Jura-Simplon Railway, and sometimes wait a 
considerable length of time. Tickets from Visp to Zermatt, or from 
Zermatt to Visp permit the holders to descend at intermediate stations 
and resume the journey by a later train, but they are only good for 
the day on which they are issued. Return tickets are good for two 
days. The Fares are — 





Single 


Fares. 


Return Tickets. 




2nd 01. 


3rd CI. 


2nd CI. 


SrdCl. 




fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


Visp to Stalden . 


. 3.55 


2.25 


6.40 


4. — 


,, Kalpetran . 


. 4.90 


3.05 


8.80 


5.50 


„ St. Nicholas 


. 7.55 


4.75 


13.60 


8.50 


„ Herbriggen 


. 9.80 


6.10 


17.60 


11.— 


„ Randa 


.11.55 


7.25 


20.80 


13.— 


„ Tasch 


. 13. 35 


8.35 


24.— 


15.— 


„ Zermatt . 


. 16.— 


10.— 


28.80 


18.— 



Visp is picturesquely situated on the left bank of the Rhone 
Valley, at the entrance to the Visp Thai. Five miles to the south 
this valley divides, — the western branch (the Valley of St. Nicholas 
or Nicolai Thai) leading to Zermatt, and the eastern one (Valley of 
Saas or Saas Thai) to the villages of Saas and Saas-F^e, and to the 
Monte Moro Pass. 

There are a remarkable number of points of view in the Nicolai 
Thai (Valley of Zermatt), some of which are only seen from the pathy 
and others only from the railway. A tourist who wishes to obtain 
a comprehensive idea of the valley should go one way by the path. 
The hotels on the route are at convenient distances apai-t. Some of 
the points of view ai'e indicated by arrows upon the four little plans 
which accompany the text. The walking times between the several 
villages are about these — 

Ascending. Descending, 

h. min. 
Visp to Stalden 
Stalden to St. Nicholas 
St. Nicholas to Kanda 
Kanda to Tasch 
Tasch to Zermatt . 
Total . 

The path to Zermatt turns rather sharply to the right at the 
southern end of Visp [the other path leading straight on goes to 
Visperterbinen, 4396 feet, 1340 metres, pop. 605, a village seldom 
visited by tourists. A church was built there in 1256], and soon gets 
near the Visp torrent. So far as Stalden it is a fairly good mule-path, 
but it has scarcely been improved during the last forty years. When 
the largely increasing number of visitors rendered a road from Visp 





h. 


min. 


. 1 


30 




1 


55 




1 


45 
40 




1 


5 




6 


55 





h. 


min. 


Zermatt to Tasch . 




55 


Tasch to Randa . 




35 


Randa to St. Nicholas . 


! 1 


30 


St. Nicholas to Stalden . 


. 1 


45 


Stalden to Visp . 


. 1 


15 


Total . 


. 6 





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CHAP. VII. 



VISP TO STALDEN. 



105 



to Zermatt desirable, it was not found possible to carry one right 
through. Though some support was rendered by the natives at the 
southern end of the valley, the objections of 
the northern communes could not be over- 
come ; and, at the present time, while there 
is a carriage road in the southern and upper 
end of the valley, at the northern end [Visp 
to St. Nicholas] the vavlQ-path retains its 
primitive simplicity. 

For the first five kils.i from Visp the road 
and railway keep close together. Numerous 
vineyards hereabouts. But at None Brucke 
(2280 feet, 695 metres) the path crosses to 
the left bank of the stream by a bold single- 
arch bridge. The mountains seen in front 
when coming up this part of the valley are 
at the Northern end of the Saas Grat or 
range of the Mischabelhomer (separating 
the Nicolai Thai from the Saas Thai). The 
snow peak is the Balfrin (Balenflm), 12,473 
feet, and the tooth of rock a little to its 
right is the Gabelhom, 10,276 feet, hitherto 
unascended. At 6 kils. from Visp the rail- 
way also crosses the torrent, and commences 
the ascent of the first of the steep inclines, 
upon which the third, cogged rail is laid. 

Stalden, 2608 feet, 795 metres ; pop. 409 ; 
is 7^ kHs. from Visp and 27^ kils. from Zer- 
matt. Travellers by rail change here for 
Saas. Post and Telegraph. Hotel. — Hotel 
Stalden (kept by the Proprietors of the 
Hotel de la Poste at Visp, who are also Pro- 
prietors of three hotels at Saas-F6e). The 
path to the Saas Thai leads past the Railway 
Station. See Chapter on the Valley of Saas. 

"Stalden, says a Latin Chronicle, had 
its own particular lords, but they sold their 
property to the natives, and went over to 
the Valley of Aosta. Their tower is still in 
existence, but the inhabitants are free." — 
Ahbi Rameau. A good deal of Muscat wine 
is made in this neighbourhood. It used to 
be procurable at 70 to 80 centimes a bottle. 
Prices have risen. 

A pleasant excursion can be made from 
Stalden to Torbel, one of the oldest villages 
in the valley, pop. 551, which, though not far 

1 The distances marked upon the accompanying Plans in the text (Visp to Stalden, 
Stalden to St. Nicholas, etc.) are according to the kilometre posts on the Raiivmy. 
They give also a fair idea of the distances by road. 




VISP TO STALDEN. 



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106 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. vii. 



away, is out of sight. About 1^ hs. going up ; 30 min. descending. 
Torbel is situated on a slope facing the south; and, although 4892 
feet high, is warmer and more sunny than the viUages lower down, 
which for a large part of the day are shut out from the sun. Red 
currants ripen there. Torbel has a reputation for cheese. Anyone 
who expects to stand a long siege should buy it, for it is said that 
it will keep for fifty years ! ^ The Church of Torbel was consider- 
ably damaged by the earthquake of 1855, and its roof fell in. 




NEUE BRUCKE. 



"T-^^^ 



'of 



" I had an opportunity at Stalden," said Prof. J. D. Forbes, 
witnessing here a remarkable scene on my last visit." 

"A comedy was to be acted by peasants dressed in costume, who were to 
perform on a stage erected in the open air. There were not less than forty 
actors, the female parts being performed by men, and the costumes were 
elaborately and ingeniously devised — in some cases not without propriety and 
taste. I was able to remain long enough to see only the opening of the piece 
named Rom von Tannenhurg, which was preluded by a procession of the actors, 
amongst the most conspicuous of whom were three devils attired in tight suits 
of black, with horns and tails, the senior wearing goat's horns and the sub- 
ordinates those of the chamois. The entertainment was under the immediate 
patronage, and even direction of the clergy. The morning mass at Saas was 
said that day at four, instead of five o'clock, in order to allow the pastor and 
his flock to reach Stalden in good time, and one of the vicaires of Stalden (who 

1 Lord Minto, when at St. Nicholas in 1830, was struck hy the cheese that was set 
before him by the Cur6. " I had coveted," he said, " the remains of a delightful piece 
of old cheese upon which we had feasted . . . and he presented it to me. . . The prize 
which I carried oflf was about twenty years old, perfectly fresh and pvmgent, like a fine 
old ewe-milk cheese in Scotland. . . We had one cheese put before us which we were 
told was thirty years old ; it was perfectly fresh and good." 



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CHAP. VII. 



STALDEN. 



107 



correspond to our curates) seemed to be the master of ceremonies, for he was 
frequently seen in earnest conversation with the junior devil with the chamois 




The Fares from Stalden are- 



honici. I mu>^t tiddj thut the aotsuB was 
one of the moi^t rouijmtit: which can be 
tfjncoived. Behind the Wllago wjifi a 
truly imbural theatre » with ii green 
fUttHlow fur the pit, vhile it ranga of 
luiv cliffs, with u corii;ave frirmt fes- 
tfxtntid with ivy and bni^hwiJuH^l, rtipi'e- 
^utijd tho lx>jtos und gallery' /^ — TtHfelis 
through the Alps of Savoy , pp. 354-5. 



Single 


Fares. 


Return Tickets. 


2nd CI. 


3rd 01. 


2nd 01. 


3rd 01. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


3.55 


2.50 


6.40 


4. — 


1.80 


1.15 


3.20 


2. — 


4. — 


2.50 


7.20 


4.50 


6. 70 


4.20 


12.— 


7.50 


8. 45 


5.30 


15.20 


9.50 


10.25 


6.40 


18.40 


11.50 


12.45 


7.80 


22.40 


14.- 



Stalden to Visp (Vifege) 
Kalpetran . 
St. Nicholas 
Herbriggen 
Randa 
Tasch . 
Zermatt 

A pedestrian bound for Zermatt, on leaving Stalden, will save 
time by taking the path which leads away in front of the Hotel. 
Between Stalden and Kalpetran, the prominent peak seen to the south 
(i.e. looking up the valley) is the Brunneggliom, 12,619 feet, 3846 
mHres. The summit of the Weisshom, 14,803 feet, 4512 metres, can 
also be seen behind the Brunnegghom (a little to its right), from 
Stalden nearly up to Kalpetran. The large bridge over the Muhlebach 
is passed just before kil. 9, and shortly afterwards the path for a 
kilometre and a half is of a superior order, and is carried along a 
shelf cut out of the slopes, nearly at a level. The Mattervisp torrent, 
at this pait, runs through a deep gorge or defile, which is better seen 
from the railway than from the path. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



108 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. vil. 



Kalpetran, 10-9 kils. from Visp, 24-1 kils. from Zermatt; 2907 
feet, 886 metres. This is only a small group of cMlets, no inn.i 
The path crosses here to the right bank of the torrent, and the 
railway does the same at kil. 12. The Fares from Kalpetran are — 





Single 


Fares. 


Return Tickets. 




2nd a. 


Srd 01. 


2nd 01. 


3rd 01. 




fr. cte. 


fr.cts. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


Kalpetran to Visp (Vi^e) 


. 4.90 


3.05 


8.80 


5.50 


„ Stalden . 


. 1.80 


1.15 


3.20 


2.00 


„ St. Nicholas 


. 2. 70 


1.70 


4. 80 


3.00 


„ Herbriggen 


. 4.90 


3.05 


8.80 


5.50 


„ Randa . 


. 6.70 


4.20 


12.00 


7.50 


Tasch . 


. 8.45 


5.30 


15.20 


9.50 


,, Zermatt . 


. 11. 15 


6.95 


20.00 


12.50 







BRIDGE OVER THE MUHLEBACH. 



From kil. 12 to kil. 14 the railway runs immediately alongside 
the torrent, and gives excellent views of its tumultuous eddyings. 
This is one of the most interesting parts of the line. Keep on the 
side of th^ water. These views cannot be seen from the path, which 
mounts high above the stream, and at this part becomes undulatory. 
At kil. 14 the railway recrosses to the left bank, and mounts to St. 
Nicholas (Niklaus or Nicolas). The ascending and descending trains 
frequently pass here, and a long halt is usually made. There is a 
Buffet, with little to eat. Beer 30 centimes per glass. 

1 It is mentioned under the name Kalpotran in a document of 1339 [Oremaud, No. 

1788]. 



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CHAP. VII. ST, NICHOLAS (NIKLAUS OR NICOLAS). 



109 



St. Niklaus (Nicolas), 3678 feet, 1121 
metres ; pop. 809 ; 16 kils. from Visp, 19 
kils. from Zermatt. Post and Telegraph. 
Barber (shaving 20 centimes), Tailor, Baker, 
Shoemaker, Watchmaker and general shop. 
Hotels : Grand Hotel-Pension St. Nicolas 
(in middle of village) ; Hotel-Pension Loch- 
matter^ (southern end of village). English 
Church Service (C.C.C.S.) is held on Sundays 
in the School Room. 

St. Nicholas is the largest Commune in 
the Valley. The Village is in an agreeable 
position, on the left bank of and close to 
the Mattervisp torrent. It is warmer than 
Zermatt, and cooler than Visp. In winter 
there is not ordinarily at any time more than 
a m^tre of snow on the ground. In July 
and August temperature seldom sinks so low 
as 45** F. at night, or rises above 72** F. in 
the day ; and, as a number of small and 
easy excursions can be made from it, it is 
one of the most eligible places in the Valley. ^ 
There is a carriage - road to Zermatt, and 
voUures can be had at a somewhat lower 
cost (for three or more persons) than third- 
class railway fares. 

The principal mountaiiis visible from the 
village are the Brunnegghom, 12,619 feet, 
3846 metres ; the Petit Cervin, 12,750 feet, 
3866 metres; and the Breithom, 13,685 feet, 
4171 metres. Slightly S. of E. of St. Nicholas 
there is a mountain called the Gabelhorn (not 
to be confounded with the Ober and Unter 
Gabelhoms at Zermatt), which has not been 
ascended, and is reputed to be inaccessible. 
The height given for it on the Siegfried Map 
is 3135 metres (10,276 feet), and seen from 
St. Nicholas it is apparently higher than the 
Platthom, lying a little to its south, to which 
the height of 3249 metres (10,660 feet) is 
assigned. The true summit of the Platthom, 
however, is not seen from St. Nicholas. At 
the top of the Gabelhom there are two rocky 
towers, — the northern is the loftier, and is the culminating point of 

1 Kept by Mons. Alexandre Lochmatter, formerly Guide [see page 68], who is well 
acquainted with the Zermatt district, and has much information for those who are 
interested in the mountaineering history of the VaUey. 

« It appears to be healthy. I was informed by M. the Cur^ in 1894 that he had 
recently buried one of his parishioners who had attained the age of 90, and another 
shortly before who had got to 96 ; and that there were then about 20 persons living of 
the age of 70 and upwards. 



TO ZERMATT 



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no 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. vii. 



the monntain. It is an appetizing morsel for a mountaineer. This 
peak can be seen from Visp (to the right of the Balfrin), and upon 
part of the way between Visp and Stalden. 

The village of St. Nicholas was much damaged by the earthquake 
of 1855, and was not thoroughly restored several years afterwards. 
The Church suffered considerably. This edifice has also been twice 
nearly destroyed by avalanches from the Sparrhorn, which descend 




ST. NICHOLAS. 



through a ravine on the west of the village. An avalanche in 1618 
wrecked the tower and choir, and another in 1750 destroyed the 
remainder. Avalanches fall not unfrequently through this ravine, 
but they are sometimes deflected towards the north, and do no harm. 
The three brothers Knubel who perished on the Lyskamm in 1877 
(see chap, x), and Joseph - Marie Lochmatter who was killed on the 
Dent Blanche in 1882 (see chap, ix) were buried in the churchyard, 
on the east side of the church. 

Excursions from St. Nicholas.— Ascents of the Grabenhom, 11,072 
feet, 3375 metres (12-13 hs.); Gf-abelhorn, lower peak, and Platt- 
horn, 10,660 feet, 3249 metres (10-11 hs.); Ulriclisliorn, 12,891 feet, 
3929 metres (12-13 hs.) ; Hohbergliorn, 13,865 feet, 4226 metres (13- 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



CHAP. VII. PASSES FROM ST. NICHOLAS. Ill 

14 hs.) ; Balfrin (Balenfim or BalMnhorn), 12,473 feet, 3802 metres 
(9-10 hs. ; or it can be crossed to Saas-F6e in about 15 hs.); 
Bnmnegglioni, 12,619 feet, 3846 metres (12-13 hs.); Sparrhom 
(Sparrenhom), 9810 feet, 2990 metres; Festihorn, 10,660 feet, 3249 
metres ; Wasenhorn, 10,958 feet, 3340 metres ; Eothhom, 10,702 feet, 
3262 metres; Stellihom, 11,204 feet, 3415 mHres ; Schwarzhorn, 
10,512 feet, 3204 mHres ; and Barrhorn, 11,880 feet, 3621 m^res 
(from 8 up to 10-11 hours). 

Passes. — The Bied Pass, about 11,800 feet, from St. Niklaus to 
Saas-F^e, between the Balfrin and Ulrichshom (10-12 hs.). This is 
one of the oldest passes between the Nicolai Thai and the Saas Thai. 
The Ferrichjoch or Ferriclilacke, 9479 feet, 2889 metres, between 
the Platthom and Ferrichhom is another pass between the two 
valleys ; and leads either through the village of Gasenried, or that of 
Hellenen, to the south of the Platthom, and descends either to Saas, 
or to Huteggen in the Saas Thai (9-10 hs.). The Gabelhom Pass.— I 
made another pass with Alexandre Lochmatter, in 1895, between St. 
Niklaus and Huteggen, by going over the Gabelhom just below and 
to the south of the towers at the summit. Excluding halts, the time 
occupied was 1 1 hs. This pass is about 690 feet higher than the 
Ferrichjoch. Neither pass can be recommended. In each case, a great 
part of the way near the summit is over loose stones and boulders, 
which are unpleasant to traverse. There is a fourth way of getting 
into the Valley of Saas by passing through the village of Grachen 
and across the Hannig Alp. The top of the Hannig Alp is a good 
place for a pic-nic. ChAlets, milk. This is a route rather than a 
pass. The path upon the Saas Thai side descends on the village of 
Eisten (5-6 hs.),^ or one can go down through forest from the top 
of the Alp to Stalden. Steep way. 

To the West of St. Niklaus the Jungpass, 9823 feet, 2994 metres, 
and the Augstbordpass, 9492 feet, 2893 metres, lead to Gruben in 
the Turtmannthal. Both of these routes go through the village of 
Jungen, 6391 feet, 1948 metres, but they separate shortly after- 
wards, — the former passing between the Furggwanghom, 10,377 feet, 
3163 metres, and the Rothhom, and the latter between the Stein- 
thalhom, 10,213 feet, 3113 metres, and the Schwarzhom. In 1896, 
with Alois Pollinger, I found a way of getting to St. Niklaus from 
Turtig in the Rhone Valley in 9 hs. 25 min., vid the Ginanzthal, 
and this route, should it become known, would I think find favour, 
as it passes through a delightful valley (hitherto quite un visited) 
which affords very pleasant walks. 

The path for the Oinanzthal Pass commences at Turtig, 2123 feet, 647 
metres, and rises steeply towards the south by zigzags through forest. Interest- 
ing view over the Valley of the Rhone and of the mountains on the farther 
side. In IJ hs. it arrives at IJnterbach, situated on open ground, 4036 feet, 
1230 metres ; pop. 336 ; Church ; no regular inn, but food can be obtained. 
[Two kils. to the East there is the village of Birchen, 4751 feet, 1448 metres ; 
pop. 418 ; Church. This is a separate Commune.] The ground here is 

1 This route across the Hannig Alp has been known for a long time. In 1818, Ebel 
said it was frequented by botanists. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



112 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHOBN, chap. vii. 

moderately flat (dotted all over with ch&lets), and cannot be seen from the 
Rhone Valley. Paths in various directions. Enquire the way. In li hs. 
from Unterbach there are the chalets of Waldmatten, 5246 feet, 1599 metres. 
Milk can be had. The path then approaches the stream flowing down the 
Ginanzthal, and keeps near it (on its right bank), up to the head of the 
valley ; passing at first through forest, and in IJ hs. a group of seven 
buildings at the Obere Ginanzalp, 7441 feet, 2268 mHres. End of paths. 
After the banning of September there is no one either here or higher up 
the valley. Steer slightly East of South towards the nameless peak marked 
2962 metres (9718 feet) on the Siegfried Map ; and go to the E. of the little 
lake called the Qinanzsee, 8452 feet, 2576 metres. Grass ends there. Take 
advantage of the snow beds imder peak 2962, and steer S.W. across them to 
the nearest depression on the E. of the Dreizehnenhorn. The summit of the 
Col is 2 hs. from the Obere Ginanz ch&lets, and 50 metres or thereabouts 
lower than peak 2962, — i.e, about 9550 feet above the sea. The ridge that is 
crossed runs almost precisely due East and West. The lake and the upper 
part of the Ginanzthal are well seen from the Col. To the N., Altels, the 
Balmhom, and the Bietschhom are prominent ; towards the E. the view 
includes the Fletschhom, Laquinhorn, and Weissmies, and the entire range of 
the Mischabel ; and turning round to the S. and W. there is first Monte Rosa 
and all between it and the Breithorn, the Brunnegghom and Weisshom, 
Schwarzhom and Dreizehnenhorn. On the southern side of the Col there is 
the (nameless) vallon leading to the Augstbordpass. Descend over stony slopes 
to the bottom of it, turn to the left {Le. east), and go through Jungen to St. 
Nicholas. Time, Col to Jungen, 1 h. 40 min. ; Jungen to St. Nicholas, about 
1 h. 15 min. 

Minor excursions and qniet walks can be taken on the West of 
St. Nicholas to the villages of Jungen, Emd, and Torbel. The path 
to Jungen, 6391 feet, 1948 metres, is in shade most of the way. 
It- starts at the Railway Station. Time ascending, about 1 h. 50 
min. ; descending, 1 h. is quick time. To get to the village of 
Emd,^ go from St. Nicholas by the ordinary path as far as the 
railway bridge at kil. 14. On the western side of this bridge there 
is a small and rather rough path leading in about 2 hs. to Emd 
(4450 feet, 1356 metres, pop. 206), which is situated upon a steep 
slope of the Emderberg, — a prolongation of the lower slopes of the 
Augstbordhom. [I have been unable to find the fowls *shod with 
iron to enable them to keep on their legs,* which are referred to in 
Baedeker's Stoitzerland.'^ From Emd one can either descend to 
Kalpetran Railway Station, or get in 1 h. 20 min. by a fair path to 
Torbel. Descend thence to Stalden, and return home by train. 

Upon the East of St. Nicholas, perhaps the most agreeable little 
excursion that can be made is to the lower Bled G-lacier. This can 
be done either by passing through the village of Gasenried, or, by 
a more direct route, vid the village of Hellenen and the Schallbett 
Alp. The latter way is preferable, as the path passes almost entirely 
through forest, and is in shade. Path good. Time from St. Nicholas 
to the Schallbett Alp, 6916 feet, 2108 metres, 3 hs. The lower 
glacier can be crossed easily. The ' ice-falls ' from the upper glacier 
are well seen from it, but to view the upper plateau of the Ried 
Glacier, and the peaks which encircle it, a considerably greater 

1 This village is mentioned under the names of Embda, Embsa, Emda, and Empda in 
documents of 1324, 1330, 1339 and later. [Oremaud, Nos. 1504, 1690, 1788, etc.] In 
those times it was embraced in the Parish of Yisp. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



CHAP. VII. 



THOMAS PLATTER. 



113 



elevation must be gained. No pai-t of the Ried Glacier can be seen 
from the bottom of the Nicolai Thai. Return home through Gasenreid. 

The villages of Niedergracheiiy 4807 feet, 1465 metres, and Grachen, 
5305 feet, 1617 metres, may also be made the subject of an agree- 
able excursion. They lie N.E. of St. 
Nicholas, on the way to the Hannig 
Alp. There is a house at the former 
village in which Thomas Platter the 
Reformer is said to have been bom, 
— an ordinary chalet, which does not 
look nearly 400 years old. If it is 
actually the case (as they aver on the 
spot) that it is the original house and 
has not been renovated, one can readily 
credit the opinion of people in the 
valley that there are chalets in the 
Zermatt district which are 700 years 
old, and even more. This opinion, it 
seems to me, however, is not based on 
any firmer foundation than the know- 
ledge that there are records which carry 
the history of the valley back to the 
13th century. 

Thomas Platter was bom at the little 
village Niedergrachen in 1499.^ My 
mother, he says, was a Summermatter,^ 
and her "father was one hundred and 
twenty-six years old. Six years before 
his death, I talked with him myself, 
and he told me that he knew ten men 
in the parish of Visp who were all older 
than he then was. When he was a 
hundred years old he married a woman 
of thirty and had a son by her."^ 
Platter's father died so early in his life 
that he could not remember having seen 
him. His mother married again, and 
"almost all my brothers and sisters," 
THE PATRON SAINT (sT. NICHOLAS), he says, " had to go out to service as 

soon as they were able. Because I 
was the youngest, my aunts each had me in turn." 

1 An account of his early life, written by himself, was printed at Basle in 1840. A 
curtailed translation of this was contributed by Sir W. M. Conway to the Alpiiie 
Journal, vol. xii, pp. 380-90. The following extracts are taken from this very interest- 
ing' article. 

2 There are various Summermatters now living at Randa. 

3 In Schiner's Description du D4partement du Simplon, at p. 226, when speaking of 
the Valley of Saas, there is the following remarkable statement. — "Les gens dans cette 
valine piurviennent beaucoup k un grand &ge ; il n'est point rare d'y compter plusieurs 
centenaires. On se souvient encore, que, lorsque la valine s'assemblait pour prevenir de 
grands maux, on formait un cercle sur la place, qui n'^tait compost que de nonage* 

I 




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114 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. vii. 

"When I was about six years old I was taken to Eisten" [Saas Thai] "a 
valley within Stalden, where my mother's sister was married to a man by name 
Thomas an Riedijn, who lived m a farm called Imboden. The first year I had 
to tend the kids for him near the house. There I remember once sticking fast 
in the snow, so that I could scarcely get out. I had to leave my shoes in it 
and come home barefoot. The same peasant owned about eighty goats, which 
I had to tend in my seventh and eighth years. I was still so small that, when 
I opened the goat-pen, if I did not spring quickly behind the door, the goats 
knocked me down and trod upon my head, ears, and back. When I drove the 
goats across the Visp over the bridge, those in front ran into the corn-fields, 
and when I drove them out the rest ran in, so I wept and cried,, for I knew 
well that I should be beaten at night. However, the goatherds of other peasants 
came to me and helped me, one big boy especially, Thomas of the Leiaenbach. 
He pitied me and did me much kindness. So when we drove the goats up into 
the high and terrible moimtains, we all sat and ate together. !]^h one had 
a shepherd's wallet fastened on his back, with cheese and rye bread in it. 

Perhaps about half a year afterwards, I drove my goats again early one 
morning before the other goatherds (for I was the nearest) up over a spur, 
called the Wysseggen. There my goats went to the ri^ht hand up a little rock, 
a good stride broad, below which was a terrible precipice, certainly more than 
a thousand feet high — sheer rock. From the little rock one goat went after 
another up a steep place, their little hoofs clinging to the bunches of grass 
growing among the rocks. When they had all gone up I wanted to follow 
them, but I had not taken more than one step upon the grass before I could 
go no farther, nor could I step back upon the steep place, and I dared still 
less jump backwards, for I feared, if I did so, I should roll down and fall over 
the terrible precipice. So I remained a long while standing and waited for 
the help of God, being no longer able to help myself, except by holding on 
with both hands to a tuft of grass and standing with my great toe upon another 
tuft. When I was tired I raised myself off the tuft and put my other toe there. 
In this plight I was most afraid of the great lammergeiers, which were flying 
in the air below me ; for I feared they would carry me off, as sometimes happens 
in the Alps. While I was standing thus, the wind blowing my jacket about 
behind, for I had no breeches on, my comrade Thomas saw me from afar but 
knew not what it was, for as he saw my coat blowing he thought it was a bird. 
When however he saw me plainly he grew pale with fright, and called out to 
me, * Now, little Tommy, stand still ! ' and then he climl^ up the little rock, 
took me by the arm and drew me up to where we could climb up to the goats." 

Little Platter was shifted about to various masters, one, he says, 
**beat me terribly, and often lifted me by the ears from the ground"; 
and another "taught me absolutely nothing, and flogged me merci- 

naires et de centenaires, avec de grandes barbes blanches : 1^ ne s'approchait point la 
jeunesse, et les femmes n'osaient point y paraitre, I'fige et I'exp^rience seuls y g6raient 
lea affaires, et la jeunesse n'y comptait pour rien." 

I have enquired for centenarians in the VaUeys of Zermatt and Saas, but have not 
heard of one, or learnt that one has been known in recent times. In 1895 I asked 
M. le Our^ of Grachen if he knew or had known of people in his parish who had at- 
tained such a patriarchal age, and he told me that he had buried a man of 96, six 
years before, who had taken part in the Russian campaign of Napoleon I, in 1812. Since 
then he had buried one of 93, and several of 80 to 84, but he thought that in 1895 there 
was no one living so old as 70. 

The result of enquiry at St. Nicholas is mentioned at p. 109. At Zermatt, the oldest 
man in 1896 was aged 92. At Tasch (1896) oldest man was 87. Saw him returning from 
work carrying a hay-rake— apparently had been haymaking. At Randa (1896) there 
was a man and woman each aged 84. Saw the former carrying a basket of dung on 
his back. The oldest man at St. Nicholas was ^in 1896) aged 86. It was said that there 
was a man (in 1896) at Emd over 90, and still working in the fields. At Stalden (in 
1896) the oldest man was 84, and at Saas the oldest man was 83. 



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CHAP. VII. PLATTER'S MOTHER, 115 

lessly." So that he began to wish to fly in the air, to "fly away 
over the mountains out of that country into (Germany " ; and at last 
he went away with a cousin to Lucerne, Zurich, Nuremberg and many 
other places, returning home from time to time to see his mother. 
After one of these visits, he says, 

" I went away from the country again with two of my brothers. When we 
went to bid my mother farewell, she wept and said, *God pity me, who have 
to see three of my sons go forth to misery.' That was the only time 1 ever 
saw my mother weep ; for she was a brave, manly woman, but hard. When 
her third husband died she remained a widow and did all work like a man, 
so that she might the better bring up her youngest children. She hewed and 
threshed and did other work rather belonging to men than women. Three 
children also she buried with her ownliands when they died in a terrible 
pestilence ; for in the pestilence it costs much to employ a gravedigger. She 
was very hard towards us, her first children, so that we seldom came to her 
house. At one time, as I remember, 1 was not with her for five years, but 
wandered far in foreign parts. When I came to her, the first word she said 
to me was, 'Has the devil brought you here then?' 'No, mother,' I answered, 
*the devil has not brought me here, but my feet. I shall not burden you 
lon^.' 'You don't burden me,' she said, 'only it vexes me that you go thus 
rovmg hither and thither, and doubtless are learning nothing. Learn to work 
as your father did. You will never be a priest. I am not so blessed as to 
be the mother of a priest.*" 

St. Nicholas is suitable for persons who do not wish to spend 
much, and for those who prefer picturesque scenery or quiet to high 
mountain ascents or a crowd. The village has produced in the past 
a number of the best guides of the Zermatt district, and it is at the 
present time the home of capable men. During the season, however, 
they are seldom at home, and will more likely be found at Zermatt 
than at their own village. For names of G-nides of St. Nicholas see 
Appendix G. The published Tarif of Excursions is given in Appendix 
A. It includes only a few of those above mentioned. 

The Railway Fares from St. Nicholas are — 







Single Fares. 


Return Tickets. 






2nd CI. 3rd 01. 


2nd 01. 3rd 01. 






f r. cts. f r. cts. 


fr. cts. fr. cts. 


St. Nicholas to 


Herbriggen 


. 2. 70 1. 70 


4. 80 3. 00 




Randa 


. 4. 45 2. 80 


8. 00 5. 00 




Tasch . 


. 6.25 3.90 


11. 20 7. 00 




Zermatt 


. 8. 90 5. 55 


16. 00 10. 00 




Kalpetran 


. 2.70 L70 


4. 80 3. 00 




Stalden 


.4.00 2.50 


7. 20 4. 50 




Visp . 


. 7.55 4.75 


13. 60 8. 50 



The carriage-road to Zermatt begins at the southern end of St. 
Nicholas, and in 3 min. crosses to the right bank. There is a fine 
view looking down the valley between kils. 17-18. On the east side 
of the road hereabouts a former village of St. Nicholas is said to lie 
buried under a great rock-fall. The cluster of chalets at Mattsand, 
4042 feet, 1232 mHres, is passed just before kil. 20, and a mile and 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



116 



ZEEMATT AND THE MATTEBHORN, chap. vii. 



a quarter farther on one comes to Herbriggen. No inn here, nor 
anywhere on the road between St. Nicholas — Randa. 

After leaving St. Nicholas, the railway continues for a time on 
the left bank, and between kils. 18-19 
makes another steep ascent by means of 
the cogged rails. At this part the views 
both up and down the valley are very 
striking. At the 19th kil. it crosses to 
the right bank, and runs closely along- 
side the road for a considerable distance. 
A brief halt only is made at 

Herbriggen (Herbrigen), 4134 feet, 
1260 metres; 21-6 kils. from Visp, 13*4 
kils. from Zermatt. This hamlet is situ- 
ated on the right bank of the Mattervisp 
torrent, about a quarter of a mile from 
the Railway Station. Few people get in 
or out here. The Fares from Herbriggen 





Single 


Fares. 


Return Tickets. 




2nd CI. 


3rti01. 


2nd CI. 


3rd 01. 




fr. cte. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


St. Nicholas . 


2.70 


1.70 


4.80 


3. — 


Kalpetran 


4.90 


3.05 


8.80 


5.50 


Stalden . 


6.70 


4.20 


12.— 


7.50 


Visp (Vibge) . 


9.80 


6.10 


17.60 


11.— 


Randa . 


2.25 


1.40 


4. — 


2.50 


Tasch . 


3. 50 


2.25 


6.40 


4. — 


Zermatt . 


6.25 


3.90 


11.20 


7. — 



The road from Herbriggen to Randa 
skirts lower slopes of the Mischabelhomer. 
The streams descending these slopes have 
often cut the road, and sometimes have 
interrupted the railway. At kil. 22 the 
hamlet of Langenmatt is passed, and that 
of Breitenmatt, 4186 feet, 1276 metres, 
about half a mile farther on. Small 
chapel. Grand views here of the cliffs 
of the Brunnegghom, and of the Bies 
Glacier descending between the Brunnegg- 
hom and the Weisshom, on the opposite 
side of the valley. The numerous chAlets 
seen hereabouts are storehouses and are 
not tenanted, but afford convenient shel- 
ters in case of bad weather. Though 
passing close under the peaks of the 
Mischabel very little can be seen of the upper part of this tine 
range. There is another steep incline on the railway from kil. 23*7 




TO ZERMATT 
ST. NICHOLAS TO RANDA. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



CHAP. VII. 



RANDA, 



117 



to k. 24*7, alongside the road, where a pedestrian can amuse himself 
by outwalking the train. Half a mile farther on, upon turning a 
corner, one comes in sight of 

Randa, 4741 feet, 1445 metres; pop. 229; 25*7 kils. from Visp, 
9.3 kils. from Zermatt. Post and Telegraph. Hotel. — Hotel and 



^<t2M=^e« 



_- J- r^ i J - - E. . 







HOTEL AND PENSION WEISSHORN, RANDA. 



Pension Weisshorn, a little to the south of the village, about 3 
min. from the Railway Station. Grood ; much visited by Swiss, 
French, and Germans. The Railway Fares are — 





Single 


Fares. 


Return Tickets. 




2nd CI. 


3rti CI. 


2nd CI. 3«i CI. 




fr. cts. 


f r. cts. 


fr. cts. fr. cts. 


Randa to Herbriggen . 


. 2.25 


1.40 


4. - 2. 50 


„ St. Nicholas . 


. 4.45 


2.80 


8. - 5. - 


,, Kalpetran 


. 6.70 


4.20 


12. - 7. 50 


„ Stalden . 


. 8.45 


5.30 


15. 20 9. 50 


Visp (Vi^e) . 


. 11. 55 


7.25 


20. 80 13. — 


Tasch . 


. 1.80 


1.15 


3. 20 2. - 


,, Zermatt. 


. 4.45 


2.80 


8. - 5. - 



The Hotel is well situated, and there are admirable views from its 
windows, particularly from those facing the south. For the Guides 
of Banda see Appendix G, and Appendix B for Tarif of Excursions. 
This * tarif by no means includes all the excursions that can be 
made. It addresses itself solely to those who are concerned Avith 
snow-peaks and passes. There are many minor excursions, suited to 
all sorts and conditions of persons ; and, as both railway and road 
go in two directions, there is liberty of movement. The principal 
ascents made from Randa are those of the Weisshorn, the Dom, and 
the Taschhom. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



118 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. vii. 

The Ascent of the Weisshom, 14,803 feet, 4512 metres, is the 
most considerable one to be made from Randa. This mountain is 
not so happily placed as the Matterhom and other peaks which 
might be mentioned, and it cannot anywhere be seen to advantage 
from a low level. But from moderate and from the higher eleva- 
tions it always appears a grand mountain. It can be seen well 
3000 feet or so above Randa on the route to the Dom; or, more 
easUy, from the Tasch Valley. ** Of all mountain tops that I know, 
that of the Weisshom is, I think, the most beautiful, with perhaps 
the one exception of the Wetterhom. It is formed by three of those 
firm and delicate edges which can only be modelled in the moun- 
tain snow, uniting to meet in a mathematical point." — Leslie Stephen, 
The first ascent was made on Aug. 18-19, 1861, by the guides J. J. 
Bennen and Ulrich Wenger (an Oberlander) with Dr. John Tyndall. 

The summit of the Weisshom lies due W. of Randa, but it is not approached 
in a direct manner. The usual course when making an ascent is to round 
the Schallenberg (Schalliberg) towards the south and west, until about S.E. 
of the summit ; then to go northwards, and strike the great eastern ridge of 
the mountain, and follow its arite to the top. This long eastern ridge is well 
seen from the Riffelberg, the Mettelhom, and various other points. When a 
good way up it, "the arite narrowed," says Tyndall, "to a mere wall, which, 
however, as rock would present no serious difl&culty. But upon the wall of 
rock is placed a second wall of snow, which dwindles to a knife-edge at the 
top. It is white and pure, of very fine grain, and a little moist. . . I had 
no idea of a human foot trusting itself upon so frail a support. Bennen's 
practical sagacity was, however, greater than mine. He tried the snow by 
squeezing it with his foot, and to my astonishment commenced to cross. Even 
after the pressure of his feet the space he had to stand on did not exceed a 
handbreadth. I followed him, exactly as a boy walking along a horizontal 
pole, with toes turned outwards. Right and left the precipices were appall- 
ing ; but the sense of power on such occasions is exceedingly sweet. . . 

. . We had been ten hours climbing from our bivouac to the summit, and 
it was now necessary that we should clear the mountain before the close of 
the day. . . We once fancied that the descent would be rapid, but it was 
far from it. . . Our muscles are sorely tried by the twisting round the 
splintered turrets of the arke^ and we resolve to escape from it when we can ; 
but a long, long stretch of the ridge must be passed before we dare to swerve 
from it. . . The face of the pyramid is here scarred by couloirs, of which the 
deeper and narrower ones are filled with ice, while the others are highways to 
the bottom of the mountain for the rocks quarried by the weather above. 
Steps must be cut in the ice. . . No word of warning was uttered here as 
we ascended, but now Bennen's admonitions were frequent and emphatic, — 
'Take care not to slip.' . . I imagined, however, that even if a man slipped 
he would be able to arrest his descent ; but Bennen's response when I stated 
this opinion was very prompt, * No ! it would be utterly impossible. If it were 
snow you might do it, but it is pure ice, and if you fall you will lose your 
senses before you can use your axe.* 

A deep and confused roar attracted our attention. From a point near the 
summit of the Weisshom, a rock had been discharged ; it plimiped down a 
dry couloir, raising a cloud of dust at each biunp against the mountain. A 
hundred similar ones were immediately in motion, while the spaces between 
the larger masses were filled by an innumerable flight of smaller stones. The 
clatter of this devil's cavalry was stunning. Black masses of rock emerged 
here and there from the cloud, and sped through the air like flying fiends. . . 
They whizzed and vibrated in their flight as if urged by wings. The clang 
of echoes resounded from side to side, from the Schallenberg to the Weiss- 
hom and back, until finally the whole troop came to rest, after many a deep- 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



CHAP. VII. THE DOM, 119 

sounding thud in the snow, at the bottom of the mountain. This stone 
avalanche was one of the most extraordinary things I had ever witnessed, and 
in connection with it I would draw the attention of future climbers to the 
danger which would infallibly beset any attempt to ascend the Weisshom 
from this side, except by one of its arkes. At any moment the mountain 
side may be raked by a fire as deadly as that of cannon." — Mountaineering in 
1861, by John TyndaU, 8vo, London, 1862. 

The Randa Tarif for the Weisshom is 80 francs per guide and 45 
francs per porter. The route generally followed is substantially that 
which was taken on the first ascent. A night is usually passed at 
a cahane, 9380 feet, 2859 metres, which is S.E. of the summit, not 
far from the place where TyndaU bivouacked. The condition of this 
cahane is lamentable, and tourists sometimes prefer to camp outside. 

Ascents have been made from several other directions. From the Bies Glacier 
by the N.E. face, by Mr. J. H. Kitson, with Christian and Ulrich Aimer, on 
Aug. 10-11, 1871 (see Alpine Journal, vol. v, p. 274). From the Schalliberg 
Glacier by the S. face and S.S.W. ridge, by Messrs. W. E. Davidson, Hartlejr, 
and Hoare, with Pollinger, Rubi, and Jaun, on Sept. 5-6, 1877 {A, J., vol. vui, 
p. 419). From the W., by Mr. G. A. Passingham, with Ferdinand Imseng and 
Louis Zurbrucken, on Aug. 12-13, 1879 {A. J., vol. ix, p^. 428-31). By the 
Schalliberg Glacier, viA the Schallijoch, and the S.S.W. ridge, by Mr. E. A. 
Broome, with J.-M. Biener, and A. Imboden, on Sept. 1-2, 1895 {A, /., vol. 
xviii, p. 145). Variations on these routes have also been made. 

In 1888, a young man of Munich, named Winkler, disappeared on the 
Weisshom. He started from Zinal on Aug. 16 to attempt to climb it alone, 
and on the 29th his cap was found in the remains of an avalanche, which it 
is supposed had overwhelmed him. 

After the Weisshom, the principal ascents to be made fi'om Kanda 
are those of the Dom and the Taschhorn. 

The first ascent of the Dom, 14,941 feet, 4554 metres, was made on Sept. 
11, 1858, by the Rev. J. Llewelyn Davies, with Johann zum Taugwald' (who 
had previously made some unsuccessful attempts on the mountain), — Kronig, 
and a volimteer from Randa. They left that village at 2.10 a.m., reached 
the summit at 11 a.m., returned to Randa at 4.20 p.m., and then walked up 
to Zermatt in time for the table d'hdte ! The route that is now usually followed 
is marked on the Map of the Valley of Zermatt ; and, so far as I can learn, 
does not differ much from that which was taken on the first ascent. It leads 
through the village of Randa, and then turns E., and mounts by the side of 
the i^ndaierbach, at first on the left bank, and afterwards by the right bank 
to the Festi caJbane^ 9400 feet, 2865 metres. A night is commonly passed 
there, and the ascent effected on the following day. There are magnificent 
views of the Weisshom and the Bies Glacier from this path, 2000 to 3000 feet 
above Randa. Guides so far are unnecessary. Tarif for the ascent, 60 francs 
per guide, 40 frs. per porter. More than 20 ascents were made in 1895. 

The Dom is the highest of the Mischabelhomer, and is the loftiest mountain 
that is completely in Switzerland ; for, although the summit of Monte Rosa is 
Swiss, that mountain is partly in Italy. The Dom has also been ascended, — 
1. From the eastern siae, mA the ^^gfluh and the Nadeljoch, by Rev. C. 
Taylor, Mr. R. Pendlebury, and Mr. G. E. Foster, with Hans Baumann and 
Gab. Spectenhauser, July 22-23, 1874 {A. J., vol. vii, p. 105). 2. From the 
south, viA the northern branch of the Kien Glacier and the Domjoch, by 
Messrs. Penhall and Ck)nway, with F. Imseng and P. J. Truffer, Aug. 18-19 

1 Both Mr. Davies and Johann zum Taugwald are living. The latter is the oldeist 
man at Zermatt who has acted as Guide. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



120 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. Vli. 

1878. 3. From the west, partly by the Domjoch route, and then by the W. 
ridge of the mountain, by Dr. P. Gussfeldt, witti Alex. Burgener and B. Venetz, 
July 27-8, 1882 {A, y., vol. xi, p. 117). Several variations have been made 
on these routes. The Dom has been ascended in winter (Jan. 1894). Three 
days were occupied on this excursion {A. J.^ vol. xvii, pp. 67, 384, etc.). 

A direct ascent of the Dom from Saas is not to be recommended. Mr. Mich. 
Carteighe, who went that wav in 1885, says, " Having heard on all sides that 
falling stones and ice usually enliven all expeditions in the Mischabel range 
undertaken on the Saas side, we decided to start early. . . Our progress was 
barred by an inverted pyramid of stones perched on the face. This could not 
be turned, and it was obviously necessary to pass over with caution. Accord- 
inglv Gabriel (Taugwalder) went over first with about 60 feet of rope that he 
might * prospect.' Imseng was roped next, and was on one side of the pyramid, 
while I was last and lower down on the other side of the stones. When the 
rope was tight between Gabriel and Imseng * the latter began to move. 
Instead of crawling in a loving manner over the group, he thoughtlessly made 
a spring, seized a large boulder-shaped stone, which he pulled upon himself, 
and then, turning head over heels backwards, freed himself from the stone 
and regained his foothold, the rope being 'ganz fest.' The stone then boimded 
over to the right towards me. I managed to avoid a direct collision, but one 
end caught me on the mouth and jaw, removing, as the dentists say, two teeth, 
and then as the stone rebounded to the left, the opposite end struck the palm 
of my left hand, gashed up the flesh, and then sped its way down to the glacier 
below." — A, J.f vol. XV, p. 102.2 

The T&Bchhom, 14,757 feet, 4498 metres, is the second highest of the 
Mischabelhomer. It was first ascended bv the Rev. J. Llewelyn Davies and 
the late Rev. J. W. Hayward, with the brothers Johann and Stephan zum 
Taugwald,3 on July 31, 1862. No account of this expedition has been preserved, 
and I am imable to say whether the original route is that which is now taken. 
The latter is marked on the Map of the Valley of Zermatt. After leaving the 
Hotel at Randa, it leads diagonally across the Tschuggen Alp towards the Kien 
Glacier. At about 9180 feet, there is a sleeping-place, 3 hs. above Randa. 

Several other ways have been found up the mountain. 1. From Saas-F^e, 
at first by the Mischabeljoch route and subsequently up the E. face of the 
mountain [Mr. P. Watson and Rev. F. T. Wethered, with Alex. Burgener, 
B. Venetz, and L. Proment, Aug. 7. 1875.—^. J.^ vol. viii, p. 108]. 2. From the 
top of the Mischabeljoch, vid the S.E. ridge of the peak [Mr. J. Jackson, with 
Christian and Ulrich Aimer, Aug. 16, 1876.—^. /., vol. viii, pp. 345-6]. 3. From 
the N., viA the Domjoch [Mr. F. CuUinan and Mr. Oerala Fitz Gerald, with 
Peter Knubel and Joseph Moser, Sept. 1-2, 1878.—^. /., vol. ix, pp. 109-110]. 
4. By the W.S.W. ridge. See My Climbs in the Alps mid Caucasus^ by A. F. 
Mummery, London, 1895. 

In 1893, a fatal accident occurred on the lower slopes of the Taschhom, not 
far from Randa. On Aug. 15, Messrs. Williamson and Lucas (the latter an 
Oxford undergraduate) passed the night on some rocks on the east side of the 
peak, and at 11 a.m. on the next dav reached the summit, intending to arrive 
that mght at Randa. At 10 p.m. they had not got clear of the forest below 
the Kien Glacier ! and as "the guides considered that it would be unwise to 
attempt to descend further, as their lanterns were biuTit out, they selected a 
smooth piece of grass on which to pass the night." One of the guides awoke 
about 1 a.m., and missed Mr. Lucas; and at 4 a.m. he was found dead a 
short distance away, at the foot of a rock 60 metres in height. His watch 
had stopped at 12.20. See Alpine JoiimaU vol. xvi, p. 503, and vol. xvii, pp. 
39-40. The guides were Adolph Andenmatten (of Almagell) and Franz Zur- 
briggen (of Saas). 

1 Xavier Imseng, of Saas-Fde. 

2 It may be well to point out that several fatal or very serious accidents have occurred in 
recent years in this district through guides dislodging stones or boulders. Both ascending 
and descending, it is impossible to exercise too much caution to avoid dislodging rocks 
when anyone is helmv. 3 Stephan zum Taugwald became Cur6 of Tasch. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



CHAP. VII. EXCURSIONS FROM RANDA. 121 

Both Dom and Taschhom have of late years, on more than one occasion, 
been ascended by the same party within the compass of a long day ; and, in 
1895, Mr. W. E. Davidson, with Christian Klucker and Daniel Maquignaz, 
starting from above Saas-F^e, ascended the Taschhom from the Mischabeljoch, 
crossed over the summit and descended on the Domjoch, thence ascended the 
Dom and descended on its northern side, reaching Randa the same evening. 

The Randa Tarif for the Taschhom is the same as for the Dom. 

The other peaks included in the Randa Tarif axe the Bieshom, Durrenhom, 
Hohber^hom, and Siid-Lenzspitze. The Bieshom is the peak to the N. of 
the Weisshom marked 4161 ^without name) on the V. of Zermatt Map. It 
can be reached from the Biesjoch (marked on Map 3549) in about 2J hs. The 
Durrenhom is just outside the range of the V. of Zermatt Map, to the N.W. 
of the Nadelhom, and can be got at vid a little valley running E. from 
Breitenmatt. The Hohberghom is the peak 4226, to the N.W. of the Nadel- 
hom. It can be ascended by more than one route. The Sud-Lenzspitze is 
the point 4300, to the S.E. of the Nadelhorn. Upon more than one occasion 
the three peaks Siid-Lenzspitze, Nadelhom, and Ulrichshom have been 
ascended in one day.* There are, besides, several other ascents which can be 
made from Randa that are not on the TaHf; namely, the Nadelhom (the 
highest point of the Saas Grat N. of the Dom), the Qalenhorn, Qrabenhorn, 
Strahlbett (12,320 feet, 3755 metres, W.S.W.of the Taschhom), and Leiterspiitz. 
The Mettelhom, also, is sometimes ascended from Randa. For the elevations 
and positions of these peaks see Appendix E. 

There are several lofty and fine Passes from Banda over the Saas Grat 
to Saas-F^e, which have, however, small claim to practical utiUty, or to the 
attention of the general public, and they are mostly ignored by the TaHf; 
namely, the Mischabeljoch, Domjoch, Nadeljoch, Lenzjoch (between the 
BUd-Lenzspitze and the Nadelhom), and Hohbergpass. On the Western side 
of the valley, the BiesjOCh leads to the Turtmann Thai, and the Schallijoch 
to Zinal. For positions and elevations of these Passes see Appendix F. 

The road from Randa to Zermatt runs closely alongside the railway 
for I mile, and at this part there are especially good views of the 
Breithom and Petit Mont Cervin (right in front). The prominent 
mountain on the right is the Mettelhom. After passing the hamlet 
Wildi (small chapel) there are few houses against the road, which in 
about 40 min. arrives at — 

Tasch (Taesch or T»sch), 4777 feet, 1456 metres; pop. 231 ; 29^ kils. 
from Visp, 5i kils. from Zermatt. No hotel. Wine can be obtained. 
The village is situated on the right bank of the Mattervisp torrent, 
about a quarter of a mile from the Railway Station. The Fares are — 





Single 


Fares. 


Return Tickets. 




2nd CI. 


3rd CI. 


2nd CI. 


3rd CI. 




fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


Tasch to Randa . 


. 1.80 


1. 15 


3.50 


2. — 


,, Herbriggen . 


. 3.55 


2. 25 


6.40 


4. - 


St. Nicholas. 


. 6.25 


3.90 


11.20 


7. - 


„ Kalpetran 


. 8.45 


5.30 


15.20 


9. 50 


Stalden . 


. 10.25 


6.40 


18.40 


11. 50 


Visp (Vi^e) . 


. 13. a5 


8. 35 


24. — 


15. — 


„ Zermatt 


. 2.70 


1.70 


4. 80 


3. — 



1 It is possible to ko aloncf the top of the entire ran^e of the Saas Orat without 
descending to the viuleys at all. The directions are simple. Commencing at the 
Schwarzberg Weissthor, go over the summit of the Strahlhorn and descend on the 
Adler Pass ; then go over the Rimpfischhom and come down on the Allalin Pass ; next 
walk up the Allalinhom and descend to the Alphubeljoch, whence you cross over the 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



122 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. vii. 



The torrent (Taschbach) from the Tasch Valley flows through 
Tiisch, and is now embanked. It was formerly a source of trouble, 
and frequently rendered the road to Zermatt nearly or quite im- 
passable. In the village itself there is little to be seen except the 
collection of skulls and bones which is preserved in a small build- 
ing {heinhaus) attached to the Church. At Tasch, and various other 
places, they do not allow one to remain peaceably in his grave in 
perpetuity. You are disinterred and your bones are stacked away 
in this fashion. There are similar collections at St. Nicholas and at 
Visp. For names of Guides of Tasch see Appendix G. 




CHARNEL-HOUSE (* BEINHAUS ') AT TASCH. 

[From the village of Tasch, a good path starts at the upper bridge over 
the Taschbach for the Tasch Alp. The name Tasch Alp is sometimes applied 
to a small Inn situated in a valley which leads at first a little S. of E. and 
afterwards about S.E., and sometimes to the Valley itself. In this volume 
the valley is called the Tasch Valley, and the ground round about the inn is 
termed the Tasch Alp. 

The path gets into forest soon after leaving the bridge, and is steep for 
about 1500 feet. When it begins to enter the Tasch Valley the inclination 
becomes moderate, and it so continues to the Inn (about 7000 feet) which can 

Alphubel to the Mischabeljoch, and go successively over the Taschhorn, Dom, Siid- 
Lenzspitze, Nadelhorn, Ulrichshorn and Balfrin. The whole route has been traversed 
in sections upon one or another occasion. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC . 



CHAP. VII. 



EXCURSIONS FROM TASCH, 



123 



be reached easily in 1 h. 50 min. from Tasch. This inn is now often used 
as a starting-point for the ascents of the Allalinhom, Alphubel, and Rimp- 
fischhorn, and for the passages of the Mischabeljoch, Alpnubeljoch, F^ejoch, 
Aiioi;«^„„„ etc. It is sometimes closed early in the season, and enquiry 




tAsch. 

should be made before leaving Tasch, to avoid disappointment. In the event 
of the Tasch Alp inn being closed, Randa can be used as a starting-point for 
these excursions. It is nearer than Zermatt. 

A promenade on foot or mule-back can be taken by anyone, alone, to the 
foot of the Mellichen, Hubel, and Langenfluh Glaciers at the head of the 
Tasch Valley (about 8000 feet). They can be reached in a leisurely fashion 
in 1^ to li hs. Fair path. This is good grazing-ground, and there are often 
many cattle about, some of whom are uncivilized. Carry a stick. Admirable 
views of the Weisshom will be seen in front, when returning. 

The first ascent of the Allalinhom, 13,235 feet, 4034 metres, was made on 
Aug. 28, 1856. by Mr. E. L. Ames, with the guides Franz Andermatten and 
— Imseng of Saas. They started from the Mattmark Inn, and after getting 
to the top of the Allalinpass followed the ridge which leads thence N.E. bv 
N. to the summit of the mountain. The ascent from the Col and back 
occupied them about 4 hs. From the Col they descended to Zermatt, vid 
Tasch. From place to place 14 hs. were taken. The mountain was crossed 
from N. to S. (Saas to Zermatt) by Mr. L. Stephen and Rev. W. Short, with 
Franz Andermatten and Moritz Anthonmatten (?) on Aug. 1, 1860. Sixteen 
hours were occupied from place to place. 



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124 



ZEBMATT AND THE MATTERHOBN. chap. vii. 






The Alphubel, 13,803 feet, 4207 metres, was first ascended on Aug. 9, 1860, 
by Mr. Leslie Stephen, viA the Tasch Valley. No 
account of this ascent has been preserved, and I am 
unable to indicate the route that was taken. The 
summit can be attained in li hs. from the Alphubel- 
joch, and in even less time from the Mischabeljoch, 
and it is also accessible from the West. 

The first ascent of the RimpfiBclihorn, 13,790 
feet, 4203 metres, was made by Dr. R. Liveing and 
Mr. Leslie Stephen in 1859, with the guides Melchior 
Anderegg and Johann zum Taugwald, from. Zer- 
matt, i^ the long ridge called the Rimpfischwange. 
Twelve hours of actual going seem to have been 
occupied on the ascent and descent. This mountain 
has also been ascended from the Allalinpass (5 hs. 
from the Pass to the top), but the route which is 
probably the shortest and easiest is that marked on 
the Map of the Valley of Zermatt, from the TSsch 
Valley, crossing the Hubel Glacier near its foot, 
mounting the buttress between it and the Langen- 
fluh Glacier, and crossing the latter to a point high 
up on the Rimpfischw&ige, which is then followed 
to the summit. The Rimpfischhom is a more appe- 
tizing morsel for a mountaineer than the Allalin and 
Alphubel, which also, as points of view, are inferior 
to a number of positions in this district which can 
be gained more easily. 

The passes out of the Tasch Valley, leading to 
the Saas Thai, are all moderately easy ; though, as 
they are lofty, they are, under any circumstances, 
somewhat laborious. The Mischabeljoch, 12,651 
feet, 3856 metres, between the Taschhom and the 
Alphubel, was first traversed by Messrs. Coutts and 
William Trotter, the Rev. H. B. Greorge and the 
Rev. W. S. Thomason, with the guides Peter Bohreu, 
Christian Aimer, and two Saas men, on July 30, 
1862, from Saas (im Grund) to Zermatt. Fifteen 
hours were taken going right through. The route 
now iisually follow^ for this pass is marked on the 
Map of the Valley of Zermatt. 

The Alphubeljoch, 12,474 feet, 3802 metres, be- 
tween the Alphubel and AUalinhom is easy ; but 
with new snow may be very laborious. The ordinarj' 
route for it is marked. Time ft^m Saas-F^e to 
Tasch Alp in 9 to 10 hs., actual going. In 1889, 
a French lady and gentleman fell, '* ivUh their guide ^ 
into a crevasse on this pass, and were only saved 
by the arrival of another party." — Alpine Journal ^ 
vol. xiv, p. 475. 

The F^ejoch. 12,507 feet, 3812 metres, is not 
shewn upon the Map of the Valley of Zermatt. 
It lies between the point marked 3912 and the 
AUalinhom. That peak can be ascended from the 
Col. It is a circuitous route from the Tlisch Valley 
to Saas-F^ ; but, being easy, is as quick as the more 
direct ones. 

The Allalinpass, the next one to the south, 11,713 
feet, 3570 metres, between the Allalinhorn and 
Rimpfischhom, is known to have been crossed in 
RAN DA TO ZERMATT. 1847, aud possibly was in use long before. This is 



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CHAP. VII. 



tAsch to zermatt. 



125 



a very circuitous way of getting from the Tasch Valley to Saas, but the time 
occupied is not more than upon the above-mentioned passes. Deducting the 

4 hs. taken on the first ascent of the AllaKn from the Col to the Summit and 
back, Mr. Ames' party went through from Mattmark to Zermatt in 10 hs. 

There remains to be mentioned a little pass at the head of the Tasch Valley, 
the TAwgftwflwh Pass, leading from it into the Findelen Valley, across the 
western end of the long ridge called the Rimpfischwange. This has not yet 
been rec<^nized on the OflBcial Maps of Switzerland. It goes between the 
points marked 3258 and 3314, by the track laid down on the Valley of Zermatt 
Map, and is, approximately, 10,500 feet high. One can get by it easily in 

5 to 6 hs. from the Tasch Alp Inn to the Fluhberg Hotel (by the side of the 
Findelen Glacier). 

In descending from the Tasch Valley with the intention of proceeding to 
Zermatt, the quickest wa,j is to return by the path to the village of Tasch, 
and thence by train. If time is not an object, another way may be taken. 
When about 20 min. down, a rough path will be noticed leading away to the 
left (about S.S.W.) by the side of an old, disused watercourse. Baedeker's 
Switzerland terms this "a direct but disagreeable forest-path." I have found 
it very serpentine and highly agreeable.] 

South of Tasch, the road to Zermatt does not rise much for 3 
kils. It then crosses to the left bank of the Mattervisp (5023 feet, 
1531 metres), and becomes steeper on the next two kils. The last 
bit, just before entering Zermatt, is flat. 

A kilometre and a half to the south of Tasch, the railway crosses 
to the left bank for the last time, and rises rapidly, in 1 kil., high 
above the torrent and road, by the last of the inclines with cogged 
rails. At this part it skirts the base of the Mettelhom. There is 
a grand view, between kils. 31-32, of a gorge through which the 
Mattervisp runs. Gret on the side of the stream. The Matterhom 
first shews itself, to those in the train, about the 34th kil., and after 
passing through a little tunnel Zermatt comes in sight, with Mont 
Cervin towering above. At the Terminus there is a good Buffet, and 
Omnibuses from the Hotels will be found in the Station Yard. The 
Railway Fares from Zermatt are — 





Single 


Fares. 


Return Tickets. 




2nd CI. 


3rd CI. 


2nd 01. 


3rd 01. 




fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


fr. cts. 


Zermatt to Tasch 


2.70 


1.70 


4.80 


3. — 


,, Randa . 


4.45 


2.80 


8. — 


5. - 


,, Herbriggen 


6.25 


3.90 


11. 20 


7. - 


„ St. Nicholas . 


8.90 


5.55 


16. — 


10.— 


,, Kalpetran 


11.15 


6.95 


20.— 


12.50 


„ Stalden . 


12.45 


7.80 


22.40 


14.— 


Visp (Vifege) . 


16.- 


10.— 


28.80 


18.— 


, , Lausanne . 


26.- 


17. 15 


44.80 


29.40 



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CHAPTER VIII. 

UPON THE VILLAGE OF ZERMATT. 

ZERMATT — ITS POPULATION — AUTHORITIES — REPARATION OF PATHS — 
COMMUNAL FORESTS — HOTELS — THE STREET — SHOPS — MANNERS 
AND CUSTOMS — THE CHURCH — INSCRIPTIONS IN GRAVEYARD — 
ENGLISH CHURCH AND INSCRIPTIONS IN ITS GRAVEYARD— AN 
ALPINE GARDEN ! — ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS — POST OFFICE — TEM- 
PERATURES — GLACIERS — EARTHQUAKES — BRIDGES — GUIDES AND 
MULES — THE GORNERGRAT RAILWAY. 

The Village of Zennatt,i 35 kils. from Visp, is situated in a basin 
at the head of the Nicolai Thai, upon nearly level ground, on the 
left bank of the Mattervisp torrent. It is in the District de Viige 
(or Bezirk Visp). See p. 101. Altitude, 5315 feet (1620 metres). 
Post and Telegraph. 

The permanent Population at the last Census was 525, and it is 
now estimated at 600. During the season, the residents are largely 
augmented by the persons employed in the Hotels, and by shop- 
keepers and others who come from various parts of Switzerland. For 
Zermatters in early times, see p. 9. The Authorities comprise the 
President of the Commune (with a Council of five), a Juge, and sous- 
Juge de Commune, 

The whole of the upper parts of the surrounding Alps and mountains, 
up to the limits of pasturage, are the property of the Commune. On 
the lower ground, many little patches and plots are private property. 
The Zermatters set a high value on their land, and ask prices equi- 
valent to those which are obtainable in the City of London. The 
Conmiune derives a considerable revenue from rents. 

Reparation of Roads and Paths. — The Conmiune determines what 
shall be done in this matter, and assesses the amount that shall be 
contributed by each person, according to his means. I am told that 
very little in the way of reparation is carried out. The condition of 
the paths has scarcely improved since I have known them. 

Forests. — Although the Forests around Zermatt (in consequence of 
the high average elevation of the soil) are not so extensive as those 
belonging to some of the Communes lower down the Valley, they 

1 The name Zermatt is of comparatively modem origin. See chap. i. I have 
remarked the following variations m spelling. Zermatten (Bourrit, 1781) ; Zer-Matt 
(De Saussure, 1796) ; Zur-Matt (Ebel, 1804) ; Zermat (Schiner, 1812) ; Matt (Ebel, 1818) ; 
and Zurmatt (Marc Yiridet,- 1833). 



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128 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. viii. 

form a large and valuable property. Every member of the Commune 
has right to wood to build a house, if he has not already got one, 
but he has to pay for its transport. 

The most picturesque tree in this neighbourhood is the Arolla 
Pine, and it is also one of the most serviceable for its timber, but 
it is not considered so valuable as the Larch. The greater part of 
the ch&lets are built of the latter wood. Furniture and floors are 
made from the Arolla Pine. 

Hotels.— Grand Hotel du Mont Cervin (300 beds ; Pension, 7-16 
francs; Bierhalle ; Lift). Hotel Monte Rosa (100 beds; Pension, 
7-14 frs. ; open all the year). Hotel Zermatt (180 beds; Pension, 
7-15 frs.). These are the three largest and oldest established Hotels 
(see pp. 15, 17). They are all central, and are favourites with English 
and Americans. 

Pension includes ^dijeuner du nuUin' {cafSj tM^ ou chocolat complet\ ^dSjeuiier 
d la fourchette ' (lunch), dinner, rooms, and attendance. It must be for a week, 
at least, reckoning from the day the arrangement is made. For a supple- 
mentary payment of 50 centimes per head, pensiormaires in the three above 
(Seller) hotels at Zermatt can lunch at the Riffelalp Hotel, at the Riffel- 
BERG Hotel (Riffelhaus), or at the Lac Noir (Schwarzsee). At all these 
six establishments the price of Pension is reduced until July 1, and after 
September 1. 

Hotel Gornergrat; Grand Hotel Terminus; Hotel d'Angle- 
TERRE (small). These three are nearest to the Railway Station. 
Hotel Bellevue; Hotel de la Poste (central, but not well- 
situated); Hotel des Alpes (at the southern end of the village). 
The positions of all the Hotels are indicated upon the Plan of Zer- 
matt. They have the Electric Light ; and omnibuses from them 
leave for the Railway Station before the departure of each train. 
The Trains start punctually. 

In the Street. — Zermatt has one street, which runs through the 
whole length of the village. The side alleys and lanes leading oif 
it are not recommended. The Shops are in *the street,' and include 
one kept by the renowned guide Melchior Anderegg of Meyringen, 
for the sale of Carvings, Photographs, etc. The bookseller Pfister 
has a large stock of light literature. Maps, and Photographs. There 
are a dozen or more general shops, a Baker, Bank, half-a-dozen 
Bootmakers, Confectioner, Doctor, Florist and Fruiterer, Forwarding 
Agents, Hairdresser (shaving 60 centimes). Jeweller, and Photographer. 
J. Lauber deals in minerals. At the general shops, bread, cheese, 
tobacco and tourists' requisites are sold. * Long John,' Liebig's Ex- 
tract, Chlorodyne and Photo. Chemicals can be obtained at the 
Chemist's, opposite the Mont Cervin Hotel. A Newspaper, the 
Journal et Liste des Strangers de Zermatt^ is published once a week 
during tlie Season. Reclames (puff's) may be inserted in it at 2 
francs per line. 

Manners and customs at Zermatt. — The Journal de Zermatt, Aug. 
18, 1895, contained the following paragraph. — 

"MoeuTB et coutumes de Zermatt. — On connait les beaut^s de la contr^e, 
mais on ignore les moeurs du pays. Par exemple, sait-on qu'k Zermatt il n'a 



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130 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. viii. 



jamaiii €iA constats de d^lit, vol ou rixe. Le easier judiciaire de la contr^ 
est immacul^. Les magasins n'ont pas de volet, les €talages restent dehors la 
nuit, les portes des chalets n'ont pas de semire ; il arrive souvent que des 
strangers, inconnus des n^gociants, emportent, manquant de monnaie, des 
marchandises qu'ils viennent religieusement solder le lendemain ; le cas con- 
traire, de m^moire d'homme, ne s'est jamais produit. Les guides jouissent 
d'une reputation de probity sans tache ; nombre de touristes leur contient les 
fonds dont ils sont porteurs et il ne s'est jamais ^ev^ mSme de contestation. 
Detail typique, le banquier du pays dort avec la fen^tre ouverte. A minuit, 

dans tous les caf€s de Zermatt, I'obscurit^ 
se fait, par suite de Textinetion de la 
lumifere €lectrique et chacun se retire, sans 
murmurer. Le seul gendarme du village 
semblo plutdt pr^pos^ k la surveillance de 
la vertu qu'k la repression du vice." 

' Zermatt Church, dedicated to St. 
Maurice, is a plain structure exter- 
nally, and is less ornate internally 
than most of the churches in this 
district. Admission can be had at 
all reasonable times. According to 
Ruden's FamUien-Statistik, it is not 
known when it was erected. The 
sacristy is dated 1587, and stands, it 
is said, on the site of a charnel-house 
{heinhaus). On Sundays, First Mass 
at 5.30 a.m. ; Second Mass, 7 a.m. ; 
High Mass, 9 a.m. On week-days. 
Mass at 6.30 and 7.30 a.m. The 
parsonage is on the S.E. side of the 
Church, and is the house where visi- 
tors lodged before the first Hotel was 
opened. See p. 14. The Parish of 
Zermatt extends on the S. up to the 
Italian frontier, and on the N. is 
bounded by the Parish of Tasch. 
Like all the rest of the Valley, it is 
in the Diocese of Sion. 

In the centre of the Churchyard, 
on the S. side of the Church, there 
is the monument to Michel Croz (see 
p. 71), bearing this inscription, on the side facing the street. — 

"k la memoire de Michel Auguste Croz n^ au Tour valine de Chamounix, 
en temoignage de regrets de la perte d'un homme brave et d€vou€, aim€ de 
SOS compagnons estim€ de voyageurs, il p^rit non loin d'ici en homme de 
coeur et guide fiddle." 

Upon the N. and S. sides respectively of the monument there are 
the dates of his birth and death [Avril 22me, 1830 ; Juillet 14me, 
1865]. 

On the north of the Churcli there are the graves of the Rev. 




ZERMATT CHURCH. 



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CHAP. VIII. 



INSCRIPTIONS AT ZERMATT 



131 



Charles Hudson and Mr. Hadow (see p. 70), and at their side there is 
that of Mr. W. K. Wilson of Rugby School, with these inscriptions. — 

"Douglas Robert, eldest son of Patrick Douglas and Emma Hadow, who 
perished in descending the Matterhom, July 14, 1865, aged 19 years. Even 
so Father, for so it seemed good in thy sight. S. Matt. xi. — 26. 

"Charles Hudson, Vicar of Skillinglxjn, Lincolnshire, killed in descending 
the Matterhom, July 14, 1865, aged 36 years. Be ye therefore also ready. 
S. Luke xii. 40." 

" + William Knyvet Wilson, M.A. Fellow of Trin. Coll. Cambridge. + Bom 
Nov. 2. 1838. + Killed by a fall on the Riffelhom, July 18. 1865. + "It is I 
be not afraid." St. John vi. 10." 

By their side there is the tomb of Mr. E. von Grote, inscribed 
** Eduard von Grote xiii August mdccclix semper idem" and close by 
there is the grave of Mr. Goehrs (see p. 86), bearing this inscription. — 

"Edouard Goehrs n€ a Strassbourg le 23 Oktober 1863 Mort au Cervin le 
11 September 1890 Mes pensfees ne sont pas vos pensfees et mes voies ne sont 
pas vos Voies a dit TEternel. E.S.S.S." 

And alongside there is the grave of Mr. Chester (see chap, x) in- 
scribed " Henry Chester of Poyle Surrey who died on the Lyskamm." 

The English Church is placed upon an eminence opposite to the 
Hotel du Mont Cervin. The keys are kept at the Hotel du Mont 
Rose. Upon its S. side there are the graves of Mr. Gabbett (see chap. 
ix), Mr. Borckhardt (see pp. 85-6), Mr. Lewis (see chap, x), and Miss 
Sampson (see chap, ix) with the following inscriptions. — 

' \\. E, GtililHstt iigttd T?2 fdll 
froru tliQ Dent BUtnciio Aapru^t 
Vl\h 3SS2 In Uia mulst of life 

***l'iiS^ -i V' 3'->- 'm:^-^'^-'^i»' '■•■■■ -* rtiflurriicitiori ami tho lifts/' 





THE GRAVES OF HUDSON, HADOW, AND WILSON. 



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132 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. viii. 

"In memory of Frederick C. Borckhardt St. Albans, Herts who perished 
on the Matterhom during a terrible snowstorm 18 August 1886 Aged 48." 

"In loving memory of my beloved husband William Arnold Lewis barrister 
at law of the Middle Temple and 29 Elsham Road, Kensington, son of the 
late W. D. Lewis Q.C. who lost his life on September GrTH 1877 by a fall 
from the Lyskamm Aged 30. Thy will be done." 

"In Memory of Ellen Emma Sampson of Hendon, Middlesex, killed by 
falling stones on the Triftjock 30th August 1895." 

In front of the English Church there is what is termed an * Alpine 
Gf-arden ' I which affords more wonder than delight. At the entrance 
to it, it is stated that it is "Propri^t6 de I'Etat." The plants do 
not flourish under State Patronage, and they seem to exercise a de- 
pressing influence upon the Eagles which are confined in an enclosure 
alongside. 

[A list of Plants that are found in the neighbourhood of Zermatt is given 
at the end of Ruden's Familien - Statistihy embracing more than 500 species. 
The following genera are amongst those which are most strongly represented. 
— Anemone (6), Arenaria (8), Artemisia (7), Campanula (8), Carex (23), CeraMium 
(6), Draba (7), Oentiana (13), Geranium (4), Onaphalium (5), Hiera^dum (19), 
Myosotis (4), Potentilla (14), Ranunculus (9), Saxifraga (14), Sdene (5), Trifolium 
(9), Veronica (9), Viola (7). 

Digging up plants by their roots. — The following notification was 
printed in the Journal de Zermatt y Aug. 11, 1895. 

" Expeditions de fleurs avec leurs racines.— Pour arracher et exp^ier des 
fleurs destinies k 6tre transplant^es, une autorisation du maire de Zermatt, 
M. Pierre-Louis Perren, est indispensable. De plus ces fleurs devront acquitter 
un droit municipal de 5 fr. le kilo pour les edelweiss et 3 fr. pour les autres 
fleurs." 

It is impossible to collect the tax, and the * indispensable authorisa- 
tion' is, I think, very generally ignored.] 

The Gf-ardens of the Mont Cervin Hotel, close at hand, are Zoo- 
logical in their tendencies. In 1896, they contained four Marmots, 
an Owl and a forlorn Eagle, and two very young Bouquetin (sup- 
posed not to be more than two months old). Pay attention to the 
Marmots. In going to them from the English Church you will pass 
the Post Office, which is open on week-days from 7 a.m. to 8 p.m., 
and on Sundays from 8 to 10 a.m. and 1 — 3 p.m. Telegraph Office 
is always open. For the Swiss Post see p. iv of Introduction. 

Temperature. — The maximum temperature in the shade at Zermatt 
is seldom higher than 24** C. (75° '2 Fah.). The highest recorded 
temperature in recent years occurred, I believe, on Aug. 16-17, 1892, 
when the thermometer rose to 76° '1 Fah. In the sun, however, the 
heat (both on high and low ground) is often sufficient to make one 
wish for shade, and an umbrella is not to be despised. In Winter, 
the minimum may be as low as -6° Fah. (38° below freezing-point). 

Glaciers. — Since 1860, most if not all of the glaciers in this 
district have diminished and retreated. In the Report on the peri- 
odical variations of glaciers in the Jahrbuch of the Swiss Alpine 
Club, 1897, it is stated that in 1896 the Gomer, Findelen and 



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CHAP. VIII. 



EARTHQUAKES. 



133 
The Findelen in 1894, 



Zmutt glaciers all shewed a slight shrinkage, 
however, advanced 60 metres. 

Earthquakes. — The Nicolai Thai has experienced earthquake shocks 
several times in the course of the 19th century, but Zermatt itself 
has taken scarcely any harm. The last occurred on Aug. 21, 1895, 
at 9.15 a.m. It was a single, moderately strong shock, accompanied 
by loud noise. Many persons rushed out of the Hotels in alarm. 
There was a second, feebler shock at 1 p.m. on the same day, 
attended by a very loud noise, resembling that made on the fall of 




THE MATTERHORN BRIDGE. 

a great avalanche. I could not learn that damage was done in any 
part of the Valley. 

At the end of July, 1855, the earth(][uakes were more severe. Canon J. G. 
Smyth, who weis at Zermatt at the time, says, "we were assembled a little 
before dinner and suddenly heard a rumbling, and presently felt the floor 
shaking, just as if all the people in the Hotel had taken to dancing about 
the different rooms. On looking out of the window we perceived some large 
stones tumbling down into the valley. The shocks were repeated two or three 
times at intervals. . . No damage was done at Zermatt. . . At St. Nicholas 
the whole side of one of the Hotels was thrown down, so that people out- 
side could see into the bed-rooms." The damage done on this occasion at 
St. Nicholas and other places lower down the valley was very extensive. 



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134 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHOEN. chap. viii. 

Bridges. — Those who deske to make Excursions alone will do well 
to acquaint themselves with the Bridges. 1. There is first the Village 
Bridge, called Schwehstegy which is reached by the lane (usually in a 
filthy condition) on the southern side of the Mont Cervin Hotel, or 
by a path at the back of the Hotel Zermatt. The way over it leads 
to Haueten, etc. 2. The next bridge higher up the Mattervisp is called 
the Riflfel Bridge {Pont du Biffd). This is the bridge for the Riffel- 
berg, Gomergrat, etc. These two are marked on the Plan of Zermatt. 
3. The next one higher up, called zum WaZdstegy is over the Zmutt 
torrent, just above its junction with the Mattervisp. Go over it to 
the Gorges of the Gomer. 4. Half a kil. higher up the Zmutt torrent 
there is the bridge for the Lac Noir, Homli, etc., called the Matter- 
horn Bridge {Pont du Mont Cervin). The little bridge in the middle 
of the village crosses the Triftbach, coming from the Trift Gorge. 

Guides and Mules. — Guides are in demand at Zermatt, yet there 
is not a Bureau or any place where a would-be employer can learn 
what Guides are available. He has first to occupy his time in search- 
ing for men out of work, and then to enquire whether those he pro- 
poses to select are fit to employ on the contemplated excursion. 
This is wasteful of the time of the employer; and many persons 
quit Zermatt, without making excursions they wish to make, from 
inability to meet with the right men, — although there may be at 
the moment a dozen or a score of competent guides available, who, 
in consequence, lose business. 

Zermatt is a meeting-place for Guides. Besides the men of the 
district, whose names are given in Appendix G, and other Yalaisan 
guides, one often finds there some of the best men from the Oberland, 
the Engadine, Chamonix, Courmayeur and the Val Toumanche ; and 
it would be a convenience to tourists, and would put annually many 
thousands of francs in the pockets of those who want them, if an 
Office could be opened for the registration of Guides out of employ- 
ment, where employers might call and make enquiries. ^ Mules and 
drivers can be engaged at the Hotels. 

The Cromergrat Bailway, from Zermatt to the Gomergrat, is well- 
advanced towards completion, and it is intended that it shall be 
opened early in the season of 1898. The terminus at Zermatt is 
opposite to the Station of the Zermatt — Visp line. It will always 
be necessary to change trains. 

The line is one mfetre gauge. The lirst 300 metres over the meadows are 
level. It then crosses the Mattervisp by an iron bridge of 24 metres span, 
and after that no more is level. 

At the commencement, the gradients are not steeper than the steepest ones 
on the Vi^ge — Zermatt line, — that is to say 12 in 100; but after passing the 

1 In the Jahrbuch des Schweizer Alpenclub, 1897, p. 402, there are the following 
remarks, "Le Comity central a constat6 avec peine que les deux guides victimes de la 
catastrophe au Lyskamm ne figuraient pas sur nos tableaux d'assiuunce. La repugnance 
ou la n6gligence des guides valaisans a se faire assurer centre les accidents disparait- 
raient certainement dans une grande mesure si les guides 6taient organises en corporation 
par valine ou par region. Le Oomit^ central discutera s'il ne convient pas que le Club 
Alpin Suisse fasse des d-marches pour provoquer cette organization qui offrirait encore 
d'autres avantages." 



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136 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHOBN. chap. viii. 



bridge at the entrance to the Findelen Vallev they are ahnost always 20 in 
100. The line at this part is already a considerable elevation above Zermatt 
and the mule-path to the Riffel, and gives fine views of the Grabelhom and 
Zinal Rothhom. After passing through three small rock tunnels of ordinary 
character, it arrives (at kil. 3) at a fourth tunnel, 200 metres long, which makes 
a complete semi-circle, and mounts 1 in 5 all the way through ! The upper 




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THE BUFFET AT THE RAILWAY-STATION. 

end of the tunnel, which is quite a short distance from the lower entrance, is 
thus 131 feet above it ! Shortly afterwards, the line makes a great sweep 
roimd to the right, and at kil. 5 approaches the Riffelalp Hotel, where there 
is the first station. There are then several curves, and at kil. 6*6 one reaches 
the second station, Riffelhaus, close to the Hotel. So far, the railway has not 
touched the mule-path, but after this line and path are close together. The 
little lakes at the foot of the Riffelhom are passed at kil. 8, and the line 
terminates at a sort of plateau, 9908 feet, 3020 metres, to the W. of the 
Gomergrat, at kil. 9-2. In this distance it rises 4593 feet (1400 metres). 

This is an adhesion railway, and it will be worked by electricity. As it 
would be impossible to obtain suflScient adhesion on an ordinary pair of rails, 
the line will have, throughout its entire length, a third, centml, cogged-rail, 
on the Abt system. The most important works upon it are the semi-circular 
tunnel, and the great bridge over the Findelenbach. This is in three spans, 
and from the level of the torrent, which it crosses, to the rails, is a height of 
164 feet (50 metres), or 16 feet more than the bridge at Fribourg (on the 
Lausanne — Berne line), which until now has been the loftiest in Switzerland. 
The estimated cost of the line (including an electric installation capable of 
developing 1500 h.p.) is 3,500,000 francs. 



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CHAPTEE IX. 

EXCUESIONS FROM ZERMATT. 

TO THE RIFFKLALP — LAC KOIR (SCHWARZSEE) — ZMUTT AND STAFFEL 
— GORGES OF THE GORNER — THE FIKDELEN VALLEY — TRIFT GORGE 
— HOHBALM — TASCH ALP AND VALLEY — HEUETEN — TO THE 
RIFFELHAUS AND GORNERGRAT — GUGEL — THE HORNLI RIDGE AND 
THE MATTERHORN CABANE — THE ZMUTT GLACIER AND STOCKJE — 
ASCENT OF THE GORNER GLACIER TO THE RIFFELHORN — THE FLUH 
ALP AND UPPER FINDELEN GLACIER — TRIFT HOTEL AND TRIFT- 
KUMMEN — TUFTEREN ALP TO EGGEN — THE RIFFELHORN — A ROUND 
VIA STAFFEL, THE LAC NOIR, ETC. — THE STOCKHORN PASS — MET- 
TELHORN AND PLATTENHORNER — UNTER AND OBER ROTHHORN — 
UNTER GABELHORN, TRIFTHORN AND WELLENKUPPE — ZINAL ROTH- 
HORN — OBER GABELHORN — DENT BLANCHE — tIiTE BLANCHE — T^TE 
DE VALPELLINE — TH^ODULE PASS — ASCENT OF THE BREITHORN — 
PETIT MONT CERVIN — COL DE TOURNANCHE — TIEFENMATTENJOCH 
— COL DE VALPELLINE— COL D'H^RENS— COL DE LA DENT BLANCHE 
— COL DURAND — ARBENJOCH — TRIFTJOCH — MOMING PASS. 

Excursions from Zermatt are divided in this chapter into A. simple 
Walks. B. Extensions of excursions 1 — 9. C. Ascents, D. Passes. 
Those which come under A are within the capacity of all ; but the 
majority of those which are included in sections C, D are only suit- 
able for persons who have at least an elementary acquaintance with 
the art of the mountaineer. An unlimited number of variations can 
be made upon the excursions which are enumerated, the central posi- 
tion of Zermatt giving it unique advantages, and permitting an almost 
infinite variety of combinations. For Tarif see Appendix D. 

A. Walks around Zermatt. 

§ 1. To the BifiPelalp Hotel, by the ordinary path, returning by the Hotel- 
Pension du Glacier de Findelen and the Findelen Valley. 

Go past the Church to the S. end of the Village, and cross the Riffel 
Bridge (see p. 134).^ The way then rises to the hamlet of Winkelmatten, 
5499 feet, lo76 metres. At its Chapel the path divides. Take that on the 

1 There has heen for several years a deceitful iron plate affixed to a post close to 
this Bridge, a few feet beyond it, bearing this inscription— 

AUX OORGBS DU OORNER RiFFELALP ET RnTFBL. 

Persons are liable to be deceived by being led to suppose that the path beyond the 
bridge is the way. One can get to the Riffelalp vid the Gorges of the Qomer, just as 
one can get from London to Dover vid Brighton, but it is not the way (the regular 
way), which, as I have said, leads over the bridge. 



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CHAP. IX. THE RIFFELALP HOTEL. 139 

right, which descends to a bridge over the torrent (Findelenbach) coming from 
the Findelen Valley. The path then remoimts, and crosses a piece of flat 
meadow. After that it rises continuously to the Riffelalp Hotel. In 30 min. 
from Zermatt there is the first drinking-shed. The second one, 15 min. farther 
on, is near the lower end of the semi-circular tunnel on the Gomergrat Rail- 
way (see p. 136), and in the immediate vicinity iiiere are some of the finest 
and most picturesque views of the Matterhom that can be had from this 
direction. So far, a good deal of the way is in shade. The patti here turns 
sharply to the left, and in the middle of the day this is a hot piece. At the 
top of the twists and turns time can be saved by shaping a direct course 
towards the Riffelalp Hotel, across open ground, instead of following the 
regular path past the ch&lets of Augstkummen (where there is a third drink- 
ing -place, with elastic prices). After the open ground, the path again turns 
to the left, and then doubles back to the 

Riffelalp Hotel, 7307 feet, 2227 metres; one of the Seller Hotels, 
very popular from its excellence and position. Full and unimpeded 
view of the Matterhom from its southeni windows. Open from June 1 
to October 15 ; 250 beds ; Pension 10 to 16 francs per day ; Catholic 
and English Chapels ; Post and Telegraph. In the middle of the season 
this Hotel is usually full and overflowing, and those who propose 
to take up residence there should make inquiry at one of the Seller 
Hotels, before leaving Zermatt, to learn if there is room. 

Instead of returning the same way (which would take about 40 min., any- 
thing less is quick time) continue the walk to the Findelen Valley, by the 
path which starts at (he back of the Hotel. Grood path, partly in shade ; 
slightly undulating ; with excellent views of the Matterhom, Dent Blanche, 
Gabelhom, Rothhom (Homing) and Weisshom. In 40 min. it arrives at the 
Hotel-Pension du Glacier de Findelen, situated a few hundred feet above 
the ice, on the left bank of the vallev. Descend from it to the bridge over 
the Findelenbach (a short distance below the end of the glacier) in 20 min. ; 
remount to the Village of Findelen, and take the path back, down the right 
bank of the valley, that joins the route by which you came at the Chapel of 
Winkelmatten. 

In ascending to the Riffelalp something can be saved by * cutting ' the path 
at several places. Look ahead. The following will be about the times occu- 
pied on the excursion. 

Monte Rosa Hotel to Riff el Bridge 6 min. 

Riff el Bridge to first drinking-shed 25 „ 

First to second drinking-shed 15 ,, 

Second drinking-shed to Riffelalp Hotel . . . . 45 ,, 
Riffelalp Hotel to Hotel du Glacier de Findelen . • 40 ,, 
Hotel du Glacier de Findelen to Findelen . . . 25 ,, 

Findelen to Monte Rosa Hotel 40 ,, 

Total . . 3 hs. 15 min. 

§ 2. To the Lac Noir (Schwarzsee), ascending by the old path and de- 
scending by the new one, or vice va'sd. 

Go to the S. end of the village, and follow the path marked P on the Plan 
of Zermatt. The path divides 9 or 10 min. after passing the Riffel Bridge. 
Take the one on the right [the other goes to the Gorges of the Gomer], 
which rises, and continues on the left bank of the stream until it comes to 
the Matterhom Bridge (Pont du Mont Cervin). See p. 133. After crossing 
the bridge, it bears round to the right, and passes through the hamlet of 
Zum See. Shortly afterwards it commences to rise steeply, and in about 20 
min. divides again. Here there is a shed, inscribed 

ViNS et BlERE LiMONADE LaIT. 

Take the path on the left [the other one goes up the Zmutt Valley to 

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140 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ix. 

the ch&lets of Staffel], and in 20 min. or so more you arrive at another 
drinking -place, overlooking the Gromer Glacier. Thence the way mounts 
directly towards the Homli, and in about 25 min. divides a^in. It is im- 
material which way is taken, as both lead to the Lac Noir. The right hand 
one (the old path) has fine views of the Bothhom, Ober Gabelhom and Dent 
Blanche ; and the left hand or new path (rather the steeper of the two ways^ 
has a magnificent prospect over the Gromer Glacier up to Monte Bosa. In 2| 
to 2i hours from Zermatt you come to the 

Hotel da Lac Noir (Schwarzsee), 8494 feet, 2589 metres ; one of 
the Seller Hotels; near the lakelet from which it takes its name; 
50 beds; Pension 9 to 12 francs. The view from this place is very 
extensive, and embraces ne€u*ly all the peaks in the Zermatt district. 
At the Chapel against the Lake (see Illustration on p. 55), Mass on 
Sundays at 8 a.m. Descent can be made to Zermatt by either of 
the two ways in 50 min., moving briskly; or by a more circuitous 
path vid the chdlets of Staffel and the Zmutt Valley. 

§ 3. To the Ch&lets of Staffel and the end of the Zmutt Olader, viA the 

Village of Zmutt, returning by the right bank. 

Follow the route for the Lac Noir nearly to the Matterhom Bridge. A 
little short of it, a path goes away on the right, to the Villas of Zmutt, 
6365 feet, 1940 metres. Chapel. Old ch&lets. Time from Zermatt, 1 hour. 
In the middle of the day, this place is often completely deserted, everyone 
being at work out of doors. Descend in 5 min. to a bridge over the Zmutt- 
bach (romantic position), a few hundred yards away, on the W. of the Village. 
Cross it and turn to the right, up the valley. The way to Staffel lies almost 
entirely through forest (many Arolla pines), picturesque, and well-shaded. On 
getting clear of the trees there is a remarkable view of the Matterhom, which 
will be a surprise to those who have only seen the mountain from the Biffelalp 
(see p. 49). "There are precipices, apparent, but not actual; there are preci- 
pices absolutely perpendicular ; there are precipices overhanging, there are 
glaciers and hanging glaciers ; there are glaciers which tumble great tiroes over 
greater cliffs, whose d^ris, subsequently consolidated, becomes glacier again." — 
Scrambles anumgst the Alps. The ch&lets of Staffel, 7021 feet, 2140 metres, are 
close to the end of the Zmutt Glacier, and a rough path or track continues 
for some distance up its right bank. Several spots in the vicinitjr of the 
ch&lets are well-adapted for picnics. Grood water. Bring food, — prices are 
high at the small inn at Staffel. For returning home down the right bank of 
the valley (good path all the way), and through Zum See and across the Matter- 
hom Bridge, allow 80 to 90 minutes. I strongly recommend this Excursion. 

§ 4. To the Gorges of the Oomer and the end of the Oomer Glacier, 
going by the zum Waldsteg Bridge (see p. 134), and returning by the Matter- 
hom Bridge. 

Take the path marked P on the Plan of Zermatt to the zum Waldsteg 
Bridge, which crosses the Zmuttbach, 10 to 12 min. above the Riffel Bridge. 
On its farther side the path divides. That on the right leads through tiie 
hamlet of Flatten ; that on the left gets in 7 min. to the northern end of 
the Gorges. Admittance 1 franc. At the entrance there is a small erection 
called 'Travellers rest,' where refreshments can be obtained. "This gorge 
seems to have been made chiefly by the torrent, and to have been excavated 
subsequently to the retreat of the glacier. It seems so because not merely 
upon its walls are there the marks of running water, but even upon the 
rounded rocks at the top of its walls, at a height of seventy or eighty feet 
above the present level of the torrent, there are some of those queer con- 
cavities which rapid streams alone are known to produce on rocks." — Scrambles 
amongst the Alps. The plank path through the Gorges emerges not far from 
the end of the Gomer Glacier. This glacier has retreated at least J mile 
since 1860, and it has now no ice- cavern at its extremity. To get to it, cross 



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CHAP. IX. 



GORGES. 



141 



the bridge which will be seen. Return home wd Zum See and the Matterhorn 
Bridge in about 36 min. The round, allowing for halts, can be made comfort- 
ably in 3 hours. 

§ 5. To the Village of Findelen, and end of the Findelen Glacier. 

Cross the Riffel Bridge ; pass the Chapel at Winkelmatten (take the path 
going straight on, and leave the Riffel path on the right). A few minutes 
afterwards the way commences to mount, and rises steeply through forest, on 
the rigl^t bank of the valley (passing ch&lets at Zum Stein, 6204 feet, 1891 




GORGE OF THE CORNER. 

metres), and arrives at the Village of Findelen, 6808 feet, 2075 metres, in 
little more than an hour from Zermatt. Chapel. No inn. At this village the 
path divides. The upper (left hand) one goes to the Fluh Alp on the right 
bank of the valley, and the other descends to a little bridge and remounts 
on the left bank to the Hotel -Pension du Glacier de Findelen. See § 1. 
This Hotel can be seen from Findelen Village. After passing it, go a little 
higher up the left bank, cross the glacier to the other side, and return home 
through Findelen Village. The excursion can be made in an afternoon. 

§ 6. To the Trift Gorge, and Tea House. 

The Trift Gorge is immediately to the W. of Zermatt. A path to it starts 
at the English Church, and at first leads away from the Gorge, and apparently 
goes in the wrong direction. When it has risen to a good height, and opposite 
to the Hotel Terminus, it doubles back. Another more direct path starts at 
the passage on the S. side of the Monte Rosa Hotel, turns first to the left 



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142 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ix. 

and then to the right, and leads in the du*ection of the arrow marked Q on 
the Plan of Zermatt. These two paths meet at the entrance to the gorge, 
just before arriving at the bridge over the torrent. From this point one can 
return to Zermatt in 10 minutes. A small chalet, perched on a commanding 
position on the top of a cliff on the S. side of the Trift Gorge, was opened in 
1896. Tea and other refreshments. Good view of the valley can be had here. 
Time from Zermatt, 45 to 50 min. An extension of this excursion can be 
made to 

§ 7. The Hdhbalm, about 8600 feet, midway between Zermatt and the 
Unter Gabelhom. 

This excursion is fit for the afternoon, as this side of the valley gets then 
into shadow, and the mountains to the east are seen at their best. *' Follow 
the path for the Trift torrent, cross the bridge, and you will discover a rough 
path leading you up into the woods above the right bank of the stream. 
Pursue this on to the hillside, and you will iind yourself above the precipices 
and rising obliquely till the path ceases its upward course, and invites you to 
select your own way among the alternate terraces of grass and rock that rise 
gently above you. Make a note of the point where you leave the path, and 
stroll upwards at will, more and more enchanted by views which on a sunny 
day will not fail to surprise you into admiration. A quiet three hours' walk 
from the hotel will land you on the summit, an open undulating plateau, 
about 3500 feet above the village, forming the end of the promontory which 
descends from the Unter Gabelhorn, where you may roll or ramble at pleasure, 
and over your lunch drink in to your heart's content beauties of nature 
remarkable oven in Switzerland. The Monte Eosa chain is more interesting 
in shape than from the Gomergrat, and with the advantage of the Riffelberg 
as a contrasting middle ground. To compensate for the loss of the upper 
Gomer Glacier you have the sparkling ice-fall and the deep richness of the 
vallev. . . In returning, if you wish to vary your route, you may either 
wander on aloft till you look down on the Zmutt Glacier, or descend obliquely 
in that direction, till you find ch&let paths, which will eventually lead you 
down to Zermatt by a different route." — Alpine Journal^ vol. viii, p. 284. 

§ 8. To the T&sch Alp and VaUey. See p. 125. 

§ 9. To Heueten (Haueten). A stroll to the little Chapel (5804 feet, 
1769 mbtres) and back can be made within an hour. Fine view of Zermatt 
and the Valley. Wild raspberries round about, and many shady nooks and 
retired places, good for readers. Go over the Schwebsteg feridge, and by the 
path marked R on Plan of Zermatt. 



B. Extensions of Excnrsions 1 — 9. 

§ 10. To the Gomergrat, vid the Biffelalp Hotel and Biffelhaus. 
The most popular of all the excursions that are made from Zermatt. 
The way leads past the front of the Riffelalp Hotel, turns to the left 
at the angle of the building, and cannot be mistaken. It then makes 
for the Hotel Riffelberg or RifFelhaus (which is in full view), and for 
part of the way is steep. ^ After this latter hotel is passed, the 
gradients are moderate up to the summit. 

The Hotel Biffelberg, or Biffelhaus, 8429 feet, 2569 metres; one 
of the Seller Hotels ; open from June 10 to September 30 ; 50 beds ; 

1 "The Riffelberg, which from the second week in August is about as bare as the 
South Downs, is in July an almost continuous carpet of flowers, and it would be a 
good summer's work to botanize this district alone. Half way up the path from Zer- 
matt, in addition to the usual Anemones, there is an abundance of the purple Anemone 
Halleri; and higher up comes the small but elegant A. baldensis, and some of the 
rarer Ranunculuses, such as R. Pyrenceua and B. nUce/oHu8."—T. W. Hinchcliflf. 



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CHAP. IX. THE RIFFELHAUS (THE OLD 'EIFFEL'), 143 

Pension 10 to 14 francs per day in July and September (Pension- 
naires are not taken in August). Post and Telegraph. This Hotel 
was the earliest established of all the mountain inns round Zermatt, 
and was formerly called " The Riifel." Originally, it was a very small 




THE RIFFELHAUS (tHE OLD RIFFEL HOTEL). 



aifair, startetl as a specida- 
ticjn hy Hoine of tiie Zern tatters. 
It rem ai lift popular^ ncit with- 
standing the i;rejiter attrac- 
tions of itE4 big brother dtn\Ti 
below. 



The path leads away from the front of the Hotel, and in half an hour 
leaves the Riffelhom on the right. Fine view here of the Breithom. The 
prospect around increases in grandeur and extent as one rises, until at last, 
at the summit, one is encircled by a complete panorama of snowy peaks. 
For their names and elevations see Map of the Valley of Zermatt. The 
summit, 10,289 feet, 3136 metres, is now crowned by an inn, Hotel-Restau- 
rant BELY]6Di:RE (erected by the Commune in 1894-6), which intercepts the 
view, and does not add to its beauty. The southern portion of the panorama, 
extending from the Lysjoch to the Breithom, is perhaps the most striking 
section (see folding plate at the end of the volume, which is self-explanatory), 
and can hardly be rivalled in the Alps. 

The excursion may be prolonged by going to the Hohthaligrat, and the 
Stockhom, or by crossing the Gomer Glacier to the Cabane B^temps, on the 
rocks called Untere Plattje, — but there is no advantage in doing either. Return 
home can be varied by descending on to the Gomer Glacier, coming 2 or 3 
kils. down the ice, and remounting either upon the upper or the lower side 
of the Riffelhom. The times ascending are — 



Zermatt to Riffelalp Hotel 
Riffelalp Hotel to Riffelhaus . 
Riffelhaus to top of Gomergrat 



Total 



h. min. 

1 30 

40 

1 15 

3 hs. 35 min. 



Moving briskly, one can come down from the Gornergrat to Zermatt by the 
regular way (taking advantage, however, of all the short cuts) in 83 min. 



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CHAP. IX. GUGEL, THE HORN LI AND STOCK J E, 145 

This excursion can be made at any time of the day, but the morning is to be 
preferred. 

§ 11. Ascent of GujBrel, 8882 feet, 2707 metres. This can be included in 
Excursion 10. Gugel is an eminence, well seen from Zermatt, lying to the 
N.E. of the Riffelhaus, and E. of the Riffelalp Hotel. In descending from 
the Grornergrat, strike off to the right from the path, when about ^ h. down, 
at the drinking-shed kept by Kronig. Though only 453 feet higher than the 
Riffelhaus, Gugel commands a much finer prospect. It looks right down the 
Valley of Zermatt, overlooks the Findelen Valley and Glacier, the Trift Valley, 
and every peak is visible from it that can be seen from the Gornergrat, 
excepting Monte Rosa. The Riffelhom groups effectively with the Breithorn, 
and the view of the Matterhorn is the finest that can be had of it from the 
North. For obtaining a comprehensive understanding of the surroundings of 
Zermatt, there is no single pointe de vue equal to the summit of Gugel. It 
can be reached in half an hour from the Riffelhaus. From its summit one 
can descend direct upon the Riffelalp Hotel, or go down into and return by 
the Findelen Valley. 

§ 12. A visit to the Hdmli ^nd the Matterhorn cabane on the Hornli 
ridge is an extension of Excursion 2. 

There is a fair path, starting in front of the Lac Noir Hotel, which leads 
to the Hornli ; at first over rather rough, stony ground, then past a little lake 
(of recent formation) by the side of the Furgg Glacier, and then along the 
moraine on the left bank of the glacier. The path passes underneath and 
goes beyond the Hornli, and «a little clambering is necessary to reach the ridge 
from the moraine. Then double back to the cairn on the summit, 9492 feet, 
2893 metres. The views down the Valley of Zermatt, and (in the reverse 
direction) of the Matterhorn are striking. 

The hut called the Matterhorn aibane (see Illustration on p. 80) is situated 
on the Hornli ridge, upon the side facing the Furgg Glacier, a few hundred 
yards from the point where the Matterhorn rises abruptly. The way to it 
from the Hornli is mainly along the crest of the ridge. Axes are required 
for a little cutting here and there in ice or snow. The following remarks 
upon this cabane were printed in Alpina (the Ofl&cial organ of the Swiss Alpine 
Club), July 1, 1896. "EUe est trfes fr^quent^e, mais malheureusement mal 
construite et toujours humide ; il faudrait pour la mettre en €tat des frais et 
des travaux considerables. En attendant qu'une decision soit prise k ce sujet, 
le C. C. a re9u de M. Seiler I'assurance que, pour la saison prochaine, la 
cabane serait tenue propre et pourvue du mobilier rbglementaire. Malheureuse- 
ment les contrebandiers et les guides eux-m^mes ne se gbnent pas pour enlever 
les couvertures ou les couper en morceaux k leur usage personnel, ce qui n'est 
pas de nature k encourager k de nouveaux sacrifices." 

§ 13. To the Zmutt Glacier and Stockje is an extension of Excursion 3. 

Upon leaving Staff el, continue along the moraine on the right bank of the 
glacier or close to it ; cross it and make for the middle of the ice when 
tracks die out ; steer as directly as possible for the N.E. end of Stockje (a 
cliffy island surrounded by glacier) and skirt the base of its southern cliffs. 
Good examples of glacier-tables are often to be seen on the Zmutt Glacier. 
Track is marked on the Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers. From the 
ruined cabane, about 9154 feet, 2790 metres (on the S.W. end of Stockje), 
there is a magnificent view of the basin of the Tiefenmatten Glacier, with 
the Matterhorn, T^te du Lion, and the Dent d'H^rens on the farther side. 
The S.W. ridge of the Matterhorn is seen here nearly in profile, and the Col 
du Lion, Great Tower, and other points referred to in chap, ii are im- 
mediately opposite to the spectator. From this direction the Matterhorn 
looks its best under afternoon light. A whole day should be devoted to the 
excursion, starting early, and returning in time for table d'hdte. Take provi- 
sions from Zerviatt, 

L 



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146 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ix. 

§ 14. Ascent of the lower portion of the Oomer Glacier, to the Bififel- 
hom, returning by the Eiffelhaus or by the Riffelalp. 

This is a good excursion for those who wish to see a little of the ice world, 
and to get instruction in the use of the ice-axe. It is only a \valk if led by 
a competent guide. Go vvA the Matterhom Bridge ; take to the lower end 
of the Gomer Glacier (called the Boden Glacier) on the western side, where 
it is not steep. Use caution not to dislodge the rocks of the moraine which 
are sometimes poised verv insecurely here. Go up the middle of the glacier, 
inclining, however, towards its W. side, and cross it below the 'ice-fall* when 
approaching the Riffelhom. There are ways up the rocks on the N. side of 
the glacier both on the E. and the W. of the Riffelhom. The former brings 
you to the Riffelhaus, and the latter to the Riffelalp Hotel. To make the round 
comfortably requires 6 or 7 hours. 

§ 15. To the Fluh Alp and the Findelen Glacier is an extension of Ex- 
cursion 5. 

After passing the Village of Findelen, the path for a time rises to a con- 
siderable height above the glacier ; but at the Fluh Alp, where there is a 
little inn wluch will be reached in If to 2 hs., they come near together. 
Notice tile lateral moraines. The nearest one is grass-grown ; the next is to 
a large extent composed of ice, having a superficial covering of boulders and 
moraine matter. The general level of the glacier is now much beneath the 
moraines, which probably are very ancient. The path is partly carried along 
them. When it dies out, cross the glacier, and return down the left bank. 
This excursion can be maide longer or shorter, and is another which affords a 
peep into the ice-world. Bring provisions from ZermcUt. Guides are necessary 
for all except experts. 

§ 16. To Triftkummen, viA the Trift Gorge and Trifb Hotel, is an exten- 
sion of Excursion 6. 

The way up the Trift Gorge leads in about 2 hs. from Zermatt to a 
little inn. The path in some places is not good, and is not recommended to 
infirm persons. After the inn is passed, it becomes better, and the valley 
opens out into a rather considerable basin, bounded by the Unter and Ober 
Gabelhorns, the Trif thorn, Rothhom (Morning), and the Mettelhorn. About 
40 min. above the Hotel there is a vallon (Tliftknnimen) extending north- 
wards (at the head of which there is the Mettelhorn), good hunting-ground 
for botanists and entomologists. Return can be made by a different path, 
which will bring you to the Railway Station at Zermatt. The round can be 
made in an afternoon. 

§ 17. From Heueten, viA the Tufteren Alp to the Eggen Alp, returning 
by the Findelen Valley, is an extension of Excursion 9. 

From the Chapel at Heueten strike upwards towards the E. through the 
forest. The ground is easy, and paths may be ignored. When well above 
the trees, bear round to the right {i.e. to the Sj, along the lower slopes of 
the Unter Rothhom, and steer towards the Gomergrat, which will be per- 
ceived in the distance. Keep bearing round to the right, and presently you 
will see the cha,lets of Eggen. Return home through the Village of Findelen. 
The excursion may be lengthened by descending upon the Stelli See, instead 
of upon Eggen. The ground is easy, and one can go anywhere. This excur- 
sion is suitable for any hour of the day. 

§ 18. The Ascent of the Riffelhom, 9616 feet, 2931 metres, may be 
combined with Excursions 1 or 10. 

The Riffelhom is a knob of rock S.S.E. of the Riffelhaus, distant 
1^ kils., on the northern side of the Gomer Glacier. It is commonly 
ascended either from the E. or from the W. It can also be climbed 
from the S., vid the Gomer Glacier, by more than one way. This 
side is steep. 



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CHAP. IX. THE RIFFELHORN, 147 

Prof. J. D. Forbes, writing in 1855, said no guide of Zermatt had attained 
the summit of the Riffelhorn. "In 1841, I attempted it by the western side, 
and arrived within a few fathoms of the top, when I was stopped by a cleft. 
In 1842, however, some English students of Hofwyl found a circuitous path on 
the eastern side, by which the top may be gained without much difficulty." 
But it seems from a letter contributed by Mr. F. C. Grove to the Alpine 
Journal in 1874 that the boys of Hofwyl were not the first to get up the 
Riffelhorn. "The simple but exciting pastime," says Mr. Grove, "of rolling big 
stones from the top of the Riffelhorn on to the glacier below was the means 
last autumn" (1873) "of bringing a curious relic to light. Two American 
travellers who were enjoying this exhilarating sport last August determined to 
signalize their visit by sending down a bolt of unusual magnitude. Having 
fixed upon a stone of such size that it was as much as two men could do to 
move it, they prized it with great difficulty from its bed, when to their surprise 
they found in the site thus laid bare a jfevelin or spear-head, which must have 
been lying under the stone for time indefinite. The weapon thus strangely 
discovered was of bronze, and may have been some seven or eight inches long ; 
the workmanship was admirable, quite as good as the foiging one sees now. 
The striking end was not pointed, but beaten out into a blade resembling a 
boldly rounded chisel ; the other end must have fitted wedge fashion into a 
cleft shaft, and had two flanges on each side. .. As it is not impossible that 
other weapons may be found near the place where this was discovered, it may 
be worth while for some travellers during the coming season to vary the sport 
of rolling down stones by a careful examination of the upper rocks." 

Mr. Hinchcliff, speaking of the ferns which may be found in this locality, 
said, "Hidden in tiie interstices of a group of loose rocks not far from the 
foot of the Riffelhorn, at a height of about 8600 feet, I know of a few speci- 
mens" (of the holly fern) "which, though very interesting in respect of the 
elevation at which they contrive to exist, are scarcely larger than those for 
which the Keswick guides endeavour to extort fabulous prices. Close to these, 
and concealed by the same friendly stones from all but the most inquisitive 
eyes, may be found a few tufts of Asplenium viride^ with fronds of about half 
the usual length, but double the usual number — evidently the very best arrange- 
ment that could be devised for their protection at such an unaccustomed alti- 
tude. Cy8topteris fragilii^ in the same place, is not only dwarfed, but much 
beaten about by weather. About 100 yards further, however, in the recesses 
of a cave facing the Gomer Glacier, and entirely protected from the possibility 
of a chilling b^t, it may be found in thick bunches of delicate green fronds, 
as perfectly developed as if they were at the bottom of an Italian valley." 

There is a legend of a *wild man of the Riffelhorn,' who was morose and 
unsociable, and was 'removed' by his neighbours in a way which strongly 
resembled murder. "A Zermatt, sur le Rjrffel, dans le voisinage du Rjrffelhom, 
est ime caveme assez spacieuse avec une ^troite entree. lA demeurait une 
fois un berger bien strange. A force de garder seul ses moutons, il ^tait 
devenu si farouche et misanthrope qu'il en €tait compl^tement sauvage et qu'il 
ne prenait sa nourriture quotidienne <^ue si on la diposait quelque part, sans 
se laisser voir ; car dbs qu'il apercevait un ^tre humain, il prenait la fuite et 
se cachait dans les montagnes. Peu \ peu il se d^roba aux regards, erra 
toujours dans la solitude autour des troupeaux, apaisant sa faim avec des 
moutons qu'il d^robait. Voulant en finir avec ce voleur de moutons, les gens 
du village cherchferent k le prendre, mais leurs peines furent inutiles. Dfes 
qu'il s'apercevait qu'on I'^piait, il fuyait toujours sur le Rjrffelhom oil Ton 
arrivait par un sentier unique et dangereux. II le d€fendait avec une telle 
intrepidity et recevait les assaillants avec un telle gr6le de pierres, que ceux- 
ci renon^aient ^ emporter la forteresse. On ne vit pas d'autre moyen de s'en 
d^barrasser que de tirer sur lui comme sur un chamois, ce que fit im jour im 
chasseur." — L'Echo des Alpes, Greneva, 1873, pp. 27-8. 

Easy as the climb is upon the land side, the Riffelhorn has had 
its victim. On the morning of July 18, 1865, Mr. W. K. Wilson 



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148 ZEBMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. ix. 

m«ade the ascent with some friends, accompanied l>y guides, and later 
in the day attempted to climb the peak alone. He was missed in 
the evening, and efforts were made from the Riffel to discover him ; 
hut, as they were fruitless, Mons. Alex. Seller called for volunteers 
at Zermatt. We walked up through the night, and found the body 
of Mr. Wilson immediately, without search, on the side of the Riffel- 
hom above the lake. Apparently, he had fallen from a considerable 
height, and death had been instantaneous. Although so short a time 
had elapsed, the body was already in a shocking condition. See p. 131. 

§ 19. A round vid Staffel, the Lac Noir, etc. 

A capital excursion (a combination of several of those already mentioned) 
can be made by going up the Zmutt Valley to Staffel, then turning to the left 
for the Lac Noir ; descending upon and crossing the lower part of the Furgg 
Glacier, and proceeding by the Th^dule route as far as the lower Th^dule 
hut (Gandeck or Gandegg, see section D, Passes from Zermatt, and chap, xi) ; 
descending thence on to the Unter Th^dule Glacier, and going by it viA the 
Riffelhom to the Riffelalp Hotel ; returning by route § 1, v^A Findelen. An . 
entire day should be allowed. Start early. Take lunch No. 1 at the Lac Noir 
Hotel, No. 2 at the Riffelalp Hotel, and get home in time for table dlidte. 

§ 20. By the Fluh Alp to the Findelen Glacier, and round by the 
Stockhorn Pass, returning down the whole length of the Gomer 
Glacier. 

This is the finest excursion of its description that can be made 
from Zermatt. Every phase in the life of a glacier, from its cradle 
to its grave, can be seen upon it. There are Crevasses, open and 
concealed ; Seracs and Ice-falls ; Glacier-rivers and Moulins ; Glacier- 
tables and Moraines. It is not included in the Tarif. Start before 
daybreak, and take provisions from Zermatt. 

The route is by path until beyond the Fluh Alp, and then along the right 
bank of the Findelen Glacier, partly over moraine (the way so far is the same 
as for the Adler Pass). Cross the glacier in the direction marked on the 
Valley of Zermatt Map, and zigzag through some riven ice to the simamit, 
11,204 feet, 3415 metres, which lies due E. of the Stockhorn. Grand view of 
the Lyskamm. Shortly afterwards the route joins that for the Cima di Jazzi 
and the New Weissthor. Upon arriving at Gadmen, do not take to the lower 
slopes of the Gomergrat, but continue down the whole length of the Gomer 
Glacier, and return home by the Matterhom Bridge. If led by a competent 
guide, this excursion is a walk. 

C. Ascents from Zermatt. 

Zermatt itself is not the best starting-point for several of the 
Ascents which are included in the Zermatt Tarif, For some it is 
better to start from the Riffelalp Hotel (see chapter x), and for 
others from Randa (pp. 118-121), the Taschalp (pp. 122-5), etc. The 
following ones are still made from Zermatt, though there are a few 
of these (Ober Gabelhom, Zinal Rothhom, Trifthorn, etc.) for which 
the Trift Inn is sometimes used. 

The Mettelhom, 11,188 feet, 3410 mHres ; 7 to 8 hs. up and down. There 
are two ways from Zermatt, both leading to Triftkummen. See § 16. One 
can ride up to the head of this vallon ; thence it is 30 to 40 min. over snow 
and rock to the top of the Mettelhom. The view is good from it of the 



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CH. IX. ''THE WHOLE TOP FELL WITH A CRASH:' 149 

Weisshom, Zinal Rothhorn, Gabelhom and Matterhorn, but it is as a whole 
much inferior to that from the Gornergrat, which can be seen with less 
trouble. 

The Unter Ghibelhom, 11,149 feet, 3398 metres, 7 to 8 hs. up and down, 
is reached viA the Trift Inn. As a point of view this is also much inferior 
to the Gromergrat. 

The way for the Unter Rothhorn, 10,190 feet, 3106 metres (6 to 7 hs. up 
and down), goes by Heueten and the Tufteren Alp (see § 17) round the N.W. 
slopes of the mountain, and then turns to the S.E. up a vallon (Riederkummen) 
leading to a depression between it and the Ober Rothhorn. From this Col 
(9800 feet, 2987 metres) turn to the right, up the peak. Then descend to the 
Col, and re-ascend by the crest of the ridge to the summit of the Ober 
Rothhorn, 11,214 feet, 3418 metres. Return again to the Col, and descend 
into the Findelen Valley, between the Stelli See and Eggen, and return home 
viA the Village of Findelen. The round can be made in 7i to 8 hs., and is a 
good preparatory walk for those who wish to make more difficult excursions. 

The Wellenkuppe,! 12,828 feet, 3910 metres, and the Trifthom, 
12,261 feet, 3737 mHres, are more considerable peaks, — the former 
on the S. and the latter on the N. of the pass called the Triftjoch, 
from the summit of which both can be ascended. The view from each 
is shut out to a large extent by their loftier neighbours the Ober 
Gabelhom, and Zinal Rothhorn. These latter are two of the chief 
mountains one can ascend from Zermatt, and in connection with them 
there are incidents to relate, which are instructive, without comment. 
The first illustrates the desirability of making sure, when approaching 
summits or when climbing arHes, that there are no snow-cornices about ; 
and the second the peril into which a party may be put by the presence 
of a single inefficient or clumsy person, and the foolishness of placing 
such an individual last in the line, when descending. 

The Ober Gabelhom (formerly called simply the Gabelhom), 13,363 
feet, 4073 mHres, was first ascended on July 6, 1865, by Messrs. A. 
W. Moore and H. Walker, with Jakob Anderegg, who left Zermatt 
at 12.20 a.m., went over the southern portion of the Trift Glacier 
(now called the Gabelhom Glacier) to the wall of rocks at its head ; 
climbed these to the N.E. ridge of the mountain, followed its aritc 
to the summit, and returned to Zermatt by 7.15 p.m. 

On the following day Lord Francis Douglas, with Peter Taugwalder 
pdre and Joseph Viennin, ascended the mountain from Zinal, and they 
saw, by the footsteps, that others had been there before them. "We 
sat down to dine," he said, in an account found amongst his papers, 
"when, all of a sudden, I felt myself go, and the whole top fell with 
a crash thousands of feet below, and I with it as far as the rope al- 
lowed (some 12 feet). Here, like a flash of lightning, Taugwald came 

1 The Wellenkuppe is the point marked 3910 metres on the Valley of Zermatt Map. 
Its summit appears to have been first reached in July, 1865, by Lord Francis Douglas, 
upon one of his attempts to ascend the Ober Gabelhom. The following remarks, which 
were found after his death among his papers, contain all that is known on the subject. 
"We had made two previous attempts" (to ascend the Ober Gabelhom) "in vain. In 
the first attempt we ascended the Unter Gabelhom, leaving Zermatt at 11 o'clock at 
night, but, at 3 o'clock on the following day, found ourselves only at the foot of the 
Gabelhom, and had to return. In the second attempt, we reached the summit of another 
peak of the Gabelhom, about 13,000 feet in height, which lies immediately to one's left 
in crossing the Trift pass from Zermatt, but the arHe connecting this with the Gabelhom 
was found impracticable. I cannot conceive why this mountain has no name. It is very 
often mistaken for the Gabelhom." 



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150 ZERMATT AND THE MATTEBHORN, chap. ix. 

right by me some 12 feet more ; but the other guide who had only 
the minute before walked a few feet from the summit to pick up 
something, did not go down with the mass, and thus held us both. 
The weight on the rope must have been about 23 stone, and it is 
wonderful that, falling straight down without anything to break one's 
fall, it did not break too. Joseph Viennin then pulled us up, and we 
began the descent to Zermatt."^ 

Both of these routes are long. On Sept. 3, 1877, Messrs. W. E. Davidson and 
J. W. Hartley, with Peter Rubi and Jonann Jaun, hit off a better one, and it 
is this which is now usually followed, with a slight variation. They followed 
the usual path to the Triftjoch until they reached the top of the moraine 
dividing the Trift from the Grabelhorn Glacier, and crossing the glacier made for 
a well-defined snow col, at the foot of the final peak, on the S.E. ridge (that 
running from the Ober to the Unter Gabelhorn, separating the Arben from the 
Gabelhom Glacier). From the 6ol, they followed the ar^ of the ridge, some- 
times bearing down a little on to the eastern face. From Zermatt and back 
occupied 11 hours actual walking. The Gabelhom has also been ascended by 
several other routes. 

In 1895, Mr. W. E. Davidson, with Christian Klucker and Daniel Maquignaz, 
started from the Trift Inn and ascended the Wellenkuppe ; then went straight 
along the ar^te of the ridge connecting it with the Ober Gabelhorn ; crossed 
the latter mountain and descended to the Arbenjoch ; and returned to the 
Riffelalp Hotel the same evening ! 

The Zinal Boihhom (or Morning),^ formerly called the Kothhom only, 13,855 
feet, 4223 metres, was first ascended from the side of Zinal by Mr. F. C. Grove 
and Mr. Leslie Stephen, with the guides Melchior and Jakob Anderegg, on Aug. 
22, 1864. The usual route for the Trift Pass was taken from Zinal as far as 
the top of the great ' ice-fall * of the Durand Glacier ; they then turned to the 
left, i.e. to the north-east, and made for the ridge connecting the Rothhom 
with Lo Besso, and went along this ridge until it joined the northern ridge 
of the Rothhom, which was then followed to the summit. The difficulties were 
concentrated in the last part of the ascent. Three principal pinnacles upon 
the northern ridge had to be turned or surmounted. After the first one had 
been dealt with, Mr. Stephen says, "A severe piece of chimney-sweep practice 
then landed us once more upon the razor edge of the arite. The second pinnacle 
demanded different tactics. On the Zermatt side it was impractically steep, 
whilst on the other it fell away in one of the smooth sheets of rock already 
mentioned. The rock, however, was here seamed by deep fissures approximately 
horizontal. It was possible to insert toes or fingers into these, so as to present 
to telescopic vision (if anyone had been watching our ascent) much the appear- 
ance of a fly on a pane of glass. Or, to make another comparison, our method 
of progression was not unlike that of the caterpillars, who may be observed 
first doubled up into a loop and then stretched out at full length. When two 
crevices approximated, we should be in danger of treading on our own fingers, 
and, the next moment, we should be extended as though on the rack, clutching 
one crack with the last joints of our fingers, and feeling for another with the 
extreme points of our toes. . . The third, which now rose within a few yards, 
was of far more threatening appearance than its predecessors. After a brief 
inspection we advanced along tne ridge to its base. In doing so we had to 
perform a manoeuvre which, though not very difficult, I never remember to have 
previously tried. One of the plates to Berlepsch's description of the Alps 
represents a mountain-top, with the national flag of Switzerland waving from 

1 I think this account is exaggerated, and that the rope could not have failed to 
part if the two fell the distance and in the manner described. The summit of the 
Ober Gabelhom and the crests of the ridges near it are frecjuently garnished with snow- 
cornices (such as broke away on this occasion), which are distinctly visible from the Lac 
Noir and RiflFelalp Hotels. 

2 There are three other Rothhoms in the Valley of Zermatt. See Appendix E. 



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CHAP. IX. BINER KILLED ON THE ROTHHORN. 151 

the summit and a group of enthusiastic mountaineers swarming round it. One 
of them approaches, astride of a sharp ridge, with one leg hanging over each 
precipice. Our position was similar, except that the ridge by which we 
approached consisted of rock instead of snow. The attitude adopted had the 
merit of safety, but was deficient in comfort. The rock was so smooth, and 
its edge so sharp, that as I crept along it, supported entirely on my hands, 
I was in momentary fear that a slip might send one-half of me to the Durand 
and the other to the Schallenberg Glacier." Including halts, 16 hs. 50 min. 
were taken in going from Zinal to the summit and back. 

A way up the Rothhorn from Zermatt was found on Sept. 5, 1872, by 
Messrs. Dent and Passingham, under the leading of that excellent mountaineer 
and guide the late Franz Andermatten, with two other guides. The route 
taken on this occasion is substantially that which is followed at the present 
time. It is marked on the Map of the Valley of Zermatt. The summit is 
reached from the south. Including halts, 16 hs. were occupied from Zermatt 
and back. In descending, when not far beneath the top, an incident occurred 
(happily without serious result) of a closely similar character to another which 
caused the loss of a life (at almost exactly the same place) in 1894. ** Suddenly," 
says Mr. Dent, " I heard a shout from above ; Franz and I both glanced up 
at once. A large, flat slab of rock that had afforded us good hold on the 
ascent, but proved to have been only frozen in to a shallow basin of ice, liad 
been dislodged by the shakiest touch'^ from above, and was coming straight at 
us. . . Just above me it turned its course slightly. Franz, who was close 
beneath me more in its direct line of descent, attempted to stop it, but it 
ground his hands cruelly against the rock, and passed on swiftly, straight to 
Imseng. A yell from us hardly awoke him to the danger ; the slab slid on 
faster and faster ; but, just as we expected to see our guide swept away, it 
gave a bound for the first time, and, as with a startled expression he flung 
himself against the rock face, it leapt up, and flying by within a few inches of 
his head thundered disappointed down below." 

On Sept. 20, 1894, Dr. P. Horrocks was descending the Rothhorn, with the 
guides Peter Perm 2 and Joseph Marie Biner, both of Zermatt; and, when 
at almost precisely the spot mentioned above, very nearly came to his death, 
through the dislodgment of a boulder. " Perm, who was last, was standing 
behind and holding on to a fair-sized rock, round which he was paying out 
the rope ; while Dr. Horrocks crossed the slab, and Biner gradually pulled 
in the slack. Suddenly the rock in which Perm placed such confidence came 
out, and bounded down the mountain side. Perm slid rapidly down the steep 
rocks ; Dr. Horrocks, who had no foothold and very little handhold, was jerked 
from his position, turning a somersault, and becoming momentarily stunned 
from his head striking against the rock. The strain on the rope was too 
great for Biner to withstand, and he was dragged down too. The whole 
party half tumbled, half slid, down the very steep smooth rocks for 30 or 40 
feet, when the rope between Dr. Horrocks and Perm caught behind a pro- 
jecting rock, and brought them both to a standstill. Perm found himself 
landed in a small patch of soft snow some 15 feet below the rock which had 
so fortunately engaged the rope, while Dr. Horrocks, some 7 feet higher up, 
though at first suspended with his back to the steep rocks, was very soon 
able to get more or less foothold. Poor Biner had the extra length of his 
own rope still to fall, and, when the strain came, the rope broke, according 
to one account, half-way between him and Dr. Horrocks ; according to another, 
rather nearer to the latter. Biner fell down on to the Durand Glacier some 
2000 feet below." Dr. Horrocks was rescued from his perilous position by 
some guides who were closely following. 

The Rothhorn was climbed from the W. in 1878. Time from the Mountet 
cabarie to Zermatt lOJ hs. On Aug. 9, 1873, "Mr. F. Morshead, with Melchior 

1 In the original, these words are not in italic. Although the name of the guide who 
dislodged this rock is not stated, it is easy to tell who he was. He is a man notorious 
for accidents. 

2 Not the Peter Perm who is mentioned in earlier pages of this volume. 

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152 ZEBMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, CHAP. ix. 

Anderegg and Christian Lauener, started from the Zinal hut" (Mountet) "and 
crossed over the top of the Rothhom to Zermatt in the astonishingly short 
space of nine hours (halts included)." — Alpine Journal^ vol. vi, p. 365. 

Certain of the ascents which are included in the Zermatt Tarif 
may be dismissed from consideration (Plattenhomer or Blattenhomer, 
8. of and less elevated than the Mettelhom ; Ebihom ; Mominglioni ; 
Mont Durand or Arbenhom ; Pointe de Zinal ; Scballhom or Scballi- 
bom). Others are best made from the RiiFelalp Hotel (Monte Bosa ; 
Lyskamm ; Castor and Pollux). The Breitbom and Petit Mont Cervin 
are usually ascended vid the Th6odule Pass, and are referred to in 
section D. Passes from Zermatt. The Dent d'Herens is ordinarily 
ascended from Prerayen (Valpelline), or from Breuil (Val Tournanche). 
The ascent of the T§te Blancbe, when made, is generally combined 
with the passage of the Col de Valpelline. 

The Dent Blancbe, 14,318 feet, 4364 metres, is the most important 
of the residual mountains included in the Tarif, but its ascent is 
better made from the head of the Val d'H6rens (Valley of Evolena) 
than from Zermatt, and upon such occasions as it is attempted from 
Zermatt it is usual to pass a night on Stockje. It is not easy to 
say what length of time is likely to be occupied upon any of the 
several ways up the Dent Blanche, for it is known by experience 
that the time wiU largely depend upon the state of the weather and 
the condition of the mountain, and this is very variable. 

The first ascent of the Dent Blanche was made on July 18, 1862, by Mr. 
T. S. Kennedy and Mr. Wigram, with the guides Jean-Baptiste Crozi (brother 
of Michel-Auguste Croz) and — Kronig of Zermatt. under unfavourable con- 
ditions. They started from the chA,lets of Abricolla (Alpe Bricolla), on the 
eastern side of the Glacier de Ferpbcle, about 3 hs. above Evolena, and 
ascended partly by the S.W. face, and partly by the ridge running south- 
wards from the summit. This track is marked on the Map of the Valley of 
Zermatt. 

The Dent Blanche has also been ascended by the S. ridge ; from the Schon- 
buhl Glacier ; from Zinal by the E. ridge ; and from Ferpfecle by the westerly 
ridge. The following times have been occupied on various occasions. 
1862. First Ascent. From Abricolla and back, 16 hs. 
1864. Second Ascent, by Mr. Finlaison. From Abricolla and back, about 

13 hs. 
1874. Mr. Whitwell took 16 hs. 20 min. from a camping -place on the 
Schonbuhl Glacier, 6 hs. from Zermatt, to the top and back to Zermatt. 
1876. Mr. F. Gardiner took 16J hs. from the Stockje cahane (now in ruins) 

to the top, and down to Ferp^cle. 
1882. Messrs. Anderson and Baker from the Mountet cahane to Stockje 

occupied about 19^ hs. 
1886. Messrs. Lorria and Lammer took the whole of a long day in going 
from Stockje to the top, and did not get back to their starting-point 
at nightfall. 

1889. Mr. Eckenstein, from Zermatt and back to Zermatt, took 27^ hs. vid, 
the Schonbuhl Glacier. Their route "is believed to be the worst yet 
taken." — Alpine Journal, vol. xiv, p. 499. 

1890. Three Members of the Alpine Chib took 38 hours from Stockje to 
the top, and back to Stockje. 

1 Some of his early friends will be glad to hear that this excellent guide (whose 
name is associated with several of the first ascents in the Zennatt district) is still living ; 
and that he is, though retired from his profession, in good preservation. 



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CHAP. IX. • THE THEODULE, 153 

In April, 1893, the Dent Blanche was ascended from AbricoUa and back in 
about 21 J hours. 

On August 11, 1882, Mr. W. E. Gabbett (a Durham Tutor) passed the night 
at Stockje, with Joseph -Marie Lochmatter and his eldest son, intending to 
make the ascent of the Dent Blanche on the next day, and to return to 
Zermatt. As they did not re-appear, search was made for them on the 14th, 
and the bodies of the three were found, 200 feet apart, about 2500 feet below 
the summit, all frightfully disfigured and scarcely recognisable. Most of their 
clothing was gone, and neither watches nor ice-axes could be discovered. Mr. 
Gabbett was buried at Zermatt (see p. 131), and the Lochmatters at St. 
Nicholas (p. 110). The cause of the accident is unknown. The mountain is 
said to have been at the time in the best possible condition. * 



D. Passes from Zermatt. 

The Theodule Pass 2 (Matteijoch or CoUe S. Teodulo), 10,899 feet, 
3322 metres, is the most frequented of the snow-passes leading out of 
the Valley of Zermatt, and perhaps was the first that was discovered. 
See chap, i It is easy to traverse, and is useful as a route between 
the upper Valley of the Rhone and the Valley of Aosta. De Saussure. 
took mules across in 1789, and Ruden said (in 1870) that according 
to some of the old inhabitants the traffic between Zermatt and Aosta 
was very considerable. One might see, " though very seldom, a string 
of 25 to 30 beasts of burden " crossing it at one time. Cows and 
mules are still taken over occasionally. Of late years the glaciers 
which have to be traversed have shrunk considerably, especially that 
upon the Italian side. Although the crevasses on the route are seldom 
large, rope should always, be employed. I have seen, upon various 
occasions, Italian peasants crossing alone, provided with no implement 
except an umbrella. Skeletons of persons unknown are found upon 
this pass from time to time. 

The way to the Theodule from Zermatt leads over the Matterhorn Bridge, 
and at the beginning is the same as the route for the Lac Noir. See p. 139. 
It then goes away to the left from the latter path, and mounts along the 
right bank of the Gomer Glacier, at some height above the ice ; crosses the 
stream (Furggbach) coming from the Furgg Glacier, and ascends (sometimes 
in zigzags) towards the edge of the Ober Theodule Glacier (for track see Map 
of Matterhorn and its Glaciers), which it skirts, over rocky ground (part of 
this is called Leichenbretter),* until arriving at Z'Wangen, the southern ex- 
tremity of the rocks, where there is a small inn, at about 9900 feet, Gandeck 
or Gandegg, known as the lower Theodule cabane. Not recommended. 
[When H.M. the Queen of Italy came this way in 1894, she stopped a night 
at Gandeck. Next morning when the bill wiis presented there was found an 

1 Joseph-Marie Lochmatter was a large and powerful man, and was one of the best 
guides in the Valley. See p. 68. 

2 Sometimes written Th6odulepass, Theodul Pass, St. Theodule Pass. The height given 
above is the elevation assigned to it on the Siegfried Map. The Carta (V Italia makes 
it 2 metres more. In ordinary conversation the pass is simply called "the Theodule." 

3 The word Leichenbretter may be translated 'floored' or 'paved* with corpses. 
Mens. Alfred C6r680le says that the quietude of the Theodule has often been disturbed 
by murderous combats. "II 5' en eut un si formidable jadis entre Pi6montais et Val- 
aisans qu'on ne sut oix enterrer la masse des cadavres. lis furent laiss^s sur le sol en 
si grand nombre que pendant bien longtemps le glacier rejeta leurs squelettes et leurs 
armures jusque sur les rochers inf6rieurs qui se trouvent du cdt6 du nord ; ceux-ci 
portent encore aujourd'hui le nom significatif de Leichenbretter,*' 



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154 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. ix. 

item of 100 francs for firewood ! Her Majesty demurred at this royal charge, 
and took advice upon the subject.] From Zermatt to Grand eck will occupy 
3A to 4 hs. The inn is situated close to the edge of the Ober Theodule Glacier. 
Tlie paih ends there, and mules go no farther. In fine weather, the way can 
hardly be mistaken up to this point, but the higher part of it is readily 
obscured even by a slight fall of snow. For routes to Grandeck from the 
Riffelalp Hotel and from the Lac Noir Hotel, see chaps, x, xi. 

The distance from Gandeck to the summit of the Theodule, as the crow 
flies, is less than 3 kils., — all over snow-covered glacier. Put on the rope before 
embarking on the ice. Steer S.W. for about 10 min., until well on the glacier, 
and then make direct for the small cliffs of the Theodulhorn which will be 
seen in front, towards the south. Skirt them on the east, and at their southern 
end turn sharply to the right, where you will find the Inn (Pavilion da Col 
St. Theodule) on the summit of the pass. Beds. Civil proprietor. Prices 
reasonable. When the place is not overcrowded, one may pass a night com- 
fortably here. From Gandeck to the summit of the pass takes about 1 h. 
30 min. 

The View from the Summit is interesting all round. The Matterhom looks 
gigantic, and finer than from the Brei thorn. One sees Hhe shoulder,' and the 
notch between it and the final peak which stopped Tyndall ; 'the Great Tower,* 
the T^te and Col du Lion, and various other points referred to in chap ii. 
See outline on p. 44. The Theodulhorn comes in front of the Matterhom, and 
it can be readily ascended from the Pass. On the Italian side the Grand 
Paradis, Grivola and Ruitor are amongst the most prominent features in the 
distance, and the Bee de Luseney and Dent d'H^rens are the chief ones upon 
the right hand (western side) of the Val Tournanche. In the sirncs close at 
hand, on the south, the stratification of the snow is generally well seen. 

\Th» Petit Mont Cervin and the Breithom.— In 1792, after measuring the 
height of the Matterhom, De Saussure and his son, guided by Marie Coutet 
(Couttet) of Chamonix, went up the Petit Mont Cervin, and said that at that 
time it had never been ascended by mortal man. [yoyaaes, § 2247.] He called 
it *la Cime-Brune du Breit-Hom,' but this appellation has not been adopted. 
The De Sausaures declined the ascent of the Breithom, partly on accoimt of 
"the fatigue and dangers which the steepness of the slopes would have caused 
them," and also because examination of its rocks could not be made, from their 
being entirely covered with snow. **As it," he said, "presents a large and 
rounded summit to those who approach it on the side of Zermatt, the name 
Breit-horn or Cime- Large appears to suit it very well." 

The Breithom is said to have been first ascended by Mons. Henri Maynard 
in 1813.1 Sir John Herschell went up it in 1821 (or 1822), and is said to have 
been "led to believe that he had attained the most elevated point of this great 
cluster, and to maintain that Saussure had greatly overrated its height" [i.e. 
the height of Monte Rosa] "in his trigonometrical measurement on the side of 
Macugnaga."'-* Lord Minto went up the Breithom in 1830, with his son William 
(a boy of sixteen), who "excited much compassion" [at Zermatt] "as they 
thought it hard that so young a boy should be led up to perish so cruelly." 

The Ascent of the Breithom, 13,685 feet, 4171 mHres, has become 
extremely popular. It is best to start at an early hour from the 
inn on the Theodule (rather than from Zermatt or the Riffelalp), 
and to arrive on the summit soon after daybreak. The panorama that 
may be enjoyed from the top is one of the finest (some say the finest) 

1 I take this from Conway's Climber's Guide to the Eastern Pennine Alps, p. 6, but I 
have not been able to verify the statement. 

2 Quoted from Lord Minto's diajy in Alpiive Journal, vol. xvi, jj. 232. Lord Minto 
says that it was the wish to determine this doubtful point that first induced him to pro- 
ject his expedition. 

In Peaks, Parses and Glaciers, 2nd series, vol. ii, p. 260, Mr. Tuckett says that he 
believed no Zermatt guide had made the ascent of the Breithom before 1859 ! 



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CHAP. IX. 



ASCENT OF THE BRtllTHORN. 



155 




ON THE TOP OF THE COL THEODULE. 



that tia.n Ij^ ueen in the Zermatt 
district ■ anil, althouitih lesn exten- 
sive, ia more picturesque thiMi the 
vieWi^ from tlve siiiTiniit** of the still 
hiftior peiikx?* Ropt^ Bhouhl })e 
Uf^eil. Time fn>iii tht^ itm on the 
Theodule to the top about 2 hs. 
40 min. Tlie track is marked on 
the Valley of Zennatt Map. Time 
descending to the inn 1 h. 15 min. 

On leaving the inn, the way to the Breithorn at first slightly descends. It 
then mounts (for a time rather steeply) to a large snowy plateau, which is in- 
visible from below, and, after that is crossed, turns N. towards the mountain, 
and leads up a steep bank of snow to the western end of the summit ridge, 
which is followed to the top. When descending, the Petit Mont Cervin (Klein 
Matterhom), 12,750 feet, 3886 metres, can be taken en route at the cost of a little 
more than an hour.] 

The descent from the summit of the Theodule into the Val Tournanche 
commences at first in a N.W. direction, and the way skirts the base of the 
cliffs of the Furgg Grat, shewn in the illustration on p. 29. In less than 
half an hour the snow is quitted for tei^'a fii-vm, and the path descends in a 
(generally) W.S.W. direction to Breuil. The slopes are gentle, and one can 
go anywhere, but it is best to adhere to the path. 

Brenil (Breil) ; Hotel du Mont Cervin (Albergo del Monte 
Cervino), 6880 feet, 2097 mtoes ; Hotel des Jumeaux, 6575 feet, 
2004 metres. The former is the larger. The Hotel des Jumeaux 
(opened in 1895) is kept by Mons. Gab. Maquignaz, one of the very 
earliest explorers of the S. side of the Matterhom. See p. 21. 

The principal excursions from Breuil are — 1. The Ascent of the Matter- 
hom. 2. Ascent of the T^te du Lion. 3. Ascent of the Dent d'H^rens. 4. 
Ascent of the Cimes Blanches. The view from the Cimes Blanches is not 
much inferior to that from the Breithorn, and the ascent can be made at 
any hour of the day, though early morning is to be preferred. 

It often happens that there is a lack of guides at Breuil. In the middle 
of the season, the Val Tournanche men are more likely to be found at Zer- 
matt than in their own valley. Those at present upon the Register are — 



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156 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. ix. 




Z^r 






THE HOTEL DES JUMEAUX, BREUIL. 



Ansermin Agostino di Antonio. 
Aymonod G. Bjittista di Franc. 
BARBfASSE Giuseppe di G. Pietro. 
BiCH Luigi Alberto di Antonio. 
BiCH Pietro Daniele di Antonio. 
Carrel Cesare di G. Giacomo. 
Carrel G. Batt. di G. Antonio. 
Carrel Luigi di Antonio. 
GoRRBT Carlo di Antonio. 
GoRRET Massimiliano di G. Pietro. 
Maquignaz Antonio di Pietro. 
Maquignaz Daniele di G. Pietro. 
Maquignaz Giov. Battista. 



Mbynet Alberto di Salomone. 
Meynet Salomone di Battista. 
Pellissier Gius. Andrea di Ant. 
Pellissier G. Batt. di G. Agost. 
Perron Pietro Luigi di Agostino. 
Perruqdet G. Batt. di Anselmo. 
Pbssion Alessandro di Pietro. 
Pession Bernardo di Pietro. 
Pession Elia di Antonio. 
Pession Franc, di M. Antonio. 
Pession Pietro Gius. di Nicola. 
Pession Silvano di Pietro. 
Ravaz Salomone di Battista. 



About 20 min. below Breuil, a few hundred feet to the E. of the 
path to Val Tournanche, there is a small lake (Lac de Layet) with 
water of exquisite purity. The lake has no streams flowing into it, 
yet maintains an almost constant level, although two small streams 
flow out of it. One of these falls into the Val Tournanche torrent, 
and the other into a lakelet or pool slightly below the larger one. 
This lakelet has no visible outlet, yet the level of the water remains 
almost always the same. The vicinity is well-wooded, and extremely 
picturesque, and at midday, in good sunlight, the colouring Ls brilliant. 

Upon leaAnng Breuil the path to Val Tournanche follows the left bank of 
the valley, and for 35 min. keeps close to the torrent and descends gently. At 
about 50 min. from Breuil it comes to an abrupt descent, alongside the com- 
mencement of the Oouffres de BuBserailles, where the valley narrows, and the 
torrent disappears in a profound gorge. A little plain succeeds, and then 
there is another, smaller, descent. In 1 hour from Breuil the path crosses to 
the right bank. Ch&let against the bridge (with wine, beer, etc. at moderate 
prices), at the entrance to the Gouffires, which should be inspected. Admit- 
tance 1 franc. The torrent at this part of the valley passes through a fissure, 
which it has hollowed and polished in a remarkable manner. In Nov. 1865, 
Jean-Antoine Carrel induced two of the Maquignaz's to lower him by a rope 
into the chasm. One of the Maquignaz's subsequently descended in the same 
manner, and they were so struck by what they saw that they forthwith set 
to work with hammer and chisel to make a way into this romantic gulf, and 
constructed a rough but convenient plank gallery along its walls. In some 
places the torrent has wormed the rock and left natural bridges. The most 



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CHAP. IX. THE VAL TOURNANCHE. 157 

extraordinary features of the Gouffres are the caverns which the water has 
hollowed out of the heart of the rock. The plank path leads into one of the 
largest, about 28 feet in diameter, with the torrent 50 feet or so below. The 
cavern is lighted by candles, and talking in it can only be managed by signs. 
See Scrambles amongst the AlpSf chap. vi. 

The valley now opens out, and in about 20 min. you arrive at the 
Village of 

Val Touraanche, pop. 1200 (in the Commune) ; 4813 feet, 1467 
metres; Hotel du Mont Rose, small and plain. Very civil pro- 
prietor, who has kept the house for 40 years. Order Trout. They 
are sometimes taken here up to 6 lbs. in weight. The Church of Val 
Tournanche is ornate internally, and has tablets outside to the memory 
of Canon Carrel (see p. 75), Jean-Antoine Carrel (p. 86, etc.), and 
J. -J. Maquignaz (p. 78). The principal Excursions are the ascent of 




the Grand Tournalin, 11,086 feet, 3379 metres, situated due E. of the 
village, from the summit of which there is a magnificent panoramic 
view (see Scrambles amongst the Alps, chap, vi) ; and the passage of the 
Va Comere (Gra Cornbre, Col Courgnier, or Col du Mont Cornifere), 
10,325 feet? 3147 mHres? to the W.N.W. of the village,— a convenient 
way of getting across country to Prerayen in the Valpelline. The 
mule -path ends and a carriage - road begins at Val Tournanche. A 
post-cart goes in the afternoon, in 2 hs., to Ch^tillon, and comes up 
in the morning in 4 hours. Before starting, have a clear understanding 
a^ to ivhat the charge will be. Voitures from Val Tournanche to 
ChAtillon cost 8 to 12 francs, according to the bargaining power of 
the traveller. 

Upon leaving Val Tournanche the road descends rapidly, and soon 
crosses to the right bank of the valley, on which side it continues 
nearly all the way to Ch^tillon. It becomes increasingly picturesque. 



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158 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. ix. 



and for the most part of the distance passes through and under 
luxuriant foliage. Near Antey, notice the arches of an aqueduct on 

the western side of the valley, high 
.^1 .^' above the road. They are not Roman, 

as some guide-books say ; and appear 
to be the remains of an unfinished work. 
In 4 hs. from Val Toumanche you arrive 
at Cliatillon, in the Valley of Aosta. 
Hotel de Londres (against the bridge) ; 
Hotel-Pension Suisse. Trains go up 
the valley to Aosta in } h., and down 
the valley to Ivrea and Chivasso for 
Turin, etc. etc. 

The following are average times on 
the Theodule Pass. 




NEAR ANTEY. 



Zermatt to Ch&tillon. 



Zermatt to Gandeck (Gandegg) 
Gandeck to Summit of Theodule Pass . 
Summit of Theodule Pass to Breuil 
Breuil to Val Toumanche 
Val Toumanche to Ch^tillon (on foot) . 

Chfi,tillon to Zermatt. 

Chatillon to Val Toumanche . 

Val Toumanche to Breuil 

Breuil to Summit of Theodule Pass 

Summit of Theodule Pass to Gandeck . 

Gandeck to Zermatt .... 



Total 



h. 


min. 


3 


45 


1 


30 


2 


10 


1 


20 


3 


5 


11 


50 


4 




2 


10 


3 


20 




45 


2 


10 


12 


25 



Total 

The Breuiljoch and Forggjoch, two passes to the W. of the Theodule, at 
the foot of the Matterhom, are referred to in chap. xi. The next pass to the 
west, the Col de Toumanche, 11,378 feet, 3468 metres, crosses from the head 
of the Tiefenmatten Glacier, a little W. of the T6te du Lion, to the head of 
the Val Tournanche. On the first passage, made on Aug. 26, 1864, 13 hs. 
40 min. were occupied between Zermatt — Breuil. It is seldom traversed, and 
as a pass is useless. The Tiefenmattenjocli, 11,788 feet, 3593 metres, between 
the Dent d' Kerens and the T6te de Valpelline, from the bead of the western 
branch of the Tiefenmatten Glacier to the head of the Valpelline, like the last- 
mentioned, is useless as a pass, and is rarely crossed. Not recommended. 
Mr. A. W. Moore, who was its discoverer, said of it that it was evidently 
only passable under the Dent d'H^rens. "It unfortunately happens that this 
is the exact direction which every prudent man would desire to give as wide 
a berth as possible. . . The north face of the Dent d'Hdrens immediately 
above is for the most part precipitous rock, but at about half its height runs 
a broad band of broken sSracs. How the ice clings to the cliffs at all is a 
marvel, but that portions of it are liable to, and actually do, come down with 
a run at varying intervals of time, is a fact which the merest novice would 
see at a glance. The danger was palpable, and theoretically we ought not to 
have incurred it." — Alpine Jownal^ vol. v, p. 322. 



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CHAP. IX. 



THE COL DE VALPELLINE. 



159 



The Col de Valpelline, 11,687 feet, 3562 metres, the next pass 
on the west, leading from Zermatt to the Valpelline, is of a more 
practical character than the last-mentioned passes. For route see 
the Map of the Valley of Zermatt. It leads up the Zmutt Glacier, 
Stockhi, and Stock Glacier ; passes between the Tdte Blanche, 12,303 
feet, 3750 metres, and the T§te de Valpelline, 12,510 feet, 3813 




THE VILLAGE OF BIONA. 

metres (either of which may be ascended in \\ hs. from the summit 
of the pass) ; and descends upon Prerayen at the head of the Val- 
pelline, vid the Za-de-Zan Glaciers. From Zermatt to Prerayen or 
vice versd reckon 10 hours. At Prerayen there is a small inn (poor 
place) ; thence to Biona (path sometimes rough) 4 hours. No inn. 
Wine can be had at the Curb's, — a chamois hunter, gunny and genial. 
Biona to Valpelline, path good, 1 h. 50 min. ; small inn. Valpelline 
to Aosta in char-a-banc, 1 j to 2 lis., or on foot a little more. At 
Aosta, Hotel Victoria, against the Railway Station. Excellent 
hotel, kept by Sig. Bertolini of the Hotel Royal at Courmayeur. 



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160 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. ix. 



The Valpelline cannot compare in picturesqueness with the Val 
Toumanche. The most striking view to be seen on the pass is of the 
Matterhorn, just after crossing the summit from the Italian side. 
The following deviations from the ordinary route may be made by 
those who do not mind a little additional labour. 

[From the head of the Haiit Glacier de Za-de-Zan one can reach Prerayen 
by crossing the Col du Mont BruM and the Col de CoUon. Upon getting to 
the highest rocks on the Italian side of the Col de Valpelline, bear round to 
the right, to the right bank of the glacier, to the Col du Mont Brol^ (a 




THE MATTERHORN, FROM THE TOP OF THE COL DE VALPELLINE. 

little to the north of Mont Brul^). Thence descend steep rocks mixed with 
snow to the head of the Glacier d'Arolla; and, upon touching the highest 
part of the moraine on its right bank, cross the glacier, steering almost due 
West, to the foot of the cliffs of the peak called I'Evdque. Skirt the base of 
these cliffs, and presently sweep round to the South, and so arrive at the Col 
de CoUon (3130 metres, 10,269 feet), which is one of the easiest of the high 
snow-passes in this district. Time, top of Col de Valpelline to highest rocks, 
1 h. ; rocks to Col du Mont BruM, 2 hs. 10 min. ; Col to moraine, 1 h. ; moraine 
to summit of Col de CoUon, 90 min. ; Col de Collon to Prerayen, 3 hours. 

Prof. Forbes crossed the Col de Collon in 1842, and said, "the only traveller 
I am aware of as having passed here is M. Godefroy," but the pass was well 
known to the people of the country at that time, and was frequently used by 
smugglers. In descending towards the Arolla Glacier, Forbes' party came 
across the body of a man who had perished at the foot of Mont Collon, and 
lower down discovered remnants of two others. "A dark object was descried 



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CHAP. IX. THE COL D'HiRENS. 161 

on the snow to our left, just under the precipices of Mont Collon. . . This 
proved to be the body of a man fully clothed, fallen with his head in the 
direction in which we were going. From the appearance of the body as it lay, 
it might have been presumed to bo recent ; but when it was raised, the head 
and face were found to be in a state of frightful decay, and covered with 
blood, evidently arising from an incipient thaw, after having remained perhaps 
for a twelvemonth perfectly congealed. The clothes were quite entire and 
uninjured, and, being hard frozen, still protected the corpse beneath. It was 
evident that an unhappy peasant had been overtaken in a storm, probably of 
the previous year, and had lain there covered with snow during the whole 
winter and spring, and that we were now, in the month of August, the first 
travellers who had passed this way. The hands were gloved and in the pockets, 
in the attitude of a person maintaining the last glow of heat, and the body 
being extended on the snow, which was pretty steep, it appeared that he had 
been hurrying towards the valley when his strength was exhausted, and he 
lay simply as he fell. . . A very little farther on we found traces of another 
victim, probably of an earlier date ; — some shreds of clothes, and fragments of 
a knapsack ; but the body had disappeared. Still lower, the remains of the 
bones and skin of two chamois, and near them the complete bones of a man. 
The latter were arranged in a very singular manner, nearly the whole skeleton 
being there in detached bones, laid in order along the ice, — the skull lowest, 
next the arms and ribs, and finally the bones of the pelvis, legs, and feet, 
disposed along the glacier, so that the distance between the head and feet 
might be five yards." It was subsequently found that the body first discovered 
was that of a man who had started with eleven others to cross into Italy. 
Being overtaken by storm, they resolved to return ; but three of the number, 
worn out by fatigue, dropped behind and perished.] 

The Col d^Herens tformerly called Col d^Erin), 11,418 feet, 3480 
metres, leading from Zermatt to the Val d'H6rens, is an old pass, 
which is traversed rather frequently during the season. Track is 
marked on the Valley of Zermatt Map. Prof. Forbes, who crossed 
it in 1842, said he proposed to call it the Col d*Erin, as it had not 
yet received a name; and remarked that Venetz wrote in 1833 that 
this pass was so dangerous that he had never known but one man 
who had accomplished it. **I first heard of it," said Forbes, "from 
a guide at Zermatt, Peter Damatter, who told me, in 1841, that he 
had passed it." 

As a whole it is easy. When going from Zermatt, the route is the same 
as for the Col de Valpelline so far as the middle of the Stock Glacier. It 
then turns N.N.W., and crosses the ridge leading from the T6te Blanche to 
the Wandfluh. There is a small, rather steep, wall of rock and snow to 
ascend, at the base of which there is usually a small ber^chrund. On the 
northern side of the pass the slopes are gentle. From Zermatt to Alpe 
Bricolla (Abricolla) reckon 10-11 hours. 

The Col de la Dent Blanche (originally called Zinaljoch), 11,483 feet, 
3500 metres, leading from Zermatt to Zinal and the Val d'Anniviers, which 
passes between the Dent Blanche and the Pointe de Zinal, was first crossed 
on Sept. 6, 1872, by Mr. T. S. Phillpotts, with Peter Knubel and Elie Petter. 
They took 7| hs. from Mountet to Zermatt. "Three hours to summit from 
Mountet. Nearly 2 hs. were taken descending on the right of the Schon- 
buhl Glacier to Stockje. Ascent and descent easy. The first part of south 
side much exposed to stones from Dent Blanche, and therefore had better be 
taken early . . . 2$ hs. Stockje to Zermatt." — Alpine Journal^ vol. vi, p. 437. 
The track is marked on the Valley of Zermatt Map. Confusion has been 
caused by changing the original name of this pass. 

M 



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162 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. dc. 

The Col Dnraad, 11,398 feet, 3474 mHres, between the Pointe de Zinal 
and Mont Durand ^Arbenhom),^ leading to the Val d'Anniviers, is one of 
the easier of the high snow-passes in this district. According to Conway's 
Climber's Guide to the CentnU Pennine Alps, the summit has been reached in 

2 hs. from Mountet, and descent from the summit to Zermatt has been 
effected in 3 hours. When going from Zermatt over the Col Durand, pass 
through the village of Zmutt, and keep on the left bank of the Zmutt Valley. 

The Arbenjooh, 11,975 feet, 3d50 metres, between Mont Durand (Arbenhom) 
and the Ober Gabelhom, leading from Zermatt to the Val d'Anniviers, is one 
of the loftiest passes to the W. of Zermatt, and one of the finest, from the 
Alpinist's point of view. Its passage was first effected on July 8, 1875, by Mr. 
W. K r^vidson, with Laurent Lanier (Courmayeur) and a porter from 
Vissoie. They left Zinal at 2.45 a.m., proposing to cross the Col Durand, 
but at the Iu>c noir changed their intention, and 'turned to the left, bore 
diagonally across a snow pUtin, and passing beneath a range of enormous ice- 
ciiSay which rendered a direct approach to the Col impossible, arrived without 
difficulty at the foot of the N. W. face of the Gkbelhom, . . . passing upwards 
between two gigantic tiers of ice-cliffs, which were in a most unstable con- 
dition. The passage of the shucs was a work of much difficulty. . . It was 
not until 2 p.m. that we reached the plateau above the ice-fall, and we were 
then compelled, by the size and number of the crevasses, to bear to the left 
a long way out of our course until, at a point about 300 feet below the western 
ar6te of the Gabelhom, we crossed the bergschrund which guards its N.W. 
face. The final aXoyte was hard ice, and it cost us 1^ hs. of constant step- 
cutting to gain the ridge. . . The descent was by steep but easy rocks to 
the Axben Glacier, whence the route to Zermatt, which was reached at 8.45 
p.m., presents no difficulty whatever. . . All the difficulties are on the Zinal 
side. . . Time from Zinal to the Col, 13 hs. actual walking; Col to Zermatt, 

3 hs. 20 min. actual walking." — Alpine Journal, voL vii, p. 321. The Ober 
Grabelhom can be ascended from the Arbenjoch. See p. 150. 

The Trifyoch, 11,614 feet, 3540 metres, between the Trifthom 
and Wellenkuppe, leading from Zennatt to the Val d*Anniviers, is 
reputed to be an old pass, and it is the most direct one that can 
be taken. Frequently used during the season. Route is marked on 
the Valley of Zermatt Map. 

The way from Zermatt leads up the Trift Gorge, passes the Trift inn and 
Triftkummen (see p. 146), and ascends for a considerable distance by a path 
on the crest of a moraine on the left bank of the Trift Glacier. Then there 
is a little piece of glacier to be traversed, which is separated by a small 
bergschrund from the final bit leading to the pass. This is a mixture of 
snow and rock. 

The descent is at first by steep rocks, much broken up and not difficult. 
At the base of this cliff there is another smtdl bergschrund ; and, when this 
is left behind, a nearly straight course can be steered to the Mountet cabane, 
9475 feet, 2888 metres, at the southern foot of Berao. At this hut there is a 
guardian, from whom food can be purchased. 

h. min. 

Zermatt to summit of Triftjoch 4 45 

Summit of Triftjoch to Mountet .... 2 

Mountet to Zinal 3 10 

Total . 9 55 

Zinal to Mountet 4 15 

Mountet to summit of Triftjoch .... 3 
Summit of Triftjoch to Zermatt (moving briskly) . 2 45 

Total . . 10 
1 This name is not given on the Valley of Zermatt Map. The peak is marked 3744.. 

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CHAP. IX. A TRAGEDY ON THE TBIFT. 163 

In re falling stones.— Mr. T. W. Hinchcliff went over this pass in 1857, 
and said that, so far as he had been able to discover, it "had only been 
twice crossed in modem times." He dwelt in his account upon the risk from 
falling stones on the Zinal side, and since that time it has been well-known 
that they come down in such numbers and with such frequency as to be 
dangerous, — more particularly after the sun strikes the upper cliffs of the 
Trifthom. He had halted for lunch, some distance from the base of the 
cliffs, "when," he said, "a booming sound, like the discharge of a gun far 
over our heads, made us all at once glance upwards to the top of the Trift- 
hom. Close to its craggy summit hung a cloud of dust, like dirty smoke, and 
in a few seconds another afld a larger one burst forth several hundred feet 
lower. A glance through the telescope showed that a fall of rocks had com- 
menced, and the fragtnents were leaping down from ledge to ledge in a series 
of cascades. Each block dashed off others at every point of contact, and the 
uproar became tremendous ; thousands of fragments, making every variety of 
noise according to their size, and producing the effect of a fire of musketry. 
and artillery combined, thundered downwards from so great a height that we 
waited anxiously for some considerable time to see them reach the snow-field 
below. As nearly as we could estimate the distance, we were 500 yards from 
the base of the rocks, so we thought that, come what might, we were in a 
tolerably secure position. At last we saw many of the blocks plunge into the 
snow after taking their last fearful leap; presently much larger fragments 
followed, taking proportionably larger -bounds ; the noise grew fiercer and 
fiercer, and huge blocks began to fall so near to us that we jumped to our feet, 
preparing to dodge them to the best of our ability. * Look out ! ' cried some 
one, and we opened out right and left at the approach of a monster, evidently 
weighing many hundredweight, which was coming right at us like a huge shell 
fired from a mortar. It fell with a heavy thud not more than twenty feet 
from us, scattering lumps of snow into the circle where we had just been 
dining ; but scarcely had we begun to recover from our astonishment when a 
still larger rock flew exactly over our heads to a distance of 200 yards beyond 
us. . . Even Cachat" [Zacharie Cachat, of Chamonix] "looked somewhat be- 
wildered, and . . exclaimed ' Ah ! si ma femme pouvait savoir oh je suis k 
present!*" — PeakSf Passes arid OlacierSf 1st series. 

A Tragedy on the Trift. — Two English ladies. Miss Sampson and Miss 
Growse, left the Riffelalp Hotel at 2 a.m. on Aug. 30, 1895, with Louis 
Carrel (Val Toumanche) and Anton Biener (Zermatt), intending to cross the 
Triftjoch on the same day ! They went down to Zermatt, walked up to the 
Trift Hotel, and stopped to get provisions there. The people of the inn had 
not risen, delay occurred, and, m consequence, they arrived on the top of 
the Pass somewhere about 10 a.m. — later than was advisable. However, they 
descended the cliff on the Mountet side all right, and were about to cross 
the small bergschrund at its base, — Carrel leading, followed by Miss Growse, 
then Miss Sampson, with Biener behind her. Carrel was just at the berg- 
schrund, cutting steps. "AU at once," said he, "I heard a great noise, and 
saw stones coming down. Said I to myself, *We are all lost.' I shouted 
* cachez-vous ! ' " a thing which it was impossible for them to do. Louis crouched 
down against the upper lip of the bergschrund, and was only struck by some 
small fragments. Miss Growse was rather severely bruised by the blows she 
received, but was not seriously hurt. Miss Sampson was hit in the back, 
and so was Biener. A flask he carried was crushed. "How large was the 
stone which struck Miss Sampson, Louis?" "I am not sure," he said, "one 
couldn't see clearly, but I think about as large as this," — indicating a cube 
of about 16 inches. "What did you do then?" "She could not walk, and 
I took her on my back ; but more steps had to be cut, and we got along 
slowly." "You cut with one hand, and held her on with the other ?" "Yes. 
" Had she any strength?" "Yes, she hung on to me, with her hands over my 
shoulders." "Could she talk?" "Yes, but I couldn't understand what she 
said, for she spoke in English." "Go on with the story." "I carried her 



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164 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. ix. 

until we were out of reach of falling stones, and then laid her on the snow, 
on my coat and other things. She was then aUvo." *' How long was this after 
the accident?" "About an hour. Just then, the guardian of the Mountet 
hut came up, with two of his men. He had seen that there was something 
wrong, and nurried across the glacier to meet us. * She is dying,' he said to 
me. It was so. She turned pale, her eyes closed, and it was all over." 

Miss Sampson was buried at Zermatt on Sept. 2 (see p. 132). An unusual 
degree of sympathy was manifested by the Zormatters upon this occasion. 

The Momixig Pass, 12,444 feet, 3793 m^res, which goes between the 
Zinal Rothhom and the Schallhom (Schallihom^. is another way which may 
be taken from Zermatt to Zinal and the Val a Anniviers. Circuitous. Not 
recommended. See Scrambles amongst the Alps, chap. xii. 

Zinal, 5505 feet, 1678 m^res; Hotels — Hotel Durand (the 
oldest) ; HOTEL DiABLONS ; Hotel du Besso ; is growing in public 
estimation, and many persons wish to go there from Zermatt. The 
easiest, quickest, and most economical way is to take train from 
Zermatt to Sierre ; telegraph beforehand to have a char waiting at 
the Railway Station ; ride to Vissoye, 3980 feet, 1213 mHres, Hotel- 
Pension d'Anniviers ; and walk from Vissoye to Zinal. It can be 
done in 9 hs., at a cost of 28 fr?. 

Leave Zermatt 6.40 a.m. 

Arr. Sierre 10.13 „ 

do. Vissoye (in char) 1.10 p.m. 

do. Zinal (on foot) 3.40 „ 

Total . 9 hours. 

The cost is 11 frs. 50 cts. for the train from Zermatt to Sierre 
(3rd class), and 16 frs. 50 cts. for a char from Sierre to Vissoye, 
including bonnemain to driver. 

This brings us to the end of the Passes to the South and West 
of Zermatt. For others, situated to its East and South-east, it is 
more convenient to start from the Riffelalp Hotel. See Chap. x. 



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MONUMENT TO T. W. HINCHCLIFF. 

CHAPTER X. 

EXCURSIONS FROM THE RIFFELALP AND RIFFELBERG HOTELS. 

EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONTE ROSA — THE FIRST ASCENT OF 
MONTE ROSA — THE HOCHSTE SPITZE (DUFOURSPITZE) — CABANE 
BETEMPS — WINTER ASCENT OF MONTE ROSA — THE NORD END — THE 
LYSKAMM (SILBERBAST)— DEATH OF MR. CHESTER— LOSS OF MESSRS. 
LEWIS AND PATERSON — ANOTHER SNOW - CORNICE ACCIDENT — 
CASTOR AND POLLUX (ZWILLINGE, OR THE TWINS) — THE BREITHORN 
FROM THE NORTH — A TOUR ROUND THE BREITHORN— CIMA DI JAZZI 
— THE STRAHLHORN — PASSES — THE ADLERPASS — SCHWARZBERG 
WEISSTHOR — NEW WEISSTHOR — OLD WEISSTHOR — SESIAJOCH — 
LYSJOCH — FELIKJOCH — ZWILLINGSPASS — SCHWARZTHOR. 

In a certain sense, excursions from the Riffelalp Hotel (or from the 
liiffelhaus) are also excursions from Zermatt ; but most persons will 
find it to their comfort to use the Riffelalp Hotel as a starting-point 
for those which are mentioned in this chapter. There are, besides, 
a number of little excursions that can be made in the vicinity of 
the Hotel, which has the advantages of being free from external 
noises and nuisances, and of being surrounded by ground (partly 
open and partly tree -covered) over which the tourist can roam at 



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166 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. 



CHAP. X. 



pleasure. A path to the Findelen Valley starts at the back of the 
Hotel (by the side of which there is a monument erected to the late 
Mr. T. W. Hinchcliff), and various other erratic paths, leading no- 
where in particular, will be found in the same direction. It goes 
without saying that excursions to the Gomergrat or the Findelen 
Valley, and ascents of Gugel and the Riffelhom are made from the 
liiff'elalp Hotel (or from the Riffelhaus) with even greater facility 
than from Zcrraatt itself. 

The A Keen t of Monfce 
Hum, ir>,iil7 feet, 40S 
mfetre^, hus lieetinit? c^S- 
treuiely iio]>ularp Ah mi 
records are i^re^tirvtil, i| 
is iiii]»H4sib]e U> j^ay Imw 
niiiiiy iLwt^entrt are maile. 
They am ]irnK%hly iinuli 
num^ iiniiKin^us than 
thnse of Muiit niaiic. 
Tht> iirst Ascent uf \\\<i 
hit^^liesfc ] KM Tit WMH eflecttil 
by the Au^shs. Smyth in 
1855. See jiil^^i*^ h"), 17, 





1^5*^^.^ 



Lwvui 

















THE RIFFELALP HOTEL. 



Prior to their success several efforts had been made to get to the 
top vid. the Silbersattel, the dejjression between the Nord End and 
Monte Rosa proper (or Dufourspitze, as it is now termed by the 
Swiss). The height of this Col is 14,731 feet, and the difference of 
level between' it and the very highest point is only 486 feet, but 
this small distance proved too much for the eai-ly explorers. 

It is stated that Prof. Ulrich got to the Silbersattel in 1848 ; 
and again, with G. Studer, in 1849. In 1851, Hermann and Adolph 
Schlagiiitweit (who afterwards became known as Himalayan travellers) 
appear to have mounted to some height above the Silbersattel, and in 



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CHAP. X. ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONTE ROSA, 167 

1854, an Englishman, Mr. S. D. Bird,^ is said to have climbed within 
a hundred feet of the top, — which is, perhaps, doubtful. Shortly after- 
wards, Messrs. Smyth made the first ascent of the Stralilhom, and 
the majestic appearance of Monte Rosa when seen from that direction 
induced them to make the attempts which followed. Their first effort 
was in Aug. 1854, and the next upon the succeeding Sept. 1. By the 
courtesy of Canon Smyth I am able to give the following extracts 
from an account which was written shortly afterwards. 

Ascent of Montb Rosa. Friday, Sept. 1, 1864, 

"The following Ascent was made by three brothers — Captain Edmund Smyth, 
13th Bengal N.I. ; James Grenville Smyth, Vicar of N. & S. Elkington, Lin- 
colnshire ; Christopher Smyth, Rector of Woodford, Northampton. 

After an unsuccessful attempt to ascend this beautiful mountain, owing to 
cloudy weather,* we determined to make another trial, and accordingly, jrfter 
an early breakfast, started at 2 a.m. from the Hotel de Riff el, ourselves 
three in number, with four guides, one of whom carried a ladder, and a porter 
to carry part of the baggage for the first 3 or 4 hours. One of these guides 
was Ulricn Lauener of Lauterbrunnen,' a man whose value we had learnt by 
experience, having crossed with him some of the highest and most difficult 
passes in the Alps, — the rest were Zermatt guides. . . . 

Our path for the first 40 minutes lay along the West side of the Riffel, 
leaving the Riffelhorn on the right, — from this point is obtained the first view 
of the upper part of the Gromer Glacier. Here our path turned to the left, 
passing along the side of a steep slope, inclined at an angle occasionally of 
60*". Above us was the path leading to the Gomergrat, about 700 feet below 
us was the glacier. The path continued in the same direction, keeping along 
the side of, and gradually descending towards the glacier, which we reached 
in about 2f hours from the Hotel. . . We were longer about this part of our 
journey than we should otherwise have been, for it was still too dark to see 
clearly, and we had nothing but one tallow candle to help us. Fortunately, 
on arriving at the glacier, the twilight was sufficiently advanced for us. Here, 
as may be supposed, all traces of a path ceased. Our way now lay directly 
across the glacier towards the rocks at the foot of Monte Rosa, leaving what 
is o&lled in the maps the Gromer See on the left. This See or Lake no longer 
exists. It has been drained since last year bv new crevasses in the Glacier. 
The site of the Lake is marked by a lar^e hollow in the ice of some acres in 
extent. . . It takes an hour to cross this enormous glacier, which stretches 
from the Old Weiss Thor Pass to within about 2 miles of Zermatt, 

We arrived at the opposite side in about 3 hours from the Hotel, during 
which time we had advanced very little in actual height. Now, however, the 
ascent began in earnest, at first over the rocks, which was comparatively easy 
work. S^^n we had again to walk upon the glacier by the side of the rocks. 
Here it was more crevassed, and in consequence greater care was required. 
The danger in walking over glaciers consists not so much in what you can see 
as in what you cannot see. . . It is seldom the guides are deceived. A good 
guide will go on steadily until he comes to the treacherous places, which are 

1 I have been unable to learn anything about Mr. Bird,'and shall be glad of information. 

2 "The Riffelberg Hotel, a poor shanty then, had just been opened. Having pre- 
viously surveyed our ground, we started in the afternoon, and 8lei>t under the shght 
shelter of 8(nne rocks a few hundred feet above the Gomer Glacier, on the side of 
Monte Rosa, with sheep-skins to keep us warm. Beware of sheep-skins ! ! I i^member 
that night well enough, when we had hardly room to scratch ourselves, fitting into 
each other like spoons ! The next morning we made for the Sattel between the highest 
point and the Nord End, but finally a change in the weather, with a south wind 
drove us back to the friendly Riffel to wait for better times."— l/«tter fnym the Rev. 
Christopher Smyth. 

8 Two others were Johann and Matthias zum Taugwald.— ^. W, 



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168 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORNi CHAP. x. 

generally known by the increased whiteness of the snow. Here he digs in his 
b^ton, finds out the breadth of the crevasse, and if practicable leaps across; 
or, if not, walks along the side until he comes to a practicable place. Some- 
times he divides his weight by crawling on his hands and knees, while the rest 
cautiously follow in his footsteps. This was our manner of proceeding for 5 
hours, occasionally stopping to rest, or eat, or to admire the increasing beauty of 
the scenery, as we gradually rose to the level of all the surrounding mountains. 

On approaching the summit the crevasses became larger and more picturesi^ue, 
the huge masses of ice stood out in bold relief far above us, on one side. 
. . One of these crevasses stretched completely across our way, with no means 
of passing except by a narrow bridge of snow. Fortunately, this natural bridge 
was strong enough to bear our weight; we all crossed in safety, and in due 
time arrived at the ridge between the Northern and the Highest peaks. This 
spot I believe to be a]ix>ut 14,800 feet above the sea. Here we sat down on 
our waterproofs for about 20 minutes to rest ourselves, and to enjoy the view, 
before proceeding to the most difficult part of our expedition. 

The Highest Peak of Monte Rosa consists of a long ridge of rock partially 
covered with snow and ice. Very narrow at the top, and so steep as to be 
almost inaccessible, — indeed I should imagine it was wholly inaccessible to any 
but first-rate guides. We were fortunate enough in having as good a guide 
with us as any in Switzerland. We had brought up the ladder from below 
with a view of climbing this rock, but it was useless. Even our b&tons were 
of no use to us here. From this point to the top it was a scramble up steep 
rock covered with ice. 

On making a start we were each of us attached by a short rope to a guide, 
a most necessary precaution, as a single sli^ might (and probably would) have 
been fatal. The first part of this ascent being less steep was the easiest, and 
by treading in each other's footsteps we managed to get along pretty easily, 
but this did not last long. We soon came to the steeper rocks, and then 
every muscle in the body was brought into action. . . Here our guides left 
us for half an hour while they cut steps in the ice. 

This was the most disagreeable part of all. As long as we were in the 
sunshine or in exercise we felt pretty well, but now sitting, or rather half- 
reclining, in the shade, with nothing but a rock covered with ice to rest 
upon, to which I suppose may be added the rarefaction of the air, all these 
things combined brought on excessive faintness. The feeling was one of entire 
helplessness, as if the proper place for one were a comfortable bed, where one 
could lie down and go to sleep. . . Fortunately, this feeling did not last long. 
A little cognac soon restored us, and when the guides were ready for us, we 
were ready to continue our scramble. The remainder of the journey to the 
top was so steep and so slippery that we had to be helped up the whole 
distance, notwithstanding the steps cut in the ice. 

I might mention here that the guides are generally more careful of traveUers 
than travellers are of themselves, their fault (if fault it can be called) is oiw- 
caution, they idll help you when you feel you don't want help. . . On the 
present occasion there was good reason for the greatest caution ; for, although 
we were all three of us accustomed to climbing, yet the scrambling up a 
precipice over blocks of stone covered with ice was quite a new thing. The 
throe ropes by which we had been before attached to three of our guides were 
now fastened together, and one by one we were helped up the rocks by a guide 
who sat above us, in this way we proceeded the rest of the distance to the 
summit. 

I said the highest peak of Monte Rosa consisted of a long narrow ridge. 
Upon this ridge there are three small peaks of nearly equal height, — the middle 
one of the three being a few feet higher than the others. The point at which 
we were now arrived was the most Eastern, had time and weather allowed 
us, we should have liked to have proceeded to the other two points, but as 
it was now 12 o'clock, and the clouds were beginning to gather all round us, 
we thought it inadvisable to venture, especially as the road appeared to be 



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170 ZERMATT AND THE MATTEEROEN, chap. x. 

more dangerous than anything we had vet encountered, owing to the narrow- 
ness of the ridge and the quantity of black ice upon the rocks. We stayed 
at the summit about half an hour during which time our guides amused 
themselves by building a cairn and planting our flag.^ 

We now began to tbSxSk of returning. Again the ropes were brought into 
requisition, and we. were "one by one let down a short distance at a time, 
until we were bevon4 tl^ most dangerous parts. We then clambered down 
as best wo could, i^i^ we arrived at the foot of the peak in safety. It 
took us an hour and a luilf to reach the summit from this point, and nearly 
.the same time ta i^turn, ^lt|^ough.^he distance w^ really so small. 

The descent from here was <3omparatively easy. We went over the snow very 
rapidly, performing in two hours what had taken five in ascending. The same 
care, however, was required in crossing the crevasses, — but with this exception 
the descent was easy. In two hours we reached the rocks at the foot of the 
mountain. We now crossed the Gorner Glacier,^ and in an hour reached the path 
we had used in the morning. We arrived at^ the Hotel de Riff el at J past 7, 
having been 17 hours on the expedition." '/ 

It is obvious from this relation thkt Messrs. Smyth were aware 
that they had not reached the very hi^i^st point, as it is mentioned 
explicitly that there were three peaks of nearly equal height, the 
middle one being a few feet higher than the others, and that they 
went upon the most Eastern one. 

In July, 1855, Messrs. Christopher and Grenville Smyth were again 
at Zermatt, and amongst other things ascended the Breithom and 
Petit Mont Cervin, with some friends. 

''Two days after this, as some of the party wished to ascend Monte Rosa, 
and as Chris, and I o4il^ looked upon the expedition as rather a long day's 
walk, we determined ^id Join them. Accordingly we were called at 11 p.m. ! ! 
On Tuesdav, July 3f, breakfasted about J to 12, and started (5 of us with 4 
guides) at J past 12. 'Hi^rmoon was about full and the night most beautiful. 
We went over nearly the same ground as last year, until wo arrived about two 
hours from the top. Here the glacier by which we formerly ascended was so 
broken tbat we were obliged to turn to the right and began to ascend the 
highest peak frdm the West instead of from the East. The snow was very 
steep and in n^any places had become ice, so that more than a hundred steps 
had to be cut. . . Whilst steps were being made, after about an hour's halt, 
we started again, — the wind was still very cold, though not violent, and the 
sun had some little power. There were now two steep ridges of snow to mount, 
almost every step of which had to be cut, after which there was about half 
£^n hour's climbing up and down steep rocks, and then we stood the first 
human beings upon the very highest point of the highest peak of this glorious 
mountain. . . We descended in safety, and much more quickly than we went 
up, sliding and running down the snow which had taken so long a time in 
Ascending, and arrived at the Hotel not very late in the afternoon. "2 

From this account it appears that the adoption of the new way 
was partly accidental rather than intentional, and this arose from 

1 '• Having no flag, my brother, Ool. Smji^h, sacrificed his alpenstock and one of two 
shirts he was wearing. Apropos of this banner. An Englishman ascending shortly 
afterwards by the same route cut from the shirt the portion on which my brother's 
name was marked, and one day at a dinner-table was relating the story of hiB climb, 
and of the trophy he had brought down with him, and had then in his possession. 
My brother overheard the conversation, and asked him to produce it, which he did at 
once."— Letter from the Rev. Christopher' Smyth. 

2 Extract from a letter from Oanon Smyth, dated Aug. 9, 1856. Ulrich Lauener was 
again the leading guide. 



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CHAP. X. 



THE FIRST ASCENT OF MONTE ROSA. 



171 



the glacier by which they had formerly ascended being so broken 
that they ** were obliged to turn to the right " and so began to 
ascend the highest peak from the West. The Rev. Christopher 
Smyth, however, informs me that they were determined to try the 
new way from doubting the practicability of the old one, and that 
when they made off for the ridge the guides lagged behind and 
moved on slowly towards the Sattel. ** Nor did they rejoin us till 
they saw us begin the ascent of the dome -shaped slope of ice and 
snow which leads to the final rocks. Perceiving that we were pre- 
pared to go on without them, and that our success without them 
might be prejudicial to their prestige as guides, they once more took 
the lead ; but were not very useful, nor do I think much credit was 
due to them.^ We did not rope, nor was the helping hand needed. 
I think Ulrich Lauener cut a few steps. He was head of the party, 
and reached the top first." 

The route taken by Messrs. Birkbeck, Hudson, Stevenson and 
Smyth on Aug. 1, 1855,^ is the route which is followed still, so far 
as the upper part of the mountain is concerned. It goes along the 
ridge which leads due W. from the highest point. See Map of the 
Valley of Zertnatt. But at the commencement it differs from the 
way they took. It now leads over the rocks called Untere Plattje. 
See Illustration on 
p. 169, and the View 
from the Gomergrat 
at the end of the 
volume. The cabane 
Bdtemps, built upon 
the western side of 
these rocks, is now 
commonly used as a 
starting-point. This 
little place (com- 
pleted in 1894) cost 
nearly £600 to erect, 
towards which the 
Swiss Alpine Club 
contributed 1 1 , 792 
francs ! It has a 
guardian, from 

whom food can be obtained. The authorized tarif for provisions, etc. , 
should be posted up in the cabane and in the Hotels of Zermatt. 

The highest point of Monte Rosa (or Monte Rosa proper) has also been 
ascended from the South {Alpine Journal, vol. vii, p. 107) ; and by its S.E. 
ridge [A, J, vol. viii, p. 339). "Our route is recommended to future climbers, 
who do not mind rotten rocks, plenty of falling stones, and but little good 
handhold or footing during three and a half hours." It has been ascended, 

1 The Rev. E. W. Stevenson writes much to the same effect. '* On arrival at the 
summit," he says, "the guide who had been cutting the steps" (Lauener) "was with 
us ; one came up some time afterwards, and one never came up at all." 
s Not July 31, as is frequently stated. 




THE CABANE BETEMPS. 



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172 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. x. 

too, from Macugnaga, by the B. face. Although this latter is a very fine 
excursion, those who undertake it should not conceal from themselves that 
it is a hazardous one {A. J. vol. vi, pp. 91, 232-44). 

The highest point and the Nord End in one day.— On Aug. 10, 1877, 
Messrs. W. Penhall and G. Seriven, with Ferdinand Imseng and P. J. 
Truffer, combined the ascent of the Nord End and the highest point. They 
followed the usual Monte Rosa route to a little above Auf'm Felsen, and 
bearing away to the left took to the rocks of the Nord End. Descending to 
the Silbersattel, they remounted to the highest point. 

A Winter ascent of Monte Bosa. — Signer Vittorio Sella camped under 
canvas on the moraine of the Grenz Glacier on Jan. 25, 1884, with «Joseph and 
Daniel Maquignaz (Val Toumanche). Starting next morning at 4 a.m., they 
gained the summit at 1.30 p.m. Up to the height of 3700 metres (12,139 
feet), the snow was soft and powdery. Higher up it was harder. The camp 
was regained at 5.30 p.m. On the third day they reached Zermatt vid the 
Gromergrat and Riffel. Temperature on the summit was - 16^ C, and the 
minimum observed during the expedition was -17° C. 

Accidents. — A fatal accident of a vulgar type occurred upon Monte Bosa 
on July 27, 1865. Two Englishmen, with three guides and two porters, started 
to make the ascent soon after the fall of a large amount of snow ; and when 
near the Saddle (close to the top) started an avalanche, and were all more 
or less buried in it, except two of the guides. One porter . was smothered. 
On Aug. 8, 1881, Sig. Marinelli, with Ferdinand Imseng and B. Pedranzini, 
attempted to ascend Monte Rosa by its E. face, and, getting in the track of 
an avalanche, were all killed. Avalanches of sorts fall frequently on that side. 

The Nord End, 15,132 feet, 4612 metres, the second highest peak of Monte 
Rosa, was ascended in 1861 (date not recorded) by Mr. Edward North Buxton, 
Sir T. Fowell Buxton (now Governor of South Australia) and Mr. J. J. Cowell, 
with Michel Payot and other guides. See Pectht Passes and Olouiiers, 2nd 
series, vol. ii, pp. 412-22. 

The positions and elevations of the lower peaks of Monte Rosa (Jagerhom, 
Balmenhorn, Ludwigshohe, Parrotspitze, Signalkuppe, and Zumsteinspitze) are 
given in Appendix E. 

The Lyskamm (Silberbasty 14,889 feet, 4538 metres, is exceeded 
in elevation by mountains in the Zermatt district only by Monte 
Rosa and the Dom. It forms the most prominent object seen from 
the Gomergrat, and looks its best from 9.30 to 11 a.m. The first 
ascent was made on Aug. 19, 1861, by the party whose names are 
given on p. 18, led by Peter Perren (Perm).^ The course was for 
the greater part of the way the same as that which leads to the 
Lysjoch (up the Grenz Glacier, formerly called the Monte Rosa 
Glacier), but, before reaching the Col, turned off to the right, up 
*a rather stiffish snow-slope,' to the ridge leading E.S.E. from the 
summit. When the crest of this was reached, they doubled back 
{i.e. turned to the right), and followed the crest or arite of the ridge 
to the top. Perren went up *'in magnificent style, kicking and 
cutting steps with a skill and rapidity which I have seldom seen 

1 "The old name 'Silberbast' for the Lyskamm has almost been forgotten. . . Yet 
the word 'Bast' must be familiar to many visitors to Zermatt, for it is applied in the 
local dialect to the wooden saddles of the pack-mules. It does not require a great deal 
of imagination to suppose that the name 'Silberbast' was given to the Lyskamm be- 
cause, seen from the Gomergrat, it has the appearance of a huge snowy pack-saddle, 
and the name is therefore very appropriate."— ^Tcrr A. Lorria. 

2 Not the Peter Perm mentioned on p. 151. 



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CH. X. DEATH OF MR, CHESTER ON THE LYSKAMM. 173 

equalled, stopping only now and then to shout down to us a hoarse 
query as to the state of the snow above him, lest he should unwarily 
tread upon an overhanging cornice." — Peaks, Passes and Glaciers, 
2nd series, vol. i, pp. 389-90. 17 hs. 20 min. were occupied from the 
RifFel to the top and back. The Lyskamm has been ascended from 
several other directions, but the route generally taken from the RifFel- 
alp Hotel is substantially that which was first adopted. Though the 
ordinary way up the Lyskamm cannot be accounted difficult, it affords 
various possibilities, some of which will be illustrated presently. 

Winter Ascents. — Signor Vittorio Sella, the accomplished photographer, 
reached the top from the Italian side on Mar. 22, 1885, and this was again 
done by two other Italians on Mar. 4, 1889. 

Co-operation.— In 1866, Messrs. F. Morshead and H. Walker, with Melchior 
and Jakob Anderegg, and Mr. J. H. Kitson with Christian Aimer, left the 
Riffel together for the Lyskamm. Separating on the Grorner Glacier, the 
former gentlemen ascended by the Zwillinge Glacier and the Western arSte, 
arriving at the summit at 10.15 ; and Mr. Kitson ascended by the Eastern arite, 
arriving at 9.35. Thus the two parties were together on the top, and descending 
each by the ar^ by which the other had ascended, they met on the Gomer 
Glacier again. — Alpine Joumal, vol. ii, p. 414. 

A Tour of the Lyskamm and its Ascent combined. — In July, 1867, 
Messrs. C. E. Mathews and F. Morshead, with Christian Aimer, left the Riffel 
at midnight ; ascended to the top of the Felikjoch by a few minutes past 5 ; 
bore round to the left on to the western part of the Lys Glacier, and made 
for the rocks running South from the Lyskamm. These were ascended. At 
10.15 a.m. they were on the summit ; then descended to the Lysjoch, and got 
back to the Riffel at 6 p.m. 

Death of Mr. Henry Chester (1869).— At 4 a.m. on Sept. 15, 1869, Mr. 
Chester (a London solicitor) left the Riffel with two guides, to ascend the 
Lyskamm. A little before 10 on the evening of the same day the guides 
returned with the news that he was dead. They stated that they had reached 
the summit at 2.45 p.m., and had almost immediately commenced the descent. 
"Mr. Chester, being very tired, had stumbled several times, but he had 
got to the end of the narrow part of the arite without an actual fall. At 
this point he insisted upon going" to look for traces of a dog which he had 
taken with him, and which had disappeared during the ascent. In going, he 
fell forwards on his face ; the guides were not aJert at the moment, and were 
dragged off their feet by his fall. "The whole three had immediately bounded 
over an ice-cliff, and at last, after slipping down a slope estimated by the 
guides as being some eight hundred to a thousand feet in height, had lodged 
on the Grenz Glacier beneath." This was the account given by the two guides. 

At 3 a.m. on the following morning four Englishmen, Mr. W. E. Hall 
(barrister), Mr. (now the Right Hon. Lord Justice) Rigby, Mr. Porter (now 
Master of St. Peter's Coll., Cambridge), and Mr. Fowler, started with ten 
men for the scene of the accident, and found Mr. Chester dead, with his 
neck broken. The tracks on the snow, and other circumstances, led to the 
belief that the story of the guides was, at least in part, an invention. An 
official investigation of the usual character was subsequently held at Zermatt. 
As the result of this was not made known, Mr. Hall communicated a paper 
to the Al{>ine Club upon the subject, in which he said, "M. Clemenz" (who 
held the investigation) "promised to me — and when Mr. Chester's brother 
arrived at Zermatt to him also — that his decision and the grounds of it should 
be fully communicated to us. For a long time expectation that M. Clemenz 
would fulfil his promise naturally and necessarily closed our mouths. But 
when more than six months have gone by, and when a date, fixed after 
several letters as that in which the decision should arrive in England has 
been passed by nearly eight weeks, it becomes necessary, if any good effect 



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174 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHOEN, chap. x. 

is to be produced during the coming summer by the publication of the truth, 
that the. dilatory courtesy of M. Clomenz should no longer be waited for. . . 
I am content that my action should be sufficiently justified by the fact that 
like promises were made after the accident on the Matterhom, and that they 
were never fulfilled."^ Mr. Hall concluded by saying that, whatever might 
be the motive for M. Olemenz's silence, the effect of it was unfortunate on 
the Guides of Zermatt, and, in that opinion, I entirely concur. 

The death of Mr. Chester remains a mystery. There was a dog 
with the party, but it is by no means certain that Mr. Chester 
went to look after it, or that it had anything to do with his death. 

Three Guides and two Tourists perish by breaking through a snow- 
cornice (1877).— "On Sept. 6, 1877, Messrs. William Arnold Lewis and Noel 
H. Paterson, with Niklaus, Johann and Peter Joseph Ejiubel " (of St. Nicholas) 
"left the Riffelhaus at 2 a.m., to make the aseent of the Lyskamm. As they 
did not return that night, Mr. J. A. Carfrae, accompanied by Peter Knubel, 
Joseph Imboden and J. J. Truffer" (of St, Nicholas) "started the following 
morning at 6.30 in search. They followed the tracks of Mr. Lewis's party to 
the foot of the arSte leading down from the summit of the mountain towards the 
Lysjoch, and there found two knapsacks which had been left by them at this 
spot on the preceding day, before they began the final climb. This circum- 
stance caiised them at once to fear that a^ accident had occurred, and after 
skirting the lower slopes on the Italian side for nearly an hour, they reached 
a point from which they saw the whole of the party lying upon the snow at 
some distance beneath them. Being unable to reach the bodies from this 
point, they retraced their steps, and after making a slight detour arrived at 
the spot. The cause of the accident was at once apparent: a snow-cornice 
on the ar^e about 500 feet below the summit of the mountain had given 
way under the weight of the party, and they had fallen some 1200 feet on 
to the glacier beneath. The whole of the party had received such injuries 
that death must have been instantaneous in every case. Portions of the broken 
cornice were lying round the bodies, and the line of their fall could be traced 
by two axes belonging to members of the party, one of which was found upon 
the ice slope some 30O feet above, and the other upon rocks still higher up. 
, . Messrs. Lewis and Paterson were buried in the English Churchyard at Zer- 
matt, on the afternoon of the 10th." (See p. 132.) 

"The cornice had broken away in two places, leaving some 10 feet in the 
middle still adhering to the mountain. The ler^h of the parts which broke 
away was, perhaps, 40 feet on each side of the remaining portion. The distance 
of the fall was estimated at from 1200 to 1500 feet. The bodies, from the nature 
of the injuries they had received, had evidently fallen upon their heads on the 
rocks, and then, in one great bound, had reached almost the spot where they 
were found." — Alpine Journal, vol. viii, pp. 346-7. 

The Editor of the Alpine Journal remarked that " at Zermatt it 
may be believed no warning" (in respect to snow-cornices) "will be 
wanted for many years," History, however, repeats itself. 

Two Guides and a tourist perish by breaking through a snow-cornice 

(1896). — On Sept. 6, 1896, Dr. Max Giinther left the B^temps cdbane at 4 a.m., 
with Roman Imboden (St. Nicholas) and Peter Joseph Ruppen (Balen, Saas 
Thai), for an ascent of the Lyskamm. They were accompanied as far as the 
Lysjoch by another German with his guide. The two latter went towards the 
Ludwigshohe to watch the ascent of the others, who left the Lysjoch soon after 
9 a.m. At 10.30 the roar of an avalanche was heard, and a cloud of snow was 
seen blowing from the ridge of the Lyskamm. Upon proceeding to a point 
where the Italian side of the mountain could be inspected, the bodies of Dr. 
Giinther and his guide could be seen lying on the snow at the base of a pre- 

1 See note to p. 70. 



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CHAP. X. THE CIMA DI JAZZL 175 

cipice about 1500 feet in height. They had broken through a snow-cornice, 
and the hole made in it was clearly visible from heXovr,— Alpine Journal, vol. 
xviii, p. 269. 

Castor and PoUnx (Zwillinge or the Twins) are overshadowed by 
the Lyskamm and Breithom. They can both be bagged in one day 
from the Zwillingspass. Castor, 13,878 feet, 4230 metres, was ascended 
by Messrs. W. Mathews and F. W. Jacomb with Michel -Augnste 
Croz and J. B. Croz, on Aug. 23, 1861, in 1 h. from the Zwillings- 
pass ; and Pollux, 13,422 feet, 4094 metres, is said to have been first 
ascended by Mons. Jules Jaco^ in 1864, from the Schwarzthor. 

The Breithom from the North.— On the 15th Sept. 1869, Mr. R. 
Fowler, with Peter Knubel and G. Ruppen, went up the Breithom 
from the North, — going vid the slopes called Triftje, and then ascend- 
ing partly by the Breithom Glacier and a small glacier above which 
feeds it, finally struck the summit -ridge to the E. of the summit. 
Descent was effected by the ordinary route. From the Rifielhaus to 
the top and back occupied 12^ hours. 

The Breithom is sometimes ascended from the Rifielhaus or Riffel- 
aJp Hotel by crossing the Gromer Glacier, and taking up the ordinary 
route at Gandeck ; but it is best (for the reason already given) to 
sleep at and to start from the inn on the top of the Theodule. 

A Tour round the Breithom.— On July 21, 1866, Mr. S. Winkworth with 
J. B. Croz and Peter Perren made a tour round the Breithom from the 
Riffelhaus to Zermatt. After crossing the Gomer Glacier, they ascended the 
Schwarze Glacier, and went over the Schwarzthor ; then turned to the right, 
still ascending, to cross a snow-ridge running southwards from the Breithom. 
They then passed along the southern face of the mountain nearly on a level, 
though ascending somewhat to a second ridge, which was the highest point 
reached, — ^rhaps 400 feet higher than the Schwarzthor. Descending from 
this, they joined the ordinary route for the Breithom vid the Theodule, and 
returned by the Theodule to Zermatt. Twelve hours were occupied, exclud- 
ing halts. 

The walk to the Cima di Jazzi, 12,526 feet, 3818 metres, is one 
of the most popular excursions made from the Riffelhaus or the 
Riffelalp Hotel. For most of the way it is the same as the route 
for the New Weissthor. Several variations on the route may be made. 

1. By the (rough) path from the Riffelalp Hotel which passes to the W. 
of the Riff el horn, and descends on the Gromer Glacier. This gives a good 
deal of glacier. 2. By the (rough) path which descends directly upon the 
Gromer Glacier on the K of the Riffelhom. 3. By the path which passes 
between the Riffelhorn and Gromergrat and skirts the base of the latter. This 
is the most usual way, and it is marked on the Map of the Valley of Zermatt. 
4. By a path descending to the Gomer Glacier from the top of the Gromei^rat. 

Beivfeen Stockknuhel and the Cirna there are many concealed crevasses, and rope 
should always be employed. Early in the season there are concealed crevasses 
lower down the glacier than Stockknuhel. The slopes of the Cima are gentle 
upon the westem side, but on the Italian side they descend precipitously. 
** Travellers are strongly cautioned against approaching too close to the verge, 
as the cap of frozen snow that covers the summit usually forms a cornice 

Projecting several feet- from the rock, and is liable, every now and then, to 
reak away and fall some thousands of feet down towards the Macugnaga 
Glacier." — Mr, John Ball, The view on the Italian side is very extensive. 
To have the best chance of seeing it, ftnd for general comfort, start early. 



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176 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. x. 

The Strahlhom, 13,750 feet, 4191 metres, was ascended in August, 1854 
(date not recorded), by Capt. E. Smyth, the Rev. J. G. Smyth, and the Rev. 
C. Smyth, with * the landlord of the Hotel at Saas ' (presumably Franz Ander- 
matten), from the Adlerpass. The ascent ordinarily presents no difficulties on 
the Saas side, and on that of Zermatt the only pomt which requires labour is 
the rather steep bank of snow just before arriving at the summit of the pass. 

There are nine Passes leading to the E., S.E. and S. out of the 
basin of the Gomer Glacier, for which the Riffelalp Hotel is a 
natural starting-point. Though interesting as glacier-excursions, they 
are, however, of little utility as passes. For tarif see Appendix D. 

The Adlerpass, 12,461 feet, 3798 metres, leading between the Strahlhom 
and Rymfischhom to the Valley of Saas, is reputed to be an old pass. Track 
is marked on the Map of the Valley of Zermatt. The Schwanberg Weiss- 
thor, 11,811 feet, 3600 metres, leading between the Strahlhom and the Cima 
di Roflfel (Rofel) is perhaps the easiest way of getting into the Valley of Saas 
out of the basin of the Gromer Glacier. There are two ways to it (both marked 
on the Map), one by the Findelen Glacier, and the other round the southern 
side of the Gomergrat, for most of the way identical with the routes to the 
Cima di Jazzi and the New Weissthor. This latter way is the easier of the two. 

The New Weissthor, 11,811 feet, 3600 mHres, between the Cima di Roflfel 
(Rofel) and the Cima di Jazzi, leading to the Val Anzasoa, is one of the most 
practical of the oasses going out of the basin of the Gomer Glacier, and is 
frequently crossed during the season. The route is the same as for the Cima 
di Jazzi so far as the foot of the Cima. It then bears away to the left, and 
arrives at the summit of the pass by going over what appears to be an 
innocent snow-field. There are concealed crevasses close up to the edge of 
the cliff overlooking the Italian side, and the rope should on no account be 
cast off before the rocks are reached. For track see Map of the Valley of 
Zermatt. The precipice above the Val Anzasca is startlingly abrupt. The 
rocks are good, but very steep. At the foot of the steepest part there is the 
cabane Eugenic Sella. Below it, for a good part of the way, the route leads 
down ordinary slopes. Grand view of the Macugnaga Glacier and of Monte 
Rosa towering above, on arriving at the head of the Val Anzasca. After this, 
it is still 5 kils. to Macugnaga. Hotels.— Hotel Montb Moro ; Hotel Monte 
Rosa. In crossing from the side of Zermatt, reckon 6 to 6^ hs. from the 
Riffelhaus (halts included) to the top of the pass; 1 h. 35 min. from the 
top to the cabane Eugenie SeUa ; and 2J to 2^ hs. thence to Macugnaga. 

In a recently-published work, the author mentions the Weissthor as one of 
the passes over which he had 'strolled.' It may be said roundly that no one 
has ever strolled across the New Weissthor. If the writer crossed the pass 
alone (as he leads one to believe) he did a foolish thing. Untrue statements 
relating to the Weissthor do no harm to those who are acquainted with the 
pass; but they are likely to be mischievous with those who are notf and 
especially with persons who, for the sake of economy, desire to dispense with 
the services of Guides. The best of the Val Anzasca guides prefer descending to 
Stalden and going over the Monte Moro Pass to crossing the New Weissthor aSme, 

On July 28, 1894, a German (G. A. Meyer), "despite all remonstrances, 
persisted in going quite alone" (from the E. Sella hut towards Zermatt). "He 
followed a guided party for some distance, and when thev were on the pass 
was seen by them on a ridge below, , , He was missed ana searched for. His 
body was found four days later on the glacier, at the foot of a rock pre- 
cipice." — A, J.J vol. xvii, p. 268. This occurred on the Italian side, where a 
decent mountameer map go alone, without imprudence. 

The Old Weissthor, 11,733 feet, 3576 mbtres, between the Cima di Jazzi 
and the Fillarhom, also leads into the Val Anzasca. There are several varia- 
tions. Not recommended. 



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CHAP. X. PASSES INTO ITALY. 177 

The Sesiajoch, 14,472 foot, 4411 mHres, between the Parrotspitze and 
Signalkuppe, was traversed by Messrs H. B. George and A. W. Moore with 
Christian Aimer and Matthias zum Taugwald on July 11, 1862, from chalets 
2i hs. above Alagna to the Riffel, in 18 hours. This pass is seldom used. 
Perhaps, with the facilities afforded by the B^temps co^ne, it may become 
more fashionable. See Map of the Valley of Zermatt. 

The route for the Lyfljoch, about 14,000 feet, leading to the valley of 
Gressoney, between Ludwigshohe and the Lyskamm is for the greater part of 
the way on the Northern side the same as for the Lyskamm or the Sesiajoch. 
See View from the Gomergrat at the end of the volume, and Map of the 
Valley of Zermatt. The cahane B^temps can be used as a starting-point. 
"The first expeditions to the Lysjoch on record date back so long ago as 
1778-80."—^. J., vol. V, p. 136. 

In 1894, a dramatic incident occurred on < the Zermatt side of the Lysjoch, 
Her Majesty the Queen of Italy was crossing the pass on Aug. 25, with a 
caravan of 30 persons, led by Alessandro Welf of Gressoney, under the general 
direction of Baron Louis Peccoz. The summit was crossed, and for the first 
hour and a half Her Majesty and two ladies were dragged down in sledges. 
When this manner of progression could no longer be contmued, Welf took the 
lead, followed by the Baron and the Queen. Presently they approached some 
crevasses, and the Baron called] out loudly "Crevasses! Take care of the 
Queen ! " A few seconds afterwards, Welf felt a pull on the rope, and, turn- 
ing, saw the Baron falling on the snow. The others gathered around, but 
they could do nothing. Baron Peccoz gave one or two gasps, and expired. 
The spot where this occurred is marked with a cross on the View from the 
Gomergrat. The body was brought down to Zermatt on the evening of the 
28th ; the next day was conveyed by special train to Visp, and thence back 
to Italy over the Simplon. It is stated that physicians had recommended the 
Baron not to undertake long expeditions on account of his heart. 

The F^lil^och, 13,347 feet, 4068 mHres, between the Lyskamm and Castor 
leads either to Fiery (Val d'Ayas) or to Gressoney (V. of Gressoney). It was 
first crossed on Aug. 23, 1861, by Messrs. W. Mathews and F. W. Jacomb, 
with Michel-Auguste Croz and J. B. Croz, who took 14 hs. 40 min. from a 
ch&let 2ihs. above Gressoney to the Riffel (including the ascent of Castor en 
route). They called this pass the Col des Jumeaux, but this name is now 
superseded. The €aba7ie B^temps can be used as a starting-point for the 
Felikjoch. See View from the Gromergrat, and Map of the Valley of Zermatt. 

The Zwillingspass, 12,668 feet, 3861 mHres, between Castor and Pollux, 
leads to the Val a'Ayas. Mr. Winkworth, who made the first passage on July 
31, 1863, took 6J hs. from the Riffel to the Col, and proposed the name Col 
de Verra for the pass, as it led on the Italian side to the Combe di Verra. 
The name has not been adopted. 

The Schwarzthor, 12,274 feet, 3741 mHres, between Pollux and the Breit- 
hom, leading to the Val d'Ayas, was first crossed by Mr. John Ball in 1845. 
From the Riffelhaus to the summit reckon 6 hs. The Breithom was ascended 
from the Schwarzthor on Aug. 16, 1884, by Mr. J. S. Anderson with Ulrich 
Aimer and Aloys Pollinger, who arrived on the top at 6.45 p.m. ! having 
taken 16} hs. from the Riffelhaus ! 



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,fl-*r*^^ 



THE LAC NOIR HOTEL. 



CHAPTER XL 

EXCURSIONS FROM THE LAC NOIR HOTEL. 

THE LAC NOIR— THE FURGG GLACIER — THE THEODULE PASS — THE 
BREUILJOCH — THE FURGG GRAT — THE FURGG JOCH — ROUTES UP 
THE MATTERHORN — THE NORTHERN OR ZERMATT ROUTE — THE 
SOUTHERN OR BREUIL ROUTE — THE ZMUTT ROUTE — DEATHS OF 
BAUMANN, IMSENG, MUMMERY, PENHALL, PETRUS, ETC. 

The Lac Noir Hotel takes its name from a small piece of water 
which is drying up. The only sport to be had in it is fishing for 
water-beetles. The "Matterhorn Hot«l" would not be an inappro- 
priate title for this establishment, since it is to all intents and 
purposes the Hotel for the Matterhom. It is the nearest one to the 
summit, and it is the natural base for supplies. Even those who 
make the Ascent of the Matterhom by the southern route often 
start from the Lac Noir Hotel, and get to the Col de Lion by 
crossing the Breuiljoch. 

Simultaneously with the partial drying up of the Lac Noir a new 
lakelet has been formed on the southern side of the Homli, which 
may, in course of time, grow to large dimensions ; and it seems 
probable that the Lac Noir, formerly, was at least partly maintained 
by drainage from the Furgg Glacier, which drainage has latterly been 
diverted in consequence of the shrinkage of the glacier. The new 
lake is against the lateral moraine on the left bank of the Furgg 
Glacier. A short distance away to the south, the shrinkage of the 
glacier has caused the exposure of a cliff in the middle of the ice, 
which formerly was completely covered up by it. The surface of the 
glacier at this part was always much riven (indicating that it was 
passing over a rugged bed), but it is now seen that it actually passed 



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CHAP. XI. THE BREUILJOCH AND FURGG JOCH, 179 

over a perpendicular cliff, and yet maintained its continuity. These 
two features, — the formation of an entirely new lake, and the demon- 
stration that glaciers can maintain their continuity when passing over 
perpendicular cliffs — have particular interest for those who are con- 
cerned in the study of glaciers. 

By sleeping at the Lac Noir Hotel, the time occupied on the 
passage of the Theodule Pass can be abbreviated. Gandeck (see pp. 
153, 158) may be reached in 2^ hs. by crossing the lower part of 
the Furgg Glacier. This route meets the ordinary one from Zermatt 
when about half the distance to Gandeck has been accomplished, and 
thenceforward the two ways are identical. See Map of Matterhom 
and its Glaciers. Returning from Gandeck to the Lac Noir Hotel 
takes 75 to 80 minutes. 

Breuil can be reached from the Lac Noir Hotel more quickly by 
the Breniljoch (about 10,900 feet) than by the Theodule. To get to 
the Breuiljoch, follow the regular path to the Homli (pp. 139, 145) ; 
go along the lateral moraine on the left bank of the Furgg Glacier 
so long as there is a path, and then take to the ice, and make for 
the left hand (or eastern) side of the first small peak on the Furgg 
Grat that is to the E. of the Matterhom. This little peak has no 
name. It is marked 3357 metres on the Siegfried Map. The last bit 
before arriving at the Col is a slope, half -rock and half -snow. On 
the Italian side there is first a small bank of snow to descend, fol- 
lowed by a little bit of glacier and a good deal of moraine. This is 
succeeded by ordinary grass-slopes, over which one can go anywhere. 
By bearing a little round to the left, the Theodule path can be struck 
about 35 min. above Breuil ; or an independent track may be made. 
See Map of Matterhom and its Glaciers. 

The Furgg Grat is the name given to the ridge connecting the 
eastern base of the Matterhom with the Theodule. A short day can 
be pleasantly occupied by going from the Lac Noir Hotel to the 
Theodide, then following the arUe of this ridge to the Breuiljoch, and 
returning vid the Furgg Glacier. This excuision was first brought into 
notice by Mr. J. C. Leman, who took between 3 and 4 hours in pass- 
ing from one end of the ridge to the other. It is best to go from E. 
to W., thus having the Matterhom in view during the whole time. 

The Furgg Joch is upon the W. side of the little peak 3357, at 
the extreme western end of the Furgg Grat. It was first crossed on 
July 10, 1863, by Mr. F. Morshead with P. Perm (Perren) and 
Moritz Andenmatten, from Zermatt to Breuil, and the name Matter- 
joch was proposed for it ; but, as this was one of the names already 
applied to the Theodule, another title had to be found, and it was 
christened Furgg Joch on the Siegfried Map. The name Breuiljoch 
was also given ofi&cially. The Furgg Joch is sometimes impassable. 
In 1865 I wanted to cross it from S. to N., and found that it was 
not possible to descend the northern side. During the two years 
which had elapsed since the first passage, the Furgg Glacier had 
shrunk so much that it was completely severed from the summit of 
the pass. 



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180 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. xi. 

There is at the present time a curious confusion among the guides of the 
Zermatt district as to these two passes (Breuiljoch and Furgg Joch). The 
Furgg Joch alone is on the Tarif, and guides when engaged for the Furgg 
Joch conduct the tourist over the Breuiljoch ! In Conway's ZermcuU Pocket 
Book (p. 68), published in 1881, it is stated (correctly) that the Furgg Joch 



is on the W. and the Breuilioch is on the B. of the peak 3357. In Conway's 
Central Pennine Aim (p. 151), published in 1890, it is stated (incorrectly) that 
the pass on the W, of the peak 3357 "used to be called the Breuiljoch !" 

These and other excursions can be made from the Lac Noir Hotel, 
but its great excursion is the Ascent of the Matterhom. The northern 
or Zermatt route is the popular one, and nearly aU of those who go 
by it either start from, or must pass, the Lac Noir Hotel. In the 
last edition of Scrambles amongst the Alps the ascents which had 
been made of the Matterhom were tabulated down to the end of 
1879, and it appeared that those made from Zermatt and back to 
Zermatt were as compared with those made from Breuil and back 
to Breuil about six to one. The disproportion has become, perhaps, 
greater. 

The route now followed for the Ascent of the Matterhom from 
Zermatt is the same as that which was taken upon the first ascent, 
with the exceptions which will be pointed out. There are now tioo 
paths to the Lac Noir Hotel. Upon the first ascent the old, or more 
northern, path was followed. The other path and the Hotel were 
not then in existence. From the Hotel to the Homli ridge the 
present way is the same as that which was taken on the first ascent, 
but in 1865 there was mostly a track (not a path) and in some 
places not even a track. On the Homli ridge there was no track 
in 1865, but now there is a path.^ Tlie cahane on the Homli ridge 
(see p. 80) is a little short of the place where the real Matterhom 
begins to rise. A large part of those who make the ascent from 
Zermatt use this cahane as a starting-point, in which they perhaps 
make a mistake, as the small amount that is gained in time does 
not compensate for the weariness of getting through a night in such 
a place, under the usual conditions. ^ 

In passing from the end of the Homli ridge on to the actual 
peak, the exact ledges are traversed over which I myself led on the 
first ascent, and the track presently passes close to the spot where 
my tent was placed on July 13-14, 1865. In 1874, 1876, and 1892, 
I visited the tent-platform which was made here. In the two former 
years the wall of stones which was bmlt around it was still standing, 
and my initials were to be seen on the rock behind ; but in 1892 I 
found it difficult to recognise the spot. By natural decay, the plat- 
form was nearly obliterated, and the inscribed rock had fallen down. 

So long back as 1874 there was a strongly marked track up the 
East Face as far as the cahane which was first erected (see p. 79), 
and little piles of stones, placed in prominent situations, pointed out 
the way, even to the dullest person. The route taken now-a-days 

1 Which might be made into a good mule-path, or even into a carriage-road, up to 
the base of the mountain. 

2 See p. 145 for remarks in Alpina upon this ca^ne. 



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CHAP. XI. A WINTER ASCENT. 181 

at this part goes rather closer to the arSte of the North-East ridge 
than we went, in 1865. We bore more away on to the East Face, 
and proceeded more directly towards the 'shoulder' at the foot of 
the final peak. At the top of the * shoulder' we went to the right, 
on to the northern side (see pp. 59-60), to turn the nearly perpen- 
dicular cliflf which rose in front. Now, the usual way is to cUmb 
directly upwards by aid of fixed ropes and chains. The time occupied 
upon ascents is very variable. Those who start from the cabane on 
the Homli ridge are usually able to get back to Zermatt the same 
evening, if they wish. Some, however, are not so fortunate. For 
tarif, see Appendix D. 

Most ascents are made in the latter part of July, August and 
September. 1 Signor Vittorio Sella was the first to succeed in an 
Ascent in Winter. 

"Accompanied by J. -A. and Louis Carrel he left Breuil at 11 p.m. on 
March 16, 1882, the night being very fine. The Glacier du Lion was gained 
just before 3 a.m., the snow near it being in a very powdery condition, and 
the Col du Lion reached at 6 a.m., the party up to this point having walked 
by lantern-light. The rocks were then attacked, and, says Signor ^Ua, *no 
extraordinary diflBculty * was encountered, so that at 10 a.m. the party reached 
the Pic Tyndall and halted for breakfast. The passage of the ridge ^' {i.e. the 
southern shoulder) "was somewhat awkward, but the rocks of the final peak 
were free from snow, and the summit was gained at 2 p.m. The air was 
perfectly still and the view cloudless. . . After a short halt the descent of 
the Zermatt face was commenced, hardly any snow being found on the ar^e. 
This side of the mountain was already in shade, but the way was fairly easy 
until after the" (northern^ "shoulder was passed. From that point numerous 
serious diflficulties had to be overcome. . . The Swiss hut was reached at 7.30 
p.m., and after a very uncomfortable night Zermatt gained the next day. . . 
Signor Sella states that he suffered scarcely at all from the cold, save near 
the Glacier du Lion." — Alpine Journal, vol. x, p. 494. 

This remarkable Winter Ascent was actually effected in less time than 
is frequently occupied on summer ones. 

The Southern or Breoil route, though it has been largely < facili- 
tated,' still remains a more difficult route than the Zermatt or North- 
ern one. Up to the top of the southern * shoulder ' there is only one 
way that can be regarded as the established route on the southern 
side,2 but there are three ways up the final 500 feet. 

1. The route originally taken by Jean-Antoine Carrel upon the first ascent 
on the Italian side (see pp. 73-4). So far as I am aware this has only been 
used on two subsequent occasions. Mr. F. C. Grove went by it in 1867 (see 
pp. 76-7) and in 1895 Carrel's ascent was repeated by Mr. W. E. Davidson, 
with Christian Klucker and Daniel Maquignaz. All of the party considered 
the passage of the Zmutt face excessively difficult, and are of opinion that 
this route is beyond all comparison harder than any of the others up the 
mountain, with all of which (except the lower part of Penhall's route) both 
Mr. Daridson and his guides are personally acquainted. 2. The route which 
was discovered by J. -J. and J. -P. Maquignaz (see pp. 77-8). This leads very 
directly towards the summit, and is largely provided with rope. 3. Another 

1 The first ascent in 1897 was made on July 7. 

2 Some variations have been made below the Col du Lion, but the regular way to 
the Col is up the 'little' and the 'great staircase,' and by skirting the base of the 
cliffs of the T6te du Lion. See pp. 23, etc. 



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182 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. xi. 

way which was discovered in July, 1887, by J.-B. Maquignaz, J.-B. Pemiquet, 
and J. Aymonod, which goes diagonally up the precipice facing Breuil, to the 
E. of route 2. 

The main peak of the Matterhom on the Italian side is now 
festooned with rope from the top down to the Col du Lion, and 
several hundred feet are even fixed along the base of the cliffs of 
the T^te du Lion ! Altogether there cannot I think be less than 
1200 feet of fixed rope at one part or another. Notwithstanding the 
assistance this affords, comparatively few ascents are made on the 
Italian side. 

There is, finally, what is called the Zmutt route, that was first 
used by Messrs. Mummery, Penhall, and Baumann (see pp. 84, 85), 
leading from the upper end of the Zmutt Glacier up the long snow- 
slope which is a prominent feature of the north-west side of the 
Matterhom. The top of this slope is shewn on the right of the 
diagram on p. 69, and on the left of the Illustration on p. 160. 
This snow-slope affords an easy way up to a very considerable eleva- 
tion. The top of it is nearly on a level with the * Great Tower ' on 
the south-east ridge. ^ At its upper end there are some prominent 
pinnacles which are not easy to pass ; but, after that, the ascent of 
the rocks above does not present unusual difficulties. The face of 
the Matterhom between the Penhall couloir and the Col du Lion 
is almost incessantly raked by falling stones, and the couloir affords 
a natural path for the descent of a great many of them.^ Though 
the snow-ridge is free from this objection, there are loose rocks on 
the ardte above, which require care in handling. No ascent was 
made again, I believe, by this way until 1894. Since then the 
route has been used occasionally, but it is not likely that it will be 
traversed frequently, as it is circuitous, and tourists, like trade, drift 
into the easiest channels. ^ 

1 See the accompanying outline, in which A marks the Summit; B> the southern 
'shoulder'; C. the 'Great Tower*; D, the Col du Idon ; Ei Penhall's couloir; F, F» the 
Zmutt snow-ridge; G>Qi the Tiefenmatten Glacier; H> a feeder of the Tiefenmatten 
Glacier ; K, Ki Penhall's routes ; L, L. Mummery's route. 

9 This comer was the scene of the mad prank which is mentioned in the note at 
the foot of p. 86. 

3 Of the three amateurs and six guides who were concerned in the first ascents of 
the Zmutt side of the Matterhom six have perished. 1. Ferdinand Imseng was 
killed by an avalanche on Monte Rosa, Aug. 8, 1881. See p. 172. 2. Johann Petms 
was killed on the Aig. Blanche de Peuteret, July, 1882. Oause of accident is unknown. 
See Guide to Chamonix, pp. 58-9. 3. Mr. W. Penhall was killed by an avalanche on 
Aug. 4, 1882, near Grindelwald. 4. Mr. J. Baumann disappeared in South Africa at 
the end of 1890 or beginning of 1891. 6. Mr. A. F. Mummery (Usappeared on Nanga 
Parbat in Aug. 1895. 6. Emile Rey slipped while descending the Aig. du G^ant, on 
Aug. 24, 1895, and was killed on the spot. See Guide to Chamonix, pp. 63-4. 

Three others who were concerned with the southern side of the Matterhom have 
also come to premature ends, namely Dr. Tyndall and his guide Bennen, and J. -J. 
Maquignaz. The sad death of Dr. l^rndall will be remembered by all. Bennen was 
smothered by an avalanche on the Haut de Cry, Feb. 28, 1864. See Scrambles amongfA 
the Alps, Appendix A ; and J. -J. Maquignaz disappeared on Mont Blanc in Aug. 1S90. 
See Guide to Cham,onix, pp. 60-1. 



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CHAPTER XIL 

ON THE VALLEY OF SAAS (SAAS THAL). 

EXPLANATIONS — A YEAR OF AVALANCHES — STALDEN — EISTEN — 
HUTEGGEN — BALEN — SAAS (IM GRUND) — EXCURSIONS FROM SAAS 
— ALMAGELL— PASSES TO ANTRONA AND THE SIMPLON ROAD — 
MATTMARKSEE AND MATTMARK HOTEL — THE BLAUENSTEIN — 
MONTE MORO PASS — MACUGNAGA — THE MONDELLI PASS — SAAS- 
f6E— EXCURSIONS FROM SAAS-F6e — THE WEISSMIES HOTEL — 
EXCURSIONS FROM IT — HOW TO GET HOME. 

Formerly when one spoke of Saas the village was meant which now 
is called sometimes Saas im Grand and sometimes im Grand. The 
hamlet of Pee (774 feet above Saas), which formerly was invariably 
called F6e, is now almost aniversally called Saas-F^e.^ At present, 
if one asks for Saas, the natives will perhaps answer enquiringly 
*im Grand?' being in doabt whether the real, original Saas or the 
apstart Saas-F6e is meant. Im Grand may be translated <at the 
bottom,' or *at the lowest part.' Saas-F6e means * Fairy Saas.' 

The Saas Thai extends from Stalden to the Monte Moro Pass. [For 
Stalden, see chap, vii.] The lower part of the valley, from Stalden 
to Saas (im Grand), is extremely pictaresqae, and is fairly populated ; ^ 
bat the upper portion of the valley, from Almagell to the Monte 
Moro, is sterile and naked, and in all probability has never had a 
permanent population. The few chd,lets which are found there are 
not tenanted in winter. The valley in general is rather especially 
liable to snow -avalanches. Ruppen says that, < according to the 
chronicle writers,' 1741 was *a year of avalanches,' and refers [p. 
69] to the case of a woman who was swept away by one, and lay 
for 100 hours buried under the snow. She could hear people digging, 
and even listen to them speaking, but they could not detect her 

1 De Sauflsure speaks [8 2222] of the Valley of Sass. Prof. J. D. Forbes in his Travels 
[pp. 350-64] mentions Saas and F^. Both places are referred to under these names iii 
the 1854 ed. of Murray's Handbook, and in Ball's Guide to the Western Alps, in 1863. 
But in Sheet xxiii of the Carte Dufour, published in 1862, Saas is called im Grund, 
though F6e remains F^e; and in the Siegfried Map the nomenclature continues the 
same. 

5« It is stated in Die Chronik de% Tholes Saas, by Peter Joseph Ruppen, Sion, 1851, 
that the population of the four Oommunes Almagel, Balen, Fde and Grund amounted 
to 801 persons in 1850. At the census of 1888 it nad increased to 1000. According to 
Ruppen, Burgener was the most common family name in the Valley. 



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.CHAP. XII. THE SAAS THAL. 185 

smothered cries. At last, she and her spinning-wheel were found 
and saved. The way up the valley is liable to be interrupted even 
in summer or autunm when newly -fallen snow is melting quickly. 
This happened on Oct. 1, 1896, when the path was cut in several 
places by boulders that were brought down by the rapid liquefaction 
of a heavy fall which had occurred on the previous day. The women 
of the Saas Thai are famed for their strength. In 1894 I saw some 
of them carrying full-sized doors on their backs, up the valley, for 
some of the new hotels at Saas-F^e; and I was told that the large 
mirrors which can be seen in those establishments had been trans- 
ported from Stalden in a similar fashion. 

The path from Stalden to Saas is a mule-path all the way. Rough 
carts are used by the natives at some places, but the route is nowhere 
fit for carriages. Walking time from Stalden to Saas is about 3 hs. 
5 min. ; returning 2J hs. 



Ascending. 


min. 


Descending. 

min 


Stalden to Eisten 
Eisten to Huteggen . 
Huteggen to Balen (Aballa) 
Balen to Saas (im Grund) . 


. 60* 
. 30 
. 55 
. 40 


Saas (im Grund) to Balen . . 35 
Balen to Huteggen . . .40 
Huteggen to Eisten . . .25 
Eisten to Stalden ... 50 


Total . 3hs. 


5 min. 


Total . 2 hs. 30 min. 



The path from Stalden to Saas crosses the Railway at the Station; 
and descends in 3 min. to a bold bridge thrown across the Matter- 
visp. Good views from this bridge both up and down the valley. 
Very shortly after passing it, the path divides. Take the one to 
the left, with telegraph posts. [The other path leads to the Hannig 
Alp. See chap, vii.] It at once commences to rise steeply, on the 
left bank of the valley, and soon attains a great elevation above the 
Saaservisp. The village seen on the other side of the valley, nearly 
in front, is Staldenried, 3468 feet, 1057 metres; pop. 241. Look 
back occasionally at the mountains on the N. side of the Rhone 
VaUey. The prominent, pyramidal peak is the Bietschhom, 12,969 
feet, 3953 metres. At about 35 min. from Stalden the path is 
carried for a short distance along the face of a cliif, on a shelf cut 
in the rock ; and in 25 min. more arrives at the village of 

Eisten, 3557 feet, 1084 metres ; pop. 222. Post. This village was 
formerly united with Stalden, but it now forms a separate Commune. 
It is the abode of a number of Guides, who are seldom at home during 
the season. For their names see Appendix G. The church, which oc- 
cupies a prominent position, was erected recently. The path up the 
valley still continues on the left bank, and in 30 min. reaches 

Huteggen, 4088 feet, 1246 metres, where there is a small Hotel- 
Restaurant by the wayside, which is the only inn between Stalden 
and Saas. A path leading across country to St. Nicholas vid the 
Hannig Alp starts on the N. side of Huteggen ; and about 200 yards 
£outh of the hamlet another one goes away through forest to the 
ch&lets of Schweiben, 5581 feet, 1701 metres, whence one can cross 



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186 



ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN, chap. xii. 



the Ferrichliicke or the Gabelhom Pass to St. Nicholas. [See chap, 
vii.] Six or seven min. south of Huteggen the path up the Saas Thai 
crosses to the right hank of the valley, hy a fine, stone hridge, con- 
structed in 1896. Notice the manner in which the rocks here have 
been hollowed by the torrent. The way continues on the right bank 



TOSTALOEN 




2000 

SCALE Of FEET 



ENVIRONS OP SAAS. 



TO MONTE MORO 



for about 23 min., and then recrosses to the left bank. In about 20 
min. more it passes the church of 

Balen (Aballa), 4984 feet, 1519 metres; pop. 172; a Commune 
composed of several hamlets, situated upon nearly level ground ; and 
in 3 min. more again goes over to the right bank, and continues 
upon that side until Saas. Upon approaching that place, the bottom 
of the valley opens out, and aifords the largest expanse of flat grazing- 
ground in the district. 

Saas, or Saas im Grand, or im Grand, 5125 feet, 1562 metres ; pop. 
386. Post and Telegraph. Hotel.— Hotel -Pension Monte Moro, 



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CHAP. xn. SAAS—ALMAGELL. 187 

quite at the southern end of the village. Saas is pleasantly situated, 
and is increasing in public favour, though the great peaks cannot be 
seen from the village. It was formerly a starting-point for a large 
number of excursions, but the Weissmies Hotel has become the natural 
base for some of those towards the East, and Saas-F6e for most of 
those on the West. Almagell also, as it now possesses an inn, is 
available for the Antrona and Zwischbergen passes, and for various 
ascents. Saas, however, remains the starting-point for the easiest way 
from the Saas Thai to the Simplon Road, which is by the 

Simeli Pass, 9934 feet, 3028 metres, which leads md the Mattwald Alp 
(east of Huteggen) past the S.E. side of the Mattwaldhorn, 10,673 feet, 3253 
metres (seldom ascended), from the Valley of Saas into the Gamser Thai [This 
valley is also called Nanzer Thai or Nanz Thai. The village of Gamsen, in 
the lUione Valley, 3J kils. to the W. of Brieg, is at its mouth. Dynamite 
factory there.] Mr. Ball said in his Ouide to the Western Alps, 1863, "This 
valley has not yet attracted the attention of Alpine travellers," and that 
remains the case. Those who cross the Simeli Pass only descend to the head 
of the Nanz Thai, and then remoimt to the 

Sirwolten Pass, 8740 feet, 2664 metres, and descend upon the Simplon 
Road (which is scarcely 3 kils. away to the E.), near Refuge vii, about half- 
way between the summit of the Simplon and Simpeln, 4862 feet, 1479 metres. 
Time from Saas to the top of the Simeli Pass 4^ to 5 hs., and from the top 
to the Simplon Hospice or the village of Simpeln about 3 hs. The total time 
occupied is about the same if the passes are taken in the reverse direction. 

The principal of the little excursions from it are, (1) to the Hotel 
Weissmies, (2) to Saas-F6e, and (3) up the Valley to the Monte 
Moro Pass. Guides are unnecessary in fine weather. For other 
excursions see pp. 190-92, and for Taxif of Excursions from Saas see 
Appendix C. 

(1) There are two ways to the Hotel Weissmies, a small mountain inn 
situated to the N.E. of, and about 3000 feet above Ssias, on a lower slope of 
the Laquinhom. These two paths unite a little above the ch&lets on the Trift 
Alp, and by either of them the Hotel Weissmies can be gained in 3 hours. 

(2) There are two paths from Saas (im Grund) to Saas-F^, one commencing 
nearly opposite to the Hotel Monte Moro, and the other about half a mile to 
its south, at Zenlauenen (see Plan of Environs of Saas). By either route it 
takes 35 to 40 min. to get to Saas-F^e. The great attraction of this spot is 
the magnificent cirque of the Mischabel, which is one of the finest things of 
its kind in the Zermatt district. For Hotels and Excursions from Saas-Fde, 
see later. 

(3) To Mattmark See and the Monte Moro Pass. We will take this first. 

The path up the bottom of the valley continues on the right bank, 
and leads in about 35 min. to the village 

AlmageU, Almagel or AlmengeU, 5509 feet, 1679 metres ; pop. 207. 
Post. A small inn called Restaurant Portiengrat was opened here 
in 1896. Fine waterfall. See Appendix G for names of Guides. 
Almagell is near the entrance to the Furggthal, at the head of which 
is the Antrona Pass.^ 

1 This pass has been known for a very long time. Dr. Schiner says in his Degerip. 
du Dip. du Simplon^ p. 166, "on passait autrefois fr6quemment par Antrona . . . 
avec les chevaux et autres b^tails. On appelait ces passages ddjii en 1440 fort vieux 
passages.** 



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188 ZEBMATT AND THE MATTEBHOBN. chap. xii. 

The Antrona Pass affords the easiest and quickest way of getting from 
the Saas Thai to the Italian Lakes. Ahnagell to the summit (9331 feet, 2844 
metres) takes about 4 hours. Nowhere steep. Mules were formerly taken 
over this pass (see note, p. 187), but at the present time they cannot cross it, 
although they can go within an hour of the top. The summit lies between 
the Latelhom (10,561 feet, 3219 metres, easily ascended from this direction) 
and the Jazzihom, and on it there is an old, roofless cabane which was 
formerly used as a stable. The path on the Italian side at first descends 
steeply, and in about 45 min. passes near the southern side of the little Lago 
ii Cingino, r * ' 



di Cingino, 7191 feet, 2192 metres, and presently arrives at the first ch^ets 
(Alpe Cingino), 6663 feet, 2031 metres, in the Val Antrona. The path thence 
to the village of Antronapiana, 2959 feet, 902 metres, small hotel, is good. 
Time from summit about 4 hs. A carriage -road leads from Antronapiana to 
Villa d'Ossola Railway Stn., whence one goes (southwards) to the Lake of Orta. 
Antronapiana can also oe reached from the Saas Thai by the Ofenthal- 
pass, 9311 feet, 2838 metres, which leads through the Ofenthal (see p. 189), 
and crosses the chain S. of the Jazsdhom, joining the route of the Antrona 
Pass a litUe below the Alpe Cingino. Time Almagell to Antronapiana about 
9 hours. 

The Zwischbergen Pass, 10,656 feet, 3248 metres, at the head of a small 
valley running towards the E. from Almagell, goes between the Weissmies 
and the Portiengrat, and leads by a rather roundabout way to the Simplon 
K^. Not often used. Almagell to summit 3| to 4 hs. Sometimes upon this 
side of the pass there is little or no snow. On the eastern side, the route 
leads at first over snow, and then across the small Gemein Alp Glacier to 
the Val Varia. There are tracks on each side of the stream at the head of 
this vallejr, but lower down it there is a path on the left bank only. From 
the summit to Gk>ndo on the Simplon Road, 6 hours. 

The path up the valley for the Monte Moro Pass continues on 
the right bank, and in H kils. from Almagell passes the end of the 
Allalin Glacier, and arrives at the Mattmarksee. Notice the two 
great, lateral moraines. "The moraine supplies," says J. D. Forbes 
(Travels, p. 352), ** the well-known blocks of gabbro, containing Smarag- 
dite, which are recognised so extensively over the plains of Switzer- 
land, and which have no native locality in the Alps but here. They 
are brought down by the glacier from the inaccessible heights of the 
Saasgrat, . . so that the rock may probably never be found in situ.^^ 
This glacier extends to the bottom of and almost across the valley, 
leaving only just room for the stream flowing out of the lake. This 
was reputed to be deep. It is evidently shallow, and is now almost 
annihilated. The Hattmark Hotel (This is the only inn between 
Amagell — Macugnaga. Persons crossing the Monte Moro Pass, in 
either direction, do well to bring food along with them), 6965 feet, 
2123 metres, is 1 kil. south of the southern end of the lake, or 
about 7i kils. from Almagell and in time about 1 h. 40 min. A 
few hunared yards south of the hotel, and against the path, there is 
the great erratic block called the Blauenstein, which is one of the 
largest boulders in the Alps. 

According to Charpentier [Esmi sur les Glaciers), who quotes Venetz and 
does not seem to have seen the boulder himself, it measures 68 feet (French ?) 
long, 57 broad, and 63 high, and contains 244,000 cubic feet. I think these 
dimensions are in excess of the truth. The calculation of its volume is 
erroneous, as allowance is not made for the rounding of the angles. Char- 
pentier says that it was deposited at this place by the Schwarzenbeigg Glacier 



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CHAP. XII. 



THALLIBODEN. 



189 



in 1818, and that in 1821 there were old men living at Saas who had heard 
their fathers say that they had seen it upon the back of the glacier. 

The end of the Schwarzenbergg Glacier is now a kilometre from 
the boulder, and is the next object of interest on the way. A mile 
south of the Mattmark Hotel, one passes some ch^ets at the Distel 
Alp, 7120 feet, 2170 metres, which are the last on this side of the 
pass [The Ofenthal, at the head of which is the Ofenthalpass to 
Antronapiana, leads away hence to the E.]. The path now steepens, 
and in 2 kils. arrives at Thalliboden, 8189 feet, 2496 metres, at the 




THE BLAUENSTEIN, VALLEY OF SAAS, AND MATTMARK HOTEL. 

end of the glacier of that name. Mules stop here, and the rest of the 
way to the summit of the pass (which as the crow flies is distant 
IJ kil.) is generally over snow lying between the Thalliboden Glac. 
on the E., and the Seewineng Glac. on the W. The scenery here 
is desolate, but on arriving at the Col (Monte Horo, or Passo del 
Horo), 9390 feet, 2862 metres, one is rewarded with a superb view 
of the Italian side of Monte Kosa. The immediate summit of the 
pass is shelterless. Protection can be obtained during bad weather 
by descending a short distance on the southern side. From Mattmark 
Hotel to the summit reckon 2| to 3 hs. From the summit to Matt- 
mark can be accomplished in 1 h. 30 min. 



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190 ZEBMATT AND THE MATTEBHOBN. chap. xii. 

Upon commencing the descent into Italy, the route leads at first 
over snow-beds and then by rocky ground, towards the S.S.W., as 
far as the ch&lets of Galkeme, 6894 feet, 2101 metres. It then goes 
S.S.E., and descends rather more rapidly (principally through forest) 
into the Val Anzasca, which it joins at Pratti, one of the hamlets 
of Hacugnaga, 3937 feet, 1200 metres. Hotels.— Hotel Monte Moro 
(moderate prices), Hotel Monte Rosa. The descent from the summit 
to Macugnaga occupies about 2| hs. ; from Macugnaga to summit is 
a little less than 4 hs. For the head of the Val Anzasca, and route 
from Zermatt by the New Weissthor, see chap. x. 

[There is another way from the Saas Thai to the Val Anzasca by the Mondelli 
Pass, 9321 feet, 2841 metres. This diverges from the Monte Moro route at 
Thalliboden, crosses the chain about mid-way between the Joderhom and Pizo 
d'Antigine, and descends S.E. to Mondelli and a little farther on to I^equar- 
tera, in the Val Anzasca, about 7 kils. below Macugnaga.] ^ 

I return now across the Monte Moro Pass to speak of the excur- 
sions from Saas-F^e and the Weissmies Hotel. Saas -Fee, 5899 feet, 
1798 metres; pop. 235. Hotels.— GRAND Hotel Saas-Fee; Grand 
Hotel Bellevue ; Grand Hotel du Dom ; Hotel-Pension Saas- 
F6e. Tailor, Shoemaker, Restaurant, and several knick-knack shops 
in the village. A large church has been erected recently. 

Saas-F6e cannot be seen from im Grund or from the bottom of 
the Saas Thai. It is situated in a lateral valley (at some height 
above the main one), which lestds towards the West to the foot of 
the Mischabelhomer. The F6e basin is surrounded by the Allalin- 
horn, Alphubel, Taschhom, and Dom, and these great mountains 
form a sort of cirque, at the end of the valley. The distance of the 
village from the summit of the Dom is about 4^ miles, and the 
difference of level is about 9000 feet. Precipitous cliffs and fine glaciers 
bound the head of the basin, while down below, " embosomed in this 
imposing scene of desolation and solitude is the sweetest pastoral 
valley that ever God created or man enjoyed. The pasture grounds 
are rich and well -watered, the grass is of the freshest green." — Mr. 
Justice Wills, 

This (the eastern) side of the Mischabelhomer is much more striking than 
the western one, facing the Nicolai Thai, and is better seen ; but to thoroughly 
appreciate the proportions of these noble mountains one must get higher 
than the bottom of the valley of Saas-F€e. In the immediate neighbourhood, 
the Egginerhom, 11,080 feet, 3377 metres (about 4| hs. ascending, 2| 
descending), and the Mittaghom, 10,328 feet, 3148 metres (about 3 hs. 
ascending), are favourite points of view. The Egginer£p:ut from the Mittag- 
hom to the Egginerhom, keeping on the crest of the ridge the whole way, is 
a good climb. On the oppNOsite side of the Saas Thai (to the E., N.E., and 
S.E. of im Grund) the positions are even better, and are numerous. 

1 De Saussure refers (vol. iv, p. 387) to the strength of the women in the valleys 
around Monte Bosa. "I will give a notion of their strength," he says. **I had made 
up at Macugnaga an extremely heavy box of minerals, and asked my host if he could 
find a man who would carry it to Yanzon" {Yanzone], "whence it might be sent to 
Geneva. He answered quite seriously that there wasn't a man in the district who 
could carry such a burden such a distance ; but that if it was all the same to me to 
have a woman, he could easily find one who would carry it willingly, and it is the foot 
that two were sufficient to carry a mule-load." 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



CHAP. XII. 



SAAS-FEE. 



191 



The principal ascents made from Saas-F^ are those of the Balfrinhom, 
Ulrichshom, Siid-Lenzspitze, Dom, Taschhorn, Alphubel and AUalinhom. Those 
of the Dom and Taschhorn are effected more easily from other directions, and 
this side of those peaks has been very generally condemned, from the frequency 
of falling stones. See p. 120. The principal passes from Saas-F^e are the 
Ried Pass (to St. Nicholas], the Nadeljoch and Domjoch (to Randa), and 
the Mischabeljoch, Alphubeljoch and the F^ejoch (to the Tasch valley and 
Zermatt). It is better to take the three latter in the reverse direction. One 
of the nicest little walks from Saas-F^ is through forest to Almagell, by 
the track marked on the Plan on page 186. In shade the whole way ; fine 
examples of roches moutonnies near Saas-F^e. On arriving opposite to Almagell, 
cross the bridge, and return down the right bank of the Saas Thai to 
Zenlauenen or im Grund, and back home by one of the usual paths. The 
same walk may be extended to Mattmark and the Blauenstein (which will take, 
going, about 2 hs. 20 min.) ; or it may be continued to the top of the Monte 
Moro Pass, without undue fatigue. 




THE WEISSMIES HOTEL. 



The Tarif of excursions from Saas embraces some which are made from Saas 
and others which belong properly to Saas-F^e. No distinction is made. See 
Appendix C. For Guides see Appendix G. The Season at Saas-F^e closes 
earlier than at Zermatt. By the end of September the place, sometimes, is 
almost or quite deserted. 

The Weissmies Hotel (about 8125 feet) is a little inn (opened in 
1894 by the proprietor of the Hotel Monte Moro at Saas) placed in 
an excellent position as a point of view, intended to facilitate the 
ascents of the Fletschhom, Laquinhom and Weissmies, and the passage 
of the Rossboden Pass, Fletschjoch and Laquinjoch. The view from 
it is very extensive, and embraces the whole of the Italian side of 
Monte Rosa as far as the Col de la Loccie, the whole of the range 
of the Mischabel, and (near at hand) the Fletschhom, Laquinhom and 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



192 ZERMATT AND THE MATTERHORN. chap. xii. 

Weissmies. The very highest point of the Fletschhom is not visible, 
and not much of the Oberland can be seen. 

The Fletschhom, 13,127 feet, 4001 mHres, is the most northern of three con- 
siderable peaks on the eastern side of the Valley of Saas. They are all com- 
paratively easy of access, and all have been ascended from several directions. 
Whether the Fletschhom is mounted from the W. or S. the time occupied 
will be nearly the same. Ascending, about 5 hs. ; descending, 3 hs. The 
Laquinhom, 13,140 feet, 4005 metres, is only IJ kil. S. of the Fletschhom. 
Ascending, 4^ to 5 hs. I am informed that a descent has been effected from 
the summit to Saas in 3 hs. The Weissmies, 13,225 feet, 4031 metres, is 3^ 
kils. S. of the Laquinhom. From the Hotel to the top occupies about 5 hs. 
The descent may be made in 2J to 3 hours. 

The Bossboden Pass, about 10,800 feet, is the easiest of the three ways 
of getting from the Weissmies Hotel to the Simplon Boad. From the Hotel 
to the top takes 4 hs. and from the top to I^gen (2 kils. above Simpeln) about 
3^ hs. This pass appears to have been known for a long time. In 1833, a 
description of a passage of it was published at Geneva, entitled Passage du 
Roth-horn^ par Marc Viridet. The author set out from Saas at 6 a.m., on 
Aug. 1, 1833, with a couple of young fiiends and the Innkeeper, Moritz 
Zurbrucken. Two of the party had batons, M. Viridet carried an umbrella, 
and the fourth had no support. They were without rope or ice-axe, and 
experienced some of the vicissitudes which are usual, when traversing glaciers, 
imder such circumstances. M. Viridet advises his readers not to cross the 
Roth-horn (Rossboden Pass), and concludes by saying, "but if you will try 
this journey, munis-toi de guides^ de cordeSf et de bdtons ferris." Good advice. 

The Fletschjoch, (the next pass in order, proceeding from N. to S.), 
12,051 feet, 3673 metres, leads between the Fletschhom and Laquinhom to 
the Simplon Road. Its passage seems to have been first effected by Messrs. 
Jacomb and Chater with Christian Michel and Peter Baumann in 1863. Not 
recommended. The LaquinJoch, 11,473 feet, 3497 metres, between the 
Laquinhom and Weissmies(also leading to the Simplon Road) is more 
practical. It takes about 21 hs. from the Hotel to the top of the pass, and 
4 to 5 hs. from the top to Simpeln. 

And now. How are you going to get back? Perhaps time is up, 
or money running short? Then return the way you came, for it is 
the quickest and cheapest route. But if anything is left return by 
Bern,i — saunter on the Cathedral Platform, and then feed the Bears. 
Dine leisurely at the Buffet in the Station (reasonable prices) ; take 
your seat in good time in a through carriage to Calais (by the Delle 
route),2 and go to sleep, — knowing that the Douaniers at Belfort will 
be sure to wake you up and turn you out about midnight. After 
that, you can go to sleep again, and dream of Home, sweet Home ! 

1 Bern can be reached most quickly from Zermatt by taking train to Visp, thence 
travelling vid Lausanne and Fribourg ; but a person who is so happy as to be free from 
ho.ggage can get to Bern from Zermatt more economically by walking from Louche 
(Suste or Souste) to Leukerbad, and over the Qemmi Pass. See p. 99, and Plan on 
p. 97. 

2 One of the advantages of this route is that luggage registered to London is not 
examined in France, or until it arrives at the Station to which it was registered from 
Bern. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



APPENDIX. 



A.— 'TARIF' OF Excursions from ST. NICHOLAS. 



Guides. 
Francs. 

Ascent of the Balfrinhom 25 

do. Brunnegghom 40 

do. Grabenhoni 25 

do. Nadelhom 35 

do. do. descending to Saas ... 45 

do. do. descending to Banda ... 40 

do. Boihhom(Jimgthal) 15 

do. Schwarzhom 15 

do. Sparrenhom 15 

do. Ulrichshom 30 

Over the Balfrin Glacier to Saas 20 

By the Hannig Pass to Saas-F^ 15 

do. Jung Pass to Qruben 15 

do. Bied Pass to Saas-F^ 30 

B.—* TARIF' OF Excursions from RAND A. 

Ascent of the Bieshom 50 

do. Dom 60 

do. Dorrenhom 30 

do. Hohberghom 30 

do. Sudlenspitz 80 

do. T&schhom 60 

do. Weisshom 80 

To the Weisshom Cabane 20 

By the Biesjoch to Qruben 40 

do. do. Zinal 45 

do. Nadeljoch to Saas-F^e 45 

do. Schallijoch(Schallenjoch) to Zinal ... 50 



Porters. 
Francs. 

20 

25 

15 

20 

25 

20 

10 

10 

10 

20 

15 

10 

10 

20 



30 
40 
20 
20 
40 
40 
45 
15 
25 
25 
30 



C. — 'TARIF' OF Excursions from SAAS. 

Over the Dom to Eanda 100 70 

Ascent of the Allalinhom 25 15 

do. Almagellhom 20 10 

N.B.—THm tarif should be posted in all mountain hotels in the Canton Valais, and in 
theCabanes. , ,. , ., 

Before engaging Guides or Porters, It is desirable to have a clear understanding whether 
the agreed price includes return. 

O 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



194 



Taiif of Excursions from Sam, 



Guides. 
Francs. 

Ascent of the Alphubel, by the Alphubeljoch ... 36 

do. do. by the Mischabeljoch ... 40 

do. Balfrinhom 30 

do. Egginerhom 20 

do. Flettohhorn 40 

do. Joderhom 12 

do. Latelhom 10 

do. Laqninhom 40 

do. Mittaghom 10 

do. Nadelhom 40 

do. Portjengrat 40 

do. Bimpfischhom 40 

do. Sewinenhom 10 

do. Simelihom 12 

do. Sonnighom 26 

do. Stellihom 20 

do. Strahlhom 30 

do. T&8cbhom 80 

do. UlrichBhom 30 

do. Weissmies 40 

By the Adler Pass to Zermatt 30 

do. Allalin Pass to Zermatt 30 

do. Alphubeljoch to Zermatt 30 

do. Antrona Pass to Antrona 16 

do. Domjoch to Banda 50 

do. Feejoch to Zermatt 30 

do. Fletschhom Pass to Simpeln 30 

do. Fuiggen Pass to Antrona 20 

do. Laquinjoch to Simpeln 20 

do. Mischabeljoch to Zermatt 80 

do. Mondelli Pass to Anzasca 16 

do. Monte Moro Pass to Macngnaga .... 20 

do. Nadeljoch to Banda 45 

do. Ofenthal Pass to Antrona 15 

do. Portjen Pass to Antrona 20 

do. Bossboden Pass to Simpeln 20 

do. Sewinen Pass to Macngnaga 30 

do. Sirwolten Pass to Simpeln 20 

do. Sonnighom Pass to Antrona . . . . ! 20 

do. Zwischbergen Pass to Qondo 20 

To the Aleusser Thiirm •..,... 10 

do. AlmagellAlp 6 

do. FurggAlp 6 

do. InnererThurm 12 

do Mattmark Hotel 6 



Porters. 
Francs. 
26 
30 
20 
10 
30 
10 

8 
30 

8 

30 
30 
30 

8 
10 
16 
10 
20 
60 
20 
26 
20 
20 
20 
10 
36 
20 
20 
16 
16 
60 
10 
16 
30 
10 
16 
16 
20 
16 
16 
16 

8 

4 

4 
10 

6 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



Tarif of Excursions from Zermatt 



195 



Guides. 

Francs. 

To the Ofenthal 8 

do. Th&lliboden 8 

do. TriftAlp 6 

do. Triftgrat 10 



Porters. 
Francs. 



D.—* TARIF' OF Excursions from ZERMATT. 

Asceut of the Allalinhom 35 20 

do. do. descending to Saas ... 40 25 

do. Alphubel by the Alphubeljoch ... 35 20 

do. do. descending to Saas ... 50 30 

do. do. by the Mischabeljoch ... 40 25 

do. Blattenhdmer (Plattenhdmer) ... 10 8 

do. Breithom from the North .... 50 30 

do. do. from the South, in one day . . 25 15 
do. do. from the South, sleeping on the 

TheodulpasB 30 20 

Ascent of the Breithom from the South, sleeping on the 

Theodulpass, descending to Breuil .... 40 25 

Ascent of Castor, and back to the Biffel .... 35 20 

do. Castor and PoUuz, in one day .... 55 30 

do. do. descending to GresBoney 50 35 

do. the Cima di Jazzi from the Biffel ... 15 10 

do. do. viS, the Findelen Glacier .20 15 

do. Dent Blanche 80 45 

do. do. descending to Ferp^cle . . 90 50 

do. Dentd'Hdrens 80 60 

do. do. descending to Prerayen . 90 70 

do. Ebihom 30 20 

do. Gabelhom, Ober 70 40 

do. Ckibelhom, Unter 20 15 

do. Gomergrat 8 8 

do. Hohth&ligrat 10 10 

do. HomU 8 

do. J&gerhom, from the Biffel .... 30 20 

Ascent ofEleinMatterhom (Petit Mont Cervin) . . 15 10 

do. do. sleeping on the Theodulpass 25 15 

do. Lyskamm 100 60 

do. Mominghom 40 25 

do. Matterhom 100 70 

do. do. as far as the northern shoulder . . 60 40 

do. do. descending to Breuil . . .150 100 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



196 



Tarif of Excursions from ZeitnatL 



Guides. 
Francs. 

Ascent of Mettelhom 10 

do. do. as far as the saddle .... 8 

do. Mont Dvrand ( Arbenhom) .... 30 

do. do. descending to Zinal ... 40 

do. Monte Rosa, highest point .... 50 

do. do. Ludwigshdhe .... 40 

do. do. Nordend 50 

do. do. Parrotspitze 50 

do. do. Signalkuppe 50 

do. do. Vincent Psrramide ... 40 

do. do. do. descending to Alagna 60 

do. do. Zomsteinspitse .... 50 

do. Plattenh5mer(Blattenh5mer) . ... 10 

do. Pointe de Zinal 30 

do. PoUuz, and back to the Riffel .... 30 

do. Bimpfischhom, from the Allalin Pass 50 

do. do. from the Adler Pass ... 40 

do. do. from the Fluh Alp ... 35 

do. Bothhom, Ober 10 

do. Bothhom, Unter 8 

do. Bothhom, Zinal 80 

do. do. descending to Zinal 100 

do. Schallhom 40 

do. Stockhom 15 

do. Strahlhom .30 

do. do. descending to Saas .... 40 

do. T&schhom, from the T&sch Alp . 80 

do. Tete Blanche 25 

do. do. descending to Prerayen 30 

do. do. do. Arolla or Ferp^cle . 35 

do. T§teduLion 60 

do. Trifthom 30 

do. Wellenkuppe 40 

To the B^temps Cabane from the Biffelberg (Biffelhaus) 8 

do. do. from Zermatt .... 15 

do. Findelen Glacier 6 

do. Gomer Glacier 3 

do. Gomer Glacier, and through the s^racs to the Biffel 

orBiflfelAlp 12 

do. Hohbalm 5 

do. Matterhom Cabane (Hdmli ridge) ... 15 

do. Plattje, from the Biffel 8 

do. do. from Zermatt 15 

do. Biffel Alp Hotel 4 

do. Biffelberg (Biffelhaus) 5 



Porters. 

Francs. 

8 

6 

20 

30 

35 

25 

35 

35 

35 

25 

40 



20 
20 
35 
20 
20 
10 

8 
45 
60 
25 
12 
20 
25 
50 
15 
25 
30 
50 
15 
20 

6 
10 

6 



10 
6 

10 
4 
5 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



Tarif of Excursions from Zermatt. 



To the Riffelhom, from the Biffel Alp 
do. do. from the BiffelhauB 

do. do. by the sSracs of the Qomer Glacier 

do. do. from Zermatt . 

do. Schwar28ee(LacNoir) . 

do. Stodge ( ruins of Cabane ) 

do. Th^odule, hut on top of Pass 
do. do. lower hotel (Qandegg) 

do. Trift Hotel 

do. Zmutt Glacier . 
By the Allalin Pass to Saas 

do. Alphubeljoch to Saas 

do. Arbenjoch to Zinal . 

do. Bertol, Col de, to AroUa 

do. Bouquetins, Col de, to Arolla 

do. Cimes Blanches to Fiery 

do. Durand, Col, to Zinal 

do. Feejoch to Saas 

do. Felil^och to Gressoney . 

do. Furggjoch to Breuil 

do. H^rens Col d', to Ferp^cle 

do. J&gexjoch to Macugnaga 

do. Lysjoch to Alagna . 
do. do. to Gressoney 

do. Mischabeljoch to Saas-Grond 

do. Morning, Col de, to Zinal 

do. Boihhomjoch to Zinal 

do. Schwarzthor to Fiery . 

do. Sesiajoch to Alagna 

do. Theodul Pass ( Hatteijoch ) to Breuil 

do. Tiefenmattenjoch to Prerayen 

do. Tonmanche, Col de, to Breuil 

do. Trift Pass (Triftijoch) to Zinal 

do. Valpelline, Col de, to Prerayen 
do. do. the Col du Mont Brul^, 

the Col de TEydque to Mauvoisin 

do. Valpelline, Col de, and the Col du Mont Brul^ 

Arolla 

do. Weissihor, New, to Macugnaga 

do. do. Old, to Macugnaga 

do. do. Schwarzberg, to Mattmark 

do. Zinal, Col de ( Zinaljoch, Col de la Dent Blanche ). 

to Zinal 

do. Zwillings Pass to Fiery 



and 
to 



Guides. 


Porters. 


Francs. 


Francs. 


8 




6 




20 




10 




6 


6 


15 


10 


10 




8 




8 




5 




30 


20 


30 


20 


40 


30 


30 


25 


30 


25 


25 


15 


35 


25 


30 


20 


40 


25 


25 


16 


30 


25 


40 


30 


50 


40 


45 


30 


35 


25 


50 


35 


40 


30 


40 


25 


60 


45 


20 


15 


40 


25 


40 


25 


35 


25 


35 


20 


60 


40 


30 


25 


35 


25 


40 


30 


30 


20 


35 


25 


40 


25 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



*TAKIF' FOR Horses and Mules at ZERMATT. 

Francs. 

To the Village Of Hndelon 8 

do. Glacier of Findelen 10 

do. Qorges of the Oomer 5 

do. Oorner Olader . 8 

do. Qomergrat 15 

do. do. returning by the Findelen Valley, or vice-versa . 18 

do. Mettelhomi 18 

do. LacNoir(Schwar28ee) 10 

do. do. retummg by the Staffelalp, or vice-verm ... 15 

do. Plattje Cabane 20 

do. BilTelalp 8 

do. do. returning by the Findelen Valley, or vice-verm . . 10 

do. Riffelberg , 10 

do. do. returning by the Findelen Valley, or vice-verm . 12 

do. T&8cbalp 15 

do. Col Theodule, as far as the moraine 15 

do. do. Tts far as Hotel Qandegg 17 

do. Tiift Hotel 15 

do. Village Of Zmutt 8 

do. Zmutt Glacier 10 

* TARIF ' AT ZERMATT for * Porteurs a chaise ' (per man). 

To the Village of Findelen 4 

do. Glacier of Findelen 6 

do. Gorges of the Gomer 3 

do. Gomer Glacier 4 

do. Gomergrat 8 

do. do. returning by the Findelen Valley ... 10 

do. Mettelhomi 10 

do. LacNoir (Schwarzsee) 6 

do. do. returning by Staffelalp 8 

do. Plattje Cabane 12 

do. Riffelalp 4 

do. do. returning by the Findelen Valley . . . 6 

do. Riffelberg 6 

do. do. returning by the Findelen Valley .... 8 

do. Col Theodule, as far as the Hotel Gandegg .... 10 

do. do. to the summit of the Pass .... 12 

do. do. and across to Breuil 15 

1 Enquiry should be made whether horses or chaises a porteur can go to the top. 

Digitized by VjOOQIC 



E. — Mountains in and around the Basin of the 
Valley of ZERMATT. 



Name of Peak. 


Height 
in 


Height 
in 


Situation. 




Metres. 


Feet. 




Allalinhom . . . 


4034 


13,236 


E.S.E.^E. of Tasch; E.N.E. of 
Zermatt; N.E. of Allalinpass. 


Alphubel 


4207 


13,803 


E.4S. of Tasch; S. of Mischabel- 
joch ; N.W. of Alphubeljoch. 


Arbenhom (MtDnrand) 


3744 


12,284 


W. by N. of Zermatt ; E. of Col 
Durand ; W. of Arbenjoch. 


Augstbordhom . 


2974 


9757 


WestofStalden. 


BalfrmCBalenfim) 


3802 


12,473 


S. ofStalden; E. of Herbrigen. 


Bahnenhom (Monte 

Rosa) 


4324 


14,187 


E. by S. of Lysjoch. 


Barrhom 


3621 


11,880 


W.S.W. ofSt. Niklaus. 


BieBhom 


4161 


13,652 


W.N.W. of Randa ; W. of Biesjocb. 


Bigerhom 


3180 


10,433 


S.E. of St. Niklaus. 


Breithom 


4171 


13,685 


South of Zermatt. 


Bnmnegghom 


3846 


12,619 


N.W. of Randa ; S.E. of Brunnegg- 
joch. 


Castor .... 


4230 


13,878 


S.S.E. of Zermatt; S.E. of Zwillings- 


Cima di Jazzi 


3818 


12,526 


pass. 

E.S.E. of Zermatt ; S. of the New 
Weissthor. 


Cima di Boffel 


3645 


11,959 


N.E. of Cima di Jazzi. 


Dent Blanche 


4364 


14,318 


W. by N. of Zermatt. 


Dent d'H^rens (d'Erin) 


4180 


13,714 


W.S.W. of Zermatt ; E. of Tiefen- 
mattenjoch. 


Dom .... 


4554 


14,941 


E. by S. of Randa ; N.E. of Zermatt ; 
S. of Nadeljoch. 




3056 


10,026 


W. by S. of Stalden. 


Durchlochhom 


2704 


8872 


East of St. Niklaus. 


Dnirenhom . 


4035 


13,238 


N.E. by E.4E. of Randa; N. of 
Hohberg Pass. 


Ebihom 


3343 


10,968 


W. of Zermatt. 


Egginerhom 


3377 


11,080 


Between the Feegletscher and the 
SaasThal. 


Ferrichhom . 


3292 


10,801 


S.E. by E. of St. Niklaus ; S. of 
Ferrichliicke. 


Festihom 


3249 


10,660 


W. of St. Niklaus. 


Fillarhom 


3679 


12,070 


S.E. by E. of Zermatt ; S. of the 
Old Weissthor. 








Fluchthom . 


3802 


12,473 


N.E. oftheStrahlhorn. 


Fluhhom 


3318 


10,886 


E. of Zermatt ; W. of Langenfluh- 
pass. 


Fnrggen, Gr. 


2820 


9252 


E.S.E. of Grachen. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



200 Mountains in and around the Basin of the Valley of Zermait, 





Height 


Height 




Name of Peak. 


in 


in 


Situation. 




Metres. 


Feet. 




Fnrggen, Kl. 


2650 


8694 


E.^S. of Grachen. 


Fnrgg-grat . 


3498 


11,477 


Between the summit of the Theodul- 
pass and the Matterhom. 


Furggwanghom . 


3163 


10,377 


W.N.W. of St. Niklaus; N. of 

Jungpass. 
W. ofTasch. 


Oetschimghom . 


2860 


9383 


Gabelhom . 


3135 


10,276 


KJS. of St. Niklaus. 


Oabelhom, Ober . 


4073 


13,363 


W.N.W. of Zermatt. 


Ghibelhom, Unter 


3398 


11,149 


W. by N. of Zermatt. 


Galenhom 


3360 


11,024 


E. of Herbrigen ; N. of Galenpass. 


Oemshom 


? 


? 


N.W. of Saas-F€e ; E.N.E. of the 
Uhdchshom. 


OomeTgrat . 


3136- 


10,289 


North side of the Gromer Glacier. 


Grabenhom . 


3375 


11,072 


E.S.E. of Randa. 


GKigel .... 


2707 


8882 


E.N.E. of the Riffelhaus. 


Hohberghom 


4226 


13,865 


E.N.E. of Randa ; S. of Hohberg- 
pass. 


Hohth&ligrat 


3289 


10,791 


S.E. by E. of Zermatt. 


Hohw&nghom 


3482 


11,424 


W. of Zermatt ; N. side of Zmutt 
Glacier. 


HdmU .... 


2893 


9492 


S.W.iW. of Zermatt. 


J&gerhom . 


3975 


13,042 


S.E. by E. of Zermatt ; N. of Jager- 

joch. 
E. by N. ofTasch. 


Leiterspitz . 


3218 


10,558 


Ludwigshohe 


4344 


14,252 


Head of the Grenz Glacier. 


Lyskamm 


4538 


14,889 


S.E. by S. of Zermatt ; E. of Felik- 
joch ; W. of Lysjoch. 


Matterhom or Mont 


4482 


14,705 


S.W. by W. of Zermatt. 


Cervin 








Mettelhom . 


3410 


11,188" 


S. W. by W. of Tasch ; N. of Zermatt. 


Mittaghom . 


3148 


10,328 


Between the Feegletscher and the 
Saas Thai. 


Monte Rosa . 


4638 


15,217 


S.E. of Zermatt. 


Nadelhom . 


4334 


14,218 


E. by N. of Randa. 


Nordend ( Monte Rosa ) 


4612 


15,132 


N.N.E. of the Hochste Spitze. 


Petit Mont Cervin 


3886 


12,750 


S. by W. of Zermatt; E. of Theodul- 
pass. 


Parrotspitae (Mte. Rosa) 


4463 


14,643 


Head of the Grenz Glacier. 


Plattenhdmer 


3136 


10,261 


N. of Zermatt. 


Platthom . . . 


3249 


10 660 


E. by S. of St. Niklaus; N. of 
Ferrichliicke. 


PoUux .... 


4094 


13,432 


S.S.E. of Zermatt; N.W. of 
Zwillingspass. 


Biffelhom 


2931 


9616 


S. by E. of Zermatt. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



Mountains in and around ths Basin of the Valley of Zerniatt. 201 





Height 


Height 




Name of Peak. 


in 


in 


Situation. 




Metres. 


Feet. 




Rimpfischhom 


4203 


13,790 


E. of Zermatt ; N. of Adler Pass. 


Rothhom 


3262 


10,702 


W. by N. of St. Niklaus ; S. of 
Jungpass. 


Bothhom or Homing . 


4223 


13,855 


S. W. by W. of Randa ; W. of Tasch ; 
S. of Momingpass. 








Rothhom, Ober . 


3418 


11,214 


E. by N. of Zermatt. 


Rothhom, Unter . 


3106 


10,190 


E. of Zermatt. 


Schallihom . 


3978 


13,051 


W.S.W. of Randa; S. of Sf^haUijoch ; 
N. of Momingpass. 


Schwarzhom 


2806 


9203 


W. of Saas-F€e. 


Schwanhom 


3204 


10,512 


W. of Kalpetran ; N. of Augstbord- 
pass. 


Seethalhom . 


3038 


9967 


E. of St. Niklaus. 


Signalkiippe (Mte. Rosa) 


4561 


14,964 


Head of the Grenz Glacier. 


Sparrhom . 


2990 


9810 


W. by N. of St. Niklaus. 


Steinthalhom . . 


3113 


10,213 


N.W. of St. Niklaus ; S. of Augst- 
bordpass. 


SteUihom . 


3415 


11,204 


W. by S. of St. Niklaus. 


Stockhom . 


3534 


11,595 


E.S.E. of Zermatt; W. of Stock- 
hompass. 


Stodge . . . 


3097 


10,161 


W. by S. of Zermatt. 


Strahlhom . 


4191 


13,750 


E. by S. of Zermatt ; S.E. of Adler- 
pass. 


Sud-Lenzspitze . 


4300 


14,108 


E. of Randa ; N. of Nadeljoch. 


T&8chhom 


4498 


14,757 


E.S.E. of Randa ; E. by N. of Tasch ; 
S. of Domjoch. 


T6te Blanche 


3750 


12,303 


W. by S. of Zermatt ; N. of Col de 
Valpelline. 


T«te du Lion . . 


3723 


12,215 


Between the Matterhom and the 
Dent d'H^rens. 


T6te de Valpelline 


3813 


12,510 


W.S.W. of Zermatt ; S. of Col de 
Valpelline. 


Theodnlhom 


3472 


11,391 


S.S.W. of Zermatt ; N. of Theodul- 
pass. 


Trifthom . . . 


3737 


12,261 


N.W. by W. of Zermatt; N. of 
Triftjoch. 


Ulrichshom . 


3929 


12,891 


E.N.E. of Randa; S. of Riedpass. 


Wasenhom . 


3340 


10,958 


W.^S. of St. Niklaus. 


WeizseEgg . 


3168 


10,394 


N.W. by W. of St. Niklaus. 


Weizzhom . 


4512 


14,803 


W. of Randa. 


Wellenkuppe 


3910 


12,828 


N.W. by W. of Zermatt. 


Zinal, Pointe de . 


3806 


12,487 


W.JN. of Zermatt; W. of Col 
Durand. 


Zumzteinzpitze (Monte 


4573 


15,004 


Head of the Grenz Glacier. 


Rosa) 









Digitized by VjOOQIC 



F. — Passes in the Basin of the Valley of ZERMATT 
AND ITS Environs. 





Height 


Height 




Name of Pass. 


in 


in 


Position of Summit 




Metres. 


Feet. 




Adlerpass . 


3798 


12,461 


Between the Strahlhom and Rimp- 


AlUlinpass . 


3670 


11,713 


Between the Allalinhom and Rimp- 
fiflchhnm 


Alphabeljoch . . 


3802 


12,474 


Between the Alphubel and Allalin- 
hom. 


Antronapass 


2844 


9331 


E. by S. of Mattmark See. 


ArbiPjoch . 


3650 


11,975 


Between Ober Gabelhorn and Mont 
Durand (Arbenhorn). 


AngstbordpasB 


2893 


9492 


Between the Schwarzhom and 


Bie^joch 


3549 


11,644 


Between the Bieshorn and Bnin- 
negghom. 


Breuiljoch . 


about 


10,900 


At the head of the Furgg Glacier ; 
S.E. of the Matterhom. 


Brunneggjoch 


3383 


11,099 


N.W. of the Bninnegghom. 


Domjoch 


4286 


14,062 


Between the Dom and Taschhorn. 


Durand, Col . 


3474 


11,398 


Between the Dent Blanche and 
Mont Durand (Arbenhorn). 


Feejoch. 


3812 


12,507 


W.N. W. of the Allalinhom. 


Felilcjoch 


4068 


13,347 


Between Castor and the Lyskamm. 


Ferrichlucke 


2889 


9479 


Between the Platthom and Ferrich- 
hom. 


Fillaijoch . . . 


? 


? 


Between the Fillarhom and Jager- 
hom. 


Furggjoch . 


about 


10,900 


At the head of the Furgg Glacier ; 
S.E. of the Matterhom. 


Qabelhompass 


about 


10,170 


Between the Gabelhom and Platt- 
hom. 


Galenpass . 


3240 


10,630 


Between the Galenhom and Dlirren- 




2912 


9554 


E. of Dreizehnenhom. 


H^rens, Col d' 


3480 


11,418 


N.E. of the T^te Blanche. 


HohbergpasB 


? 


? 


Between the Durrenhom and 
Hohberghom. 


Jagexjoch 


? 


? 


Between the Nord End (Monte 
Rosa) and Jfigerhom. 


Jnngpass 


2994 


9823 


Between the Furggwanghom and 
Rothhom. 


Langenfluhpass . 


3200 


10,499 


Between the Fluhhom and Rimp- 
fischhom. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



Passes in the Basin of the Valley of Zeimatt and its Environs, 203 





Height 


Height 




Name of Pass. 


in 


in 


Position of Summit. 




Metres. 


Feet 




Laquinjoch . 


3497 


11,473 


S. of Laquinhom ; N. of Weissmies. 


Lion, Col da . 


3677 


11,736 


Between the T6te du Lion and 
Matterhorn. The height is accord- 
ing to the Italian Map scale ^^^^p^. 


Lyojoch 


about 


14,000 


Between the Lyskamm and Lud- 
wigshohe (Monte Rosa). 


Mischabeljoch . . 


3856 


12,651 


Between the Taschhorn and 
Alphubel. 


Momingpass 


3793 


12,444 


Between the Schallihom and Roth- 
horn ( Morning ). 


Mondellipa4Ei8 


2841 


9321 


Head of Saasthal, a little E. of 
Monte Moro. 


Moro, Monte (Passo del 

Moro). 
Nadeljoch . . . 


2862 


9390 


Between Saas Thai and Macugnaga. 


4167 


13,672 


Between the Nadelhom and Dom. 


Ofenthalpass 


2838 


9311 


N.E. of Monte Moro. 


Piodejoch . 


? 


? 


Between the Parrotspitze and 
Ludwigshohe. 


Biedpass 


about 


11,900 


Between the Balfnn (Balenfim) 
and Ulrichshorn. 




? 


? 


N. by W. of the Fletschhom. 


Schallljoch . . . 


3751 


12,307 


Between the Schallihom and Weiss- 


Schallijoch, Ober 


3745 


12,287 


Between the Schallihom and Mom- 
ingpass. 


SchwarzbergWeissthor 


3600 


11,811 


Between the Strahlhom and Cima 
Hi RnfTAl 


Schwarzihor 


3741 


12,274 


Between the Breithom and Pollux. 


Sesiajoch . . . 


4411 


14,472 


Between the Parrotspitze and 
Signalkuppe. 


Silbersattel . . . 


4490 


14,731 


Between the Nord End and Hochste 
Spitze (Monte Rosa). 


Simelipass . 


3028 


9934 


E. of Eisten (Saasthal). 


SirwoltenpasB 


2664 


8740 


Head of Gamserthal, east side. 




3415 


11,204 


E. of the Stockhom, between the 
Findelen and Gromer Glaciers. 


Theodulpass or Matter- 


3322 


10,899 


Between the Theodulhom and 


joch . . . . 






Klein Matterhom (Petit Mont 
Cervin). 


Tiefenmattenjoch 


3593 


11,788 


Between the T6te de Valpelline and 
Dent d'H^rens (Mont Tabor) 








Toumanche, Col de 


3468 


11,378 


Between the Dent d'H^rens and the 
T^te du Lion. 


Trifyoch 


3540 


11,614 


Between the Trifthom and Wellen- 
kuppe. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



204 Passes in the Basin of the Valley of Zermait and Us Environs. 



Name of Pass. 


Height 

in 
Metres. 


Height 

in 
Feet 


Position of Summit 


Valpelline, Col de 
WeiuhomPass . 
Weissthor, New . 
Weissthor, Old . . 

ZwillinflrspasB 
Zwischbergenpass 


3562 

? 

3600 

3576 

3500 

3861 
3248 


11,687 

? 

11,811 

11,733 

11,483 

12,668 
10,656 


Between the T6te Blanche and the 

T6te de Valpelline. 
Between the Weisshom and the 

Bieshom. 
Between Cima di Jazzi and Cima di 

Roflfel. 
Between Cima di Jazzi and the 

Fillarhom. 
Between the Dent Blanche and the 

Pointe de Zinal. 
Between Pollux and Castor. 
Between the Weissmies and Port- 

jengrat. 




AN OLD PUBLIC SERVANT. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



G.— List of Guides of ZERMATT, TASCH, RANDA, 
ST. NICHOLAS, STALDEN, VISP, SAAS, etc. 



Andenmatten Adolph {Almagell). 
Andenmatten Baptist (Almagell). 
Andenmatten BasU (Eisten). 
Andenmatten David {Eisten). 
Andenmatten Moritz ( Stalden,). 
Andenmatten Polycarp ( Staldm ). 
Andenmatten Xavier {Almagell). 
Anthamatten Aloys {Balen). 
Anthamatten Franz {Saas). 
Anthamatten Job. -Jos. {Saas). 
Anthamatten Johann-Peter {Saas). 
Anthamatten Roman {Saas). 
Aufdenblatten Emmanuel {ZemuUt) 
AUFDENBLATTEN Johann {Zenmutt). 
Aufdenblatten P. -Jos. {Zenmtt). 
Aufdenblatten S^verin ( Tasc?i). 
BiBNER Alois {Zermatt). 
BiBNER Franz {Zermatt). 
BlENER Franz {Zermatt). 
BiBNER Ignaz {Zermatt). 
BiBNBR Joseph {Zermatt). 
BlENBR Joseph-Marie {Zermatt). 
BiBNER Joseph-Lorenz {Zervmtt ). 
BiBNER Joseph-Marie (*S<. Nicholas). 
BiBNER Marius {Zermatt). 
BlENBR Peter- Anton {Zermatt). 
BiBNBR Raphael {Zermatt). 
BlENBR Theodul {Zei^iatt). 
BIPFIGER Jos. -Marie {St. Nicholas). 
Blumenthal Joseph-Marie ( Eistm ). 
Brantschen Adolph ( Randa). 
Brantschen Joseph {St. Nicholas). 
BfJMANN Gottfried {Randa). 
Burgbner Alois {Eisten). 
BURGBNER Alexander {Eisten). 
Burgbner Franz ( Eistm ). 
Burgbner Fridolin {St. Niclwlas). 
Burgbner Elias {Balen). 
Burgbner Emmanuel {Balen). 



Burgbner Joseph-Marie {Saas-Fie). 
Burgbner Peter- Joseph {Almagell). 
Chanton VQi^r'ljvAvnQ{St. Nicholas). 
FURRER Alphons {ZerrmU). 
FURRBR Elias {Stalden). 
FURRER Ferdinand {Eisten). 
FuRRER Franz {Eisten). 
Fux Joseph-Marie {St. Nicholas). 
Gentinbtta August {Zermatt). 
Gentinbtta Emmanuel {Glis). 
Gentinbtta Joseph ( Glis). 
Graven Emil {Zermatt). 
Gruber Alphons {St. Nicholas). 
Gruber Peter {St. Nicholas). 
GUNTERN Alexander {Zermatt). 
Imboden Alois {St. Nicholas). 
Imboden Ambrose {St. Nicholas). 
Imboden Felix {Tdsch). 
Imboden Ferdinand ( TOsch). 
Imboden Friedrich ( TOsch). 
Imboden Joseph {St. Nicholas). 
Imboden Joseph-Marie {TOsch). 
Imboden Nicholas {St. Nicholas). 
Imboden Theodul {St. Nicholas). 
Imboden Theophil {St. Nicholas). 
Imseng Abraham {Saas-Fie). 
iMSBNG Aloys {Saas-Fie). 
Imseng Emil {Saas-Fie). 
Imseng Moritz {Saas-Fee). 
Imseng Xavier ( Saas-Fie ). 
JULEN Edouard {Zermatt). 
JULBN Elias {Zermatt). 
JuLEN Emmanuel {Zermatt). 
JULEN Felix ( Zermatt ). 
JULBN Gabriel {Zermatt). 
JuLEN Hieronymus {Zermatt). 
JULEN Julius ( Zermatt ). 
Kalbermatten Joseph {Almagell). 
Kalbermatten a. {Balen ). 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



206 



List of Guides of Zermatt, etc, — continued. 



Kalbbrmattbn Emmanuel {Saas). 
Karlbn Polycarp ( T&rbel). 
Knubbl Csda&riSt, Nicholas). 
Knubbl Peter {St, Nicholas). 
Knubbl Salomon {St. Nicholas). 
Kronig Aloys {Zermait). 
Kronig Fridolin ( Zermait ). 
Kronig Johann {ZermaU). 
Kronig Leopold ( T&sch). 
Kronig Mathias {ZermaU). 
Laogbr Alfred {St. Nicholas). 
Laggbr Jos. -Marie {St. Nicholas). 
Lauber Elias {Zermait). 
Lbrjbn Aloys ( Tdsch ). 
Lbrjen Johann ( Tdsch). 
LocHMATTER Jos. -Marie {St. Nicholas) 
LOCHMATTER Joseph {St. Nicholas). 
LOCHMATTBR JuKus {St. Nicholas). 
MosER Anton ( Tdsch ). 
MOSER Fridolin ( Tdsch ). 
MosBR Joseph ( Tdsch). 
MosER Joseph ( Zermatt ). 
MosERhio {Tdsch). 
MosER Robert ( Tdsch ). 
Perren Emil {Zermatt). 
Perren Clemens {BaTida). 
Perren Franz ( Zermatt ). 
Perren Fridolin {Rarida). 
Perren Hermann {Zermatt). 
Perren Moritz {Zermatt). 
Perren Peter, 1882 {Zeimatt). 
Perren Peter, 1886 {Zermait). 
Perren Peter-Anton {Zei-matt). 
POLUNGER Alois {St. Nicholas). 
POLUNQER Joseph {St. Nicholas). 
RUPPEN Ad. {Saas-FSe). 
RUPPEN Aloys (>Saa«). 
RupPEN Peter ( Visp ). 
Sarbach Peter ( St. Nicholas ). 
ScHALLER Adolph {Raiida). 
ScHALLER Anton {Enid). 
ScHALLER Joseph ( Randa ). 
ScHALLER Victus ( Emd ). 
ScHANTON Jos. -Marie {St. Nicholas). 
ScHWARZBN Heinrich {Randa). 



ScHWARZBN Quirinus {Randa). 
ScHWARZBN Viliam {Randa). 
SiGRiST Joseph {Zei-matt). 
SUMMBRMATTBR Alph. {Randa). 
SUMMBRMATTBR Clemens {Randa). 
SUMMBRMATTBR Friedrich {Randa). 
SUMMBRMATTBR Johann {Ranida). 
SUPBRSAXO Albert {Balen). 
SUPBRSAXO Aloys {Saas-FSe). 
SuPBRSAXO Alphons {Saas-Fie). 
SUPBRSAXO Ambros {Saas-Fie). 
SUPBRSAXO Ambros {Saas-Fie). 
SUPBRSAXO Anton {Saas-Fie). 
SUPBRSAXO Benedikt {Saas-Fie). 
SUPBRSAXO Ignaz {Sam-Fie). 
SUPBRSAXO Johann-Peter ( Saas-Fie ). 
SUPBRSAXO Ludwig {Saas-Fie). 
SUPBRSAXO Peter- Joseph {Saas-Fie). 
Taugwalder Gabriel {Zetimatt). 
Taugwalder Heinrich {Zermait). 
Taugwalder Joseph {Zermatt). 
Taugwalder Peter {ZermaU). 
Taugwalder Rudolph ( Zermatt ). 
Truffer Aloys {Randa). 
Truppbr Aloys {Randa). 
Truffer Fridolin {Randa). 
Truffer Johann- Jos. {St. Nicholas). 
Truffer Joseph {Randa). 
Truffer Jul. {Randa). 
Truffer Peter-Joseph {St. Nicholas) 
Truffer Samuel {Randa). 
Venetz p. -Joseph {Stalden). 
WiLLlSCH Joseph ( St. Nicholas ). 
Zen-Klusen Kaspar ( Glis ). 
ZUBER Franz ( Randa ). 
ZUBER Peter ( Randa ). 
Zum-TaUGWald Jul. {Zermait). 
Zum-Taugwald Mathias {Zermait). 
Zum-Taugwald Sebastian {Ratida). 
Zurbriggen Clemens ( Saas ). 
ZURBRIGGEN Clemens ( Saas ). 
Zurbriggen Daniel {Saas-Fie). 
Zurbriggen Franz {Saas). 
Zurbriggen Peter- Joseph {Almagell) 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



H . — CouRTE Note sur la G^ologie du Matterhorn. Par Signor 
F. Giordano, Ing^nieur en Chef des Mines dltalie, etc. etc. 

Le Matterhorn ou Mont Cervin est form6 depois la base jusqu'au 
sommet de roches stratifi^es en bancs assez r^guliers, qui sont tons 
l^gferement relev^s vers I'Est, savoir vers le Mont Rose, Ces roches 
quoiqu'evidemment d*origine sMimentaire ont une structure fortement 
cristalline qui doit §tre Teflfet d'une puissante action de metamorphisme 
tr^s-d^velopp^e dans cette region des Alpes. Dans la s^rie des roches 
constituantes du Mont Cervin Ton pent faire une distinction assez 
niarqu^, savoir celles formant la base inf^rieure de la montagne, et 
celles fomiant le pic proprement dit. 

Les roches de la base qu*on voit dans le Val Toumanche, dans le 
vallon do Z'Mutt, au col de Th^odule et ailleurs, sont en g^n^ral des 
schistes talqueux, serpentineux, chloriteux, et amphibollques, alternant 
fort souvent avec des schistes calcaires k noyeaux quartzeux. Ces 
schistes calcaires de couleur brunfttre altement 9a et \k avec des dolomies, 
des cargueules, et des quartzites tegulaires. Cette formation calcar^- 
serpentineuse est tr^s etendue dans les environs. Le pic au contraire est 
tout form^ d'un gneiss talqueux, souvent k gros ^Uments, alternant 
parfois k quelques bancs de schistes talqueux et quartzeux, mais sans 
bancs calcaires. Vers le pied ouest du pic, le gneiss est remplac^ par de 
Teuphotide granitoide massive, qui semble y former une grosse lentille 
se fondant de tons cdt^s dans le gneiss m6me. Du reste les roches du 
Cervin montrent partout des exemples fort instructifs de passages 
graduels d'une structure k I'autre, r^ultant du metamorphisme plus ou 
moins avanc6. 

Le pic actuel n'est que le reste d'une puissante formation g^ologique 
ancienne, triasique peut-6tre, dont les couches puissantes de plus de 3500 
metres enveloppaient tout autour comme un immense manteau le grand 
massif granitoide et feldspathique du Mont Rose. Aussi son 6tude 
d^taill^e, qui par exception est rendue fort facile par la profondeur des 
vallons d'ou il surgit, donne la clef de la structure g^logique de beaucoup 
d'autres montagnes des environs. On y voit partout le ph^nom^ne assez 
curieux d'une puissante formation talqueuse trfes-cristalline, presque 
granitoide, r^guliferement superpos^e k une formation schisteuse et 
calcarif^re. Cette m§me constitution g^ologique est en partie la cause 
de la forme aigue et de I'isolement du pic qui en font la merveille des 
voyageurs. En eifet, tandis que les roches feuillet^es de la base ^tant 
facilement corrod^es par Taction des m6t6ores et de I'eau ont 6t6 facile- 
ment creus^es en valines larges et profondes, la roche sup^rieure qui 
constitue la pyramide donne lieu par sa duret^ k des fendillements 
formant des parois escarp^es qui conservent au pic ce profil elanc^ et 
caract^ristique alpin. Les glaciers qui entourent son pied de tons les 
c6t^ en emportant d'une mani^re continue les debris tombant de ses 
flancs, contribuent pour leur part k maintenir cet isolement de la mer- 
veilleuse pyramide qui sans eux serait peut-dtre d^jk ensevelie sous ses 
propres mines. 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN, BY 8IGNOR F. GIORDANO. 



14780 SUMMIT 




8005 
7775 








Digitized by VjOOQIC 



References to the Geological Section of the Matterhorn. 

I. Gneiss talqueux quartzif^re. Beaucoup de traces de foudres. 
II. Banc de 3 k 4 metres de schistes serpentineux et talqueux verts. 

III. Gneiss talqueux k ^l^ments plus ou moins schisteux, avec quelque 

lit de quartzite. 
,, Gneiss et micaschistes ferrugineux k 616ments trfes-fins, beaucoup 
de traces de foudre. 

IV. Gneiss alternant avec des schistes talqueux et k des felsites en 

zones blanches et grises. 
V. Petite couche de schistes serpentineux, vert sombre. 
VI. Gneiss et micaschiste avec zones quartzif^res rubanees. 
VII. Gneiss talqueux k 616ments schisteux. 
VIII. Id. id. verdfttre, porphyroide k 616ments moyens. 

IX. Gneiss talqueux granitoide k gros 616ments et avec des cristaux 

de feldspath. 
X. Schistes grisAtres. 
XI. Micaschistes ferrugineux. 
XII. Gneiss talqueux vert sombre. 

XIII. Gneiss et schistes quartzeux, couleur vert clair. 

XIV. Euphotide massive (feldspath et diallage) k 616ments cristallins 

bien d^velopp^s, travers6e par des veines d'eurite blanchdtre. 
Cette roche forme un banc ou plutdt une lentille de plus de 
500 metres de puissance intercalee au gneiss talqueux.^ 
XV. Gneiss talqueux alternant avec des schistes talqueux et micac^s. 
XVI. Schistes compactes couleur vert clair. 

XVII. Calcaire cristallin micac6 (calcschiste) avec veines et rognons de 
quartz. II alteme avec des schistes verts chloriteux et 
serpentineux. 
XVIII. Schistes verts chloriteux, serpentineux et talqueux, avec des 
masses st^atiteuses. 
XIX. Calcschistes (comme ci-dessus) formant un banc de plus de 100 
metres. 2 

XX. Schistes verts chloriteux. 
XXI. Calcschistes (comme ci-dessus). 

XXII. II suit ci dessous une s6rie fort puissante de schistes verts serpen- 
tineux, chloriteux, talqueux et st6atiteux alternant encore 
avec des calcschistes. En plusieurs localit^s les schistes 
deviennent trfes-amphibologiques k petits cristaux noirs. 
Cette puissante formation calcar^-serpentineuse repose in- 
ferieurement sur des micaschistes et des gneiss anciens. 

1 Cette roche granitoide parait surtout 4 la base ouest du pic sous le col du Lion tandis 
qu'elle ne parait pas du tout sur le flanc est oi!l elle parait passer au gneiss talqueux. 

2 En plusieurs localit^s des environs, cette zone calcariftre pr6sente des bancs et des 
lentilles de dolomie, de cargueule de gypse et de quartzites. 

P 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



The Death of Signor F. Giordano. 

Signer Giordano, who supplied the above valuable note upon the 
Geology of the Matterhom, and the accompanying section, lost his life 
in 1892, under very shocking circumstances. He went to Vallombrosa 
to pass a few days, and on the evening of the 14th of July left his hotel 
for a walk. As he did not return, several persons took lanterns to 
search the woods, and at last, attracted by moans, discovered the un- 
fortunate engineer in a horrible state. He had tumbled over a cliff into 
a pool, and, having fractured his skull and a leg, was quite unable to 
move. Myriads of leeches from a neighbouring marsh were devouring 
the defenceless man alive. His hands, face, and body were covered with 
these bloodsuckers. He was carried back to the hotel in a dying con- 
dition, and expired in the course of the following day. Signor Giordano 
was very short-sighted, and this may possibly have caused the accident 




Digitized by VjOOQIC 



I. — Conversion of Metres into English Feet. 211 



MfeTRES. 


Feet. 


MfeTRES. 


Feet. 


MfeTRES. 


Feet. 


1 


= 3-28 


50 = 


164-04 


100 


= 32809 


2 


6-56 


51 


167-33 


200 


656-18 


3 


9-84 


52 


170-61 


300 


984-27 


4 


13-12 


53 


173-89 


400 


1312-36 


5 


16-40 


54 


177-17 


500 


1640-45 


6 


19-69 


55 


180-45 


600 


1968-54 


7 


22-97 


66 


183-73 


700 


2296-63 


8 


26-25 


57 


187-01 


800 


2624-72 


9 


29-53 


58 


190-29 


900 


2952-81 


10 


32-81 


69 


193-57 


1000 


3280-90 


11 


36-09 


60 


196-85 


1100 


3608-99 


12 


39-37 


61 


200-13 


1200 


3937-08 


13 


42-65 


62 


203-42 


1300 


4265-17 


14 


45-93 


63 


206-70 


1400 


4593-26 


15 


49-21 


64 


209-98 


1500 


4921-35 


16 


62-49 


65 


213-26 


1600 


5249-44 


17 


55-78 


66 


216-54 


1700 


6577-53 


18 


59-06 


67 


219-82 


1800 


5905-62 


19 


62-34 


68 
69 


223-10 
226-38 


1900 


6233-71 


20 


65-62 


70 
71 
72 
73 

74 
76 
76 

77 
78 
79 


229-66 
232-94 
236-22 
239-51 
242-79 
246-07 
249-35 
252-63 
255-91 
259-19 


2000 


6561-80 


21 


68-90 


2100 


6889-89 


22 


72-18 


2200 


7217-98 


23 


75-46 


2300 


7546-07 


24 


78-74 


2400 


7874-16 


25 


82-02 


2500 


8202-25 


26 


85-30 


2600 


8530-34 


27 


88-58 


2700 


8858-43 


28 


91-87 


2800 


9186-52 


29 


95-15 


2900 


9514-61 


30 


98-43 


80 


262-47 


3000 


9842-70 


31 


101-71 


81 


265-75 


3100 


10,170-79 


32 


104-99 


82 


269-03 


3200 


10,498-88 


33 


108-27 


83 


272-31 


3300 


10,826-97 


34 


111-55 


84 


275-60 


3400 


11,155-06 


35 


114-83 


85 


278-88 


3500 


11,483-15 


36 


118-11 


86 


282-16 


3600 


11,811-24 


37 


121-39 


87 


285-44 


3700 


12,139-33 


38 


124-67 


88 


288-72 


3800 


12,467-42 


39 


127-96 


89 


292-00 


3900 


12,795-51 


40 


131-24 


90 


295-28 


4000 


13,123-60 


41 


134-52 


91 


298-56 


4100 


13,451-69 


42 


137-80 


92 


301-84 


4200 


13,779-78 


43 


141-08 


93 


305-12 


4300 


14,107-87 


44 


144-36 


94 


308-40 


4400 


14,435-96 


45 


147-64 


95 


311-69 


4500 


14,764-05 


46 


150-92 


96 


314-97 


4600 


15,092-14 


47 


154-20 


97 


318-25 


4700 


15,420-23 


48 


157-48 


98 


321-53 


4800 


15,748-32 


49 


160-76 


99 


324-81 


4900 


16,076-41 



One Mfetre = 3-2808992 English Feet (Annvaire des Longitvdes, Paris). 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



212 J. — Con\t:rsion of English Feet into Metres. 



Feet. 


METRES. 


Feet. 


MlTTRES. 


Feet. 


METRES. 


1 


= 0-30 


3300 = 


= 1005-82 


8300 = 


= 2529-79 


2 


0-61 


3400 


1036-30 


8400 


2560-27 


3 


0-91 


3500 


1066-78 


8500 


2590-75 


4 


1-22 


3600 


1097-26 


8600 


2621-23 


5 


1-52 


3700 


1127-74 


8700 


2651-71 


6 


1-82 


3800 


1158-22 


8800 


2682-19 


7 


213 


3900 


1188-70 


8900 


2712-67 


8 
9 


2-43 
2-74 


4000 


1219-18 


9000 


2743-15 


4100 


1249-66 


9100 


2773-63 


10 


3-04 


4200 


1280-14 


9200 


2804-11 


20 


609 


4300 


1310-62 


9300 


2834-59 


30 


914 


4400 


1341-10 


9400 


286507 


40 


1219 


4500 


1371-58 


9500 


2895-55 


50 


15-24 


4600 


1402-05 


9600 


292603 


60 


18-29 


4700 


1432-53 


9700 


2956-51 


70 


21-34 


4800 


146301 


9800 


2986-99 


80 


24-38 


4900 


1493-49 


9900 


3017-47 


90 


27-43 


5000 


1523-97 


10,000 


3047-94 


100 


30-48 


5100 


1554-45 


10,100 


3078-42 


200 


60-96 


5200 


1584-93 


10,200 


3108-90 


300 


91-44 


5300 


1615-41 


10,300 


3139-38 


400 


121-91 


5400 


1645-89 


10,400 


3169-86 


500 


152-40 


5500 


1676-37 


10,500 


3200-34 


600 


182-88 


5600 


1706-85 


10,600 


3230-82 


700 


213-36 


5700 


1737-33 


10,700 


3261-30 


800 


243-84 


5800 


1767-81 


10,800 


3291-78 


900 


274-31 


5900 


1798-29 


10,900 


3322-26 


1000 


304-79 


6000 


1828-77 


11,000 


3352-74 


1100 


335-27 


6100 


1859-25 


11,100 


3383-22 


1200 


365-76 


6200 


1889-73 


11,200 


3413-70 


1300 


396-23 


6300 


1920-21 


11,300 


3444-18 


1400 


426-71 


6400 


1950-68 


11,400 


3474-66 


1500 


457-19 


6500 


1981-16 


11,500 


3505-14 


1600 


487-67 


6600 


2011-64 


11,600 


3535-62 


1700 


518-15 


6700 


2042-12 


11,700 


3566-10 


1800 


548-63 


6800 


2072-60 


11,800 


3596-57 


1900 


579-11 


6900 


2103-08 


11,900 


3627-05 


2000 


609-59 


7000 


2133-56 


12,000 


3657-53 


2100 


64007 


7100 


2164-04 


12,100 


3688-01 


2200 


670-55 


7200 


2194-52 


12,200 


3718-49 


2300 


701-03 


7300 


2225-00 


12,300 


3748-97 


2400 


731-51 


7400 


2255-48 


12,400 


3779-45 


2500 


761-99 


7500 


2285-96 


12,500 


3809-93 


2600 


792-47 


7600 


2316-44 


12,600 


3840-41 


2700 


822-94 


7700 


2346-92 


12,700 


3870-89 


2800 


853-42 


7800 


2377-40 


12,800 


3901-37 


2900 


883-90 


7900 


2407-88 


12,900 


3931-85 


3000 


914-38 


8000 


2438-36 


13,000 


3962-33 


3100 


944-86 


8100 


2468-84 


14,000 


4267-12 


3200 


975-34 


8200 


2499-31 


15,000 


4571-92 



One English Foot = 3-0479449 d€cimfetres {Annuaire dea IxmgitudeSf Paris). 



Digitized by VjOOQIC 



aiS- POLLUX SCHWARZTHOR EASTERN END OF 

668 13.432 12,274 THE BREITHORN 




CORNER GLACIER 



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